Toyota - Celica :: 1998 GT Convertible Suddenly Lost Fifth Gear
Jul 20, 2016
I have a 98 Celica GT convertible that had suddenly lost fifth gear, and what I mean by loosing fifth gear is not that it pops out of fifth or that it will not go into fifth, the gear shift lever goes into the fifth gear position just fine and stays in that position, yet the car responds as if it is in neutral. This is what happened while driving home recently. The first time this happened was within a week or so of having my clutch replaced, so I took it back to the mechanic that replaced my clutch.
Upon investigation he found that the nut that holds fifth gear in was loose. He tightened this nut and it fixed the problem for awhile. This was now over two years ago, and to make a long story short, I eventually ended up having to replace that transmission with another used transmission from a salvage yard. The current transmission has been in the vehicle just over a year and a half with no problems until now. I am getting this same problem again, with no fifth gear.
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I got a 95 convertible that the passenger quarter window has decided to come off the tracks! got it pullled out and 2 of the 3 plastic roller guides have decided to split in 2! can you believe that? after 16 years they broke (toyota quality just isn't the same!) where i can find the new roller guides?
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I was driving home from campus yesterday, and as I approached about 50mph, the Celica suddenly revved into higher RPMs, all the while slowing down. I pushed the gas pedal, which only worsened the problem. I was able to limp the car home. About an hour later, I tested the car again, and the problem remains: Accelerate to about 35-50, then get high RPMs while the car slows down and jumps forward.
I suspect a transmission problem, accentuated by a loose wheel bearing that I haven't been able to afford to get fixed yet. My Celica is an automatic, with about 213000 miles on it.
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Up until yesterday, my 1995 Convertible GT ran perfect. The power steering pump has a leak and the foamed fluid overflowed. I replaced the fluid and cleaned out the engine bay where the spill was. I used a little soap, and rinsed it with some water.
Since then, the battery drains in about 60 seconds. I can shut off, and immediately start the car back up. If the car sits for more than a minute, I just get clicking. Starter doesn't even turn over. I can jump the car to get her running.
I've taken all the wire harnesses and electrical connections apart on that side of the engine bay and cleaned them with electrical contact/wire cleaner. I removed the fender, the lights, the bumper, etc to clean. The battery, alternator, and charging security pass a check at AutoZone. I can run and drive the car without throwing of codes, etc. As soon as I turn off the engine for longer than a minute, it doesn't start.
Not sure what else I can do. I was in the middle of a sale, and now thats gone pending me solving this annoying and time-consuming issue. If I don't figure this out in a few days, I'm calling a yard. I really don't have time to deal with a car I'm trying to get rid of.
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I have a 1998 Sienna (at 300k miles I want to drive until it’s dead) and the dashboard has lost illumination in several bulbs. The fuses are good and the bulbs seem fine, but there is a bad connection somewhere. I would like to start cleaning contacts in some of the junctions before tearing the dash apart again.
Which brings me to the big question: where should I look for connections that I can clean so I am sure the electrical system is providing a proper current to the dash bulbs? Besides the idiot lights (working), all I have at the moment is a single bulb that illuminates half the speedometer, while the tach and rest of the dash and air conditioning controls are dark.
As I’ve had other wiring harness connections become corroded and need cleaning over time, need to determine where to begin opening connections to clean before tearing the dash apart.
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Any good video/instructions/tips on replacing the front and rear struts on a 1998 Toyota Celica?
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I have a 92 Toyota Celica GT five speed that won't going to gear occasionally. I can drive several months at a time without having a problem and then all of a sudden when I start the car to put it in gear and I have to literally force it into gear or turn off the car and put it into gear. I can go 5,6,7 months at a time without having a problem. Then all of a sudden it won't work. I would say within the last year I have had the problem I'm maybe three times. The last being yesterday since about September. I have had the car for 10 years and have replaced the clutch maybe three years ago. I have been driven a manual shift car since I was 16. Last year around March I replaced the slave cylinder and the problem seem to go away. Do I really need another clutch?
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My 1980 Toyota Celica (5 speed, R20) is backfiring a little when idling and also more if I am trying to slow down by using 3rd or 2nd gear - engine braking. So far I changed dist. cap & rotor, wires, spark plugs, muffler, all fluids... and it's still happening.
