Toyota - Camrysolara :: 2000 - Trans Not Shifting Into Reverse?
Apr 12, 2013
my toyota solara v6 SE 2000 has as i think trans problem it won't reverse yesterday as i took it last week to semeone to do engine oil change but instead he drop off the trans oil and add more oil to the engine , and as i don't know i drove it like 1/2 mile with no trans fluid , we figured out that late ! i keept shifting between D & R, 2 & L IT ALWAYS GO FORWARD and no more reverse, what's going on ? before i replace the trans !?
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I just picked up a 2000 v6 passat with an automatic trans. I am new to passats, esp with autos. The cars transmission is having problems shifting with the trans gets hot (25-30 min run time) and slips. What is the trans code for this car and is it FWD or AWD? It has 220k, and the engine runs great. It was sorta an impulse buy, I plan on flipping it so hopefully tis a good investment. Any common things I should be aware of so I can get it tip top shape to sell it?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Solara with 195k miles, and it frequently gives off a hot oil smell as though oil or trans fluid is on a hot surface, but I cannot find any such thing through a visual inspection. About the time this started, the check engine light came on and stayed on until I replaced the upstream O2 sensor.I had hoped there was some connection, but the sporadic smell has continued, so apparently not. Is there some other explanation, or should I keep looking for a leak somewhere on the outside of the engine?
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I have a starting problem that is a new one to me. After leaving my car at the airport for two days, when I returned the instrument lights lit up but engine would not turn over. I had it washed too, so I figured the guys left a light on...nope. So I turned the ignition switch off a waited a bit, and the engine made 1/2 a turn. I waited a bit more, then a full turn. Long story short, after enough of these cycles, the engine started and I drove home, no problem. The next morning, I figure the battery is well charged, but I get the same behavior. I've had many experiences with batteries getting progressively weaker as I try to start, but this is the first time I seen a battery (or at least starter) get stronger with start attempts. The battery is well within its warrantee period, but this is Texas, so maybe it's dying already. But I don't want to go drop $120 if there's something else to look at first.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Solara Convertible, V6, low mileage (92,000), and it will reliably NOT start when the temperature gets below freezing. I have tried a couple of tank fulls of injector cleaner on advice from a friend, but no success. Once the temp falls below freezing overnight, the engine cranks but never catches. Once the temp is above freezing for a few hours, it fires up fine.
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I've got a 2003 Accent and my automatic transmission went out, no reverse and the only forward gear is 1st. Was thinking of pulling it and swapping it for a used, but I have been reading on here the many, many automatic transmission problems of the accent and my next thought was to just rebuild it myself. But now I'm thinking more along the of a swap from auto to manual, as I don't want to have to rebuild a transmission that is only going to have to be rebuilt again anyway. As far as stuff like the clutch pedal, linkages, gear shifter, I can get those pretty easily. Does the Accent have a hydraulic clutch?
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I have a 2000 Ex limited 7.3 4x4 with 196k on it. I bought a new snow plow two years ago and the first season, my transmission went out during a plow job. It had about 175k on the truck and I bought it with 155k with no real knowledge of any work being done to the transmission. So, I had a local transmission shop rebuild the transmission. The owner has done plenty of transmissions for my family in the past with no issues. Once I got the truck back, the reverse was lagging. I didn't recall it being that way, so after month or so, I took it back in to him. It was about 7 seconds to shift to reverse.
He replaced a solenoid and valve I believe. That supposedly fixed the issue and got it down to about 3-4 seconds. I drove it for a month or so then took it back when I was plowing and the reverse went out. He dropped it and went through it. He said the check ball went through the backing plate. He repaired and now I am driving it, but still not happy with the reverse lag and it's out of his warranty period. It's irritating day to day, but when plowing snow, it'll drive you mad! I'm no transmission guy, and not sure why it's all of a sudden different than it was prior to rebuild.
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I had my passenger side window replaced, and the car now has a strong smell of adhesive. I have left the windows open for a week, and the smell just gets stronger.
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The engine light on my 2001 Toyota Solara V6 keeps coming on with a code that indicates the Catalytic convertor. The convertor has been replaced 3 times with Mineke non-OEM replacements. The O2 sensor on the muffler has also been replaced.
Question, is there any other repair that can be done to correct this short of Toyota doing a full exhaust replacement?
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I have a 2005 Toyota camry solara with 66,000. Does the timing belt need to be done now due to age of the car?? Or wait alittle longer?
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I have been hearing a knocking sound from rear passenger side wheel. My car is a Toyota Solara 2007 with 87k miles on it, tires were changed last week so the issue is not with the tire. I have attached the video url. Why am I hearing this noise. The noise starts after I drive for some distance (15-20 miles), it does not start as soon as I start driving.
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The right rear wheel on my 2003 Toyota Solara is clicking then freezes up, what it might be?
