Toyota - Camry :: Burning Smell Especially When Car Is Low On Oil
Feb 5, 2011
I have a 96 camry that has a minor oil leak. I have taken it in to get checked, and the mechanic told us that as long as I'm willing to keep putting oil in it every month, I don't have to fix anything. However, lately the car has been making a burning smell, especially when I turn on the heater, and when the car is low on oil. Also, my oil cap has some yellow gunk on it. I'm concerned that this means water is mixing with my oil.
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I have a 4 cyl 2000 camry. I notice the smell of burning oil when I shut off the car and while I'm driving. There is no black smoke coming from the tail pipe and it uses minimal oil. I removed the spark plugs and found oil on the threads of spark plug # 2, but not on the electrode. What's up?
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Yesterday I made a 3 hour round trip with my car, and on the last leg coming back into town, I noticed my check engine light came on, and I saw white smoke coming from underneath the hood of my car, along with a burning smell. Luckily I was able to make it home just fine. I've googled this issue, some people have suggested coolant leak.
Also, I checked the oil levels today and they appeared to be slightly below the lowest level tick, which could be why it was having issues yesterday. Last time I got an oil change was November of 2015. I'm surprised it's this low considering I normally don't commute farther than a couple miles each day.
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After my Camry XLE V6 warms up to temp it starts to smell like burning rubber - my wife states that it smells like burnt popcorn. I bought the car and I believe it had been driven for quite some time with a bad upstream rear O2 sensor - when I hooked up my scan tool to it, it showed as a bad o2 and miss on #3 and #6 cylinders - I replaced the coil pack feeding #3 and #6 and runs smooth - put a Denso OEM o2 sensor on the rear and still has a miss code but not an emissions code - still smells like burning rubber - I figured the smell was coming from the bad o2 and it running bad AF mixtures.
I figure that if the catalytic converter was plugged or needed replaced that I would get a code for it. I noticed a bit of oil around the valve cover gaskets so I gave them about a 10th of a turn down to see if it would stop the leak and steam cleaned the oil off the motor - still smells of burning rubber - car has never had the timing changed or drive belts for that matter. Drive belts look good, I will have them changed the next time serviced but I'm not sure about the timing belt...car has 218,000 miles but looks great - serviced regularly - bought from my dad and his cars last forever - what this could be?
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While driving my toyota corolla 2006, I smelled a burning smell and saw a small amount of smoke for about 30 seconds coming out right by the windshield wiper, this happened twice within an hour period.What could this be?
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I have a 2001 Toyota Avalon with 139,000 miles and runs excellent. I recently just got an oil change and it smells like something is burning. More of like a burning rubber smell. I know my car does not have an oil leak but what else could it be. I plan to take it out of town very soon. Should I not take it anymore? Also, when my A/C is on and I'm sitting idle it sounds like my car wants to turn off every time the the a/c kicks on but it doesn't. My RPM'S are fine. (600-700).
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Noticed a smell like rubber burning about 40 minutes into driving my car today. When I turned off the heater it went away. What this may be? Possibly the last legs of my heater melting away?
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1992 toyota previa Le.. This safe too be driven I bough as second car drive but now I'm scared be driven hear that may caught fire what do need get fixed on it stop dripping is valve cover gaskets I was toll were replace two yrs. ago I don't know what need be replace is valve covers,or O-ring and disturber assembly or what is the issue? I'm at end my rope it fun drive don't want sell it off I payed $1,000 for month ago was what should I do should sell it or try fix just want oil stay in engine and stop dripping and burn oil smell too stop
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My mechanic cannot figure out what's wrong with my car My car is a manual trans 1996 Toyota Corolla with almost 154K miles. I had the oil changed two weeks ago (about 1000 miles with my commute), and at that time, I let my mechanic know that it's been losing oil and so check it over. At that time, he changed the oil, cleaned the engine, and added a dye to the oil to show up any leaks.
I took it in this past Thursday for him to locate the leaking, and the mechanic let me know that 1) It came in mostly dry (no oil), 2) there was no visible leaking except for a seepage around the oil pan, which he says could not account for the loss of 4 quarts of oil in two weeks, and 3) it's not burning it out in the exhaust system.
A bit of the history of the car. I got it when it was at 59K, used, and there were a number of things wrong with it that I didn't discover until later, such as that no maintenance had been done to it at all in the 60K someone else had owned it. It came to me needing a timing belt, brakes, and an engine and radiator flush (the radiator fluid was brown instead of green).
