Toyota - Camrysolara :: 2001 V6 Won't Start When Temp Gets Below Freezing
Dec 20, 2012
I have a 2001 Toyota Solara Convertible, V6, low mileage (92,000), and it will reliably NOT start when the temperature gets below freezing. I have tried a couple of tank fulls of injector cleaner on advice from a friend, but no success. Once the temp falls below freezing overnight, the engine cranks but never catches. Once the temp is above freezing for a few hours, it fires up fine.
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I have a starting problem that is a new one to me. After leaving my car at the airport for two days, when I returned the instrument lights lit up but engine would not turn over. I had it washed too, so I figured the guys left a light on...nope. So I turned the ignition switch off a waited a bit, and the engine made 1/2 a turn. I waited a bit more, then a full turn. Long story short, after enough of these cycles, the engine started and I drove home, no problem. The next morning, I figure the battery is well charged, but I get the same behavior. I've had many experiences with batteries getting progressively weaker as I try to start, but this is the first time I seen a battery (or at least starter) get stronger with start attempts. The battery is well within its warrantee period, but this is Texas, so maybe it's dying already. But I don't want to go drop $120 if there's something else to look at first.
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The engine light on my 2001 Toyota Solara V6 keeps coming on with a code that indicates the Catalytic convertor. The convertor has been replaced 3 times with Mineke non-OEM replacements. The O2 sensor on the muffler has also been replaced.
Question, is there any other repair that can be done to correct this short of Toyota doing a full exhaust replacement?
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When the temperature drops below about 30 degrees f, the windshield washer won't spray. I am using washer fluid so I don't think that it is freeing or that there is any water in the lines. I read somewhere that this might be a defective motor, part number 98510-26100.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Solara with 195k miles, and it frequently gives off a hot oil smell as though oil or trans fluid is on a hot surface, but I cannot find any such thing through a visual inspection. About the time this started, the check engine light came on and stayed on until I replaced the upstream O2 sensor.I had hoped there was some connection, but the sporadic smell has continued, so apparently not. Is there some other explanation, or should I keep looking for a leak somewhere on the outside of the engine?
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my toyota solara v6 SE 2000 has as i think trans problem it won't reverse yesterday as i took it last week to semeone to do engine oil change but instead he drop off the trans oil and add more oil to the engine , and as i don't know i drove it like 1/2 mile with no trans fluid , we figured out that late ! i keept shifting between D & R, 2 & L IT ALWAYS GO FORWARD and no more reverse, what's going on ? before i replace the trans !?
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I had my passenger side window replaced, and the car now has a strong smell of adhesive. I have left the windows open for a week, and the smell just gets stronger.
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I have a 2005 Toyota camry solara with 66,000. Does the timing belt need to be done now due to age of the car?? Or wait alittle longer?
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I have been hearing a knocking sound from rear passenger side wheel. My car is a Toyota Solara 2007 with 87k miles on it, tires were changed last week so the issue is not with the tire. I have attached the video url. Why am I hearing this noise. The noise starts after I drive for some distance (15-20 miles), it does not start as soon as I start driving.
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The right rear wheel on my 2003 Toyota Solara is clicking then freezes up, what it might be?
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The windshield washers of 2014 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v) didn't work all winter if the temp was +20F or less. I'm using -30F or -40F washer fluid. I use the same fluid in my 1995 Previa, and its washers worked all winter. A friend has a 2014 Prius, which didn't have any washer problems.
I tried pouring warm water over the nozzles, but they're location makes it difficult to reach them. Is it the nozzles or is it the rubber hose that feeds them from the reservoir?
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2010 Lexus Rx450h... Rattles in the morning, only when really cold. (Around freezing?). Somewhere in or near the passenger side door, or the air vent by that door. It gets quiet(er) after warmup. Car has been at the dealer for a week... They can't find it; they want to pack in additional insulation. That hardly sounds like a sound solution.
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1996 SILVERADO TRUCK. Starter solenoid doesn't engage when temperature is below freezing....
