Toyota - Camry :: 2007 - Untraceable Brake Failure
Dec 7, 2011
I drive a 2007 toyota camry. This winter the brake light has come on twice - each time after driving for at least 30 minutes on very slushy, cold conditions. The first time, the brakes were still working fine - I pulled into work, topped off the fluid and the light went off. Flash forward two months later. Same conditions, the light came on and as I was looking for parking, the brakes went out. Pedal was soft, emergency lights went on the car said to "CHECK VSC". I pulled into a parking lot and the brakes were once again working, but the lights were still on.
I had the car towed to a Firestone where they were unable to determine a problem. The next day, all the lights were out on the dash. I had the car towed to the Toyota dealership and not only can they not recreate the issue, but when they pull the numbers from the car, there is no indication that anything has ever been wrong with any system in the vehicle. They told me they've called Toyota Tech and there has never been a report of this issue. They want to release the car back to me, but I do not feel safe driving this car.
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My son and I were coming down the mountain on I-70 near Georgetown, Colorado in a snowstorm in his toyota 4runner. We had just gone through the Eisenhower Tunnel. There was alot of traffic, and driving conditions were terrible. We were traveling approximately 10 miles per hour when my son told me that his brakes were not working. We downshifted, and then slid into the guardrail on the median (we were in the left lane). Luckily we were not hurt, and we did not hit anyone else. Once the car was towed back to Denver, the brakes worked again. My son is getting the car checked by a mechanic, but why the brakes gave out and how he can avoid that happening in the future? Was it related to the cold weather (approximate 10 degrees)? I did not feel that he was riding the brakes as we descended. The road was icy at the time.
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I just replaced my Toyota Camry Solara 2005 Front Struts on Thursday to pass State Inspection. On Friday we had a mild snow storm(2 inches) and when taking a turn, the brake didn't work properly and the tires slipped and my car went over the curb and hit a pole. I was going at about 30 mph. My tires are a little old but since they passed the inspection on Thursday I'm guessing that they weren't that bad. My question is did replacing the struts have anything to do with this or was this just my distracted driving...
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Twice in the past two months, the power steering in my 1999 Toyota Camry has temporarily stopped working. The first time, I was making a turn out of a parking lot, and the wheel froze up (or at least became very difficult to turn). The problem completely disappeared after about 30 seconds. Two months later, the problem happened again while making a turn onto a busy street. This time, it lasted only about 10 seconds before recovering. Both times, the wheel seemed to lock after I had already turned it some amount - i.e., halfway through the turn. And both times, it was raining. I did not hear any unusual noises - e.g., belts slipping.
I have taken the car to two different mechanics (one of them the local Toyota dealer), and neither could find anything wrong with the power steering. From their visual inspection, the power steering fluid looks good, there are no obvious leaks in the system, and the power steering belt looks fine. And they were unable to replicate the problem, since it occurs so infrequently.
The mechanics have said that there are two most likely culprits - a faulty rack and pinion ($1800), or a bad power steering pump ($800). I am hesitant to spend this kind of money without believing that the problem would be fixed, but I'm also very uncomfortable driving the car when the steering could give out at any time.
What the problem might be, or how I should proceed? The car has about 100,000 miles on it and is otherwise in great shape, so I'd like to keep driving it for years to come...
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i have a 2007 toyota camry that has lost a valve on one cylinder. 3.5 engine front cylinder on the right. is this common on just a fluke?
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I'm getting Codes: P0300-306 (Misfires) and P0356.
I have researched the definitions of these codes and see that P0356 indicates an ignition coil failure on coil "F" (which would be Cylinder 6?)... but how is it possible only one coil is failing but I'm getting multiple/random misfires on all cylinders?
I've looked at the wiring diagrams and the only place that I can see a "single point failure" that can cause such a thing, would be the ECM itself...
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I have a 2010 toyota camry that needs a parking brake adjustment. the car still stops with the transmission even if the parking brake pedal is pressed down. I changes the pads in the back and it seems to be a little better, but it's not as good as other Camry's I've been in. Where to look as far as the adjustments go? and possibly how if it's not the usual method.
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I own a 2004 Toyota Camry. Its just under 100,000 miles. A few days ago the ABS and brake lights started flashing on and off at the same time. They stay on for a second and then go off. It doesn't happen every time I drive the car but it is happening more than it's not. The place my husband took it to said they can't diagnose the problem unless the lights stay on. Is it safe to drive the car?
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We have a 2005 Toyota Camry, had it since 30K miles/2008, now has 94K miles. Since we have owned it, the brake pedal feel has not been great, kind of mushy. It is the way this generation Camry's are. It gets driven mostly on fwy, so not much brake use. At 92K miles I changed the front pads and rotors, pads still had 30% left on them. The rotors were somewhat warped. Brake fluid has been gravity flushed every 2 years since 2008, last one in 2012.
