Toyota - Camry - Noises - Wheels :: 2001 - Getting Sound At Slow Speed
Apr 19, 2011
I recently (<90 days, < 3K miles) had inner & outer tie rods replaced on the right side; they were rusted from when I lived in PA and had some play in them. Now I'm hearing a funny sound at low speeds (like when parking) that's just like a stick getting caught in the wheel well ("thunk") that seems to be coming from the same spot, but I can't seem to replicate it let alone hear it at the shop. This is a 2001 Camry LE 2.2L I4 with 97K mostly highway miles and one winter on salt/snow.
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Mazda5; 2010; 105,000 miles.
Recently, our Mazda has started making a subdued grinding sound. It happens only when accelerating from idling to 10 miles per hour. It does not occur over 10 mph, in neutral, or park. It doesn't happen when starting the car or in reverse either. according to my wife, it does happens when turning right at slow speeds, but not left.
We have just driven it to our mechanic but it may take a couple days before they are able to look at it.
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So i just recently purchased my 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6 about a month ago. At first everything is great which it STILL is but lately I've discovered that I'm hearing a weird & SERIOUSLY IRRITATING noise/sound/rattle! Every time I drive between 10mph-40mph and it gets rapidly fast as I increase speed.. thats the RATTLE noise. I did my research and it said it can be a loose bolt or a loose heat shield underneath but I'd like some advice from Toyota Nation. Also when i make a slight turn I hear a weird clunking or some weird unexplainable noise. All in all this car is awesome .. smooth/FAST/comfy seats for me/agile/great on gas compared to my 2011 Camry 4 cylinder I had ..
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On my 2006 Camry, my ABS comes on intermittently when braking (~5% of the time) and the speed is very slow (5 mph or less). Exact speed is hard to say. I think one of the ABS sensors is misreading. No ABS fault light on dash.I have an explanation of how to check the sensors for AC voltage when spinning the wheel using a DVM.
1. Without a lift can I check this under the hood instead of at the wheel? Possibly at the plug into the ABS module.
2. Someone else on another thread mentioned that their dealership hooked in a monitor and drove around.
When I asked my dealership how they would diagnose this, they said they would do the same check as I mentioned above (#1). This would be expensive and since it is intermittent, they might not see anything. Do this monitor exists and what it is called?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry. About 10 months ago, when I get a transmission fluid change, the mechanic told me that my power steering fluid is dirty. A few month later, in the cold winter month, my steering wheel make loud screeching noise when the engine is cold only. The mechanic told me that I have a small power steering leak. But since I don't see the power steering fluid level goes down and the mechanic say I don't have to fix it now, I didn't do anything about it.
About a month ago, there is a squeaking noise come from my steering wheel every time I drive very slowly out of (or into) my driveway and turning the wheel. Now I heard the noise when I drive slowly (10 mph) and turning the wheel too. So what is the problem that cause the noise when I turn the wheel at slow speed? I only drive about 5k miles a year. Is it safe if I just continue to ignore the problem?
Also, the color of my current power steering fluid is amber, but a little dark. Which power steering fluid should I buy?
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I have a clunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they replaced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there --
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My 2001 Toyota Camry V6's A/C has been very slow get cold air through the vents since the weather has warmed up. I've heard of A/C systems needing to be recharged. We just had the 90,000 maintenance done on it 4 months ago. Is this more likely the solution than putting coolant into the reservoir under the hood myself?
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I drive a 2001 Toyota Camry LE, 2.2 4 cylinder. It has about 206k miles on it… About 2 months ago I started to feel slight hesitation when I was driving…. It was so slight I wasn’t sure if it was happening or not. Recently the hesitation has become much worse… typically it will hesitate and jerk when I try to accelerate from slow speeds… this primarily happens when the car is cold. It will also jerk and hesitate when I am cruising at a fixed speed. If I step on the gas, the jerking stops.
Here are known issues and recent work I have had done… in November I replaced my complete exhaust system myself, including the downstream oxygen sensor. The cat is now bad and it will rattle. I had a mechanic replace my water pump, timing belt and all pulleys and tensioners associated with it about 2 weeks ago. The hesitation predated this problem.
About 5 years ago I replaced my own plugs and wires… when I did this; I noticed oil on one plug. This was for the cylinder closest to the driver’s side. I never noticed any issues with the performance of my car related to the oil, and I do not burn through much… perhaps a quart every 2 months. About a week ago I replaced my plugs and noticed the oil again. I do not know if this relates to my hesitation problem or not. I also filled my tank and used a container of injector cleaner, thinking perhaps a clogged injector was causing the problem.
The problem still exists.
Now I am thinking it might be one of two problems… either a defective ignition coil or a bad throttle position sensor. Yesterday I borrowed a code reader… it told me I had “long fuel trim in bank 1”.
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i have a Subaru legacy rs 1996 twin turbo, about 6 months ago now i replaced both front outer CV joints and boots due to a grinding when turning at slow speed e.g a car park. the grinding had gone and its was all fine until now the same grinding as come back. its it normal for the CV joint to wear out that fast or could there be a different problem?
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I have a 2000 Camry, 4 cyl. It was in an accident on the front right before I bought it. I took it to Sears for alignment and 4-6 adjustments were made to pull it to within spec. One evidently is not correctable (the caster). After I bought it and after the alignment, I replaced the sway bar link, as the upper ball and socket was very loose. The problem I am trying to solve now is when I turn at low speed, I get a sound like a plucking of a large rubber band. (BUNG) I jacked and blocked up both sides and turning both ways all the way made no sound or play, and nothing is touching like the wheel well plastic or other parts. Then, I lowered the front right (where the accident was) to put weight on it, and it no noise when turning. When I lowered the left side also, there was still no sound. No sounds or shaking at 50-60 mph.
