My girlfriend has a 2000 Toyota Celica, and one of her tail light covers broke a while back. I'm pretty sure I can replace it myself, but with the age of the part, is there any source for a used replacement? At the moment, I can't remember which one it is, but I could replace them both if I could find a matched pair.
View 4 RepliesI'm having a devil of a time trying to reinstall the top timing cover. i remember it being tough to get off. I jack the engine up as high as i feel comfortable and it does not seem to fit. is there a trick to it, or do you just have to bend the plastic and hope you don't break something?
supplemental question:
how high can you jack up the motor before you break the drivetrain?
Problem with my '86 Celica's charging system. Car has about 135,000 miles and original alternator and belt. It is usually driven once or twice a week, but after sitting about 10 days, the tail light, brake, and battery warning lights came on when I started it. The lights went out after a minute. This same sequence of events happened the next three times I started the car that day. The fourth time, the lights went out but came back on as I drove. I found that revving the engine to between two and three thousand RPM made the light go off, but it sometimes came back on. And the engine revving isn't a sure thing now. Hit and miss. My wife and I have been trying to diagnose the problem.
When the warning lights are on, the dash voltmeter is near the bottom of the operating range. After revving and the lights going off, the voltmeter jumps up near the top of the normal operating range indicating the battery is charging.
The belt is checkered on the inside but not frayed. It deflected about 7/16ths inch midway between two pulleys about 17" apart. The Haynes manual said 1/2 inch was maximum deflection for that span. No unusual noises from the alternator.
We ran a checklist from my Haynes manual but I think it has an error in it. Here are the two steps that don't make sense. I marked the parts that seem to contradict with asterisks.
h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary. Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal.
i) With the key off, insert a test light between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable clamp.
1) If the test light does not come on, reattach the clamp and proceed to the next step.
2) If the test light comes on, there is a short in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked.
3) Disconnect the alternator wiring harness.
(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is bad.
(b) If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out (this will tell you which component is shorted)."
Well, we decided that the last instruction in Step h should be to reconnect the POSITIVE cable (but could be wrong). I did this and we did Step i as written. The light came ON (Step 2). Disconnect the alternator wires at two points. Light stayed ON. Pulled every fuse under the hood and on the kick panel by the clutch. Light stayed ON.
The battery is near the end of its warranty period--about two-year old DieHard. Voltage at the terminals is about 12.4V with key out, about the same with ignition on but not running, the same with engine running and the dash lights showing, and about 14.5V after I get the dash lights to go off and the battery starts charging.
So, we're at a standstill. Tests say the tension on the belt is okay. The test light testing indicates the alternator is okay and the test light stayed on as fuses were pulled. The key was out of the ignition during the testing, but there are circuits that work without the key (brakes, hazard, headlights, etc.). Is the belt maybe slipping even though it is within specs on tension? What about the contradiction in the Haynes testing?
The plastic cover on the left front interior light came off; it is mostly intact but the small plastic tab in the inside (where the lightbulb is) is broken. It seems to be attached to the whole mechanism.
View 3 RepliesOwn a 2000 Camry XLE 6-cyl. Both valve cover gaskets are leaking. Rear one leaks onto the manifold and causes stench. Have been quoted $350. to replace because the job is complicated. Have any of you done this on your own, and if so, would you recommend it or go to a qualified mechanic?
View 9 RepliesTruck was running a little rough before valve cover gasket replacement. Replaced gaskets and it ran rougher than before. Found a burned out spark plug coil and replaced coils, plugs, and wire. Runs smoothly now, but there's very, very low power, probably tops out at 35 mph. What gives?
View 19 RepliesI have a problem that has being going on with my 2000 toyota celica gt has been sputtering/jerking when going at a constant speed of about 60 mph. The problem is interment. I have changed everything from cam sensor when it came up on the scanner. Also changed the fuel filter and fuel pump. I changed the spark plugs. No luck the problem went away for about 2 weeks when I changed the fuel pump and filter but it came back. I got it scanned and the only code that comes up is P0420 which is a catalytic converter code. I have no clue where to go from here.
