Toyota - Camry :: When Car Moves From A Dead Stop Feels Like It Starts From 2nd Gear
Feb 25, 2013
I have a 93 Camry V6 every time the car moves from a dead stop it feels like it starts from 2nd gear...
View 15 RepliesI have a 93 Camry V6 every time the car moves from a dead stop it feels like it starts from 2nd gear...
View 15 RepliesHaving throttle hesitation problems. This is the 3rd time I have had it in for this problem and they can't figure out what is wrong. The vehicle moves slightly forward from a stop and then goes dead for a few seconds then seems to recover and go.
View 11 RepliesI just have a 1999 ES300 that is having a strange issue. I realize this is a toyota forum, but the engines should all be the same.
When you accelerate from a stop at full throttle, the car feels very sluggish moving up the RPM range, and acts as though it is missing and stumbling the entire way up. If you do the same acceleration at lets say 70-80% throttle its much faster and much smoother (like the car is supposed to be). Works just fine until the car hits like 55mph, then power just cuts out.
If I'm revving the car in park or neutral its the same story. Works well at part throttle, but full throttle it misses as its revving up. To me this seems like 100% some kind of weird electrical issue. I'm having a tough time tracking it down though.
Things I have done:
1. At one point i had an VVTi OCV code for the rear bank, so I've replaced both OCV filters, and removed tested and replaced the RH OCV valve (they were both working to spec, but the rear one had a little more play in it).
2. No codes by OBDii scanning.
3. Cleaned MAF
4. Checked intake hoses for rips (there are none)
5. TPS seems to be working well based on OBDii diagnostics.
So among the other annoyances my 92 Ranger 4.0 auto has it has a hesitation before it starts spinning the tires under full throttle from a dead stop. It's the 4.0 automatic. I thought it would have more power than it actually does being use to a 2.5 auto. But this 92 4.0 runs and drives good. I've gotten it tuned up with new motorcraft wires, plugs, new coil, fuel filter, fuel pump assembly, fuel pressure regulator, air filter, idle air valve, new O2 sensor, new Dynomax muffler. I can't find any vacuum leaks. The engine idles slightly rough after you start it up from it sitting for a few hours, but quickly smooths out as soon as you start driving it.
This one here has no EGR. Transmission feels good, may have even been replaced by previous owner before we got it. It shifts good and the fluid is clean and the transmission is the cleanest part under the whole truck. No way of knowing for sure. The truck currently has 111,000 miles and I did all that stuff when we got it at 101,000 miles. So what could it be? I'm thinking a lazy injector or could it be the catalytic converter? Or could it be the throttle body? I know I once had a BBK throttle body on it and it made the world of difference in off the line power but it kept throwing too rich/lean condition and a TPS code so I had to return it. It sucks because it did wake up the motor. I returned it and since then the Check Engine Light hasn't come back on.
From a dead stop it takes a second to go and isn't super smooth, slightly jerky. Seems fine for all other gears, just from dead stop it isn't a smooth transition into 1st gear. Is this typical of DSG or no?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2003 Toyota Tundra V6. The problem I have with it is it hesitates. It does not happen ALL the time but it is very frequent. Sometimes it happens when I try to accelerate from a dead stop and other times while I am driving along (does not matter what speed). It will usually hesitate for a few seconds then everything is normal. The check engine light thus not come on.
I took it into Toyota. They duplicated the problem on the first test drive but did not have their equipment hooked up at the time. They kept the truck for over a week and finally got it to happen again. I guess they must have only been going on short test drives because it happens to me multiple times a day. They told me it was the throttle body and it needed to be replaced. My jaw hit the floor when they told me how much they charge to replace it. I ran this by a couple of friends who work on cars on the side and they said it sounded like the mass air flow sensor needed to be replaced. Since this was much cheaper than a throttle body, I replaced that. However, it did not solve the problem.
I want to understand this. If I am stopped, take hands off the wheel and do a jack rabbit start the wheel almost always turns right. Tried that on flat parking lots and roads cambered each way.
Tires are few months old, all suspension in order (reman rack and pinion + outer tie rods back in august). When cruising everything seems fine, the steering is centered and the car tracks straight.
I have noticed that my car occasionally seems to take off extremely slow from a dead stop? It almost seems as if the traction control is engaging, but I am not taking off fast, and it has also happened at low speeds (10-20 mph)???? It feels like I'm towing a damn boat behind me......
The TSB for the transmission was performed last year sometime.
I have a 2001 Camry LE, 4 cyl, 2.2 liter, automatic transmission, 163Kmiles on it.
I'm hearing what sounds to me rather like a grindy sound at around 1400-1600 RPM. Initially the Camry seemed to do it only after getting into 2nd gear at about 10MPH, but now i see that it is associated with RPM and not the gear so much (the noise is less frequent and less loud in 2nd and 3rd gear- not noticing it ever at above that). I should say that the Camry has been making lots of noises since a new exhaust was put in by a cheap Bosnian shop.
