Toyota - Camry :: 2003 - Tires Seem To Skid When Hit The Brakes Hard
Jul 22, 2012
I drive a 2003 Toyota Camry. For the last six months or so I feel a skid on one of my tires when I hit the brakes a little harder than usual. It seems the problem occurs after the car has been driving for a while. I took the car by my repair shop the last 4 or 5 times it happened and they assure me that the treads of the tires and the brake padding are fine and cant explain what it is I am seeing. They think everything is fine.
the symptoms are that I drive for a bit and then when I hit the brakes the car seems to skid a little before coming to a full stop. Its kind of what happens when you drive a car with balding tyres.
This is driving me crazy. The car has only had about 70 miles on it and I have had to rebuild the engine one time so I am reluctant to get rid of it too soon. I know there is a problem but for the life of me I cant figure out what it is,
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I recently bought a 2007 toyota Camry le v6 with less than 38,000 miles it currently has 39,300 miles and my check engine light is on along with the VSC and a skid control light (car with squiggle lines behind it) we have a had lots of rain here where I live and I had to drive through a couple deep water puddles. I looked up online and it said The engine light may turn on if the VSC and skid control lights are on. Could this be that the sensors maybe got wet? I don't think anything should be wrong with this car considering it's a toyota with less than 40k miles
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2003 toyota Camry. when coming to a stop and hitting brakes there is a poping sound. It almost sounds like metal hitting each other. What is this or causing this!?!? Also it is a 4cylinder automatic with 100000miles.
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The 98 camry has steering wheel shudder after the new tires have been put on. Do I need alignment. will that work now that my tires are scalloped? The guys at the tire shop balanced the tires. the shudder was there on the old tires too, which were severely scalloped. or pitted. Can i do alignment myself?
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Current Situation: I got my winter tires put on last week. I use the same rims for both sets of tires.
Problem: Driving out of the repair shop I noticed a sound coming from the front right of my vehicle which wasn't there before. I kept it off the road and made an appointment. They saw it today and said the right front wheel bearing is shot.
History: I got both axles replaced last year due to super worn out CV boots.
Possible complications: The first shop I went to (Auto Express in Amherst MA) did a crap job, and the clip holding the axles in place came off while driving. I didn't trust them at this point, so I had it towed to XYZ to get it put back on. No problems since.
Question: How likely is it that the mechanic at XYZ did something to cause the bearing to wear out suddenly? The noise started immediately after the tire change and was clear and noticeable. It was not there before.
Car: Toyota Camry with 147k miles on it.
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I installed a new engine in my pre runner. upon completion and a thorough check of fluids connections and such we lite it off ran beautiful and everything seemed to function.Put the hood back on and installed the skid plates and got ready to pull it out of the garage that's when things went pear shaped!!!My son fired it up it ran for a few seconds then shut its self off. the idiot lights would stay on even after you turn off the key and remove it.
Put the key back in turn it to run but not to start position and that will reset everything. the only thing un effected is the door lights. if the key is in it you can step on the brake and the ac clutch comes in and everything goes goofy. turn the key off then back on and try any function be it headlights ac brakes pedal or attempting to start and it goes all goofy. Where to start looking. Ran great for an hour before all of this started.
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I just want to ask and let ppl know if they have had this problem on there camry. This is the 4 time its had come on like this the ABS e brake and Skid light all three came on while i was parked and driving, everything I had to pull over to the side and turn off my car and restart it and the lights are gone.
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I just bought it a month ago & after driving it for longer than a test drive, have noticed the rear wheels chatter & skid a bit when going around corners. It also leans heavily when cornering. I bought it used, with 25,000 miles on it. This is my 3rd Camry & I've loved them all. I never had any problems with their handling until the struts wore out around 100,000+ miles. Replacement struts fixed those. I do not drive it like it's a race car, the loss of traction, followed by fishtailing has happened below the speed limit & sometimes as low as 20 mph. I drive it on the same roads as my other 2 Camrys.
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2003 Toyota RAV4, approx 130K.
A month ago I put a new set of Goodyear tires on my RAV. I drive on the highway 35-40 miles each way to and from work every day. Immediately after the new tires go on, I notice a vibration from the steering wheel at highway speed, above 60 mph. I took the car back to the tire shop (an independent tire shop, not a chain) and asked them to rebalance the tires. They did, and I took the car home. Drive to work the next day, vibration is worse. Next day, my dad and I switch cars so he can take it in. The tire shop says the front end alignment is off, and adjusts it. Small improvement, but vibration is still there.
