I was trying to get my power windows on my 99 camry to work, so I tried switching some relays to see if this was the problem. I left the horn one out due to breaking it. The relays are not labeled other than the starter one. Anyway, my car will crank but not start. Acts like the timing is out. That belt was replaced 19000 miles ago...
View 1 RepliesI know the alternator needs replacing but why are the fan relays not working correctly. Also, the top radiator hose is really hot? I replaced the thermostat as well as the coolant reservoir? I also replaced a couple of the fan relays from my older wrecked Camry. Would the noisy alt that is going out have something to do w/the fans and fan relays not working properly?
View 6 Replies2001 Camry 4 cylinder 86000 miles. I lubricated the springs, mechanism, and cables under the hood and under the dashboard.Gas pedal is only sticky sometimes, usually when pulling away from a red light where the engine speed drops to idle for a couple minutes. Idle is smooth, no check engine light.Any tricks or tips to fix it? Problem started maybe 2 weeks ago. We have had nice warm weather so I don't think it's weather related. All parts are clean and rust-free.
View 11 RepliesWent on a long drive today. 800+ miles. Stopped to fill up around 500 in. Attempted to turn the car back on and it would just crank and not start. This has actually been ongoing for the past 2 years, but only when I take long trips like these. Got it to start after putting my foot on the pedal a little bit, but would idle roughly and die shortly after. Got it going again, and it ran fine once I started going after that.
Decided to check my scangauge, and it had a pending code of P2196. From what I understand according to AllData, the O2 sensor is running rich, which seems odd to me as I'm not burning more gas than usual (Achieved 33mpg according to hand calculations).
Starting to bug me that it's doing this. Car has 113k miles. All maintenance is caught up on the car. Battery is 3 years old (Not sure if that's a factor at all in this).
I have 04 6.0 with 247,000 on it. Just rebuilt all 8 injectors 3 months ago been running great since then. Jump into my truck yesterday morning go to turn the key over and all the lights on the dash came on for a second then they were off same with the fuel pump I only heard it for a second before turning off. The truck won't crank at all. My windows work, radio works and cab lights work. My headlights are out and my cab charm is not making any sound. I've check all my relays and fuses nothing bad there I've also replace my ignition switch and the ignition it self is good. I'm think it's a bad ground some where I just need finding the right one.
View 14 RepliesI get a call from my mother saying their 1994 Toyota Camry 2.2L car won't start. I went over there today and the first thing I check was the spark. I hooked my spark tester and had my dad crank the engine over. No spark. So I removed the distributor cap and tested the resistance on the primary and secondary sides of the coil. The secondary side was low. So I went and got a new coil, installed it and it still wouldn't start. I checked the spark again and it had spark, but still wouldn't start. I then proceeded to check the fuel pressure. I hooked up my pressure tester to fuel filter, with the included adapter, and had my dad turn the ignition switch to ON position. No pressure. Then I had him try and start the engine, the pressure jumped up to 41 PSI. I then sprayed a little gas into the throttle and the engine would try to start. I'm stuck.
View 5 RepliesA month or two ago I noticed my car starting to turn over a bit slower. Then finally woke to car that would not start. I tapped on the starter and it turned over. I took the car to local AutoZone store, tested the electrical system while the car was running...Starter - Good, Alternator - Good, Battery had a few dead cells. I also took out the alternator and starter to have them bench tested. Both passed. So I put everything back and got a new battery. Seemed to have fixed the problem for a couple weeks. Then today go out to start the car and the same thing. Car won't turn over...pop the hood a little tap on the starter and it turns over just fine. Same cycle all day...Turn off car, then wont turn over unless I tap the starter. So I take it out again, and take it to the local auto store...Starter passes again.
It seems like it must be the Starter if the tap works, but I thought the bench tests were pretty accurate? All the cables and connectors look to be in really good shape and if it were the Starter Relay, Alternator, or Battery I wouldn't think that tapping the Starter would make any difference.
A couple of weeks ago there was a discussion about a car that smoked badly when it started. The boys recommended trying some oil additive that might avoid a ring job. What this product was?
View 1 RepliesI have had no problems with my Camry until one day it didn't crank or start. I first thought either battery or starter. Well the battery tested at 100%, alternator.
View 2 RepliesMy 2008 camry with 84000 miles is starting to use a quart of oil every 3,000 miles. Inam told that this is the beginning of the end. Can't I just keep adding oil? Or do I really need a new car/engine?
View 19 RepliesI have 2006 - Toyota Camry LE and its AC light starts blinking in few seconds as soon as I start it. What could possibly be the cause of this issue?
I searched for Magnetic clutch relay for 2006 Camry, but could not find any in Auto parts dealer. Can it be Cabin filter?
Where can be the issue and where can I find the correct part?
2003 Camry with 141,000 miles. Last 3 months when I start it in the morning, I can see white/gray smoke coming from exhaust for about 20 seconds, then it ends. Car is running no differently ... I'm wondering if it's a PVC or there is an issues with transmission or antifreeze getting into engine via some sort of gasket leak.
