I've got a 2005 Toyota Camary. It has a high pitched squeak that occurs off and on, but always disappears the second I press on the break. It sounds like it's coming from the driver's side... possibly the driver's side rear?
View 3 RepliesTwo days ago I had the front brake pads on my 2003 Toyota Camry LE replaced because they were squeaking when I stopped. That squeak stopped, but after driving about 15 miles, I heard a squeaking noise AFTER I took my foot OFF the brake pedal. Pressing the pedal makes the squeak go away. I took the car back the next day and they changed the front rotors. While driving home, the squeak returned. I took the car to my regular mechanic this time. He says the guys who installed the brakes didn't clean anything when they put the new ones on, so he disassembled everything, cleaned the rotors, etc. and put everything back together. He also said they put the wrong pads on the car - I need ceramic pads and they used the metallic kind. Well, the brakes are still squealing when I'm not pressing on the brake pedal and stop squealing when I do press it.
Characteristics of the squeak....It only seems to happen when I drive the car more than 5-10 miles. When I drive a short distance, it doesn't happen. The sound is rhythmic, not constant. If I step on the brake and let if off slowly, like at a stop light, I can hear it "squeak, squeak, squeak" as the tire rotates. The faster the wheel spins, the more constant the sound. It only seems to come from the driver's side.
I hate to take the car back to the original shop because I don't think they know what they're doing. I'm scared of getting ripped off at one of the big chains (I'm a female and of course whenever I take a car in for service at one of those places "everything needs to be replaced.")
Will Toyota ceramic pads fix the problem? Can the wrong pads cause the brakes to squeak when you're not stepping on the brake pedal? Someone else suggested it might be the caliper binding and that would require replacing it.
2002 Solara, 69K miles, occasional squeak from steering wheel when turning, sounds as if it is coming from where the wheel connects/rotates at the column - sounds like a weak rubber horn (like clowns use) or a rubbery, balloons-rubbing-together sort of sound. Not loud - only noticed when I was w/out the radio on (had an exhaust repair last week and was enjoying the quiet). It's not an external steering pump whine - it really seems as if it is coming right the steering column. Short of leaving cheese to there to coax out a mouse . . .
View 6 Replies2005 I4 SE Camry USA built. Got a squeak from the rears the other day and pulled the tires to check. Inside pads (ones against the caliper cylinder) on both rear wheels were at the metal but the outside pads were still not down to the little stripe down the middle of the pads, let alone the wear indicator clip. I pulled slide pins and there were not stuck. The calipers retracted very easily, so not gunked up or dragging. I ordered a new hardware kit with the new dust boots and rubber slide pin parts. I am using good Permatex disc brake grease. I am going to have to have the rotors turned, but aside from replacing the rubber parts the only other thing I can think of is slide pin replacement.
View 2 RepliesI took my wife's 05 Solara to the dealer for the pully recall recently and had the serpentine belts replaced while they had them off. Now there is a short belt squeak during cold start up only. I called the dealer and they said to bring it back which I plan to do asap. 2005 3.3 V-6 Solara ....
View 6 RepliesWhen braking or accelerating or when hitting pothole I hear plastic noise (like when someone pack walmart plastic bags) from either driver front door panel (or insulation around door) or pillar between front and back door on driver side only. I hear same kind noise but much lower noise when pulling up window (only when it reaches top, not all the way...). It is only driver side and not passenger side. Other than that car is so quite (specially with my Defender tires), that any kind of noise is driving me crazy...
View 1 RepliesI have Toyota Camry 2011 4-dr LE. While I was on a road trip recently, the car did something very odd. The vehicle started to cut out and it then stopped. I have to note that it was at a high altitude (somewhere in the Colorado Mountains). After the incident I was able to start up again and the vehicle operated as expected. This is not the problem I wanted to ask about, however I thought I would mention it in case you think it might be related.
Here is the problem I have: When coming to a slow stop or driving in the slow traffic, sometimes the vehicle seems to accelerate when the break is released, as if I have pressed the gas pedal. I would expect that once slowed down the Camry will maintain its speed. Other times while my foot is still on the brake pedal (lightly pressing it during a slow down) I would feel as if I have released the brake for a second and the car accelerates (at which time my reflexes kick in and I press the pedal harder). In addition, the transmission seems to hesitate on up shift. I have noticed multiple times that the transmission does not shift on-time and I could feel it when I drive slower.
So here is my question: Could the problem with acceleration during braking be also related to transmission down/up shift problems? Since the problem with brake malfunctioning and engine acceleration is very infrequent, when I took the car to the dealer they could not find anything wrong.
