Toyota - Camry :: 2007 - AC Not Working After Installation Of Rebuilt Engine
May 13, 2015
We have a 2007 toyota camry 2.4l which had a engine problem so car needed a rebuilt engine. so we went to auto repair shop and they installed a rebuilt engine.But when we went to pickup the car the owner of the shop said our a/c is not working and he doesn't know why. he said its a/c compressor clutch is not working. the a/c was working fine before the engine installation. when I talk to other people (different mechanics) they all say that the repair shop who installed the engine caused the a/c problem. How can I prove that so I maybe can sue the guy in a small claims court? for a good gesture the owner of the shop offered us free labor on installation of a/c compressor but not on part which I can bring my own. I need detail argument. people say that in order to win in a small claims court we need many supporting explanation from experts. we just want the a/c to work again. car drives fine after new rebuilt engine.
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Got a rebuilt head for my metro from a very reputable ebay seller/shop, and it smokes pretty badly after installation. I checked my pcv valve and it has vacuum at idle, and the hose is not plugged. Performed a compression check- 180 on all cylinders- okay for my car. Called the shop to see if maybe they forgot to install the valve seals, and they insisted that there is no way they would forget that.
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2 weeks ago my Camry 2008 failed the oil consumption test, so toyota fixed the engine. Few days after I got my car, I turned on the A/C but I was surprised that the compressor wont work. Totally dead.
I took the car to toyota and they check it out, they said they dont know whats wrong with compressor and I need to replace it for 1200$!!! IT WAS NOT A FREON PROBLEM, They claim that electricity is being delivered to the compressor but its just not working.
Is it possible that they messed up my compressor while fixing the engine? Also, I really don't want to fix it for that much, any thoughts where to fix it cheaper?
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My alarm and interior lights dont work after a vled installation. Basically when I was installing the interior LED's and I had the Map lights working and as soon as I tried to replace the Dome light my map lights, my Map lights lost power including my OEM alarm failed to work again. What to do because I atleast need my alarm to work....
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My remote engine starter has stopped working. It still locks, unlocks, opens the trunk, and triggers the alarm. I have already replaced the battery, with no luck.
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I've a 2007 Toyota Camry (LE 2.4 L 4-cylinder). Couple of days ago I tried to start the car and I heard this banging/grunting sound as I started the car. And, after the car started the engine is running much louder. Oddly enough when I got out of the car and opened the hood the noise didn't seem that loud. In other words, it sounds louder from inside the car than standing outside with the hood open.
Before all this, the engine ran very smoothly and very quite. Here is a link for two audio files that captures the sounds. Note that I recorded these two clips from inside the car.
First when is when I'm starting the engine (the sound can be heard at around 6-7 seconds): [URL] ....
Second is when the engine is running loud (I'm not driving the car...just sitting there letting the engine run): [URL] ....
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Today my check engine light came on and the code is P0712. When I drove off from the parts store, the check engine light suddenly went off. What should I do at this point? What are the most likely problems/solutions.
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I recently bought a 2007 toyota Camry le v6 with less than 38,000 miles it currently has 39,300 miles and my check engine light is on along with the VSC and a skid control light (car with squiggle lines behind it) we have a had lots of rain here where I live and I had to drive through a couple deep water puddles. I looked up online and it said The engine light may turn on if the VSC and skid control lights are on. Could this be that the sensors maybe got wet? I don't think anything should be wrong with this car considering it's a toyota with less than 40k miles
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I have a Camry 2007, V6 and 3 weeks ago speedometer stop working and brake light, ABS light and check engine light came ON.
I had the car checked and P0500 code saying speedometer malfunction. All 4 speed sensors has been checked OK, computer engine replaced nothing change, all 3 lights are on and speedometer is not working.
I also noticed if I pull the connector from SKID control ECU I do have the same lights ON so with or without the connector plugged the same lights are on. Looks like no communication between SKID control ECU and....
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So I posted a while back about fixing all the leaks I had and what I was going to do. I finally completed all the repairs and reinstalled the engine and it won't start. Cranked a bunch and checked oil level in hpop its good so I pulled plugs in oil rails there is oil present there, cracked the yellow valve on fuel bowel there is fuel there. unplugged the icp sensor and cranked more still no indication of wanting to start.
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(2008 ES 350) I hear this squealing noise under the hood, I had the AC compressor rebuilt because I was told that was the cause, low and behold it's not, I only hear the noise when the car is in gear, but I don't hear it when in park or when I drive, but it's loud in drive and reverse. The water pump has been replaced too. Where is this coming from?
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The 289 V-8 of my 66 Mustang was rebuilt and now runs very hot. I have difficulty starting it whether cold or hot?