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got a sweet deal on it but only 1 problem with the car. when i shift into 2nd gear there is a grinding noise, however it doesnt grind if i drive super slow... it doesnt really matter if i upshift or downshift into 2nd it will make the noise either way... also the grinding noise is only there WHILE shifting the lever into 2nd gear so its only there for a second, once the lever is shifted into 2nd gear there is no grinding noise at all...not sure if this is related but the clutch pedal also feels very lose just when its about to hits the floor...
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The switch on my Solara Convertible is freezing up. How do I change it?
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I own a 2004 Toyota Celica GTS 4-speed automatic, 24,600 original miles. The car is maybe 11 / 12 years old now. I've noticed that in extremely cold Wisconsin weather it takes a while for my car to shift into fourth gear. It kind of hangs onto third and then eventually shifts into fourth at about 40 - 45 miles per hour. Not sure if that's anything to be alarmed about or not. Drives fine and shifts smooth in warmer weather. I am the second owner. I am going to assume the original owner never changed the transmission fluid, or for that matter, never had a reason to. I purchased the car several years ago. So... is slow shifting enough to change the fluid? Or age of the fluid anything to worry about?
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Toyota celica 2000 GT automatic, has a problem on cold start, especially when the temperature is below 32 degree Fahrenheit. The engine starts and runs roughly, but most electrical devices do not work, the dashboard and car windows are power off and I can't change the gear so it can not move. Only after warming up for about 10 minutes then the dashboard will work, then everything is fine till the next morning. I sent it to a small garage but they found nothing.
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I took my 2001 Toyota Celica GT in to have the engine re-built due to a connecting rod that was ready to blow. I have taken it back to them four times. First time not dropping into 4th gear car is automatic stays stuck at 3RPMs. Said it was a transmission problem. I said didn't have one when I came in and not having one on my way out.
Nothing wrong with transmission. Said they fixed whatever they came up with and still car not dropping into 4th gear and my hood shakes so bad I have to put it in neutral to stop the shaking/vibrating at every stop sign and red light. Said they changed out the non-detergent oil for thirty weight and the shaking stopped for a minute.
I told them the third time I brought it back that the hood was still shaking, still not dropping into 4th gear. I checked my oil and fluids a day later and found no oil in my car and the tip of my dip stick was black. No coolant in the car either. I told them that this car needs special spark plugs or it will run like it needs a tuneup with no power. I was pissed.
They said that I had two broken motor mounts and the engine wasn't sitting correctly and that is what was causing the the shake and the 4th gear from dropping down. I was astounded..... They replaced the motor mounts and the spark plugs. When I drove it home it drove great. I even took it out to the river to make sure it was running great because I am selling this car and they knew I was selling it.
My buyer took it to Toyota of Orange and had a test done on the car to the tune of $120.00. It came back with upper and lower power steering hoses leaking and that I needed a new power steering pump. And wait for it.... a new head gasket!!!!
Which tells me they never rebuilt my engine, they just fixed the connecting rod. I took the report into them from Toyota and told them that I want everything fixed on this report and I want my car back in three days or I will take you to court.
I talked to the owner today to ask him when my car would be ready and he said by tonight that he had replaced the head gasket. Which still doesn't tell me if they rebuilt the whole engine. I told him I wanted the power steering pump and hoses fixed as well or I would report them to the Bureau of Automotive Repair. With the engine vibrating and jumping all over the place couldn't that have caused the power steering pump and hoses to be damaged? And am I within my rights to make them fix these at no charge as well?
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My 2007 Toyota Solara convertible has been perfect...and now suddenly the convertible back window is leaking. My husband advised me not to drive it today due to the expected rain. OOPS. I went out, and when I made a stop, I looked at the back window and realized the bottom window (glass/plastic?) had completely separated from the fabric top. The top itself is in perfect condition.
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Figuring out automatic shifter problem, the car only has 56k miles & it has problem (since 30k miles) shifting out of Park or stuck in Park, often I had to use the mechanical override to release it so I can put it in Neutral to start the engine. When placed in Drive, it kind of "floats," does not have the normal confident in-the-gear feel & sometimes it slips out of Drive to Neutral with the slightest bump of the gear shifter when driving or when stopped. When I shift, it does not have a free easy movement, it feels like the cable is restricted by corrosion or dirt, but everything looked good & seem shielded. Took it to a shop & they suggested that I just drive it... I've since put over 20k miles & its getting worse at finding Neutral to start the car with.