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Ok,I have brought my car (2005 Toyota Echo) into the shop three times and they can't figure it out. I have summer and winter tires. Last summer the summer tires were fine, the winter tires were fine, then I changed the front tires, and couldn't remove the back tires (I hit them with a hammer and 2x4 and they didn't come off). From that point on my car has vibrated at around 60mph, but not 100% of the time.
I took the car in to the mechanic, they changed the back tire for me and balanced the front...still vibrates, they then balanced the back...still vibrates. Now they say the disk rotor is bent, and want to fix that but aren't sure that will fix the problem. What's going on, I changed the front tires and now the car vibrates at high speed most of the time, but not all the time.
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My 2008 Avalon A/C fan speed periodically won't run at the highest speed. When I take it off of "auto", I can step up the fan speed and see the segments on the display light up with each increase in speed. Each segment lights up (they are in a oval shape) indicating that it should be at the highest speed, but it just doesn't seem to blow as hard as it used to.
I think this fan motor is controlled by a PWM controller rather than resistors. Is that correct and where I could find the PWM controller? My thought was that if it was not too expensive I would change that out first. If the fan works, could there be a problem with the fan motor?
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I have been hearing a knocking sound from rear passenger side wheel. My car is a Toyota Solara 2007 with 87k miles on it, tires were changed last week so the issue is not with the tire. I have attached the video url. Why am I hearing this noise. The noise starts after I drive for some distance (15-20 miles), it does not start as soon as I start driving.
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I own a Toyota Camry that has about 180,000 miles. Yesterday, when I started the car, a high pitched whine occurred when the engine turned and the volume of the whine decreased after about 5 minutes (car was in park). The pitch of the whine increases when I accelerate, up to about 50 mph, and then the whine stops around the 50 mph mark. When the car decelerates, the pitch of the whine decreases. This does not seem to be linked in any way to the steering. The whine does occur when the car idles.
There are no alert lights on in the dashboard, only an odd noise.
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Lately my Sienna makes this noise whenever it is started. The noise lasts for 5-10 seconds. It builds up very loud towards the end and then stops abruptly. I made a recording of the sound and have attached it.
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My awesome 1990 Toyota Pickup (6 cyl., supercab), fondly named Ol' Rusty, has a measly 245,000 miles on it and still running strong. The one problem is that when it is very cold out such as this morning (-10F), I get a terrible noise coming from under the hood just in front of the steering column. It sounds like a belt rubbing, but I can't find it. It happens when I start going faster than 20 mph and goes away once the engine is completely warm. When it's happening, the speedometer jumps a bit. Interestingly, if I warm the truck up for 10 minutes or more so that the engine is completely warm, it still happens when I first drive the truck. Is this something I need to worry about or can I continue to ignore it like I have been for the last 3 years?
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My '05 Highlander transmission seems to be geared wrong. When I slow down the car seems to slip into a higher gear and speed up. It is worse when the air conditioning is on.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Echo which developed severe vibration feedback to the steering wheel when the car was driven at low speed or stopped at a traffic sign or signal.
I took the car to the Toyota dealer and they checked the brakes, replaced the front rotors. They also checked the fuel pump and other engine components. The spark plugs and PCV vale were replaced, as well as the crank seal.
When I left the garage, the vibration reappeared after driving about five minutes. I immediately went back to the garage and waited while the mechanic checked the car. He came to the waiting room and said I would not believe what they found. I went to the garage with him and the hood on the car was raised. He started the car and there was no unusual vibration.
He closed the hood and the vibration started again. The problem was that the underhood reinforcement panel had come unwelded (or unglued) and it was vibrating. A mechanic came from the body shop and put a sealer/filler at the loose spots, we let the car sit for a while, the mechanic said the sealer/filler would expand to close the gap, and I drove the car home. The vibration had stopped.
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I bought a used Toyota Camry 2012. It has 40,000 miles on it now, The car shakes all the time. It feels like the front wheels are vibrating, and the suspension is bouncing all the time. At slow speeds, and it gets worse at faster speeds. All I can say is that it is very uncomfortable drive. When I bought the car a year ago it had a very luxurious ride. Now it feels like there is something very wrong. Enough wrong so that I do not even want to drive it anymore. I have taken it to 4 different Toyota dealers, and one private mechanic. All say that there is nothing wrong with the car.
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I thought I'd be free of problems having bought a new Toyota Rav4 in Jan. In June, with less than 3K miles, my husband had a (BIG) fender bender (turns out his meds made him blank out, he was driving at 10-15 mph) (and he is going on 80). Repairs cost over 3K, but I was able to drive it to the dealer. Soon after I got it back a month later, I started hearing a brief grinding noise under the accelerator, at speeds of 20-30 mph. Mostly after I took my foot off the accelerator, once or twice after I took my foot off the brake. This noise sounds like brakes grinding, appears very sporadically and briefly. I took it to the dealer and of course they could find nothing wrong, said everything checks out. They said to bring it back when it's doing the noise. Which it does maybe once a week, for a second or two. sheesh.What to do? I actually want to start all over, I do not want to drive with my ear to the gas pedal. (My husband now only drives in town!)
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My 2001 Dodge Durango has an intermittent clunking that seems to correlate to the wheels rotating and happens: at low speeds (0-5 mph)... however, it has gotten worse if I drive continuously for an hour and then stop. It will happen between 0 and 30mph and be much louder.
When the clunking happens, the steering wheel also rotates to to the right and the car will shake a little.
If I had to guess, the clunking is coming from the front left but really could be anywhere.
I have taken it to FireStone multiple times, they have test driven it all over... it never seems to happen when they have it.
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