Toyota - Celica :: 1996 Engine Would Turn Over And Not Fire / Bogging
Jun 30, 2012
I have a 1996 Toyota Celica automatic transmission with just under 160k miles. It's always been a great car, very reliable and very few problems. A few days ago, it started having trouble starting (engine would turn over and not fire, usually starts after four or so tries) and then will bog down considerably while taking off from a stop until it shifts into second gear. No problem idling, not stalling.
Mechanic changed fuel filter, checked fuel pressure, plugs, cam and ignition timing, catalytic converter - all okay. Thinks it might be the distributor but would take a few hundred dollars worth of work to diagnose, plus whatever expense if it is the distributor, and obviously more if it is not. Might it be the distributor?
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My 96 toyota celica check engine light is on and I get the code P0340. Also I can't seem to get my reverse light to work what could be the problem.
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The engine turns and air blows out of the throttle body. My fuel pump and TPS is good. What else could it be?
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My 1996 Chevrolet cavalier will not start. It sat for two months while I looked for a neutral safety switch. New switch is in and brand new battery, Car does turn over. It gets close but no luck. I put new gas in. I really need to get this running before the snow flies.
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I recently purchased a 1996 Celica. The car looks amazing and drives well. On top of it's reliability, the vehicle is an absolute blast to drive!!!!! However, it seems to be burning oil. I was told to switch from 5w-30 oil to 10w. A thicker weight would work.
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What might be going wrong with my 2003 Celica GT? The problem is that it infrequently is taking longer to start. The starter turns over the engine, but it does not fire. It continues for a considerably longer time to crank the engine, then finally it fires and starts. Could it be that the fuel pump is beginning to fail?
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recently purchased a toyota celica gt (96), a couple days ago i went to unlock the doors with the fob, and nothing happened. I then unlocked the doors with the key and the alarm went off! i managed to drive my car home, but the alarm was still going. I was told to disconnect the positive connection on the battery to stop the alarm going off through the night. the next day i replaced the battery in the fob, but every time i reconnect the positive the alarm goes off!
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I recently was given a 96 Toyota Celica 1.8L Auto 7AFE and I have been trying to troubleshoot some problems.
It started a year ago when my brother drove it to work and then after work it would not start back up. It sat for a while and now its mine. Problem is I was not getting any spark at all a while back when we tested it. I thought maybe the distributor. The other day it happened to just randomly start after a year of not starting. It made a small pop in the cylinder then boom ran just great until it warmed up and proceeded to shut down, would not restart. Checked the spark and it was very weak (yellow) and just seemed to be a slow spark, not firing as fast as I would think. Today I put a new distributor with a new cap and rotor in and boom she fires up immediately. Let it warm up fully shut it down, restarts fine, shut it down again and now it will not restart. Last time I tested fuel was fine, seems as if I am getting an intermittent spark and usually starts when it cools off.
Not sure what to do now, where to look. The wires seem ok with no corrosion but I have only worked on the 2.2L and I am lost!
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I own a 1996 Toyota Celica. When the car is cold it starts and run for about 5 minutes then dies. When I try to start the car, with the key in the 'on' position, I have no check engine light. If I crank the engine and release the key to the 'run' position, the 'check engine' light turns on. When the car is cold or I leave it to rest for a couple hours and I turn the key on the 'check engine' light turns on. it is after the car stalls out i have this problem. At this point if I spray some starter fluid into the intake the car attempts to start. I thought that it was the pump so I installed a new one. Fuel pressure is good. It seems to me that the injectors are not working.
Is it the computer? Given that fuel is getting to the injectors but the injectors are not firing, Given that I have ignition since when I spray starter fluid into the intake the car fires up and runs until it runs out of starter fluid. Where do I start? I have not used a noid light as yet to check the injector harness and as you all know the harness is a little difficult to get at because of its location under the intake.
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i have a 96 toyota celica sx which makes a horrible noise when i start it, its almost like a high pitch rattling noise, usually goes away when it warms up but sometimes still making it accelerating, think the noise is coming from area which is in the photo, what it is?
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My 1987 Toyota Celica ST will not seem to turn over. When it has the push button addition that takes the power from the battery straight to the seloniod it works. But when i set the starter back up to the ignition switch and set it up factory style it will not spin over. it sends the 12 volts needed to start it but yet will not turn it over.
