My toyota will not idle. The last time this happened, it needed a new battery. The idle is controlled by the battery. The alternator doesn't kick in untill 1500 to 2000 rpms. The battery checks out OK this time. It's an 03 4cyl.
View 5 RepliesI replaced my engine that had 155,000 miles with a newer used one with about 30,000 miles. since the swap my gas mileage is down by one third or more. Everything else seems fine except that my cold start idle is up to 2000rpm's until it drops to normal within 3 minutes.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 Toyota Camry with over 200,000 miles. It is a manual: 5 speed. In the past few months it has started to idle at around 2000 RPMS, which is way too high. I took the car into a mechanic where I am currently living (Austin, TX), and they couldn't diagnose the problem, because, according to them, it didn't do it the whole time they had it. I admit, it doesn't do it all the time, but I know something is not right. It is beginning to idle high more frequently. How to diagnose this problem and to solve it!!
View 4 RepliesI have a 1998 Toyota Camry , whenever I start it after its been sitting for 3 or more hours the rpm's shoot up to2,000 and stay there for 3-4 minutes straight, if I hit the gas they don't go down, if I turn my heat on they come down a little bit.
View 3 RepliesSo my car started doing some weird things. at idle and only at idle it will go up and down between 1100 and 1500 rpm. No throttle input no clutch input or brake input. I do have a CEL on but when I read the code it gives me 01314 on brake electronics setting. I'm using a vchecker pro. I go into all the engine brake airbag and trans menus and do clear fault codes and this fixes it but id like to know what the actual problem is.
View 1 RepliesI was climbing up a hill on the highway, and I was aware of my issue by the time I hit the top of the hill - my car far into the red zone on the temp gauge.
I pulled over just after i got off, let it cool for a few minutes, check oil and coolant and they seemed fine (from what i could, but it was dark. Drove home because it was only a few mins away, and it had cooled a bit already, but it started sounding really weird at low rpms (1200-1500) almost a clanging noise.
Just as i was pulling into my driveway, there were a whole bunch of weird noises, and at least one of them was me losing coolant from the cap. Turned off the car and the coolant overflow box was completely full, and the radiator cap had leaked some too.
Some other things i noticed - sounded like boiling water inside the large hoses, hoses felt empty, and the coolant box emptied all of a sudden after the hoses sucks everything back up.
So the other day I was driving to my storage locker about 30 miles away. All of a sudden my rpms would shoot up to 2000 rpms then back down to 1500 . Slowly they would go up higher every time. On my way back I was about 2 miles away and I lost 3rd and 4th a presume. I would be going 20-25 and it felt like it would be shifting up to third but would shift down to 2nd running 3500 rpms. I had to go 20 the rest of the time. Finally I got home and realized my dipstick tube wasn't in the tranny and must have lost oil. So I got it back in and added more. Thought it was the filter and oil so dropped the pan and replaced it. Still nothing.
View 2 Replies!995 honda accord, 5 speed. Idle is fine until the engine warms up, then fluctuates between 1500 to 2500 rpms. The idle control valve was cleaned- no change. Valve was also replaced -also with no change. Put old valve back on. Computer was disconnected after cleaning and also after each valve change.Would the next step be to remove and clean the fast idle thermo sensor? Also how do you check the coolant lines coming in. Anything else I would need to check, clean or replace.
View 2 RepliesMy Camry seems to be overheating. When I'm driving the gauge maintains and reads 6/10, when the engine is idling, it goes upto 8/10, radiator fans kick in and then temperature goes down to 6/10 and keeps cycling over a period of 5 mins.
It's got 100K miles, water pump has not been replaced yet.
I checked the hose temperature; top hose 210 F, bottom hose 192, fans kick in when top hose is around 215 F.
I checked the engine temperature where the sender is installed and it was reading 205 F. Coolant level is OK. I burped the system. Previous owner told me, he had thermostat replaced by dealer.
Since having my engine replaced with a newer used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
View 3 Replies1992 camry 4 cylinder ... Since having my engine replaced with a used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
View 4 RepliesWe got our first taste of fall weather in Houston this weekend, and with it I've discovered a new problem with my truck. After the engine was up to temp, I noticed that the heater would blow cold air any time I sat at idle. If you rev up the rpm's to 1500-2000, you can feel the air start to get warm again. I'm guessing this means my heater core needs to be backflushed.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Camry 2.4 LE with 120k miles on it. It's been very well taken care of. As of now, here is the maintenance that has been completed at my dealership. By the way, I don't trust dealerships, but I do have one nearby that is actually beyond outstanding (and I know a little about cars):
- Regular oil changes, and always with 5W-30
- Radiator flush and thermostat replacement
- Tranny flush
- New front brakes, rear brakes cleaned, and lines flushed.
- Oil pan gasket replaced
- Valve cover gasket replaced
- Spark plugs replaced (at around 105k)
So, with this information being provided, here is my current problem. Lately, as I accelerate between 1500-2500 rpms, the engine has a louder than usual (but not too loud) groaning noise. Basically, the engine just sounds a tad louder than normal along with groaning noise. The engine also feels as though it is running kind of "dry" (if that makes any sense).