View 4 RepliesA 2007 Toyota Camry 2.4 was brought into the shop I work at smoking badly and running terrible. The car had been run hot because the radiator was busted and it blew the head gasket. So I pulled the head and sent if off to the machine shop to have it checked. They said it was badly warped across three cylinder and they resurfaced it.
Now I have everything re assembled, but it simply will not start. All the timing marks on the timing chain line up where they should be. All four coils are firing. Injectors wires pulse noid lights. A few times it has hit and sputtered like it was trying to start but never successfully does.
Just bought for around town. Problem with starting. Turn ignition and sometimes hear grind. Second try in neutral and she starts right up. I don't know if it's problem with key ignition/coil, or the starter.
Also need to convert a/c, fan ok but no cooling. Is this major cost to convert?
I've a 2007 Toyota Camry (LE 2.4 L 4-cylinder). Couple of days ago I tried to start the car and I heard this banging/grunting sound as I started the car. And, after the car started the engine is running much louder. Oddly enough when I got out of the car and opened the hood the noise didn't seem that loud. In other words, it sounds louder from inside the car than standing outside with the hood open.
Before all this, the engine ran very smoothly and very quite. Here is a link for two audio files that captures the sounds. Note that I recorded these two clips from inside the car.
First when is when I'm starting the engine (the sound can be heard at around 6-7 seconds): [URL] ....
Second is when the engine is running loud (I'm not driving the car...just sitting there letting the engine run): [URL] ....
Camry 2002 LE (4 cyl Auto), 140K mi
This morning, for the first time I can recall, the car would not start right away. Had been sitting in the garage for 2+ days. Starter would crank just fine, but engine would not fire. No lites were left on overnite. Finally (after about 6+ attempts), engine started -- runs fine now.
Took it to TOY dealer. Their diagnosis: weak battery, alternator low output.Happy, had recently (6 mos) replaced battery after 4 years of use, so got a new battery N/C.TOY ran a charging system check and it shows "Alternator Condition: OK" (midway between shitty and great I recall).
Funny, but my first thought when it would not start was the fuel system (fuel pump) or dirty ignitors. I did ask my regular mechanic for an opinion, and he thinks it might indeed be the fuel pump -- perhaps a clogged filter.
Car wouldn't start the other morning and figured a dead battery but found it to be charged. Things are going haywire in the car lights blinking,relays clicking etc when i try to start it. Car was acting fine just a day prior and gave no indication that something was wrong. It's a 93 3.0 v6. I'm gonna pull the starter and check the wiring before i write it off.
View 5 RepliesI have an '02 Camry with 82,000 miles. I recently noticed a clicking from the front left wheel starting at 68-70 mph. The click varies in frequency with slight bumps in the road. It seems to stop if I touch the brakes, and it might get less if the road turns enough to increase the G force (not too many times on highway going this speed on a curvy road, so I'm not sure.) It never happens under 65 mph.
We recently had local flooding and I drove through about 8 inches of water. The noise was a few days later in dry weather at 80 degrees. It did not occur when the car was starting off cool, but not until I was driving for about 5-10 minutes. The tire and wheel look OK, but it has not been on a lift nor have I been to a mechanic yet. I don't want to get talked into expensive repairs that I don't need, but I don't want to put off something now that is dangerous or will turn into a bigger expense later.
So i drive a 2001 F150 4.6L and over the last couple of years it has started pulling down and shaking heavily. I have taken it to mechanics and it always gave a code as a miss. well we replaced the coils and the plugs and of course it still has the problem. finally we did a compression test and it shows that #3 and #5 have no compression and the mechanic said it was either a blown head gasket, a valve or a cracked head. it has 230K miles on it so i was wondering what your thoughts on it were and also if it would be cheaper just to swap the motor.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Corolla CE with 48k miles that I bought 2 months ago. I took it in for an alignment and balance because it was pulling to one side and the steering shakes slightly at 70mph.
The before measurements was this:Left Front:Camber: 0.0Caster: 1.2Toe: 0.17
Right Front:Camber: -0.7Caster: 1.6Toe: 0.28
Front Total Toe: 0.45Steer Ahead: -0.06
Rear Left:Camber: -1.0Toe: 0.50
Rear Right:Camber -0.7Toe:-0.04
Rear Tota
My 20th has been having a starting issue and I've honestly tried everything I can think of, this issue just randomly started one day the car will not start on first crank it starts second or third every time. After it's started and running it runs perfect its just getting it started.
I've replaced the Crankshaft sensor, Camshaft sensor, Coolant temp sensor, the car has had new injectors (440) installed about two months ago, has the new battery. My father is a mechanic and he has also tried everything he knows to do and we asked our local VW specialist and he said to try the things we have already did. Ran codes when the issue started and it only came up with camshaft sensor and we replaced that and cleared the code still nothing. Once this issue started we parked the car and started troubleshooting and the oil was low? even though I know before the issue started it was good and full. the car has a stage two intronic tune, 440 injectors, secondary air delete and all and a shaved and partially tucked bay, there are no resistors is the open unused sensors.