At one point at around 70K, as a stupid teenager, I did let it run dry. The oil light came on, I panicked, shut it off, dumped in two quarts (which brought it to full on the dipstick, which I thought was weird), and took it straight for an oil change, where they told me it was dry, which was odd, because I'd just put 2 quarts in it.
After that, there were no issues until it hit about 120K. At that point, I started smelling burning oil and there was smoke coming from under my hood, so I towed it to my mechanic at the time. He replaced the valve cover gasket, the rear main seal, and the head gasket (with engine block machining and all). That more or less cleared the problem up, but then I took it across the country on a 3K road trip, and it ended up accidentally running dry again. Oil light came on, I shut it off, dumped in oil, took it for a lube job.
Since that time, it's been occasionally throwing me an oil light when I go downhill (I figure that this is because it's low but not out, and the change in pitch reduces the pressure?). Each time it does this, I've shut it off, coasted to a stop, dumped in 2 quarts (which brings it to full on the stick), and gone on, berating myself. These times have become more frequent, however, even though I now check the oil regularly.
So before I endure the deserved lectures about being dumb, yes, I blame myself, but regardless of my lazy maintenance, it's becoming ridiculous. My car is now finding a way to lose a gallon of oil over the course of 1000 miles, with no discernible leak or consumption.
Also, why my oil light comes on when it's only 2 quarts down on the stick sometimes, and then sometimes goes almost dry without throwing the oil light? I just got it back with the oil topped up, more dye in the engine, and instead of going for 2 weeks, I'm going for 1 week to see if maybe he can catch it in the act of learning this magic trick of vanishing oil.
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2004 V6 XLE Power Steering Leak *pics* ... The problem now? Car doesn't start. I've done all the 'usual' checks and I am totally baffled.
So I was dropping my friends off at night. When I had the car in reverse to get out of the parking spot, turned off my AC and drove to park my car on the road. My ears heard something 'different' from my engine, like a 'wurrrrr' noise. I first thought it was my power steering pump was making noise (see my previous thread why). I pulled on the side of the road this is what happened.
I open my hood to determined my fluid for PS was OK. I noticed a 'burning' smell like something rubber was burning or metal getting super hot. I turned my car off and restarted the engine. The car cranked but it crank very slowly, lights dim and it started almost like a weak battery. Maybe battery? The 'wurrr'/buzz noise was coming from the belts area and was RPM related. Car did rev fine without any hesitation. [URL] ....
As I had the car on for a minute to take a video (below), I was in my car when I noticed light smoke coming from the right side (drive belt) area. I immediately turned off my car and attempted to see where the smoke was coming from.
After 10 minutes, I wanted to see if it would still start. Nope. Just rapid clicking of starter (See : [URL] ....)
It was dark so I couldn't do much (iPhone w/ flash light app), but I did check all what I could above and below the engine. I didn't see any burn wires or grounding either. So I was thinking...
-If AC or Alternator seized up/locked up, the car would still start but belts would burn, right? Same with power steering?
-Timing belt torn or tensioner sized? If belt torn, engine would crank freely though? Tensioner would usually just make a bad noise, right? Wouldn't really account for the 'weak' starting prior I think?
-Electrical problem such as a short within alternator/ac compressor....
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Lately my 2002 v6 has been smelling like it's burning oil from under the hood. Around the front exhaust manifold, there's a wet black "powder" type substance. Oil levels are fine and the car has also been driving without any issues. The car hasn't overheated but then again, I live in NJ where the temperatures don't go above 35F.
I'll be posting a picture tomorrow.
The car has 144k and the timing belt, water pump, spark plugs were done at 120k.
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117,000 miles, 1 previous corporate car owner, 30 day warrant. Bought 1 week ago, odor of burnt electrical. Seems to be stronger in the back inside.
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My girlfriend has a 2001 Toyota Solara. I've been driving it, infrequently, for about 3 years, and while it's an older car, I never had any problems engaging the clutch. My girlfriend also did not have any issues with the car. I don't have a lot of experience with manual transmissions.
Recently, we let our friend use it for the day. I dropped the car off at his place and did not notice anything wrong with it. The next day, I got a call from my friend who said that the car was emitting a weird smell and that he was having a hard time engaging the clutch. By the end of the day, he could no longer engage the clutch and had to leave it on the side of the road.