I just bought a 2009 Toyota Camry with 78K miles on it. Everything is great except at highway speeds it shakes and vibrates when braking. The higher the speed the worse it is. Steering wheel shakes as well. I pulled both front tires off and the rotors appear to be smoothe on both sides with no grooves, etc. However, I'm due for new front brake pads. There's some pad left but could that be why it shakes and vibrates when braking? How do you tell if rotors are warped? Rotors are smooth but could they still be warped?
View 16 RepliesOn my 2006 Camry, my ABS comes on intermittently when braking (~5% of the time) and the speed is very slow (5 mph or less). Exact speed is hard to say. I think one of the ABS sensors is misreading. No ABS fault light on dash.I have an explanation of how to check the sensors for AC voltage when spinning the wheel using a DVM.
1. Without a lift can I check this under the hood instead of at the wheel? Possibly at the plug into the ABS module.
2. Someone else on another thread mentioned that their dealership hooked in a monitor and drove around.
When I asked my dealership how they would diagnose this, they said they would do the same check as I mentioned above (#1). This would be expensive and since it is intermittent, they might not see anything. Do this monitor exists and what it is called?
I own a 2003 Toyota Camry SE four cylinder sedan with only 46,000 miles. The car has four wheel disc brakes and an anti-skid braking system. About a year ago, I started to notice that there was excessive travel in the brake pedal. That is, the pedal will travel an excessive distance before there is any braking action. I have tried to correct the problem by pumping the brakes as I back out of my driveway to engage the self-adjusting mechanism; doesn't work. I have also gotten in the habit now of pumping the brake pedal; that works a little, but it's not a solution. Being an old chap who always maintained my car myself, and diagnosed and repaired most problems, I concluded that the problem was the master cylinder because when stopped at a light, the brake pedal would continue to go down. Incidentally, there has been no loss of brake fluid since I bought the car new in 2003. Recently, I had the master cylinder replaced and learned that I'm not as car-smart as I thought. There is no improvement in the pedal travel problem.
View 3 RepliesI purchased a used 1999 Saturn SC1 in 2008 with 128,000 miles on it. The brake pads and rotors were in excellent shape. The problem: Since that time my car has had a squeal when I apply the brake. This only happens for the first minute of driving the car, in forward or reverse, when applying the brake. Now I have 168,000 miles on the car and I just had the rotors and pads replaced yesterday. The old rotors and pads had slight grooves, but otherwise fine. I thought replacing them would take care of the problem, but it didn't.
The car drives quiet, no squeals or squeaks when starting/stationary. I have eliminated CV joints or wheel bearing as a possible cause of the problem, because it seems like it should make a noise other than starting, especially when driving. Again, the noise is ONLY when I first use the car each day and ONLY happens when I apply the brakes.
My son brought his 2007 Santa Fe over to troubleshoot a squeak upon braking. It took about an hour, but I isolated it to the braking switch. Took it out and attempted to lubricate the plunger. So for some dollars and a trip to the store and the squeak is gone. Just thought I would post this if others have an annoying squeak and don't know where to start.
View 11 RepliesSqueak that persists after I replaced the rear shocks. The noise started with just smaller bumps, but has no progressed to every little variation in the road. It sounds like a squeaky hamster wheel (embarrassing).
The links are tight, and even so I wouldn't suspect that they would make a squeak. In fact, one of them made a clunking noise, and I tightened it. Problem gone.
I have heard a lot of people talk about ball joints, but frankly I wouldn't expect it to start all of a sudden after replacing the shocks; so I'm not pursuing that course.
It squeaks like a creaky bed when I bounce it under my own weight in the back. Also, it makes more of a creak when settling after braking to a stop. I've looked underneath and checked the linkage visually. The removal process did take some doing to pry the old shock out and to put the new one in. I did not remove the whole lower control arm (perhaps I should have).
My 2007 Prius Touring creates high pitch Squeak/Whistle sound while accelerating and braking, But if I put the car on neutral then the sound completely goes away. I have all the holes covered on the both side mirrors and this still occurs. The sound is constant for as long as I accelerate and Brake and the intensity varies with how hard I accelerate or brake, It also does that during regen braking when I leave the accelerator.
View 14 RepliesMy 2007 Prius Touring creates high pitch Squeak/Whistle sound while accelerating and braking, But if I put the car on neutral then the sound completely goes away. I have all the holes covered on the both side mirrors and this still occurs. The sound is constant for as long as I accelerate and Brake and the intensity varies with how hard I accelerate or brake, It also does that during regen braking when I leave the accelerator. What could be wrong?
