Toyota - Camry :: AC Blows Hot Air / Compressor Cycle On And Off
Aug 5, 2012
Whenever I use the a/c on the 88 camry it blows hot air unless you driving very fast when the vehicle is idling it seem to heat up again you can hear the compressor cycle on and off so that would mean the compressor needs replacing right? And also when I replace it do I need to get a new receiver dryer and filter for it?
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I have a 15 amp air compressor that does a terrific job keeping my air pressures to recommended levels however it frequently blows fuses in both my 2010 Highlander and my 2006 LS 430 Lexus. It appears that a direct connection to the battery is the only recourse. Are the adapters that permit direct connection of the compressor mail cigarette connector to the battery via a female cigarette lighter connector safe and a reasonable alternative to stocking up on 15 amp fuses every time I want to top off my tire pressures?
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My nav. when I put the air cond on auto and lower the temp so the air comes on, it blows out the vents on the front of the dash like it should and is cold. Then after about 30 seconds give or take, I hear a door deep inside the dash shut, or open, then the cold air only comes out the dash vents that are the defrosters for the windshield.
Then I can make it go back to the front vents again by pushing the button on the heater control to make the cold air come out the front vents again, but then it does the same thing again. Whats going to need to be replaced/repaired?
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Ok, '99 F450 has had a/c problem for couple years and finally getting around to fixing it(co. truck and enough people complained).
When dead cold, compressor will cycle quickly, like low on freon. Low side goes from 40 to 20 and back again as it cycles. Put a set of good gauges on it today and I can't get it to turn on at all. Even jumped both hi and lo switches.
Originally I was thinking it was the clutch, but when cold I was able to jump switches and make it run continuously. I didn't have gauges then and didn't want to burn it up so now I have gauges and it won't come on at all(when warm). Will have to wait a couple days til I can try it again when cold(like in the morning before it gets used).
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Decided to put the AC on one day but nothing but warm air, observed compressor didn't cycle. Why this would suddenly occur and why?
Vehicle is a 98 tahoe.
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Ok, so I have a Viair onboard compressor supplying air to airbags, train horn and fitting in the rear. With all that, I have multiple connections and some leak ever so slightly making the compressor cycle ever few hours. Question: Is there some sealant I can use with push on fittings and connectors to eliminate the leaks?
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2 weeks ago my Camry 2008 failed the oil consumption test, so toyota fixed the engine. Few days after I got my car, I turned on the A/C but I was surprised that the compressor wont work. Totally dead.
I took the car to toyota and they check it out, they said they dont know whats wrong with compressor and I need to replace it for 1200$!!! IT WAS NOT A FREON PROBLEM, They claim that electricity is being delivered to the compressor but its just not working.
Is it possible that they messed up my compressor while fixing the engine? Also, I really don't want to fix it for that much, any thoughts where to fix it cheaper?
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The a/c compressor is the nearest thing to the medium slow leak. It's up against the left upper side of the oil pan, near the timing belt cover. It appears red on the oil pan but more yellow color on the ground. There are no power steering hoses and the pwr steering pump is further back (and tho a bit wet, it's not leaking) I drove 6-8 mile this morning w no a/c to see if it would still leak...and it did. The power steering resevoir doesn't seem to be going down. Whata ya recon ? bad compressor ?
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Vehicle is a 2005 Toyota Sequoia SR5. Door locks cycle on and off. Happens during wet weather and usually takes 2-3 hours of driving. Sounds like there is a relay shorting out so that even though the doors are already locked, it attempts to relock them. If I unlock doors using the rocker switch, immediately locks them.
Then the lock mechanism tries to lock them again, and cycles through this every 10 seconds to 3-4 minutes randomly. Is there a relay under the hood which might do this when moisture enters the engine compartment? If so, where is it located and what is the part number.
One mechanic suggested that I replace the multiples computer located in the rear tailgate but he wasn't very clear about why he thought that was the case.
