Toyota - Camry :: Heated O2 Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 Is Failing
Nov 20, 2014
I just had an OBD code pulled on my 2010 Camry and it turns out that my Heated O2 sensor for Bank 1 Sensor 2 is failing. I'd rather do this myself if I can but I can't figure out where this thing is. Is this something I can access myself and swap out? Or does this need to be fixed by a mechanic?
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I own a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage with about 190,000 miles on it. The engine light has started coming on and I get three codes:
P0170 Fuel Trim Bank 1P0136 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
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I have a P0171 code (lean bank 1 sensor 1) on my 2002 toyota camry 4 cylinder. I don't have any other codes except for an unrelated P1780 neutral safety switch code. It has had both codes for over a year.
I have replaced the fuel filter, the upstream o2 sensor, and the PCV valve. I also cleaned the MAF sensor. The mechanic performed a smoke test and found no vacuum leaks. Did a fuel pressure test and it's normal. Mechanic thought it would be fuel pressure because the car starts a bit slow when cold, but nope. The car runs great and still gets great gas mileage. I've never experienced a misfire in my 12 years of owning the car. I am asking because I am at a loss as to what it could be.
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My 1999 Camry - 4 cyc has a trouble code of P0136. Auto Zone told me it is a defective bank 1 sensor 2. As per the repair manual, the front passenger seat has to be removed to get to the sensor's electrical connector but an internet video shows that the driver seat has to be removed. Replacing the heated bank 1 sensor 2 on a Camry before?
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I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla 1.8L, the base model.
I recently had a check engine light, VSC off light (blinking) and traction control light come on. I took it to Autozone and had a p0037 code ring up for a new Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor (downstream). I believe I have found the correct sensor (located under car, approximately near drivers seat) and it looks simple to replace, aside from the fact that the wires go through the car body.
Can confirm that I have located the correct sensor? And if so, what is the best way to get to where the wires connect?
Is it located under the drivers seat? What should I do about the rubber grommet located under the car where the wires appear to pass through?
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1999 Ranger 4x4 4.0 - P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
I have replaced the 02 Sensor, Passenger Side (Pre-Cat), with a Motorcraft DY831...
I reset the Check Engine fault codes, and took it out for a 50 mile journey... Check Engine light is back on, with the same exact code... What next?
I understand that it may be a fuse, and/or it may be a short in the wiring... Exactly how to test the wiring from the connector at the 02 Sensor all the way back to wherever I need to test?
I really need detailed directions, like wire colors, voltage required, or ohms, or whatever is included in this process...
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The service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...
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So I just replace my Cat. Converter with all new sensors in them. I just replaced my spark plugs. (I'm knocking out these check engine light problems) and I think I'm getting close to the root as to why these other parts went bad. Why my o2 sensor would be stuck on "lean" ....
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My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
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Wife has a 08 solara 2.4 auto. Check engine light is on for bad knock sensor in bank 1. Now car is not pulling itself, it takes off fine then shifts and falls on its face, I think its missing 2nd and going to 3rd. It is also not shifting into 5th so its staying in 4th and using a lot of gas. I tried manually shifting but it still goes to 3rd and will not go to 5th. I have been told this knock sensor could be causing it all. Cant clear code, I hit clear but nothing happens. We don't have a lot of money to pay the Toyota dealer to fix it and I can do all the work but they wont even show me where the knock sensor is.
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2001 1.8T Wolfsburg
Started it this evening and went to the store, on my way there the car was right messed up. No lights, wouldn't go over 500 rpm (no throttle response), eventually was stuck on the side of the road. Reset my throttle back to OEM and everything went back to normal, car hasn't shown any trouble since but it's only been a couple hours. I don't want to end up stranded somewhere so I'm wondering if my computer is possibly failing or should I try replacing the throttle body if it does it again?
Car is not chipped and was OEM throttle before (to my knowledge).
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My Phaeton is experiencing issues with the temp sensor. After running the car for a while, then a brief stop (10 minutes or less) it refuses to start. (It cranks but does not start) After a while, it starts fine. No check engine light comes up.
A quick Vagcom read (not the dealer's Vagcom) does show the temperature sensor is reading really low temperatures where it shouldn't. We think this temp sensor gone awry is messing with the fuel mix.
So in the parts book, we see only one temp sensor coming off the radiator, is this a 'easy' fix or do I need the dealer involved?
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Got a code for knock sensor bank one however this is the wiring going to it. Could it be throwing the code simply because the wire is cut or do i need a new sensor maybe too?
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I am a new member and have a question regarding PO138 Bank 1 sensor2.
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My daughter has a Toyota Camry which is a great car. She is having problems with it surging lately and reading the code it said the O2 sensor was malfunctioning. We replaced it and it is running better but now it's surging around 1.000 rpm, the car is bucking and being a pain. Having a GM with the same problem I changed out the throttle position sensor and it worked a bit but it's still doing it.
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I have a 2011 toyota camry. 3.5L v6. I have code p0157. I know my car has 4 o2 sensors, but I am not sure which one to buy. Where this o2 sensor is located, and which one to purchase. A part number would be very useful.
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The computer is returning P1379 camshaft position sensor. Where is this sensor located on a 2002 Toyota Camry 2.4L and how easy would you rate the job of replacing it?
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I own a 2000 Toyota Camry that was given to me by my father. The check engine light illuminated last year so I brought the car in to my mechanic. He said it was the o2 sensor and changed it. That lasted about a month , and the light went on again. This time it had to do with some valves that get stuck open (or closed) but also had to do with the amount of oxygen that goes into the carburetor . I asked my Dad if he had this problem, and he told me that the engine light was illuminated often, that he had brought the car in about 6 times, but nothing was found. Previously I owned a 1998 Camry, and had the same problem; the check engine light illuminates, the diagnosis is the oxygen sensor, that gets changed, the light goes on again, this valve thing gets changed but the light goes on again in a month. I can't get the car inspected with the engine light illuminated. The light always goes back on but nothing else is found wrong with the vehicle. I really know nothing about cars.
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My engine light just went on and the fault codes are:
P0138 -PowerTrain (O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0607 - PowerTrain Control Module Performance
I have just bought Denso 234-4305 Rear Sensor but I was wondering if there are any guides to show where it's located?
The only guides I found is for the 9th Gen Corolla.
The Car has 88k miles on it so I guess it's outside the emissions warranty. Thus what is the price of a new ECU just in case that's the problem?
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Got the CEL Bank 1 Sensor 2 heater circuit fault. Is that the rear right post-cat oxygen sensor? What is correct part number or possibly a link? 2002 2.8l Passat V6...
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Wife's 04 Escape threw the PO136 code for bank 1 sensor 2 02 sensor. Replaced it and light is off. Not convinced something else isn't causing it.
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