My drive belt broke and I replaced it with a new one and now ac wont blow cold air. It was working fine before. I can hear the compressor running but not blowing cold air.
View 1 RepliesIs it possible to change the water pump and serpentine belt in a 2006 Toyota Camry with 4 cyl. engine in less than an hour?
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 Prius is having a problem with the AC. It will only blow cold air if the temp is set at MAX COLD. Any other temp setting and it will blow hot air. Really hot air. It makes no difference what the outside or inside temps are. Is there a simple fix for this?I can control the AC by setting it on Max Cold and changing the fan speed, but I would like for it to work on the auto setting the way it is supposed to.
View 2 Replies 2 questions regarding my 2005 Mariner 3.0L, as follows:
1. After a cold start (in the garage, so not freezing cold) the water pump belt - not the serpentine belt - squeaks for 15 - 20 seconds; ambient temperature doesn't matter. I had put a new belt on about a year ago, then this began 6 or so months later. Thinking I may have a defective belt, I replaced it again about 3 months ago, but the squeaking has continued - starting immediately after the replacement. My analysis is that the water pump bearing is going south. I've noticed that it is taking a little longer for the squeak to go away in the past few weeks, so it's probably getting worse, altho no leaks at this point. So the question is, so any other reason this is happening?
2. Assuming I do need to replace the WP, I bought a new one from the local parts house. I have a shop manual for the car, which tells me to remove the thermostat housing, hose connection to the WP, etc., and then remove the WP by removing just 3 bolts. However, the replacement part is just the front of the housing with the impeller and pulley included, so there are a half-dozen or so bolts that hold this new part onto the WP housing. So, doing this change-out? Will the front of the WP housing come off by itself without disconnecting the hose, etc., or do I first have to remove the whole WP and then take it apart to replace the impeller and front cover? I can't really tell from the pic in the shop manual, and it doesn't address dis-assembly of the WP.
Also, I'd like to just remove the belt w/o cutting it and having to buy a new one. Can I do this by just loosening the WP bolts? (I know how to re-install, obviously.)
The rear vents in my '09 Toyota Sienna minivan do not blow heat, only cold. The vents up front work just fine, but when I turn on the rear heater (whether from the front controls or from the rear controls), my kids get iced. They never blow heat, even after long periods of time. (Also, the upper vents in the back do not blow strong, even on High, although the lower one does). I heard something about an interior heat sensor, and about blend doors.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Toyota Avalon. The A/C will only come on if the switch is turned to full blast, but even then it makes a really loud grinding noise and does not blow very cold air. Is this a compressor issue or blower motor? I am assuming the switch is bad since it only works on highest speed, but could it be something else causing this also?
View 3 RepliesThe a/c on my '05 Camry still puts out cool air, but not really cold anymore. I compare with my '08 Highlander that can still freeze your arms off in no time. We have had a warm spell lately, which is supposed to continue for another week, and while the Camry is putting out enough to eventually cool the air, it's just not up to it's usual standard. Are these a/c systems supposed to be sealed, and if so, is a leak the most likely reason ? I have not had it serviced in the past 3 years I've owned it. Is it worth it to try the "do-it-yourself" canned a/c service bottles or should I get the system pressure checked out first ?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 Corolla with a 1.8Liter 1zzfe engine.
I can hear a loud "rattle" at 1950 rpm from the drive belt area whether I'm driving down the street or if I rev it up while parked in neutral. It's not a tapping sound, more like a sheet metal rattle but I can't locate an loose sheet metal.
I thought it might have been the drivebelt tensioner. The plastic bushing on the small bolt cracked to pieces and I simply replaced it with a stack of washers. That's the bolt at the top of the piston that screws into the valve cover. I replaced the tension but still hear that rattle. I tried to locate it with a stethoscope but no luck.
I have a 2009 RAV4 and it has only 40,000 miles. Three weeks ago, I took it to a local Toyota dealership for oil change and tire rotation. The service manager told me that it needs the drive belt to be replaced and the oil in the four-wheel drive system needs to be replaced. I accepted his recommendation and have the job done. After paid almost $700, I took the car back. The next week, the engine lost power and did not respond to the gas pedal for a few seconds while I was driving on the highway. This problem occurred on and off while I was driving.
In addition, the brake light was on after I had the car fully parked and the car key was out. I took it back to the dealership. After diagnosed, the service manager told me that the "brake switch" has gone bad and it caused the engine lost power because it has a "break safe system". After paid about $130 to replace the "brake switch", the problem of engine lost power and won't respond to the gas pedal was gone. The next week, however, the engine light was on and the warning light of four-wheel drive was on. I took the car back to the dealership again. After diagnosed, this time they said the O2 sensor has gone bad and it caused the engine light on and the four wheel warning sign on. I took the car back again. So I paid another $450 to have the O2 sensor replaced. Now the car seems to be running normal.
I own a 2007 Camry LE. It's 4 cylinder and has 80k miles. Since I can remember, the A/C takes a really long time to start blowing cold air.