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My 2007 Prius air conditioner blows mainly warm rather than cool air. I took it in for repairs and they replaced the high pressure hose but it is still not cooling the car. The dealer has had the car for 2 weeks trying to determine what the problem is. They tell me it should be blowing 42 degrees but is only blowing 62 degrees. They think that it might be the invertor that cost $1,000.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Sienna Van that has 111,000 miles on it. I have a problem with both the heat and a/c. If you have the heat on but are just idling, it begins to blow cool air. Likewise, if you run the a/c but are just idling the air begins to blow warm. In either case, if you rev the engine (either in park or nuetral say at a red light), the air gets warmer if the heat is on, or colder if the a/c is on. In other words, the temperature only works correctly if the rpm's are up. Could this be a stopped up heater core.
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In driving my 2004 Toyota Highlander, fan blows hot and then cold on "cold" setting. Just hit 85,000 miles. Thermostat?
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I just bought a 1997 Toyota Tercel 5-speed stick, with 175,000 miles, and the temperature gauge moves from its lowest possible position to its highest possible position when the key is turned on, although the engine does not overheat, and no coolant is leaking or being burned. I replaced the coolant temperature sensor, but the actions of the gauge were not affected. I don't know if it is somehow related, but the heater blows cold, regardless the setting of the temperature dial on the dash. What I might try next?
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Every thing was perfect till suddenly my A/C blows hot air on hot summer days when it over 104 , everything works motor clutch , fans so when its hot outside the motor & clutch turns on & off and wont cool it all started when I refilled my AC, I might of over charge a little. Not sure how to fix.
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The engine turns and air blows out of the throttle body. My fuel pump and TPS is good. What else could it be?
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I have a 2009 Camry 4cyl. I bought the car during the winter and did not really test out the A/C. Now we have 100 degree weather in NY and I tried to start it up but only hot air blows out. I have tried to do some research on here but from what I learned and tried everything was in tact. I checked the fuse (Inside the cabin) and freon everything was in order. I also tried looking for the non moving dry belt for the A/C but from what was visible all the belts were moving as they should. From what I saw and heard the condenser is non operational, is there a fuse that I might have missed?
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I have a 03 Matrix and my AC compressor does not stay on long enough to cool the car. In cool weather (less than 80 degrees), on the highway, the AC works well enough if I have it on high. When the weather heats up or when the car is sitting still, the AC doesn't work at all. Today, it was in the 90s and I got an occasional cool breeze from it, when the car was moving.
When observing the pump, I see it kick on briefly then quickly turn off. It's off much more than on, when the car is sitting still. The coolant pressure is charged and I tried swapping the relay. For a time, it was making some noise. I would kind of make a rapid dove sound when running and a fart sound when shutting off. I didn't notice that happening today though.
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If I've been traveling on a hot day with A/C on, at some point after 3-4 hours, the air coming out of the REAR outlet starts to blow HOT.
Again, front A/C outlets still blowing nice cold air, but rear outlet blows really hot air. If you shut the A/C off for 1/2 hour, (or shut the car down for 20-30 minutes), when the A/C runs again, everything is fine again.
I think it must have something to do with icing (?) and the flaps on the ventilation system. Any diagram of the system?
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I've noticed today on my Camry that no matter what I set the air flow selector to on my heater, air only blows on the floor. Temperature and and fan speed seem to work fine. Going around to some local repair shops I was told the whole dash would need to be removed for a repair.
From what I have read changing the air flow selector I should hear some motor make the change from the floor to the face, but do not hear anything.
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I bought auction car, a/c just blowing warm air. a/c light blinking. this highlander limited no manual dial. I have checked relay and working fine, the compressor is not spinning no matter what i try.
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I turn it up on any fan speed, and set it on the floor setting, and nothing blows out the bottom vents. pretty much no air is getting to the bottom vents.
I do feel some air blowing out of the windshield defroster vents when I put it on the floor setting. seems like something is blocking it maybe?
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