Toyota - Camry :: 2003 - Hiccups On Acceleration At 2800 RPM When It Is Hot Outside
May 13, 2014
The particulars are 2003 Camry, 4 cyl, manual trans. When it gets to be 90 degrees or hotter outside, the car hiccups when accelerating through 2800 rpm. That is the most common scenario. Pretty much any gear and the problem gets worse the hotter to outside air. It never throws a code or check engine light. It doesn't stall although it feels like an instantaneous loss of ignition. I can set the cruise control and it will periodically happen when driving through the desert. It repeats as often as it wants to....no overall pattern, uphill or flat, no difference. Dealer says nothing is wrong since it won't throw a code. No issue in the winter, only hot summer driving.
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The car accelerates unevenly when the rpm is in the range of about 2200 - 2800 rpm. Above that engine speed, it quickly smooths out. I replaced the distributor in it in Jan. 2010 and I'm wondering whether the distributor and/or vacuum advance is the cause of this behavior. I don't know whether the distributor also has a centrifugal advance. If it does, then I guess that could another possible cause.
Could I test the vacuum advance by disconnecting the 2 vacuum lines from the vacuum advance control? How to troubleshoot this behavior?
The distributor was bundled with the vacuum advance control, so I presume I'd be replacing the whole assembly if I can verify that the distributor or vacuum advance control is the problem.
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So I just had the 10k service done on my GTI and after I got it back everything seemed fine. That is, until under moderate acceleration there was a weird buzz or vibration that came on around 2800-3400rpm coming from what I think is the engine bay or near the firewall on the passenger side. I was able to repeat the issue multiple times and it showed up every time. However, with the car at a stop and in neutral and revving it I can't make the problem occur only when under load, in gear, and traveling at speed. If I could describe it, it sounds like a playing card against bicycle spokes (for those of us who did that when we were kids)..
Anyways, I drove it straight back to the dealer and at that point had closed their service shop but they did do the right thing and give me a loaner car until they can look at it on Monday. How the heck could this pop up after a 10k service? What all do they do besides oil change, tire rotation, and fluid inspection?
I did pop the hood and one of the side of the fuel rail sounded louder than the other, I suspected that maybe one injector is starting to go and it seemed like an isolated noise but perhaps its not an injector at all. Nonetheless it seems this is a non-related issue..
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Over the last few months I was having a problem with my 2002 SC430 with 130,000 miles having random hiccups and engine hitches during acceleration and even at random times while on the highway or around town. My average 10 minute trip around town would have at least 10 hiccups, all random and during no specific style of driving. No one wants a stuttering engine!
After reading some of the threads here there were several options...
1. Do a system reset by using only the key turned on and pressing on the gas pedal for thirty seconds. While optimistic, this didn't solve the problem...
2. Many threads suggested that it may be my TPS (throttle position sensor) so I started shopping around for a sensor to install myself. They run for about $75 online and are a pretty easy install..but I wanted an official opinion so I went into my local lexus dealership to ask them if this was the best course of action...
The solution: Apparently, the 430 engine is a notorious carbon producing engine so, as my local lexus mechanic explained, this carbon can build up in the throttle body, affecting how the mass air flow sensor (MAFS) is read. My mechanic recommended having a FUEL INJECTION SERVICE. This service cleans the fuel deposits in fuel injectors and carbon build-up in cylinder heads and in the throttle body plating.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Avalon with 139,000 miles and it runs great. When I get on the highway going 80 MPH my RPM'S are around 2700-2800. Is that safe and normal running conditions for the car? Also I will be taking it out of town going that speed for about 3 hours. Should I be nervous or would my car be fine?? It's been about 6 months since my last trip.
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I have Toyota Camry 2011 4-dr LE. While I was on a road trip recently, the car did something very odd. The vehicle started to cut out and it then stopped. I have to note that it was at a high altitude (somewhere in the Colorado Mountains). After the incident I was able to start up again and the vehicle operated as expected. This is not the problem I wanted to ask about, however I thought I would mention it in case you think it might be related.
Here is the problem I have: When coming to a slow stop or driving in the slow traffic, sometimes the vehicle seems to accelerate when the break is released, as if I have pressed the gas pedal. I would expect that once slowed down the Camry will maintain its speed. Other times while my foot is still on the brake pedal (lightly pressing it during a slow down) I would feel as if I have released the brake for a second and the car accelerates (at which time my reflexes kick in and I press the pedal harder). In addition, the transmission seems to hesitate on up shift. I have noticed multiple times that the transmission does not shift on-time and I could feel it when I drive slower.