It seems to only make that particular grindy noise when starting from a dead stop, but not if i was already coasting at all. So far as i can tell it seems to only happen about half the time- if I'm accelerating very slowly it doesn't seem to happen much. If i start climbing a hill after a dead stop it seems to come on fairly reliably.
It does not seem to make the noise when passing down through 1600 RPM while slowing down or revving down.
When i started the Camry up today, the noise cropped up well before i got to 8MPH (where it typically shifts into 2nd gear). Which is to say the noise appeared before it even started to shift out of 1st gear.
If i stay in Drive or Reverse and apply the brake so as to not go anywhere, the noise generally starts around 1600RPM. Since the car isn't moving, i think this might rule out the transmission. I hope.
However when in Neutral or Park and i bring the engine up to 1600RPM and beyond, the noise does not appear. So that's perhaps not so good. Of course my car idles a lot better/smoother in N and P than it does in D or R. It's rather rough idling in D and R.
I'm hoping maybe it's a vibration issue- something like harmonic amplification- where something only rattles in a certain frequency range. I pulled up next to a brick wall, kept on the brake, went into D and got up near 1600RPM and the reflected noise does strike me more now as maybe being less a grindy noise and more of a rattly vibration.
The Bosnian shop who fixed up my exhaust were too quick to dismiss the noises i heard after they worked on it. I think maybe something is loose. I hope. (I could feel air leaving the flexpipe's woven area itself but don't know if this is normal.)
Going up hills increases the likelihood of the noise appearing (so i take this to be suggestive that it IS the transmission).
However on a flat road if i hit the gas to quickly get up to 1600RPM before I'm any where near auto shifting out of 1st gear, the noise also usually appears (so i take this to be suggestive that this is not the transmission). I've also gotten the noise to not appear until well into 2nd gear.
The fairly-repeatable noise appearing in the 1600RPM zone regardless of my gear position gives me some hope that the xmission is not the source of the noise. So on balance, i think there's some indication it's the transmission, but there's also evidence that the source is other than the transmission.
The noise does not occur in Neutral or Park while revving up to 1600RPM. But then too, the engine, exhaust and vibrations always seem considerably less in N or P, as opposed to being in Drive (or Reverse). Why my Camry is quieter and more smooth in N and P as opposed to D or R? In the latter two modes, i imagine the transmission is engaged? And that the transmission is unengaged in P and N? And would that make the car louder or vibrate more, at least under certain conditions? Is the engine under less load in P and N?
And are noises at certain RPMs in D or R, but not in P or N indicative of Transmission problems? I notice the shop overfilled the transmission fluid every time i've had it changed.
I have a 2010 Prius 5 and before I took it into service the car started acting weird. At slow speeds it would be in like ev mode and when I would push on the throttle it would kinda lag and almost feel like the car was gonna die out but it didn't. It would only happen once in awhile.
When I took it in for service at Toyota I mentioned the problem and they couldn't find anything wrong. So a few days later I was leaving Costco and as I got bout 10 feet away from the stall I was in the car did that same almost die out thing but the car started beeping and all the lights on the dash came on with the check hybrid system. Every light was on and stayed on tpms, traction control light ect. The car still ran but it ran like shit n the engine stay running the whole time. I managed to get home safely and took it into Toyota on a stand by appointment the next day.
3 days later they call saying the car is ready to pick up n the problem was the hybrid battery (240volt) was no good n was covered under the hybrid side of the warranty which is 8 years/180,000miles. Btw the car has 64,000 miles I maintain the car very well I did all fluid flushes at 50,000miles.
I have a 2009 XLE Camry which has been running smoothly for years. I failed to replace my old battery on-time and my drained battery surprised me on Christmas morning. I tried to jump-start it, long story short but something went wrong during jump-start and I lost all the lights on my dash (I can't say I didn't cross the cables but I'm pretty sure I was fully awake that morning).
I bought a new battery and replaced the old one, lights on dash are back on, the engine starts but there is no acceleration at all, the car just moves forward on D and backwards on R but no acceleration on gas pedal. I did some research and figured I might have blown a fuse, I opened my fuse box under my hood and found out my 10 Amp ETCS fuse is blown. I changed the fuse and now acceleration is back, I can drive the car but I get this 'VSC System Check' error on my dash, the 'Check Engine' light is also on and the AC fan is not working.
Could it be another blown fuse? Is this something I can fix by myself?
My wife left the lights on in the 2001 Camry and completely draining the battery. I tried to jump her but the car would not start (turns over great). Also the electrical system was strange in that the lights would not go off and other electrical items did not function. I disconnected the battery and fully recharged it and put it back on. I noticed that the "ALT" (100A) fusible link was blown and replaced it. Car still will not start (turns over great). The electrical problems appear fixed however the radio does not work. I tried to read the codes on the ODB and got "ERR". I checked all other fuses and they are good. I checked the pin-out voltage on the ODB port and was reading ~11.5V. I am wondering if I missed something like is the ECM bad? I can replace this myself for $150, but if I have it towed to a dealer it will cost me $800. Is there a way I can be sure that the ECM is bad, also are there other things to check that I may have missed. Also, when I turn the key to the "on" position, but do not start the car, the "Check engine" light does not illuminate.
