I have an '04 Toyota solar a. In 2012 I replaced the rear calipers and rear break pads and rotors Now 18 months later I have been told that my rear caliper piston is frozen and I have to replace both calipers and beak pad and rotors. Does this sound reasonable. It will cost me another $600. What should I do
View 11 RepliesSo, my right, rear, brake caliper froze in the open position a little while back; I hit the brake hard, it held, heard a clack, then it let go and stayed in the open (uncompressed) position. I lost some braking power but at least have been able to drive. No visible brake fluid leak, other three brakes working fine.
At 125K, I've decided to do a full brake job, and am about to search for some of the parts on the awesome stickied parts reference list up above. I'll hopefully find some parts are available at NAPA, where I'm also ordering the right side cv axle.
So, I'm only finding remanufactured brake calipers at NAPA. Are they decent or should I look for something new elsewhere?
How to retact the piston on the rear Caliper on a 2005 phaeton.
View 3 RepliesI was replacing the brakes on the X, the threaded part that receives the top bolt for the caliper is frozen. I tried whacking it with a hammer and tried to free it up by turning it but no good. The bottom bolt assembly worked like it should but the top is frozen solid and makes the brakes rub, you can smell it. Do I need to replace the whole assembly or is there replacement parts for this?
View 6 RepliesWas replacing the rear brakes on my Mom's 2010 Prius II and found a tiny tear in the piston dust boot on the driver side. The piston still moves freely. I was hoping the boot could be replaced without removing the piston but from reading the repair manual on the brakes it specifically says the boot must be placed on the piston before the piston is installed.
So now I'm debating on what to do. I can rebuild the caliper for almost nothing but I can't bleed the brakes because of the Prius' system. I would have to take it to the dealer afterwards and not sure about driving it there. Do things could be damaged with air in the system?
One of the caliper does not fully retract when I don't push the brake, the wheel is hard to rotate when the car is on the lift.
I pretty sure it is the square ring the problem.
I know that those square ring worth only a couple of bucks.
My wife has a 2005 toyota camry with about 84000 miles. She had been complaining of intermittent issues but no one could find the cause till yesterday. Her front brakes were froze and would not release. I took it to the shop and they said the left front was hung and the pad came off and chewed the rotor up. They suggested a brake job. Well in the process of replacing rotors and pads on the front they could not get the caliper to release. Make a long story short, the rotor and pads are changed but the front brakes will not release. They checked the lines and they look good.
View 7 RepliesStarted to change front pads and rotors on my GX470, but couldn't get the caliper bolts loose. Is it safe to use a torch to heat up the area around the bolts so I can loosen the bolts? Any other way to break these bolts free?
View 12 RepliesMy right front brake caliper is frozen and I cannot turn the tire. This happened about a month ago and I went to Autozone and they gave me a new caliper, rotor and brakes, under warranty, and now the caliper is frozen again and I cannot turn the tire when jacked up. It seems to release after a period of time. I am not sure if it has a proportioning valve for the front brakes, but the driver side wheel turns freely and is not stuck.
View 2 RepliesOK, well i have an old toyota pick up, One of the spark plugs ( the third cylinder) has some oily residue on it, indicating a problem with the piston. How bad could this be? Is it worth it to try and have fixed? I also am rebuilding my carb right now, so i am wondering if i is even worth continuing if the engine is messed up.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 Toyota Camry that we purchased 14 months ago. When purchased it had bad brakes so the dealer replaced the rotors and calipers at their expense. A month ago I took the car in for a routine oil change and was notified that my rear calipers were stuck open and that my rear brakes were not working and rusted. The rotors look hardly worn, the one on the passenger side has some deep grooves in it and the driver side is pitted. We feel that we had poor work done when the brakes were replaced and that the back never worked. After the brake job was done we would get some "chinging" noise in the back brakes and I had them inspected twice and they said everything was fine. But now we find out they weren't fine.
View 8 RepliesMy '03 3.5 has the driver side rear brake piston stuck. Tried the C clamp but no movement. Short of replacing the entire caliper...
View 9 RepliesJust purchased 2015 Camry LE. While taking delivery, I noticed a subtle piston slap that started shortly after the engine started and completely went away after driving the car for about 10 minutes. Most people would not consider it an issue, but I am an engineer working with large industrial engines all the time so it was a concern. I asked to drive another Camry on the lot and it had the same issue. The service manager came out and said that this slap is normal and all 2012 - 2015 Camry with 2AR-FE engine do this. I bought the car anyway since I loved the overall design, ride quality and the features, but the piston slap keeps bothering me.