Now, the problem is when wife drives it, twice at a lengthy red light, she has noted that the brake pedal "almost" sinks. It did not go to the floor, but the level went lower. The car did not move during this events. With the newer ABS brake systems, on all my three cars, after a full stop, I can push the pedal down further, almost close to the floor. The Camry is the same way, just with a baseline of mushy pedals. My wife only drives one of the other ones (Dodge Caravan,)and has not complained about that one.
The brake fluid level is solid/steady, no leaks at the wheels either.
Now looking at whats involved, seems I can change the master cylinder myself. The question is do I need to? I don't mind paying a mechanic to do a diagnostic too, just not sure what they are going to do. I believe, just as a defensive measure, they will go ahead and change the MC (which then I might as well do it myself). I could also continue to drive it, but don't want to be stupid here.
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I had the light and sound show pop up on the display of my 00 2.8 wagon this week. The ABS light, the brake light and occasionally the TC light combined with a big STOP in the display and Brake Failure.
I took it to my local and he did a quick scan and the ABS computer isn't communicating, indicating it's fried.
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I have a 2007 Toyota camry and my stereo will not go to Aux. Before going to pay a ridiculous amount I want to try to work it out myself. So far the forums I've read have been because of bad ipod cable or cables not plugged in all the way. I've checked to see if the back is plugged in to the stereo and it is, tried new cables with ipod. I know its not the cable im using and ipod because I tried it on my brothers car and it works fine. something on my stereo.
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I have a 1996 camry and the break light don't come on non of them. I change the switch under the break pedal and it didn't work. I change the fuse but when I did so it spark and blew the fuse. Is there a reason for this? where should i go next with this issue.
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The power brake booster on our 2007 Toyota Highlander is broken and needs to be replaced. We asked our mechanic whether there are any brake-related recalls for our Make/Model/Year, and he said 'no'. Is this just our particular bad luck, or have others experienced similar problems with this SUV? It was scary. My husband was driving on the highway and needed to make a sudden stop due to a traffic slowdown. The brakes didn't respond, and he needed to slam down the brakes several times to get the brakes to work. No warning, the brakes just suddenlt stopped working.
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Has a 2007 Toyota camry and the only window that will go up and down is the drivers side window.
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I have a Camry at 120K now. Front brake pads was placed at 85K and was told by the maintenance person at that time that brake rotors couldn't be resurfaced since they were close to the minimum thickness.
Braking seems still fine these days. I don't hear any high-pitched noise or feel obvious vibration/pulsation when the brake is applied. The brake pads are still within a good range of thickness as the last check was made a couple of months ago.
But the brake pedal is softer than before so that now I have push harder to get car stopped. It that a warning sign which indicates it is time to replace the brakes rotors and pads?
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I drive a 2002 Toyota Camry v6, and when I brake over abnormal surfaces the car doesn't stop, it just keeps rolling making that rippling sound.
One time we went through and intersection on a green light and another car coming across almost hit us because the ABS kicked on and our car wouldn't stop. It barely missed us.
I heard that I could remove a fuse or something that would disable the ABS. Which fuse can I pull ? Are there any other ways to disable ABS?
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My cousin got a 2007 Toyota Camry. Every time we did a oil change put 5 qt Synthetic ow-20, once he hit to 3000 mile on hard brake stop, the oil light is on, we check that has low oil level and oil change. came out 2 half qt oil.
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I had been driving around with gallons of ATF in my trunk for a year until I recently had the power steering pump changed on my 1996 Toyota Camry (which spent many winters sitting outside up in Canada), and now the leak seems worse. I brought it to my mechanic who wants $800 to change a leaky rack & pinion and a hose. But I am but a poor, unfortunate grad student and so I have no more money to put on this old, yet beloved car! So he suggested I put in a combination of ATF and brake fluid, which might slow down the leak. What say you? Will I ruin my newly acquired power steering pump or make matters worse?
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I been hearing a clicking noise coming from the back right side when I brake. The mechanic said this is not the case and has replaced the right wheel hub, and front axle, and the struts. He is searching for the noise as the noise seems to shift- it really is odd. The mechanic did pay for the axle as it is driving him crazy not to find the problem. I have ABS brakes and this is a 4cyl with almost 200,000 miles.
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I was driving my Dad's Camry in the rain and at one stop I heard what sounded like the anti-lock brake noise and vibration. Heard it again when stopping on leaves. Didn't think much of it until I started noticing the same noise when the road was dry and clear. All the stops were gradual, from under 30 mph. The car stops fine, less the noise. I hear the noise approx 1 stop of 3 or 4 regardless of road conditions or weather.
What's the cause? Since it relates to the braking system is this something I should have the shop look at asap? This is a 2005 but with under 60,000 miles. Has been well maintained.
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05 Camry, 2.4L, 47K. Vehicle parking brake barely holds while in Drive. How is this adjusted? On my 91 Corolla, the brake adjusts itself by pulling up on the handle. The Camry does not have this feature so does this have an adjustable cable? If so, where did they hide this adjuster?
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