I'm in Miami, where ambient temp is about 90 F every day and it takes about 2-3 minutes to blow cold air. I can tell because this usually happens when I get around a certain street (SW 40th Street), so the problem is self-replicating regularly.
My father is a house A/C mechanic and he filled it with refrigerant but this has not fixed the problem. If the car has been driven and been parked under shade, the A/C blows cold air since the start. After being driven for 2-3 minutes, it blows cold air like a monster, I usually have to run it on 70 % cold and low fan - that's how well it performs.
I had the timing belt, water pump and thermostat replaced on my '97 RAV4. The next morning while braking at a red light I heard a rapidly repeating sound that sounded like metal on metal. The car never made that sound again but now I'm hearing a noise coming from the passenger side of the engine (timing belt side). When the engine is cold I don't hear it. After driving a while its starts, then once the engine warms up it generally goes away (except for this morning which was the coldest morning since this started, temps in the 40s).
I was only hearing the noise when the car was stopped either in drive or reverse (reverse sounded louder) if I lightly let up on the brake pedal (there's no pulsing in the brake pedal). Once under way the sound goes away. This morning it was making the sound virtually every time I came to a stop (once the car warmed up) even with my foot firmly on the brake pedal. I recorded the sound Saturday while standing still with the car in drive and my foot slightly easing up on the brake pedal. The sound starts at the 20:30 mark, what it could be?
How to remove the drive belt on my 2003 camry 4 cyl.
View 5 RepliesI have found on my new 2016 Camry XLE that on cooler mornings of 50 degrees and the engine is hot, when I set the AUTO button on and set the temperature to 70 degrees, the system blows out cold air through the top vents. I have to run the temperature up to 75 to receive warm air from below. Is there a way for the dealer to change the settings to warm at lower temperatures???
View 5 Replies2002 Camry 4 cyl. Can the idler pulley alone be replaced on the serpentine belt tensioner? I noticed a very slight side to side play when I had the belt off. No noise from it. When I looked at rock auto, they sell the whole bracket with the pulley.
View 2 RepliesMy issue is i recently have put two different sets of front LED turn signals in my car and only after a day or so they blow out. When i pull out the bulbs they smell burnt. i do have LED turn signals in the rear as well they are plug and play with decoders no resistor required. For the front ones i did add 50W 6Ohm resistors on each side.
View 7 RepliesI'm at the end of my rope! My 2005 Ford Five Hundred Limited has a constant problem with the A/C system and overheating. In the last year I've replaced the compress, expansion valve, dryer FOUR times. They have replaced the condenser, blower motor, and added Freon, and checked for leaks. It will blow cold when running fast and then blow hot. They have replaced belts pulleys, They have replaced the thermostat, fans, coolant reservoir, hoses. and it still overheats. I've taken it to 4 difference mechanics including two dealerships. No one can seem to fix this problem.
View 9 RepliesIt blows luke warm air, no hot or no AC just luke warm... what could it be?
View 1 RepliesWhen I plug up my phone and charger cord to either power outlet on my 2009 Camry the fuse blows. The charger cord and phone works in my other vehicles. I have checked other power cords in the Camry and it also blows the fuses. Would this be a relay that controls the fuses?
View 1 RepliesHistory - So my A/C was going out about 6 months ago. It would come in and out with cold air until eventually it just stopped all cold air and was only hot. Then the control knobs broke. I took it in and they told me I had to replace the control unit and that would fix all the issues. Well I got it back and the A/C was still blowing hot air (even though the knobs were now working).
So I took it back in and they said they couldn't find anything wrong and it must be this hairline crack that was leaking freon. they said they couldn't find the crack but loaded it up with freon and said i would have to 'wait it out' could be years could be a few weeks, they just didn't know. well, it worked for awhile but here i am in 102 degree heat and when I turn on the A/C in the really hot car the passenger side quickly blows cold air and the driver side takes about 20 minutes before it finally gets cold. What gives? I do not have dual temperature controls.
I took my wife's 05 Solara to the dealer for the pully recall recently and had the serpentine belts replaced while they had them off. Now there is a short belt squeak during cold start up only. I called the dealer and they said to bring it back which I plan to do asap. 2005 3.3 V-6 Solara ....
View 6 RepliesIt is a Camry 2005 3L 1MZ-FE engine, 100K KM on the clock. In the cold mornings, I hear noise from the timing belt area for about 3-4 minutes then the noise reduced. But I can still hear some noise all the time. From what I read, it appears that the hydraulic tensioner (tensioner idler pulley, NTN 13540-20030) is bad. Plus, I can feel that the car does not take off as fast as another older Camry with timing belt replaced (everything else is good with this Camry 2005)
My questions are:
1. Is it possible that only the tensioner is bad, not the timing belt to make the noise or both of them need to be bad?
2. If it is the case that only the tensioner is bad, is it possible to replace the tensioner only without changing the belt and other part (I mean without removing the crank pulley and other parts)? I don’t want to replace everything if I don’t have to.