I took it in for the 3rd time this weekend, and they swap the front and back tires at my request, thinking this might isolate the problem. The shop also checks my struts and says they are ok. (I don't even know what struts are, but apparently they are ok.) Now the vibration has moved out of the steering wheel and is coming from the rear and the floor. It does not happen when I apply the brakes or am on city streets. What this would be? Bad tire or tires? Something else going on altogether? What should I ask them to do?
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On braking my front brakes locks up and there's a screeching of tires. Once I release the pedal all seems fine...or is it?
I dissassembled the front brake calipers and cleaned out the cylinder bores and blew out any contaminants from the line. Reassembled and bled the system only to find the pads doesn't move as freely from the rotors as they should. C-clamped the cylinder as far back in the caliper as it will go, pumped the brakes and still the rotor doesn't move freely from the pads, when the pedal is released...which accounts for the radical "loss of power", as the front brakes are holding on.
Bare in mind the vehicle hasn't seen the long road for almost 5 years and has been under the grinder/ welder/ primer/ sanding for most of that period and only moves out in the driveway when it's a good day to work outside.
New flex hoses? Flush the brake fluid from the whole system and start fresh? New caliper rubber seals? Blow the lines out with compressed air to rid of goop? New proportioning valve?
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A few hours ago my friend was getting off the interstate driving a 99' Toyota Camry. She went to use the brakes and they had no effect. They did not go all the way to the floor and she says there was a lack of pressure/resistance , then a grabbing feeling before the floor but no effect and no sounds. She had to use the emergency brake. It was 14 degrees last night and above 32 today. The brakes worked from the house to the interstate, then did not.It has been towed and so far the mechanics say they can't find anything wrong.
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I drive a 1997 Toyota Camry with 210,000 miles on it. Recently, my brakes were grinding. My ex-mechanic father said he would replace them. When he took the wheel off, he found that the calipers were bound and had been for awhile, as the rotors and pads were metal on metal (whoops). Both sides were completely replaced- pads, rotors, and calipers (he figured if one caliper was binding, the other was or could be soon, though the wear wasn't as bad). He bled the brakes and things were ok for about a month and a half.
My new issue is that the brakes are binding on my drive home from work (after it sits outside for 7-10 hours). The car lugs along. I pull over, try pumping the pedal (which is very stiff) and then make my way home, where my boyfriend takes the car around the block and does something magic and the brakes are no longer stuck. They aren't stuck the next morning, but are when I get in the car at the end of the work day. The wheel wells smell strongly of burning rubber as well.
Things we have checked : We've jacked up both front wheels and the tires spin. They spin less easily when the brake binding problem is present, but they still spin. We've checked the suction, the hoses that connect the booster to the engine, and the brake booster- all appear ok. The brake fluid levels are fine. The pedal remains stiff when you put the car in neutral and even when you turn it off. So what do I do next? We're semi-handy and I'd like to drive this car a bit longer, though I've started the replacement car search.
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry, I was having a noise from right rear and every now and then the car would start slowing down like I was braking. I replaced all four calipers, rotors and the pads, then bled the whole system. The noise went away, but the car still seems to engage the brakes, but only after a few minutes of driving, but then it goes away.
I thought it was a single brake line, but after not driving it for a week, yesterday I was driving it and after about 20 minutes it started again, when I pulled over all for wheels were smoking, after allowing it to sit for a few minutes, I was able to drive home 30 miles without it happening again. Would this happen with just one line bad, as someone suggested, or is this an issue with the master cylinder, bad brake fuild or something else?
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Just to start off im new to the camry family.I have a 2007 camry se. Well the the problem I am having is when i make a sharp turn or hit on the brakes hard my oil light flashes. Didn't know if this is a big problem or something small. the light flashes and goes rite back off.
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I have 1992 toyota camry recently bought 68k miles on it ok the brakes were bad so i change all four brakes drums and pads
with in a month my right rare brakes gon again pads all the way to the metal so i thought caliper might have gown bad i change the
caliper next month my left rare brakes gon pads all the way to the metal again i change the caliper. its not over yet with in one month my right rare brakes
gon pads completly so what seems to be the problem.
