Toyota - Camry :: Brakes Are Binding On Drive


Mar 29, 2011

I drive a 1997 Toyota Camry with 210,000 miles on it. Recently, my brakes were grinding. My ex-mechanic father said he would replace them. When he took the wheel off, he found that the calipers were bound and had been for awhile, as the rotors and pads were metal on metal (whoops). Both sides were completely replaced- pads, rotors, and calipers (he figured if one caliper was binding, the other was or could be soon, though the wear wasn't as bad). He bled the brakes and things were ok for about a month and a half.

My new issue is that the brakes are binding on my drive home from work (after it sits outside for 7-10 hours). The car lugs along. I pull over, try pumping the pedal (which is very stiff) and then make my way home, where my boyfriend takes the car around the block and does something magic and the brakes are no longer stuck. They aren't stuck the next morning, but are when I get in the car at the end of the work day. The wheel wells smell strongly of burning rubber as well.

Things we have checked : We've jacked up both front wheels and the tires spin. They spin less easily when the brake binding problem is present, but they still spin. We've checked the suction, the hoses that connect the booster to the engine, and the brake booster- all appear ok. The brake fluid levels are fine. The pedal remains stiff when you put the car in neutral and even when you turn it off. So what do I do next? We're semi-handy and I'd like to drive this car a bit longer, though I've started the replacement car search.

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My 2005 Camry LE water pump busted, so i replaced the pump and the water pump pulley as well. Now (since i replaced the parts) my car runs terribly. On idle it seems to run very low (about 600-700 RPMs in drive with the brakes on. When i turn on my A/C the RPMs drop significantly and it shakes a bit to the point where it almost kills after a few seconds, then picks back up slightly.

I recently replaced my water pump and water pump pulley, then RIGHT after my car started doing this. To be completely clear, my car was NOT doing this before I changed my water pump. It DID run hot a few times before i was able to replace my pump, could I have fried something?? I am fairly certain its not a blown head gasket, although I do lose water pretty quickly i think.

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Today while switching out the winter tires, I noticed it took significant effort to rotate the rear wheels, both of them. There is a binding noise I heard when I rotated each of the wheels as though the brake pads are rubbing against the rotors. Would it be OK to take it into Sears for a brake pad/caliper check and possible cleaning/lubing of these? Or are these components so unlike those on other vehicles that I should have the dealer check them out?

This was the first time I did the switching of the tires, so I don't know if the wheels have been bound for a long time. Also, in the middle of winter, suddenly the MPG rose for a few days (the vehicle seemed to move easier as well) and then went down. I am now suspecting the binding brakes on the rear might be the issue.

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At first it sound like the car was going to start but as I turn the key and keep holding it for the car to start all the way, it just die again. I try again but this time I step on the gas pedal at the same time I turn the key and after two or three press on the gas pedal, the car work and all the light was off. Everything was fine. This would happen every other day and I would do the same thing to it but don't know why this is happening.

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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry, I was having a noise from right rear and every now and then the car would start slowing down like I was braking. I replaced all four calipers, rotors and the pads, then bled the whole system. The noise went away, but the car still seems to engage the brakes, but only after a few minutes of driving, but then it goes away.

I thought it was a single brake line, but after not driving it for a week, yesterday I was driving it and after about 20 minutes it started again, when I pulled over all for wheels were smoking, after allowing it to sit for a few minutes, I was able to drive home 30 miles without it happening again. Would this happen with just one line bad, as someone suggested, or is this an issue with the master cylinder, bad brake fuild or something else?

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I own a toyota camry le automatic that has the engine light on and dies while driving. I've taken it to a mechanic and he diagnosed the error codes p0500 and 720. we fixed the 720 by replacing the trans. speed shaft sensor and replaced the vehicle speed sensor with one we bought from ebay. The rpm will shoot up randomly whilst the check engine light is on. the speedometer works just fine now. car dies when it slows down or at a stop. the rpm goes far below 1000 and i smell gas then i hear it beginning to struggle just to stay on.

The dash lights dim and return to normal then dim again and repeat then it shuts off and the battery light along with oil light come on. turns on fine but when put in reverse or drive it shuts off. it cant go more than 3 minutes without it messing up. when the engine light isn't on it runs just fine but once it turns on i've got about three minutes to get back somewhere safe. also when it does want to die i have to give it gas for it to stay on. i feel a major lag also and the o/d light flashes along with the pwr light.