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83' Toyota Celica GT with an automatic transmission. The problem that we are having is that we can't get it to turn over. All it wants to do is click at us. As far as we both can tell all cables and wiring harnesses are plugged in and there aren't any loose wires. We've had the alternator and starter checked and they both passed. Also there is a new battery with new terminals installed so that's not going to be the problem. In all of the reading that I've done I keep hearing about a neutral start switch. What is it? And where is it located? I believe I've found a spot where it should be but there isn't anything there. And we've put all of the parts in the car back where they go.
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I have a 1990 toyota celica. The parking attendant somehow locked the steering wheel and the key will no longer turn in the lock. I tried everything i could think of: turning the wheel whilst turning the key, putting car in all positions other than park and then turning the wheel and key, changing the key, etc....The steering wheel remains locked and will not unlock.
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I'm trying to turn the crankshaft by hand to verify my timing belt alignment, but meeting some resistance. is this because I have the spark plugs in? do i have to take them out to turn the crank? also, that little groove in the belt guide doesn't seem to line up with anything or get held by the rib on the crankshaft. does that matter, or have i got it installed wrong?
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I am trying to start up my '57 Plymouth belvedere after 5 years of sitting up. Engine turns over but not getting fire to turn on. has points...
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I have a 1996 Toyota Corolla (5-speed, manual transmission) that has never had any problems until the past month or so. About 80% of the time now, the car does not turn over at all upon turning the key first thing in the morning. The dash light indicators (seat belt, brake, etc) come on, but that's ALL. No sounds come from the engine. I turn the key all the way back to the starting position and immediately try again, and the engine starts right up on the second try, almost every time (a couple times it has taken a third try). It will start the first time the rest of the day.
Three things to note that may or may not be related:
1. About 6 months ago, a large tree branch fell on the hood, causing some damage to both front fenders and some dings in the hood.
2. It seems to mainly occur on mornings following a rainstorm, but I can't be sure that is always the case.
3. My key is the original, and occasionally will not unlock the doors (manual locks) on the first try, but when this happens, the key will not turn at all until I mess with it for a bit.
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I need to know the Fire order for the 2011 toyota camry se 2.5 L engine. so I can find which oxygen sensor I need to change. I m getting a P0137 code and it said is the bank 1 sensor 2. I think that is the one after the catalytic converter but need to find out for sure.
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I have a 96 toyota camry that won't start. when i turn the key, the starter clicks but doesn't turn. I replaced the starter and it works fine (as does the one i took out). the battery was obviously checked and is charged. When I hook up the starter to the leads and its not in the engine it doesn't turn (in other words, its not a locked engine). I replaced one of the fuses in the starting relay and it didn't make a difference. So the problem is between the battery and the starter - the starter isn't getting enough power (if i take it to an autoparts store it works when hooked up to their system but doesn't work (but makes a click) when hooked up to the car.
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Camry 2002 LE (4 cyl Auto), 140K mi
This morning, for the first time I can recall, the car would not start right away. Had been sitting in the garage for 2+ days. Starter would crank just fine, but engine would not fire. No lites were left on overnite. Finally (after about 6+ attempts), engine started -- runs fine now.
Took it to TOY dealer. Their diagnosis: weak battery, alternator low output.Happy, had recently (6 mos) replaced battery after 4 years of use, so got a new battery N/C.TOY ran a charging system check and it shows "Alternator Condition: OK" (midway between shitty and great I recall).
Funny, but my first thought when it would not start was the fuel system (fuel pump) or dirty ignitors. I did ask my regular mechanic for an opinion, and he thinks it might indeed be the fuel pump -- perhaps a clogged filter.
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My Celica is running great, I drove about 30 miles and the car started hesitating to run, I was in heavy traffic, I could hear rattling sounds which appeared as though they were coming from the heater. I stopped at a stop light and I could tell something was burning out. I have lots of power, car is very fast. I went to the next stop light and the car died, it started and I went to the next stop light with plenty of speed and the car died and would not start again. I tried starting the car for 3 hours, no fire from the coil.
I have no spark out of the coil. I am confident the coil is good. I have 2 coils. I went to the salvage lot and purchased an "igniter" (ignition module). I installed it on my Celica, still no fire out of the coil. I have a relay under the glove box that clicks when I crank over the engine. The engine cranks over very well for over 3 hours. I have an after market alarm. Why do I not have spark out of my coil?
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I was driving to work and lost all power (during rush hour) I was able to coast to a exit. Had it towed home, when I turn the key the starter engages but nothing after that, the engine will not turn over. I checked the battery and has a full 12 volts.
I removed the belt and front plugs to see if I could manually turn the engine over but it will not budge. How can I tell if this engine is really locked up or if maybe something else is happening?
3.1 V6 engine .....
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