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The key fob for my 2006 Toyota Camry stopped working. I replaced the battery twice with new ones and it still doesn't work.
I bought a replacement key fob from Amazon and followed the instructions (along with the youtube video) many times to re-program the new key fob and it didn't work.
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2003 Chevy Tracker 4 cylinder. Engine rebuilt and cannot get lifters to quiet down. Replaced 3 times. Bent valves on first install.
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So, I have a 2005 Toyota Camry remote locks have not worked for a while. Also started having the issue with the two front doors where the manual electric locks worked intermittently. I replaced the little RC car motors in the door lock actuators today and got that squared away so that works great now. I also ordered a new remote to program. I programmed the remote and everything seems to go fine with that (The locks cycle when they are supposed to etc.). However, once I program the remote it just doesn't work.
So, trying to figure out what is going on here. Should I just return the remote and try to get a different one...but would it even program if it the remote where not compatible.
Also, read some about about a Door control receiver module. which that is basically a wireless receiver right? I would think if it could receive a signal and cycle the locks during programming then it should work normally??
I drove the car for years and just did not worry about it but have passed it down to my teenage daughter and would like her to be able to unlock the doors while approaching the car so she can just hop in and go without having to fumble around with keys.
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The engine runs beautifully, but we cannot stop an oil leak. The Machine Shop replaced the front and rear main crank seal three times and it is still leaking. We took the truck to Ford who put the dye in and checked for the leak with a black light.Their analysis was that they would START with the oil pan gasket. We then took that info to the Machine Shop who said they could see the oil leaking from the rear main and front seal again and replaced the seals in it again. There is still oil leaking from the engine. From the same place. Why we can't seem to stop the leak,and ultimately how to fix the problem?
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I have a 2007 Toyota camry and my stereo will not go to Aux. Before going to pay a ridiculous amount I want to try to work it out myself. So far the forums I've read have been because of bad ipod cable or cables not plugged in all the way. I've checked to see if the back is plugged in to the stereo and it is, tried new cables with ipod. I know its not the cable im using and ipod because I tried it on my brothers car and it works fine. something on my stereo.
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My rear defogger stopped working after I got the car back from collision repair. I'm trying to see if I can resolve this matter by myself before having to take it back. I've noticed that there is no rear defogger contact on the power grid. None that I can see anyway. I was trying to locate a manual or where it was located if there even is one. Or Why my defogger stopped working.
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I have a 2009 XLE Camry which has been running smoothly for years. I failed to replace my old battery on-time and my drained battery surprised me on Christmas morning. I tried to jump-start it, long story short but something went wrong during jump-start and I lost all the lights on my dash (I can't say I didn't cross the cables but I'm pretty sure I was fully awake that morning).
I bought a new battery and replaced the old one, lights on dash are back on, the engine starts but there is no acceleration at all, the car just moves forward on D and backwards on R but no acceleration on gas pedal. I did some research and figured I might have blown a fuse, I opened my fuse box under my hood and found out my 10 Amp ETCS fuse is blown. I changed the fuse and now acceleration is back, I can drive the car but I get this 'VSC System Check' error on my dash, the 'Check Engine' light is also on and the AC fan is not working.
Could it be another blown fuse? Is this something I can fix by myself?
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The door in the dash wont go to defrost. It just quit today. I assume its vacuum controlled. What do i need to do to fix it? I thought about pulling the dash vent where i can reach in there n have a look but it doesnt want to come out. 1992 Toyota Camry....
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I'm having the well known situation with P0345, P0022
Replaced both phasers, replaced cam sensor, checked timing (properly aligned), assembled back still running rough and rattling, used 10w40 oil,
Complete rebuilt engine, we did head work new seals and springs, valves are straight I had it checked out twice for assurance. New pistons, new rings, new bearings, new oil pump and seals of course. If I disconnect cam sensor Bank 2 it works fine but still runs a little rough.
- Replaced one tensioner due to gasket wear.
- I was told to check on alternator ground (it's missing I know cause it got broken and I haven't replaced that ground that goes into the engine.)
- I also was told change oil to 5w20 and filter (Not FRAM), add some lucas and it should be the fix.
- Also told to disconnect the oil pressure sensor and it would fix the problem but it will throw a code for that.
- I haven't replaced the timing chains I feel they're a little loose but they haven't jumped the teeth, so I guess they're good.
- I saw in one thread to move a teeth on phaser giving me code bank 2 (moved one teeth back and then one teeth forward but it didn't work)
When I first rebuilt the engine I was having the rough iddle then I scanned it and it gave me the cam positioning sensor code P0345, then after I replaced it problem got fixed and code was gone, I was using the truck for 2 days with no issues, then the problem cam back with the two codes P0345 and P0022!
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