We got it towed to a garage, and when they looked at it, they said the clutch was totally burned out. My friend insists that he has plenty of experience driving with a manual transmission and that there must have been a problem with the clutch before we gave him the car. Is this possible? It seems unlikely to me, as neither my girlfriend nor I had any problems with the car. It's not like we were struggling to engage the clutch- it was fine when I dropped it off, and then the next day it's totally burned out.
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Our 2002 Camry SE V6 incurs a burning odor through the HVAC system after braking from moderate or higher speeds (at low speeds, this does not happen). It can last for a few seconds or a few minutes and then goes away (it does not happen while in motion). I cannot smell anything outside the car.
The car was inspected & serviced two months ago with no issues found. The front valve cover was replaced about a year ago but the back valve cover was OK to leave as is.
I would want to say it is the brakes or the snow tires causing the odor but it is strange it only smells inside the car.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry with 110,000 miles that is burning oil too fast. A farm mechanic told me I should put thicker oil in it- straight SAE 30. It is a 4 cyl, 2.4 L Automatic. I had a oil and filter change less than 2 months ago, have driven maybe 2,000 miles. The oil is below the first dot. The manufacturer says to put 5W 20 oil in. I live in central North Carolina, so below freezing temperatures aren’t an issue. Last oil and filter change, they checked for leaks and they said it was clean underneath with none. Also, is it possible the car is burning the oil fast because I live in a warmer climate and I’m using the thinner oil? Is it ok to put the thicker straight SAE 30 oil in it? If yes, can I add it to what’s already there (5w 20)?
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry. It had been burning gas, losing powere, white smoke smoking excessively through the tailpipe, and idling extremely rough, sometimes to the point of dying. It ran ok at highway speeds, but terrible everywhere else. We figured that it was getting moisture into the engine. We essentially did an upper engine overhaul, replacing gaskets and parts as necessary. It ran fine after this, and then three weeks later, started having the same symptoms. I found gas in the oil, changed oil, which turned it to run smoother, but still smoked and died at idle. I found out the clutch fan barely blows. I can't afford to get an actual mechanic involved, but I don't know where to look next.
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My 2000 v6 Toyota Camry has a very strong gas smell that makes my eyes water on start up. It only happens once in a while(can go for weeks with no smell) but it is actually scary when it happens and people near the car sometimes comment on the smell too. I have had my mechanic look at it but it hasn't happened while it was at the shop. What could be wrong?
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I have a 1993 Camry 4 Cylinder Sedan with the automatic transmission. It's done a grand total of just 71k miles and hasn't given me any problems until now.
Recently, due to our living situation, I've had to park our car in the garage and seeing as I don't typically do this, it takes a few tries to get it in there. I've noticed that when I park in there the car smells very, very strongly of (I believe, I'm not 100% certain) un-burnt fuel. I've noticed the same thing happens when I make a few attempts at parking on a hill or parallel parking. This doesn't happen when I just drive head-first into the driveway or into angled parking, etc. I've also noticed that the fuel economy seems to be awful for a 4 cylinder. I've driven the car a grand total of maybe 150 miles in the last week and have refueled it to the halfway point from near empty on the gas gauge twice (that's 8 MPG for those who care). I drive it like a mattress salesman so I know my driving habits are not the source of poor mileage.
Took it to the stop, no leaks were found, nothing has failed. Mechanic told me that it's normal for the car to "run rich" at idle speeds (which is when I would notice the smell) and that I had nothing to worry about. Decided that since it was there I would get the rear brake pads replaced and resurfaced. Stops like new They also said that the gas gauge in the older Camrys would often move around like crazy at the slightest suggestion of inclination so my refueling it all the time was unnecessary. Relieving to hear.
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I just got some work done on my Camry (CEL P0440 and P0446). The lights have been taken care of after the Charcoal Canister and hoses above the gas tank were replaced. Since then, I've noticed that I'm getting a gas smell in the cabin when the AC is turned on and when I turn the AC off and roll the windows down. No CEL is on, and I was able to pass emissions.
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I bought a used 2007 Toyota Camry LE a couple of years ago and every time I turn on the AC it smells like cigarettes. The interior of the car doesn't have an odor when the AC is off. Is there anything I can do to eliminate the smell?
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fuel & smoke smell when high acceleration and when the window open.
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