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Sometimes when putting the vehicle into first it's almost impossible to get it to go into gear. Sometimes it's super smooth. Also when putting into reverse we hear a loud clunk. That one is most of the time but sometimes it goes in smooth. I was doing some looking around at the pedals because I think I am going to have to replace my master cylinder and noticed that on the inside of the vehicle where the clutch master cylinder comes into the vehicle it's leaking black fluid. Does that automatically mean my clutch master cylinder needs to be changed? Could this be the cause of it being difficult to shift because the clutch isn't fully disengaging?
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My 2000 Jetta gls vr6 automatic was not shifting into reverse until it warmed up a bit, so I did a filter and fluid change, car level, warm pumped fluid while shifting gears. No problem. Next morning no forward fear, guess I split the gasket by over tighting. Had it towed home. Oh, tried to get to work, adding fluid made it go. Now now gasket and fluid. No gears at all. Generic code reader said electric malfunction on every shift solinoid, torque converter lockout and something about shift timing malfunction. Basically everything connected to ribbon harness. What's up? Did I fry it. Also I have a 2002 triptronic from my 2002 vr6, suppose that's not a bolt on?
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I have a 2003 Accent and it has been over heating constantly for about 5 months. After it started, we replaced the main radiator hose, thermostat, radiator cap AND a head and head gasket. It worked for about 2 weeks and then over heated again. It seems like there is too much pressure somewhere because the lid for my reservoir shoots off and all the coolant comes out. I'm just not sure where to look for a clog since it is coming out of the reservoir. It also recently started having transmission problems(?) or that is what I think it is... It won't go in reverse and has a hard time shifting sometimes. I'm not sure if it could be related or if it is the tranny also.
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Car is 2000 Corolla 4-spd auto at 65k miles (bought used 3 years ago). Replace CV axles about 1.5 years ago.
When I backed out today, I saw a red fluid in the snow. Also, my trans fluid has been slowly declining (I've been adding more in).
Where is it likely to leak from? Is the only place the output shaft seals? Would the mechanic be able to spot it out easily?
I saw some posts where the entire gearbox had to be removed (but i think that was for a manual trans)..I hope that doesn't apply to autos.
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I bought a 2005 Accent with 150k one year ago and 3 months ago got AT fluid and filter changed. Color was very dark my mechanic friend said.
I checked the fluid and after just 3 months light driving, noticed it smelled burnt and so just changed it again yesterday and it was very dark.
Another piece of info is that previously when got the fluid changed 3 months ago the level registered way above high when car was off but then then normal when running in N. Same thing is happening now. My knowledgeable mechanic friend just told me to keep my eye on it.
There are no shifting issues, except for just light clunk when shifting into Reverse, but other than that it's great.
I just want to know what problems might be going on to burn the fluid so fast and have strange level readings when car is off but okay when on. I read some stuff about solenoids but because shifting is great should I even consider that?
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If I press the gas a little hard in drive, my tires squeal but if I'm in reverse I can feel a slipping in the trans. If I try to back a trailer up an inclined driveway, it won't go, the trans slips. I have no crud in the pan. I've replaced the reverse boost valve. I installed a Trans-Go kit which is suppose to eliminate the reverse slip but it hasn't worked. Everything else works just fine and my fluid is red. I have engine braking in 2nd and 1st. The van backs up fine, it just does this in reverse under load.
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I have 1995 Toyota Avalon w/173K miles. It’s in good shape mechanically and cosmetically. My 16 yr old daughter is the primary driver. I have extensive service records and have replaced the springs/struts, o2 sensors, and a few other bits. My question is related to hard shifts and a check engine light. During the summer the trans shifts normally. In the fall & winter, when temps dip below 50 degrees, the trans shifts harshly and the check engine light blinks indicating a trans solenoid is defective. The trans fluid has been flushed twice, most recently in Oct 2008 at the Toyota dealership. My theory is the techs filled the trans with a heavier weight fluid than is necessary and that is triggering the codes.
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I'm troubleshooting my sons 2000 Echo with a manual transmission. No reverse light. Very puzzling? The red wire with blue stripe in the trunk area is always hot. Makes no difference if the shifter is in reverse gear or not. Yet, the reverse lamps don't come on. I removed both bulbs and tested them at the battery using jumpers. They both come on. I have not gone under the car yet. My question is: does this car have a neutral start switch, and a back up light switch. If yes, which switch is feeding the other? Any pictures of where these switches are located? My guess is that the back up light switch is faulty, if there is one.
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Experienced a clunk when shifting from D to R, especially when in a parking situation where you might shift back and forth a few times. I always make sure the car is not rolling and my foot is firmly on the brake while shifting from D to R or vise versa, but it doesn't seem to work. Is this normal with the DSG or should i bring it in to the dealer?
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