2012-2015 Camry equipped with 2AR-FE 2.5L engine? In order to check you have to start the cold engine and wait for the RPMs to drop to around 900 which will take 1-2 min. Put your ear in front of the radiator and listed to the subtle metallic tapping noise of the pistons rocking and slapping the bore walls. The noise will last for about 10 minutes until the pistons expand and close the excess gap between them and the bore.
I just got an 02 SC430 and I am going through a few things. The Nav screen works fine but is frozen in the rear tilt position. I would be okay if it were frozen all the way forward???
View 1 RepliesIt's only -3C (26 F) here in Toronto yet I can't roll down any of the windows on my 2013 SE, they are stuck/frozen. Never had this with any other car I owned - it would have to be a lot colder than that.
View 14 Replies2007 corolla 64K original factory calipers. I bought pads and rotors today to replace my front brakes. When I removed the right caliper I noticed that the boot was danaged ( about 1" long tear ). but does not leak. I put the pads and rotors on anyways.What would be the normal repair for this Leave it, replace thr boot, replace the whole caliper or replace both calipers. This also has ABS. I have never bleed ABS brakes before. What is the best way for a DIYer to bleed this type of brakes.
View 9 RepliesMy 2004 Toyota Highlander with 84K miles has been diagnosed with a seized front driver side brake caliper with worn brake pad (1/32). I had recall work done a few days ago at the dealership and this was discovered afterward during the "complimentary" multi-point check-up. - You know, the long laundry list of recommended work they try to sell you on. Of course the brake work is actually necessary.
Since the vehicle was just inspected 2 months ago at our local shop, my husband suggested I take it back there to verify the diagnosis and see what that mechanic would recommend. That mechanic confirmed and showed me the seized caliper/worn pad, which, by the way, was functioning well in mid January at inspection, and measured 7/32. This mechanic recommends replacing both calipers, pads, turning rotors. There was no indication of a problem with the RF caliper, but he says it's just a good idea to replace it so we would avoid having another problem in the future.
I want to ask everyone's opinion regarding replacement of just the bad caliper vs. both. Are we getting ripped off as far as the estimate and is the flush necessary? Also, is this issue typical in the first place, and what causes a brake caliper to seize? We've had several other vehicles driven many more miles than my Highlander and never experienced a seized caliper.
I'm in need of what's going on with my 2005 Toyota Camry 2.4L (American Build), Non-skid, on the front brakes.
About 2 months ago my L/F brakes just locked up. So, I towed it to the dealership to have the brakes looked at and worked on. They said my Camry was locking up because the L/F caliper is freezing up. So, what the dealership did is replace the 2 front rotors, new brake pads, and new calipers. Got the brake fluid flushed out, also. Now, after about a thousand miles later and about 2 months, the same thing is happening. The L/F caliper are locking up.
I brought it back to the dealership and they said NOW, that it's the "ABS Actuator Pump Assembly" and the parts/labor would cost roughly $ 1300 dollars.. Now, when they replaced that part. The same problem is still happening. The L/F caliper is locking up. Luckily, when it was locking up I didn't drive the vehicle to far to damage the brand new brakes that was put in the first place.
My 2009 Camry with 72k on it has started to make an intermittent high pitched whine from the rear of the car. It's only noticeable while accelerating or maintaining speed.
View 1 RepliesSo I just did my rear brake pads and rotors a few days ago. For the last few months, my e brake hadn't been working well (have to pull it way up, and still weak).
While doing the brakes, I noticed the park brake arm was more or less seized on the left rear. I worked it a bit, and then my park brake worked perfect - 4 or 5 clicks, right on.
Then I noticed it isn't disengaging (brake smoke). I figured the ratcheting mechanism in the piston must be kaput.
So today I got a new (reman) caliper & bracket, installed it, and... still sticking. Cables are fine, the arm is moving fine. I'm now certain that the problem must be hydraulic, but what?
I would think that a master cylinder or booster would cause all the brakes to drag, or at least one axle worth, but that isn't the case. After a short spin on the freeway with little brake use, 3 of the brakes show 40 - 45C or so, and the sticking one shows 150C. (with an infrared thermometer).
During the brake job I noticed the left side was harder to turn in than the right, so I guess that could have been hydraulic back pressure somehow. Didn't seem to notice any damage to the hoses, they look pretty mint. master cylinder still?
I did the rear bearings at the same time. The bearing on the left was bone dry, probably from overheating in the past - I'm sure this POS stuck at some other time too, overheated and lost its grease. right side was fine but I figured might as well do them both.
According to the repair manual, you need to replace item 3, a Torque to Yield bolt, when removing the caliper. What is the part VW part number?
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