Toyota - Camry - Transmissions :: Stalled When Put Car In Reverse While Driving
Mar 22, 2011
During our last ice storm during a nice long skid down an icy hit, I reverted suddenly back to my days one decade ago of driving a stick-shift in the ice and tried to down-shift our '98 Camry (automatic). I placed it in reverse. It stalled. The car continues to run, but the check engine light came on. I took it into the garage and they couldn't find any engine issues. They turned off the check engine light. It came back on the next day. Sometimes it sounds like the gears aren't shifting automatically as I drive (rpms run high.) Am I damaging the car by continuing to drive it?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry CE (2.2L/V4) w/ 130,000 miles on it. Just recently I have been experiencing a stalling issue after driving on the highway for 19 miles (or 20 minutes) at a speed greater than 65 mph. As soon as I exit and take my foot off the gas the car will stall as if I just turned the key in the off position. After I pull over, turn the key in the off position and wait a minute or two, the car start right up as if nothing happening. The idle seems to be ?normal?. The engine light does not come on when this happens.
If I feel the car may stall when still on the highway after slowing down, I can shift the car into neutral and hold the idle speed high enough to continue driving. However the car will eventually stall. But again and I restart it and be on my merry way without incident. I have try switching to high octane gas, but that did not work. If I disconnect the battery for a few hours the computer reboots itself and it will take a few more trips at high speeds for this issue to occur again. I have put in a fuel injector cleaner and cleaned the butterfly value (air intake). I own an Auto Xray code scanner; however it is not showing any error codes. What this issue may be?
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My daughter's 2002 Saturn S-series coupe has a manual transmission. Lately it has been jumping out of 2nd gear, and occassionally 4th and reverse. What is the most likely cause?
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While driving in a storm over the winter, I hit a skid and reverted to my old days of driving on ice (in a different stick-shift car). I tried to down-shift our '98 Camry (automatic)....so I placed it in reverse. It stalled. The car continues to run, but the check engine light has been on since that day.
I took it into a nearby garage the next week and they couldn't find any engine issues that time. They turned off the check engine light. It came back on the next day. I went to Advanced Auto Parts and got the code read: PO 171.
Since then, I've been driving the car once or twice a week, saving up $$ before taking it to my new repair shop -- to which we've switched for our other car. What might I expect to hear from them about our Camry? Am I damaging the car by continuing to drive it?
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For a 2011 Camry, how can the automatic door locks (shifting to park/unpark be disabled?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 207K miles on it. I recently replaced the catalytic converter on it in order to fix the P0420 code. I drove the car to work the next day and the test came back under the max specs. I drove back home and everything was fine. No more CEL.
Now I have the problem where the car starts normal when its cooled down, but if I drive it for a few minutes and turn it off and back on again it stalls. If I let it cool down for a minute it will turn on but idle really rough like at 400 RPMs. At times it will stall back again.
The only other thing I did differently was pump a full tank of gas at a different gas station than I normally do. Before I changed the CAT I had no problems like this.
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I have a 2003 Nissan Murano with over 100k miles on it that's been serving me well for the past year and I've never had any problems until now. One day when I was accelerating after a stop light turned green the car stalled. I restarted it and it did it again right away. I was visiting my family at the time but managed to drive the 2.5 hours home with no problem and this has only happened once since and it has been awhile since the event. I have since started accelerating slower, but I think a problem is still present. I went to Autozone for a free code reading and received 3 possible codes: P0746, P0430, and P1700. The check engine light came on not long before the first occurrence.
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5 speed stick shift, first thing in the morning no problem, after driving a while it shakes in reverse and does not want to move, going forward is no problem, clutch and cv joints were replaced 4 years ago, 170k miles.
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I have an automatic 2002 Echo. Like 2 or 3 days ago I started hearing a noise when I drive in reverse. Is a mix of friction and vibration and it gets louder the faster I drive, only in reverse. I read that this could be the symptom of a bad engine mount but I haven't been able to pinpoint it.
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My 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6. 37,500 miles. Occasionally when I'm parked shifting down to reverse it's so tight/put effort to shift & it literally thumps the entire car.. I heard to put the E-BRAKE/PARKING BRAKE down BEFORE shifting it to park & it worked but occasionally even with the E-BRAKE/PARKING BRAKE it still jerks the entire car going from PARK to REVERSE.
Also going from REVERSE to NEUTRAL it gives off a little vibration underneath me ALL THE TIME going from REVERSE to NEUTRAL.. I know these are so many questions that are probably a no-brainer answer but I'm looking to see if any one here had/has or heard of a similar or exact problem. Is the trans fluid low or dirty? I saw the CARFAX I didn't see the services he's done it's only been 1 owner on this car I'm the second. Previous owner leased it brand new.