So here is my question: Could the problem with acceleration during braking be also related to transmission down/up shift problems? Since the problem with brake malfunctioning and engine acceleration is very infrequent, when I took the car to the dealer they could not find anything wrong.
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The truck is a 98 4.6l with 188,000 miles on it and yesterday i was driving up over a pretty steep grade hill, i was going about 55 and turning maybe 2800 rpms at the top a big cloud of white smoke came out (either tailpipe or just out of motor on hot pipes)and also some in the cab. It didn't run any different though so I kept driving about 3 mile and stopped where i could take a look and and saw fresh oil around the starter area running down where the motor meets the tranny. I checked the oil and it was at a good level and also not milky. I checked level again today and it seems well and there is no drops of oil on the ground i ran it home about ten mi and it runs good. What could have happened?
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fuel & smoke smell when high acceleration and when the window open.
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When starting from a full stop our truck intermittently will act like there are air bubbles in the fuel line or something and will nearly stall out several times before it gets going. We don't have a problem while driving. The "hiccups" eventually got better after we began buying a different kind of fuel, but there is still a problem. We have had the truck looked at several times but no one can find anything wrong with it because the truck seems to always be on its best behavior when we take it somewhere. Except for this, the Dodge has been a great truck and pulled our 32' "house" all over the USA and Canada since we bought it brand new in 2003. We are very good about doing all the regular maintenance so the obvious answers can probably be ruled out. It has a Cummins diesel engine and we regularly add an additive to the fuel.
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I have a '91 Camry that's my daily 50 mile round trip commute car. It runs well and still has lots of pep at 156,000. There are oil and tranny leaks (tranny leaks around the pan seal) but I check the levels and keep everything topped off. Tranny fluid and filter were changed about 20K miles ago. I am the original owner. Shifting is OK unless I accelerate hard, then it "bumps" into gear. On hard acceleration it is a pretty good bump but if I back off the gas it shifts much better. There are no other symptoms, at lower speeds it shifts fine unless the A/C is on, then I get bumps above the 1-2 shift. What the problem is?
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I've been working on my truck for months now on and off. I thought i finally had it back, but i have (again) problems with running. it basically only ran for a full day (hauling trip) after getting it back up and running. next day, it died on me on the road.
The new deal right now is that I can make the truck start and it will run, but it has little "hiccups" or misfires that will happen every now and then. Once it gets warm enough, the idling sounds chopped (best way i can explain it). After "chopping" it will then run fine (until the next chop). then it seems that once the truck gets warm it just stalls out. When that happens (shutting off) i can't get it to start right away. i have to wait awhile before it'll start and that lasts only so long.
The truck puffs a tiny bit of white smoke. not constant but more like a "puh - puh - puh" ....I've changed out quite a bit of used up parts now...
Turbo
Injectors & wiring harness
valve seals
IDM
ICP
IPR
CPS
MAP
fuel pump
vacuum pump
glow plug relay
starter relay
All the sensors are OEM. There's fuel in the fuel bowl, and the filter is clean. Plenty of oil in HPOP & oil level in crankcase is good. Have plenty of fuel.
Air filter is clean and fine. No codes. No lights.
2001 f350 7.3 320k on it.
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I have a 2003 F250 4X4 crew cab 7.3. It was running great at 244,000 miles. The only problem was the HPOP was leaking, I had done the two upper O rings several thousand miles ago. Any ways after changing the HPOP while driving down the road it would miss at times or hiccup (funny it wasn't doing this before) Also it died a couple times, once at a stop light, had to get it towed home another time in stop and go traffic, this time it started with-in 10 min after trying several times. So I decided to change the IPR, still did the same thing. So I decided to change the CMP with negative results. I checked the ICP sensor it looked good no oil leaking or no saturation. So would it be safe to say I may have gotten a bad HPOP. Remember, I had no problems until I replaced the HPOP
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I have a Toyota Tundra that shudders under acceleration. Its an A/T two wheel drive. Engine rpm remains constant, vehicle shudders.
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Experiencing a strange grinding noise, around the front right tire area, during acceleration?