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Heading to work this morning, taking the back roads as usual. Came to the nice RH sweeping curve that ends in an uphill straight (where I typically like to play a bit). Caught 3rd, nailed it coming out of the curve, and instead of "grip and go" the .:R completely loses power. Limped to side of road...tried to restart. Acts exactly like out of gas, but tank is almost full. Bummer...and I'm very aggravated at this point.
Called roadside assistance and they sent someone who had it on a rollback in under 30 minutes. Caught a ride with the truck to my job...call the dealership and asked for a ride and loaner. That all worked out, so now I'm calmed down and feel satisfied with the courtesy and service I've received thus far.
BTW, I did have the fuel tank valve recall thing performed a month or more ago. Not going to speculate, though, as to whether this had anything to do with anything. Also, I have never had any problem, hiccups, or anything negative happen to the car (14K on odo) prior to this.
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I finally drove the Celica for the first time to work after rebuilding the front end. As I was exiting off the freeway the car suddenly stalled. I coasted into the lot and tried to restart. The car struggled to restart and when it finally restarted it ran extremely rough with a lot of metal on metal clatter. I tried to drive it to the other end of the parking lot and the clatter got worse and worse. Sounds like the contents of a tool box in a paint shaker.
It's always run great prior to this. The only thing that seems to have changed is the work I did to the front end and the replacement of some seals on the timing chain cover. The car still has oil but I can see oil splatter on the bottom of the distrubutor. I'm going to have it towed home in the morning.
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I was listening to my MP3 CD as usual then suddenly I lost all audio and all I can hear is a pulsating screech "screech... screech... screech... screech..." I lost volume control. Even if I turned off audio it still screeches. Do I have a blown out amp/speaker?
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While I was driving my car suddenly was losing power.I tried to hit the "gas" pedal harder and it didn't react.It stayed on the same gear and after 2-3 seconds it was ok. After 10 minutes it happened again but this time I couldn't do anything. I thought it was the transmission problem so I went into manual mode to shift it down. It didn't work at all - I was shifting down but didn't have power so I had to stop. I stopped put in P turn engine on and everything came back to normal.It's worth mentioning that one time time I had to pull over and I didn't turn the car off. After couple minutes the car started to vibrate and died. I turned on and everything was ok. Fuel filter or is it something else?
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Up until this morning I thought I had almost a perfect car with a potential of lasting for 10 years but this morning, while I was driving on a local road with 35-40mph, so suddenly my car stopped moving and I couldn't even pull over as it completely stopped with no error or any warning/alerts! So, I turned it off and on again, it started working but I was still nervous if it would happen to me again while driving on a freeway but it didn't and I have made to work safely.
Now a question is should I bring it to the dealer today and have them run their diagnostics on their computer to see if anything is wrong with the car engine/ battery/ or anything else or should I just reboot it like we do for computers and go on everytime it happens? It's just little scary to think of its happening during a busy highway driving! I have driven it since July and has about 14K and I have had a good MPG of anywhere between 50 to 60.
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Yes my door switch is bad, but it hasn't caused any real issues. It works intermittently. I've never really had any issues with the car. I was driving home today about 60 miles, and out of nowhere I lost all power, when I pushed the pedal it would hold rpm and then just slowly fall. At highway speed with the clutch in I could feather it to maintain rpm, but it would misfire really bad. So I pulled off to the shoulder, it was still running. I popped the hood and looked around, nothing seemed out of place. I revved it an it would stumble. I messed with it for a about a minute or so, and hopped back in to go and if I got the rpms up it would do ok. I got it back up to speed and it was fine for about 2 miles. Then the same thing happened. By this time I was close enough to an offramp to get off the highway. I managed to get it off the offramp, and on to the shoulder. It then stumbled and died.
My first thought was alternator, I've been having some issues with my battery, but I thought that was just due to the cold temps. If I jumped it, it would drive and start fine. I only ever had issues if I didn't drive it for a few days, or it got below 10 degrees. It would turn over fine but it would barely catch and then just die. The battery was dead. We jumped it, and still the same issue. It would turn over just fine when attached to the other car. So we sat there for a little while, waiting for a tow truck. I called a few others and then thought about trying something else.
I got a breaker bar out of the trunk, got down on the ground and hit the fuel tank a couple times. Hopped back in the car, and it fired right up first try. Then I drove it home without any issues. It has started a few more times now without a hiccup. So, everything else aside, I have a shorting fuel pump I think. The car has 151k on it, so I should probably expect to replace the pump anyway.
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