Lately, while cruising at around 60 (2000RPM), my '89 Camry (135K) will for a moment or two downshift, revving the engine to around 3000, then shift back into high. This happens on level stretches or sometimes even on downhills.
View 5 RepliesMy 2000 Toyota Sienna has been making some concerning noises. It makes a periodic grinding noise, the period is related to the wheel speed...i.e. the noise happens once each time the wheel goes around. I can hear it while I drive, and it's even louder when I roll down the windows. The weird thing is that the noise stops when I hit either the breaks or the gas. First mechanic says that the wheel bearings are shot, and the second says they're fine. There is no "jet engine taking off" noise that I am told is typical of shot bearings, but there is a wump-wump-wump noise at higher speeds.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Corolla CE 4-spd auto and I've asked this question from several mechanics and they all say they same: leave it in drive.
My issue is that during my rush hour commute, I'm in a lot of bumper to bumper traffic and the maximum speed is 15mph with a lot of stops. During this time, my transmission is literally switching from 1st to 2nd and then downshifting again hundreds of times. Isn't it better to just keep it in 1st gear? The solenoids are constantly firing and gears are switching causing more wear/tear. It's the same as putting the gear in 1st when going down hill so why do mechanics not recommend this?
My camry with 87,00 miles stalls when I take my foot off the break at stoplights. Three certified Toyota mechanics say they can't fix it until it happens again. No one is interested in checking for clogged sensors.
View 2 RepliesMy 2000 v6 Toyota Camry has a very strong gas smell that makes my eyes water on start up. It only happens once in a while(can go for weeks with no smell) but it is actually scary when it happens and people near the car sometimes comment on the smell too. I have had my mechanic look at it but it hasn't happened while it was at the shop. What could be wrong?
View 2 RepliesWhen I am driving along in my 2000 Toyota Camry 6 cylinder, and my foot is on the gas, my car slows down by itself. When this happens it sounds like gears are changing or like when you run out of gas, (the car is automatic and the gas tank full). After this happens the car speeds up again.
View 8 RepliesI just bought a 2000 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder with 150K miles. It drove great for a week. Now it wants to cut off when I'm at a stoplight or stop sign. When I press the gas there is no acceleration and very sluggish. This is when it wants to cut off and does about half the time. At normal driving speeds it drives great. The Check engine light also came on. Advance Auto Parts store read the codes and it's P440, p441, p446 and P106. All have to do with evaporative emission control.
View 3 RepliesToyota Camry 2000 , 195,000 miles
Last couple of months or so, my vehicle would intermittently stop accelerating, especially when climbing hills. A couple of days ago, the vehicle is completely unresponsive when pressing down on the gas. The vehicle revs, but won't go forward. It will only go in reverse. Everything else is working in the vehicle.
I went ahead and put about a half quart of transmission fluid. Still nothing.
Other information: the vehicle has been leaking engine oil and transmission fluid for the last several months.
I have a 2000 Toyota Camry that has a unique problem. The Check Engine light NEVER comes on even when first starting the car. I have access to a scanner and know that the car periodically throws a catalyst code but the light never comes on. I just assumed that the bulb was burned out.
Today while solving a non-working clock issue I had to take the instrument cluster to get to the clock. While I had it out I decided to check the Check Engine Light bulb. It looked fine so I took I replaced it with a bulb that I knew worked fine. Again, nothing. The bulb doesn't light at all. About 4 weeks ago my timing belt broke while driving (non-interference motor) and it threw a code for the camshaft position sensor but again the light never came on.
Why the light never comes on?
My 2000 Toyota Camry is making lots of noise.My mechanic says, the exhaust is leaking and costs $566. Is this something I should change or can go on without any repairs.
View 3 RepliesHow difficult is it to remove and install a heater core on a 2000 Toyota Camry with 4 cyc ?
View 18 Replies2000 Toyota Camry le v6 .... When I first start my car it runs rough after about 5 to 10 minutes it runs fine. I have no check engine light on. I used sea foam and the problem went away for a couple weeks then it came back. I have about 30k on my spark plugs.
View 10 RepliesI've got a 2000 Toyota Camry with about 120,000 miles on it. We bought it used in 2012 and it's been a great car except it makes a wha-wha-wha noise when driving. The sound speeds up as the car speeds up and becomes a whine at highway speed. The noise can be heard from both outside and inside the car and sounds like it is coming from the front of the car. About a year ago I took it to a mechanic and he said that he drove it as did another mechanic in the shop and they couldn't even hear the noise. The noise now seems to be getting louder. I think it is probably a wheel bearing and it is time to take it to a different mechanic.