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I have a 2000 Camry Solara V6 with about 108K miles on it. The car has recently started to give the following problem: The car starts without any problem in the morning and runs smoothly. There is no problem while the engine is in idle mode. The problem starts when after driving for a while I shut the engine, say for filling in gas. When I try to start the engine again the engine will start, idle for a couple of seconds and then die.
The engine doesn't keep on running in idle mode. I can keep the engine running by pressing on the accelerator and keeping the rpm above 1000. Once I drive for a few feet then the engine doesn't die even if I idle at a stop light. This generally happens only after I shut the engine after having driven the car for a few miles and then start the engine again within the next 20 minutes. The battery is in good condition. Any clues on what the problem may be?
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I have had this problem since two weeks now. Basically I have bad tail light indicator on the dash and bad brakes indicator on the dash some times and some times not. Both come on at the same and turn off at the same time. But when the dash is lit, the car wont crank. Couple of tries later (15-20mins) later the warnings are gone and car starts.
This happens every time only in two gear positions i.e Par k and Neutral. After the said time gap, the two warnings start blinking. That's when the engine will crank. And after couple of tries, the engine comes to life. I have checked all the fuses, checked the battery, alternator, tail lights for lose wires But couldn't find anything solid.
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My wife has a 2005 toyota camry with about 84000 miles. She had been complaining of intermittent issues but no one could find the cause till yesterday. Her front brakes were froze and would not release. I took it to the shop and they said the left front was hung and the pad came off and chewed the rotor up. They suggested a brake job. Well in the process of replacing rotors and pads on the front they could not get the caliper to release. Make a long story short, the rotor and pads are changed but the front brakes will not release. They checked the lines and they look good.
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Two days ago I had the front brake pads on my 2003 Toyota Camry LE replaced because they were squeaking when I stopped. That squeak stopped, but after driving about 15 miles, I heard a squeaking noise AFTER I took my foot OFF the brake pedal. Pressing the pedal makes the squeak go away. I took the car back the next day and they changed the front rotors. While driving home, the squeak returned. I took the car to my regular mechanic this time. He says the guys who installed the brakes didn't clean anything when they put the new ones on, so he disassembled everything, cleaned the rotors, etc. and put everything back together. He also said they put the wrong pads on the car - I need ceramic pads and they used the metallic kind. Well, the brakes are still squealing when I'm not pressing on the brake pedal and stop squealing when I do press it.
Characteristics of the squeak....It only seems to happen when I drive the car more than 5-10 miles. When I drive a short distance, it doesn't happen. The sound is rhythmic, not constant. If I step on the brake and let if off slowly, like at a stop light, I can hear it "squeak, squeak, squeak" as the tire rotates. The faster the wheel spins, the more constant the sound. It only seems to come from the driver's side.
I hate to take the car back to the original shop because I don't think they know what they're doing. I'm scared of getting ripped off at one of the big chains (I'm a female and of course whenever I take a car in for service at one of those places "everything needs to be replaced.")
Will Toyota ceramic pads fix the problem? Can the wrong pads cause the brakes to squeak when you're not stepping on the brake pedal? Someone else suggested it might be the caliper binding and that would require replacing it.
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My husband noticed that our 2001 Camry was driving strange. He thought it was a problem with the brakes locking up. When I drove it, I felt like the front of the car was a little wiggly and thought we might need an alignment. When we took it in, they said that the brakes are okay, but that the front struts are "soft." They said that the front struts need to be replaced, which includes an alignment, and we should replace the rear struts at the same time. They said we should get new tires at the same time.
I've been trying to research it some, and we don't have a lot of the problems associated with bad struts. We haven't noticed any bouncing or anything like that. I think they are honest mechanics, but my husband doesn't trust them. We don't have enough money to get all that work done right now, so my question is, can we wait until we notice bouncing or the tires get worse to have the work done? (We would be trying to save up the money in the meantime.) Or, can we just take care of the front struts and wait on the tires and rear struts? Should we just get a second opinion? (The car does have 145,000 miles on it, and I've never had the struts replaced. I bought it with about 65,000 miles on it.)
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The '04 Camry with 72K miles is making a little of the clunking noise when the steering is hard-over to the right (have not tested left yet). My education on this site says it's the CV joint. So, how urgent is it to get this fixed? The car is getting used probably less than 8K miles/year.
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