View 9 RepliesI was driving my 2000 celica gt and it started making an awful sound. It was clunking and started slipping. The rpm's held constant but the car was going slower. I had it towed home. I have driven it a few times and the noise is still present once the car was going down the road in third gear and the front wheels locked up and the car screeched to a halt. it can be put into gear and driven at slow speeds. I assume that the transmission has failed. If it is in fact the transmission there is a gt-s with a 6 speed at the local junk yard. From what i read the swap is direct bolt in. Is that true and does the shifter need to be changed?
View 1 RepliesWhere the CCV and its VSV are located on my 2000 toyota Celica? Is the CCV also called the Evap vent valve?
View 3 RepliesMy turning light needs a bulb replacement (I believe, since when I click to turn right it makes quicker clicking sounds). Does this mean bulb is out or wiring is out?
As for the side light (also on the right) has fallen off and can no longer be screwed back in place as that part has broken off so I will be buying the replacement part/lamp. However, when it fell, the wiring was disconnected so i have lost the bulb and any connection to it. I think I still have the rubber wiring harness, just missing the wiring & bulb.
On my 2000 toyota celica I have no dash lights Including no fuel gauge level indicators. I can not find any bad fuses unless there is another hidden fuse box somewhere...
View 4 RepliesToyota celica 2000 GT automatic, has a problem on cold start, especially when the temperature is below 32 degree Fahrenheit. The engine starts and runs roughly, but most electrical devices do not work, the dashboard and car windows are power off and I can't change the gear so it can not move. Only after warming up for about 10 minutes then the dashboard will work, then everything is fine till the next morning. I sent it to a small garage but they found nothing.
View 3 RepliesI have had this problem since two weeks now. Basically I have bad tail light indicator on the dash and bad brakes indicator on the dash some times and some times not. Both come on at the same and turn off at the same time. But when the dash is lit, the car wont crank. Couple of tries later (15-20mins) later the warnings are gone and car starts.
This happens every time only in two gear positions i.e Par k and Neutral. After the said time gap, the two warnings start blinking. That's when the engine will crank. And after couple of tries, the engine comes to life. I have checked all the fuses, checked the battery, alternator, tail lights for lose wires But couldn't find anything solid.
The tail light indicator on my BMW will not turn off. I replaced all the bulbs and it did not go out. I also did an experiment and swapped all the driver side rear lights with the passenger side lights. And the indicator light did not turn off. Is there a fuse I can pull? Is there a ground short?
View 2 RepliesHow do you remove a right rear 2001 Toyota echo tail light assembly?
View 1 RepliesHad to stop working on my car's cosmetics because the tail lights stopped working a few weeks ago. Radio, headlights, and brake lights all work.
10A fuse blows when I turn the headlights on. Tail relay is good. Bulbs and bulb sockets look good. Ground is good. I purchased an ECT2000 by Power Probe to diagnose the issue, but it's running me all over the car.
Mechanic couldn't find the issue. What should I try next?
I was loosening the bolt that holds down the number one spark plug wire when it just spun off leaving less than half the bolt in the valve cover. I tried using the grabbit extractor but that did not work.
View 8 RepliesMy 96 toyota celica check engine light is on and I get the code P0340. Also I can't seem to get my reverse light to work what could be the problem.
View 7 RepliesI opened the hood today to install the Carbon Fiber logo and noticed that the plastic cover sitting on top of the radiator was loose. That's when I noticed that the 2 clips holding the plastic cover were broken.
View 3 RepliesLast night I broke the tail light at the grocery store... I came out and there was a line of carts behind my car that a parking lot attendant was collecting. I added my cart to the end and went to shove them all out of the way, and he yells to me, "I got it! I got it!" so I leave them, get into my car, see him go past with a bunch of carts & back up. What this will run? Can I just replace the lens or do I have to replace the whole assembly? And is this something I can easily enough swap out myself?
View 2 RepliesWhen I replaced the cabin air filter recently, I noticed the little latch loop on the left hand side bottom was broken. I just put it together and it does not rattle.
View 2 Replies