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I have an 03 Camry LE with 80,000 miles I do all the maintenance myself it has had the alternator replaced once at around 40,000 miles. The problem that just started is a whistling sound that ONLY is audible after 2500 rpm at acceleration. When the car is in park no matter how much I revive the engine I can not get it to make the whistle sound it ONLY can be heard at acceleration after 2500 rpms.
Also once I cease to accelerate it goes away while I'm driving there is NO Whistling. I've read that it could be the alternator so I had it checked twice on the car and it checked out good it passed all tests. I've removed the belt and spun the pulley to listen for bad bearing but to me sounded fine. I've removed the throttle body boot and checked for cracks an found nothing also cleaned throttle body (not that it needed it) while I had it off.
Also checked air box and nothing. The only thing I've done recently was take out cabin air filter to clean and replaced it but there was no problem with that. What's puzzling is that it ONLY occurs at acceleration after 2500 rpms then stops after acceleration.
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I have a 2003 4-cyl. Was running OK til starter died. Changed the starter, now it starts fine, but has idle problems similar to a dirty IAC. Sounds a lot like this thread: Low idle rpm problem on 2003 Toyota Camry: How I solved it
Haven't tried that fix yet. I was wondering if there anything else I could consider, due maybe to disconnecting the battery causing computer problems or something like that?
So I decided to run it for a while, thinking maybe the computer needed some more data. Idling about 100, but driving OK (around the block) but definitely not right.
Then the check engine light came on; I need to pull the code of course but need to borrow a code reader.....
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My 2003 Toyota Camry has over 100k miles. I believe the previous owner never changed the transmission fluid because it look black and smell burnt. I took it to an auto shop for them to drop the pan, change the transmission fluid and filter. How do I know if changing my transmission fluid and filter resurrected or killing my transmission?
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cyclinder with about 85k miles, for the past few months I've noticed that it has not been idling at 800-900 rpm with a hot engine, but instead it was idling around 500-600rpm. Not really knowing what was wrong, I went through the following process of elimination.
1. New Spark plugs - no change
2. Air filter and oil change - no changes
3. Coincidentally found my upper torque strut mount had a crack in the rubber so I replaced the torque strut mount and 2 lower motor mounts - no changes
4. Seafoamed the intake vacuum hose and gas tank - no changes
5. Checked oxygen sensors (the check engine light was not on)
6. FINALLY did some homework online and someone with a similar problem was suggested to clean out the sensor in the throttle body with carb cleaner - Problem solved!
Here is a verbal summary of how I did it:
1. Make sure the engine is cool because it is in an awkward area so you don't wanna get burned
2. Remove the top half the air filter box and disconnect the electrical and other rubber hoses so that the plastic/rubber intake manifold can come out easily
3. Disconnect the intake manifold, it's basically the non-metal tubing
4. In the throttle body assembly (the first metal component you will encounter after the intake manifold), you will see the "hinge door", swing it open and you will see a pencil erased sized hole toward the back end, use a flash light to see.
5. I used the handle from a hair of needle nose pliers to hold the "hinge door" open while I pointed my straw from the carb cleaner at the pencil sized hole where I suspect the sensor is located and give it a few quick spurts of carb cleaner (caution! Make sure your straw is secure before spraying because you don't to lose your straw down the throttle assembly!)
6. Wipe dry with clean cloth and give it a few minutes to evaporate, replace everything and fire up the engine (it might take a few cranks to get the car to fire up). Warm up the engine and take it out for a spin to see if it has resolved your idle RPM problem
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I have Toyota camry 2003 v6 and power steering needs to be flushed. How to flush the power steering.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry and have a fluid like sound which seems to come from behind my dashboard. I took it in to a well known shop and they said it was a bad (ill fitting) cap on the radiator. Apparently air was getting into the system because of the cap not fitting correctly. They replaced the cap and for a year it was fine. Now a year later the sound is back.
It is heard pretty good when I start the car in the morning, accelerating after coming to a complete stop ( say like at a stop sign), or when the mood strikes it I guess. I took it to another shop but same franchise, and they could hear a lot of nothing. Of course that would happen and the car didn't make any more sounds for the rest of the day. The next day it came back and now I don't know what to do.
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I recently moved from TX to MN and it's getting cold enough to need heat in my car. Well I've turned it on and nothing but cold air comes out. I've check my coolant level and it was getting close to low, so I added more and I've checked the fuses and they look good. So, what it could be or how i can fix it?
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