View 2 RepliesMy Treg has about 3K miles on it right now, and since I picked it up, the brakes have squealed (some times VERY loud, some times just a slight squeak at the end of the braking process). It is currently in the shop for the second time to get a fix for this or an adjustment, and I just got a call from my service advisor telling me there is nothing they can do to quiet the brakes--it is the nature of brakes to squeak and squeal.
I realize that brake dust (and man, there is a lot of that on this vehicle) can make the brakes squeal a bit, but does it even make sense that they would tell me that brakes are supposed to squeal?
I am also having a sticking door handle and a defective ac/heat control issue looked at while the Treg is in (I can illuminate both the "auto" and "econ" buttons at the same time, instead of one switching the other off). Should a vehicle at this price point have noisy brakes?
I recently bought a 2003 F150 sport Scab 4x4 with 75k miles from a Ford dealer with a 4.6l auto. we didn't notice it when we test drove it but it has a squeak when going 0-10 mph in forward or reverse. The story goes a week after getting it home we started noticing a vibration and thudding in the rear end when braking so I take it back to the dealer (50 mile trip 1 way) and when I get there the drivers side rear rim is 30 degrees hotter than the passengers so the tear it apart and find the e-brake was dragging so they lube it up and tell me its good to go. I made it around the building and now I feel it dragging iddling around the parking lot and it is still squeaking so I take it right back in.
Long story short after going through this 2 times that day and bringing it back another day they replaced rear pads, calipers, roters and the hoses going to the caliper and tell me its good to go. Well it no longer had the dragging feel and I had to drive through DC traffic so I beat feet for home and on the way noticed its still sqeaking. I call them and they tell me to put a thousand miles on it and maybe the pads just need to wear in (??). so I took a road trip and 1.2k miles later it still squeaks.
I have tried to tell them it may be the u joints (after searching on here I learned that I am taking it back tomorrow and going to try and get something done but they are still saying its something to do with the brakes and probably won't do the u-joints. Normally, they are filling up the gas tank every trip up there and its all been under warranty (gonna see about getting the warrenty extended tomorrow due to this problem has been ongoing since we got it). Should I just let them run their own course and keep making trips back and forth?
I have had this issue with the braking system for about a year now. Most of the time when using the brakes, everything works fine, but once in awhile, it seems like the brakes on one (I think one) wheel seem to just let go, apply full braking power, or both one after the other. When this happens, you hear loud clunking sounds (which I guess it the caliper going from on to full off and back again) and the rear of the car will raise and lower with the instances. There are also times when a high pitched squeak sound comes from the wheel (like when a bus uses their brakes) which will normally happen a second before coming to a full stop. It does not happen at the same time, but I think is related. Going off the sounds and rear of the car moving I tend to think this is focusing around the driver's rear tire. The brake fluid has been changed, the brakes have been changed on all 4 wheels, and so have the all brake lines to the cylinders. There are no leaks anywhere in the system. The car does have ABS.
View 13 RepliesI just bought a Camry 05 v4. it has 79k mileage. I hear some noises from engine area; what is this annoying noise coming from?
Here is my recorded video.....
I have 2005 Toyota Camry LE (V4 2.4L), for some reason it stopped shifting gears, weird part that it does drive on 1st or 2nd gear but then it won't shift to the next gears, instead, it acts as if I am on neutral, doesn't matter how much gas I push or how high RMP goes the car just rolls as if I switched to neutral.
Once the RPM goes high, I stop the car, turn of the car, turn it back again and then it wouldn't even shift into first gear, it acts as if I am in neutral. Additionally, the reverse in the car works as it should, no problem there. The check engine light is not on!
What have I already done: Changed oil in transmission (just in case the oil was dirty - it was dark), unplugged battery for an hour (see if computer needed resetting after transmission oil change).
I googled the symptoms and it seems like there could be solenoid problem and that there is like four of them in V4, which type of solenoid could have failed, will cleaning it useful or is the electrical problem in the solenoid, or is there some kind of other problem.
So, I have a 2005 Toyota Camry remote locks have not worked for a while. Also started having the issue with the two front doors where the manual electric locks worked intermittently. I replaced the little RC car motors in the door lock actuators today and got that squared away so that works great now. I also ordered a new remote to program. I programmed the remote and everything seems to go fine with that (The locks cycle when they are supposed to etc.). However, once I program the remote it just doesn't work.
So, trying to figure out what is going on here. Should I just return the remote and try to get a different one...but would it even program if it the remote where not compatible.
Also, read some about about a Door control receiver module. which that is basically a wireless receiver right? I would think if it could receive a signal and cycle the locks during programming then it should work normally??
I drove the car for years and just did not worry about it but have passed it down to my teenage daughter and would like her to be able to unlock the doors while approaching the car so she can just hop in and go without having to fumble around with keys.