View 5 Replies2005 Toyota Camry 3.3 automatic trans
No codes or lights currently on.
When driving I notice a shuddering feel when going highway speed plus. Feel the vibration when accelerating or maintaining speed.
I put the car on the lift and:
1st gear up to 55 no shudder
2nd gear up to 65 no shudder
3rd gear up to 60 to 80 shudder
Happens from here on in
The whole car vibrates. I do not feel any lack of performance when this happens. I don't feel hesitation or shift issues. Shifting is smooth. The engine does not move when putting in gear. However when I brake the whole thing jumps. This is while it is in the air.
Engine mounts, drive shaft, or cv transaxle?
So what I might have thought to be a transmission lag may be actually a dead zone in the pedal. When pressing the pedal from dead stop nothing happens until you press the pedal down further. Any way to reduce that or eliminate?
I'm referring to NA 2.5L engine with auto trans.
Toyota celica 2000 GT automatic, has a problem on cold start, especially when the temperature is below 32 degree Fahrenheit. The engine starts and runs roughly, but most electrical devices do not work, the dashboard and car windows are power off and I can't change the gear so it can not move. Only after warming up for about 10 minutes then the dashboard will work, then everything is fine till the next morning. I sent it to a small garage but they found nothing.
View 3 Replies2004 camry 4 cyl. turns over slow but starts. I checked battery voltage (car not running) it is 12.6 volts. when cranking in dropped to 6.??. The post terminals and cables looked ok but I did not disconnect or remove them to check. How can I verify if it is a bad battery or a bad starter.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 camry 4cyl my daughter was driving, she said it became difficult to get it into gear. The car does have 200,000 miles never had clutch problems. I can get it in gear when the engine is turned off. when it starts no gear can be engaged. I bleed the slave cylinder but no air . the slave master is not leaking. I turned the rod on slave master and when I started it the clutch was engaged. I am lost, I am used to working on old cars but I do not know if its a clutch that it needs to be replaced or what.
View 1 RepliesI rebuilt the engine on my toyota celica. After putting everything back together there are a few bizarre symptoms I am hoping to get sorted out.
1) It only starts with starting fluid, but once it starts it will run continuously without dying.
2) The temperature gauge goes up relatively quickly, and also moves with the throttle. For example if it is as the 1/3 level and I apply throttle it will bump up. It continues to jump along with throttle play.
3) When I remove the coolant sender and/or sensor plugs, the gauge still reads the same (is this normal).
4) The fans don't turn on unless I remove the sender cable (the one with one wire and not two)
If I understand correctly the sensor with one wire is the sender and the sensor with two wires is the temp sensor. I am having a hell of a time determining the difference. The one with a single wire contact is plugged into the thermostate cover/pipe. The one with two wires is in the thermostat housing.
Did I fry the ECU somehow? What is going on?
Every once in a while I'll go to start my car and it will stall right away. I'll try again and it will continue to stall. If I give it gas as soon as it starts I can keep it running. Yesterday it did this when I left from work. I held the rpm's at about 1500 and after about 10 seconds the rpm's jump about 200 or 300 and it idled. Sometimes it even idles really low. About 500 rpm. I've done plugs and wires (oem), air filter, PVC, ecu coolant temp sensor, fuel cleaners every 3 or 4 months. This has happened about 6 times in the passed 4 months. Runs great otherwise b
1998 Toyota Camry, 2.2l, Automatic, 125,000 miles
Purchased a 2009 XLE Toyota Camry V6 on 11/15/2011 with 13,562 miles. Noticed a vibration that starts around 65 mph, the faster you go the more noticeable the vibration. Made an appointment for the selling dealer to address the vibration. Dealer balanced four tires however this is what was noted on the invoice.'vibration from rear end at 65 and up' (my comments when dropping off the car). Comments from servicing dealer 'balance all 4 tires - may feel some vibration-tires choppy'. Where would you suggest I start? Who should I talk to at the dealer? Am I in a position to have them replace the tires? I have contacted the salesperson to keep her abreast of the situation. Current mileage 15,100.
Tire Make and Model: Sumitomo HTR T4 - the tires appear brand new.
Tire shop balanced (said the selling dealer did not do a very good job balancing the tires), rotated and performed an alignment. Tire shop stated the front passenger tire is cupped. Manager figures the previous owner did not do any maintenance on the OEM tires so the selling dealer installed new tires on the car due to premature wear. The vibration is better but still obvious and annoying. Said there is a possibility the cupping will go away as more miles are accrued on the tires, but until then the ride will not be smooth.
2009 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder. Our car got flooded last week. Water only got inside to the floor mats and we vacuumed it out. Now the car wont start. It starts and then dies right away. Only when I remove the key from ignition and restart it comes on and goes off again. I was thinking about changing out the ignition module with key. Checked all fuses and they are OK.
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