Now, above 2500 rpms, it's just fine. It's amazing on the highway, but I feel as though it has slightly lost acceleration in the city. The only issue with the car is the infamous greyish/blue smoke at startup, but that rarely happens and when it does, its a small amount of smoke, and it has never affected it's performance or gas mileage. Another thing is that I had to have that dreaded oil splash guard removed, because apparently the timing chain punctured it and it was about to fall off.
This problem has been recent within the last month. Just before this, the car has been on a roundtrip to Tucson from Tulsa, and Amarillo twice, complete with 32+mpg on the highway! So, what's wrong? Serptentine belt? PCV valve? Cam or something underneath the valve cover?
2003 F250. 6 speed. 5.4 2v. 4x4. 165,000 miles
When purchased, there was a vacuum leak and truck ran like crap and PO drove it that way for a while. I fixed the vacuum leak, discovered a miss between 1,500 and 2,000 rpms in every gear while accelerating. No miss at idle.
The truck has:
- no CEL
- new Motorcraft spark plugs that were not dropped, bumped, or over torqued.
- new fuel filter
- new air filter
- new alternator
*The miss usually does NOT happen in the morning on the way to work after sitting 14 hours.
*The miss almost always goes away after the truck gets up to operating temp.
*The miss ALWAYS is present after work on the way home after sitting 9 hours.
Fuel pressure?
Bad COP?
Fuel Injector?
Something totally different?
Just installed a new alternator today, and the motor (4 cyl.) idles rough when the AC is on. The battery was disconnected during the installation, but nothing else was touched. Is this caused by the new alternator itself, or because the battery was disconnected for a while? Should I set the idle speed a little higher or what?
View 3 RepliesMy 1994 Toyota Corolla idles at around 1500 and 2000 RPM just about anytime I drive it.
It is worst when I first start the car, and it gets better the longer I drive, however, it is still well above a normal idling range!!
I add oil regularly and do check the levels on most of my fluids on a weekly basis!
My car is standard 5 speed transmission, when my car is running my idle varys between 800ish to 1500 intermittently within seconds and if I don't drive it after starting the car it will stall on me (in neutral) after the rpms go up and down about 9 times.
The thing I found is if I disconnect my idle air control valve attached to my throttle body it stops the jumps in rpm. I have tried replacing the valve with one of my friends control valve Hyundai accent 2004 that works and fits perfectly on his doesn't work on mine. Right now I have my idle air control valve disconnected at the moment but i want to fix this issue because my rpms are at 1300 at idle.
I have a 2002 Accent 1.6L 72K miles, idle surging between 1500 - 2500 rpm after stopping from 50 mph, (with Code P0121) replaced TPS - No Luck . I reset the DTS error codes, ran it with a new TPS and same exact problem, Code P0121 came back, and surging continued, this happens when I decelerate from high speed- 50 mph or so and it will not go to normal idle, surges between 1500 and 2500 rpm when in park.
If I give the throttle pedal a good kick, the problem goes away, and it idles fine, nice and smooth and at normal rpm, the DTS code will clear, and stays cleared, mil light goes out. It almost seems like something is sticking, I know its not the throttle itself because when I do a live data, the TPS shows "0", if I manually push the throttle shaft closed at the throttle body, it is fully seated shut, so I know its not a sticking cable or anything. Can a sticking MAF sensor cause this? Maybe what I'll try tomorrow is rapping the throttle body with a rubber mallet while its surging, maybe something is not returning to its normal position in there.
I'm having a problem with my 6.0 back in September I started to notice a little miss with some black and white smock while accelerating so I took the truck to a power stroke specialist near my house to have it diagnosed they said my number 5 injector was starting to go bad so just this last week I finally got up enough money to get the injector changed I got the truck back yesterday from the mechanic. While driving I get a lot of shaking right around 1500 to 2000 rpms when I let off the accelerator it smooths out if I mash on it and keep the RPMs above 2000 it smooths out the truck still has a lot of power no check engine light has ever been on through this whole ordeal and there's a rough idle I guess the best way to describe the shacking would be if the truck was a standard shift and you were pulling a hill in to hi of a gear.
View 6 RepliesI recently acquired a 1.8t auto Wagon from a friend who passed away, I dont wanna sell it, so I figured why not keep it. So here's my question. On cold starts the RPM's kick up above 1K and then drop to the proper idle speed. The engine purrs nicely, but I have noticed that it sounds beefy inside the cabin during warm up. I can feel the light vibrations on the steering wheel. After I start driving the car warms up and everything seems normal. It just sounds like a fan or blower motor has come on with the engine. No ticking or anything like that. Is this normal?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2012 Toyota Camry le and for some reason it's been pinging on low RPMs. I've tried octane boosts and a cleaner and for some reason it's has the problem.
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