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So I've had my car for 3 years now. I've done an emissions delete, replaced maf, diverter valve, coolant temp sensor, thermostat, timing belt kit, fuel filter, air filter, starter and battery (for another issue) have a 3" DP and replaced the O2 when I did that, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, tested another n75 in my car.
The problem: the car sometimes has a really hard time starting when it it way below freezing. When it's around cold, at freezing or under the car will start fine. But the problem starts after I back out of my driveway and take the clutch out and put on the gas. When I try to accelerate the car will not accelerate. You can have your foot pressed to the floor and the car will act as it's stalling out and sputter but it actually won't stall because the call will keep driving and then all of a sudden power will come back and it will take off. The situation can be remedied by either pushing the clutch in. The car will idle no mall or if when the car is sputtering I can tap the gas quickly an it will build up speed and the problem will go away.
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Noticed that motor turns over for roughly 3-4 seconds before starting when their GX has sat for awhile in well below freezing temperatures?
It's not slow turning over just takes a little bit longer to actually catch and start.
When the motor is warm or the outside temperature is closer to freezing or above I find that it turns over for no more than about 2 seconds before it starts.
I am thinking the longer turning over when cold is a good thing since the motor is starting to pump oil when it is turning over and allowing the internals to get lubricated before starting and revving.
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I have a 2003 Ford crown Victoria with 137,000km (85,000 miles) which is in good condition overall. It runs well in the city and highway with few problems. I have noticed 1 issue with this car that is consistent. When it is snowing and below freezing it will hesitate occasionally on the highway at speeds over 45 mph. It does not put out any codes. I have sprayed the ignition wires with no change. I have not changed any ignition parts. I did over 500 miles on the highway this weekend in moderate rain with no trouble at all at temperatures around freezing. Today was snowing and below freezing with same problem on highway with occasional hesitation. In the city today with traction problems and tires spinning the ABS and Brake light came on. They were out when I drove it home.
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The switch on my Solara Convertible is freezing up. How do I change it?
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After my Camry XLE V6 warms up to temp it starts to smell like burning rubber - my wife states that it smells like burnt popcorn. I bought the car and I believe it had been driven for quite some time with a bad upstream rear O2 sensor - when I hooked up my scan tool to it, it showed as a bad o2 and miss on #3 and #6 cylinders - I replaced the coil pack feeding #3 and #6 and runs smooth - put a Denso OEM o2 sensor on the rear and still has a miss code but not an emissions code - still smells like burning rubber - I figured the smell was coming from the bad o2 and it running bad AF mixtures.
I figure that if the catalytic converter was plugged or needed replaced that I would get a code for it. I noticed a bit of oil around the valve cover gaskets so I gave them about a 10th of a turn down to see if it would stop the leak and steam cleaned the oil off the motor - still smells of burning rubber - car has never had the timing changed or drive belts for that matter. Drive belts look good, I will have them changed the next time serviced but I'm not sure about the timing belt...car has 218,000 miles but looks great - serviced regularly - bought from my dad and his cars last forever - what this could be?
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I bought a 2015 Prius V Four on June 12, 2015 after my 2014 Prius V Five was Totaled in an accident after being dropped of for Service at another dealership (true story and for a different post). I do love the car but three days later, the Touch Screen intermittently started freezing. This is a problem known to Toyota. I don't know why there is not a recall...the Service Department will not act on it because they cannot duplicate the error. I'll be sure to video this next time it happens. I should have researched better..
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The driver's side rear suspension on my wife's 1998 Toyota Corolla LE completely locks up when the temperature (read-out from dashboard) is below 30-degF... every little crack in the road feels like the earth is splitting in two and jars my spine. The car becomes almost undriveable. However, above 33-34 degrees, it goes back to being perfectly driveable (as driveable as a 240k mile car is expected to be). I've replaced the front and rear linkages and rotated the tires to try and rule out the wheels... no change in behavior. I just need this car to last another year... really not worth replacing the suspension.
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New/used Prius owner here with a million questions. Only 1 today. When I first start the car a light pops up that looks like a blue thermometer. Does this mean coolant is low? Also, is there some grand legend somewhere that I can look at to see what everything means. Just ordered the manual but it'll be a few days until I get it.
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