View 4 RepliesA couple days ago I saw that my Toyota Camry was overheating, the gauge was going about 3/4s of the way and then returning to normal. I had then replaced the T-stat but noticed the fans were not running, so I replaced the relay as it tested bad. The fans then started to work when the A/C was turned on, but I noticed the car was still going 3/4s of the way then returning to normal.
So, I took it to a mechanic and looked for his opinion on it, he tested it and said that everything is working fine and when the engine gets hot enough the fans kick on, bit the gauge still hits 3/4s hot and then returns to normal. My mechanic said that he has seen this before in other car models and that everything is working as intended. I was just wondering if this is a common occurrence with some cars? Or should I look for other possible problems? I've never personally owned a car that looked like it was overheating then quickly corrected itself.
2007 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl, automatic transmission, 147k miles. Was driving ab 60mph and slowing down as I approached a red light. Light turned green but car suddenly would not accelerate above about 20mph or 2000 rpm - ran fine as long as I stayed under 20, but when I tried to accelerate beyond that it started lurching like crazy and wouldn't accelerate. Pulled into a gas station and let it idle for a few mins while I checked the transmission fluid (has had a slow leak but I have been staying pretty on top of the fluid levels). Color and smell of the fluid was fine, but level was just a little low so I added some more fluid and let it cycle thru for a few minutes. Managed to get it home by staying under 20mph. Turned it off and basically ignored it for about 10 days due to being swamped at work. Went to start it up last night and the engine cranks but won't turn over and start. Lights, etc. all work. What gives? Praying this is not a transmission issue.
View 8 RepliesMy 2000 Toyota Camry V6 died while driving the other day. At the shop they were able to start it but said it was misfiring but it didn't cut off when they were driving it. They recommended a tune-up to replace spark plugs and "wires" but admitted they weren't sure what the problem was. I haven't had a tune-up in awhile, actually not sure when the last time I had one was (if ever!). Would this cause it to die while driving?
Should I invest in a tune-up even if it doesn't fix the problem?The battery is about 3 months old. The master and slave cylinder were recently replaced (about 6 months ago), timing belt and water pump and hoses were replaced a couple of years ago.I have high miles, about 260,000 and love this car and have needed very little work and has been a very reliable car. Would love to continue driving it!!
I have a 2000 Toyota Camry CE (2.2L/V4) w/ 130,000 miles on it. Just recently I have been experiencing a stalling issue after driving on the highway for 19 miles (or 20 minutes) at a speed greater than 65 mph. As soon as I exit and take my foot off the gas the car will stall as if I just turned the key in the off position. After I pull over, turn the key in the off position and wait a minute or two, the car start right up as if nothing happening. The idle seems to be ?normal?. The engine light does not come on when this happens.
If I feel the car may stall when still on the highway after slowing down, I can shift the car into neutral and hold the idle speed high enough to continue driving. However the car will eventually stall. But again and I restart it and be on my merry way without incident. I have try switching to high octane gas, but that did not work. If I disconnect the battery for a few hours the computer reboots itself and it will take a few more trips at high speeds for this issue to occur again. I have put in a fuel injector cleaner and cleaned the butterfly value (air intake). I own an Auto Xray code scanner; however it is not showing any error codes. What this issue may be?
At least that's when I notice it,... right in that range, seems the car hesitates and then starts up again and hesitates,... and you can see the tachometer go up to around 2 k and then down to 1600 rpm,.. but I am not accelerating with the gas peddle. Thoughts on what is causing this..
View 2 RepliesJust bought a 2000 passat v6. I have owned a 99 passat 1.8t for 5 years and has had little to no problems. When I first was driving my newer v6 I noticed that when im downshifting from 3rd to second especially it has shaking feeling in the front end. Wasn't sure if this was a transmission problem or an axle problem.
View 14 RepliesMy nice little 2002 GL 1.6 has 160K+ on it. Lately, when I come to a stop, I get a thump when she downshifts. I don't know which gear exactly, but it happens when the car reaches 10 MPH and below, so maybe when it goes into first? It is just as the car stops, it seems.
More recently, it seems as if when I get just about stopped, it feels as if she completely disengages from drive and goes into neutral. But it doesn't actually do that, she is fine when I take off. She upshifts just fine, it's just that last little bit when coming to a stop.
I have never had the transmission messed with very much, but I know it was serviced a few years ago. I did add a little fluid a few weeks ago after I checked it, and I was very careful to purchase the exact correct fluid.
The a/c compressor is the nearest thing to the medium slow leak. It's up against the left upper side of the oil pan, near the timing belt cover. It appears red on the oil pan but more yellow color on the ground. There are no power steering hoses and the pwr steering pump is further back (and tho a bit wet, it's not leaking) I drove 6-8 mile this morning w no a/c to see if it would still leak...and it did. The power steering resevoir doesn't seem to be going down. Whata ya recon ? bad compressor ?
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