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A140E transaxle issue... I have what I surmise is a direct clutch engagement issue. It takes (literally) 3 or MINUTES to engage reverse. And obviously the 2 -3 shift is slow also. It acts like there is a restriction in the passage to the direct piston. I rebuilt about 5 years ago, so am familiar with the teardown.
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Have a 2003 Saturn Vue with a variable transmission (rebuilt). It will only go in reverse even when in drive, or natural.
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Reverse gear doesn't work on my 1999 F350, is the transmission need to be rebuilt? or it can be adjust thru the cable. the rest gears on transmission is Ok.
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When I started my car and put it in reverse, it didn't move. It felt like my front, right wheel was in a divet or was being blocked somehow (intuitively it seemed like if I accelerated enough, it would eventually move, but since there was nothing physically stopping it - that I could see - I didn't want to break something by doing that). I tried putting it in drive and neutral and the same issue was still there. I put the car up on a jack and checked one wheel at a time - I could move each wheel completely around in both directions.
I could move the steering wheel all the way to the right and to the left. I tried turning off the 4-wheel drive and that didn't do anything. At this point I'm concerned it could be the transmission or the drive shaft, but I'm not sure what to look for in order to know if I need to get it towed to a shop (hoping I can avoid this) or if there's a simple test I can do, or a way to "reset" something if it may be locked. I haven't had anything happen to the car that would have been of concern.
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My 1996 Buick Park Avenue had problems finding reverse. You would have to move the shifter in and out of reverse and get it in just the right spot to go into reverse. once it is going in reverse you can hear a slight ticking sound like the park gear isn't totally disengaged. now it is nearly impossible to find reverse and when you put it in neutral its like it is in park.
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I am considering buying a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan with a reported transmission problem. Mileage is around 120k, and the price MIGHT be reasonable even if a trans rebuild would be necessary. I have not seen the vehicle yet, so I'm not yet committed to anything.
Seller claims the car shifts just fine going forward but will not move in reverse. Is this immediately clear that rebuild is going to be necessary? Are there less invasive repairs possible such as valves or controls or other parts which might solve this problem?
I suppose a Caravan transmission at 120,000miles is probably nearing the end of its lifetime, at least that was true of older ones. But like I said, the price is low enough that the cost of a rebuild might be justifiable if all else about the vehicle looks good. I want to have a better sense of the prospects before I invest time in going to look at this...it's about 50 miles away. I have a local transmission shop that I trust and which has reasonable prices
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The truck will go into reverse, but will not go into drive or any of the other gears. When shifted into one of those gears, it just idles as though in neutral. This started as I was driving down the highway at approximate 70mph. The speedometer jumped up then fell to zero as the car slowed to a stop. There was no noise except the sound of rapid fuel intake and then it went to idling. I have been told it may be a speed sensor, but I was wondering if there was anyway to confirm that before I have the truck towed down to a mechanic and find out its more than I want to pay to fix it.
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My car is taking a long time shifting from reverse to drive in the morning. Do you know what may be causing it and how to fix it. It's a 1995 automatic ford explorer.
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My fiancee has a 1995 Toyota Camry that she uses as her work vehicle and yesterday the car started making a clinking noise from the front that I thought was a broken CV but after going to 2 mechanics we were told it was something with the transmission but neither mechanic did trannys so they wouldn't go any farther into it. When put into gear it there was a loud clinking sound that sounded like it was coming from the front driver side wheel and the car wouldn't move. Before spending the money and bringing it to the only transmission specialist in town I figured I would try here first because I have learned specialist usually means more money, especially when your the only specialist in town. Is there any common issues with transmissions that would cause a clinking or metal on metal sound?
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Transmission comes out of gear and has a loud whirring sound when in reverse, but not every time. it has happened when driving at about 60 mph (twice) Sometimes it happens a couple times in a row sometimes it is ok for a couple weeks.
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I came home last night and rolled into the driveway. With the car in neutral I took my foot off the clutch and the car stalled. I get in the car this morning to go to work, and it's still happening. I put it in reverse to see if it will drive.....and now it's stuck in reverse.
I can't get it into any other gear or neutral..........even when the car is off. I've unattached the linkage, and the shift knob moves freely.....so I don't think it's that. I found these old threads (one even mine)
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So I'm lead to believe that the master/slave cylinder is acting up again. Also, how can I get it into neutral so I can at least get it towed and stop blocking my driveway?
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