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Toyota - Camry :: 1992 - Brakes And Pads Gone After One Month

I have 1992 toyota camry recently bought 68k miles on it ok the brakes were bad so i change all four brakes drums and pads

with in a month my right rare brakes gon again pads all the way to the metal so i thought caliper might have gown bad i change the

caliper next month my left rare brakes gon pads all the way to the metal again i change the caliper. its not over yet with in one month my right rare brakes

gon pads completly so what seems to be the problem.

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This happens every time only in two gear positions i.e Par k and Neutral. After the said time gap, the two warnings start blinking. That's when the engine will crank. And after couple of tries, the engine comes to life. I have checked all the fuses, checked the battery, alternator, tail lights for lose wires But couldn't find anything solid.

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My wife has a 2005 toyota camry with about 84000 miles. She had been complaining of intermittent issues but no one could find the cause till yesterday. Her front brakes were froze and would not release. I took it to the shop and they said the left front was hung and the pad came off and chewed the rotor up. They suggested a brake job. Well in the process of replacing rotors and pads on the front they could not get the caliper to release. Make a long story short, the rotor and pads are changed but the front brakes will not release. They checked the lines and they look good.

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Toyota - Camry :: New Brakes Squeak After Remove Foot From Pedal

Two days ago I had the front brake pads on my 2003 Toyota Camry LE replaced because they were squeaking when I stopped. That squeak stopped, but after driving about 15 miles, I heard a squeaking noise AFTER I took my foot OFF the brake pedal. Pressing the pedal makes the squeak go away. I took the car back the next day and they changed the front rotors. While driving home, the squeak returned. I took the car to my regular mechanic this time. He says the guys who installed the brakes didn't clean anything when they put the new ones on, so he disassembled everything, cleaned the rotors, etc. and put everything back together. He also said they put the wrong pads on the car - I need ceramic pads and they used the metallic kind. Well, the brakes are still squealing when I'm not pressing on the brake pedal and stop squealing when I do press it.

Characteristics of the squeak....It only seems to happen when I drive the car more than 5-10 miles. When I drive a short distance, it doesn't happen. The sound is rhythmic, not constant. If I step on the brake and let if off slowly, like at a stop light, I can hear it "squeak, squeak, squeak" as the tire rotates. The faster the wheel spins, the more constant the sound. It only seems to come from the driver's side.

I hate to take the car back to the original shop because I don't think they know what they're doing. I'm scared of getting ripped off at one of the big chains (I'm a female and of course whenever I take a car in for service at one of those places "everything needs to be replaced.")

Will Toyota ceramic pads fix the problem? Can the wrong pads cause the brakes to squeak when you're not stepping on the brake pedal? Someone else suggested it might be the caliper binding and that would require replacing it.

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the symptoms are that I drive for a bit and then when I hit the brakes the car seems to skid a little before coming to a full stop. Its kind of what happens when you drive a car with balding tyres.

This is driving me crazy. The car has only had about 70 miles on it and I have had to rebuild the engine one time so I am reluctant to get rid of it too soon. I know there is a problem but for the life of me I cant figure out what it is,

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My husband noticed that our 2001 Camry was driving strange. He thought it was a problem with the brakes locking up. When I drove it, I felt like the front of the car was a little wiggly and thought we might need an alignment. When we took it in, they said that the brakes are okay, but that the front struts are "soft." They said that the front struts need to be replaced, which includes an alignment, and we should replace the rear struts at the same time. They said we should get new tires at the same time.

I've been trying to research it some, and we don't have a lot of the problems associated with bad struts. We haven't noticed any bouncing or anything like that. I think they are honest mechanics, but my husband doesn't trust them. We don't have enough money to get all that work done right now, so my question is, can we wait until we notice bouncing or the tires get worse to have the work done? (We would be trying to save up the money in the meantime.) Or, can we just take care of the front struts and wait on the tires and rear struts? Should we just get a second opinion? (The car does have 145,000 miles on it, and I've never had the struts replaced. I bought it with about 65,000 miles on it.)

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One thing that comes to mind is that when I went to tighten one of the guide pin bolts it was a real pain, the big bolt that the screw threads into kept spinning making it hard to tighten the bolt into & none of the others did this. I thought I tightened it down but possibly not?

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