I have a 2002 camry 4 cyl. I bought at 65,000 miles. I drove it for 2 years and had a clanging sound that would come and go. My timing chain needed replaced because the sludge in the bottom of the pan clogged up the tube taking the oil to the chain. I religiously changed the oil every 3,000 miles, but I still get sludge. Is this an engine that was recalled by Toyota?
View 3 RepliesI have an 02 mercury mountaineer awd. It's making a clunking/clanging sound when going in forward and reverse and it gets louder when turning. Just replaced driver cv axle, changed fluids on front and rear differential also put the stiction modifier in rear. It only does it on the ground assuming it's putting a load on it. Won't do it on a lift. What might be causing it. Tires are same size also.
View 3 RepliesMy 2002 Toyota Camry started making a clunking sound near the front left of the car (and I could barely feel it, too) at low speed over slight bumps. My mechanic, who I trust, said I had two broken engine mounts. He replaced them. Sound continued. He said I needed new struts. He replaced them. Sound continued. Decided to take it to a Toyota dealer. They said I needed new lower control arm bushings but couldn't guarantee that was the source of the sound and they would just have to see. I opted to ask yet another mechanic, who said the control arm bushings are NOT the problem, but he would have to spend some time (could be several hours) exploring to find out what the problem is...at $70+ per hour. The car only has 86,000 miles on it, but I'm getting concerned that I might end up paying for a new car without the new car smell if I keep spending money on "possible" causes.
View 12 Replies2002 toyota camry 4 cylinder. I noticed that when I close the hood, right after I close it I hear a sound like a small amount of liquid is being poured (it doesn't sound like much, maybe as much as half a shot glass worth). I did it about 10 times and I don't see anything dripping onto the ground or under the hood. It sounds like it's coming from near the radiator (although with the hood closed it's hard to tell, also radiator is new with maybe 10,000 miles on it) I noticed it after changing my oil. What the sound could be? Something to be concerned about? There are no other problems with the vehicle.
View 16 RepliesWe have an '02 Toyota Camry with about 92,000 miles on it that is making a weird intermittent "Whooping" noise. The sound starts low and then goes high. It seems to come from the dashboard or the steering column I think.
A guy at the parts store said he thought it might be radiator core going bad, but admitted it's hard to know without him hearing it.
I've tried to record the "Whooping" sound but obviously the car never makes it when I'm trying to do this or can be easily heard on a recording. Additionally we took it to a mechanic and they didn't hear anything!
So I had been noticing a bit of wheel hop in third gear before my UM flash. Just got the flash a few days ago, and I love it. But since then two things have arisen:
- When sitting at idle, the car vibrates. I can feel it through the brake/gas pedals and steering wheel. I didn't notice it prior to the UM tune. It's like an undulating feeling even more than a vibration.
- When upshifting, I now seem to get a clanging sound/feeling if I upshift anywhere less than about 3200 RPMs. It doesn't always happen, and it won't happen if I'm really fast with engaging the clutch after taking my foot off the gas. But it is disconcerting.
Prior to the tune, I had gotten used to the sort of bucking and whatnot when you let off the gas and learned how to shift to minimize it. But now it isn't as easy to do a mellow, smooth upshift under 3000 RPM's...i.e. if I just want to pull away slowly from a stop. My question is, do these sound like symptoms of bad motor mounts? The car has just under 25k miles on it. The mounts are all stock. I was wondering if the UM tune was just enough extra power to put one or more of them over the edge.
Yesterday evening I started up my 2008 variant 3.6 4motion after it had been sitting for about 24 hours. It started up right away but immediately started making a clanging racket that sounded just like an old Mercedes Diesel that needs a tuneup. It was such a loud and odd noise that at first I thought it was another car or truck pulled up next to me!
After about 5-10 seconds it settled down and idled normally--no warning lights, no leaks, no performance issues. I took it on a ~7 mile mixed freeway and surface streets drive with A/C off and on and it ran like a champ, then it sat again for a couple of hours before the return trip and started up & got us home with no problem.
It definitely wasn't the normal injector noise and it wasn't the emissions SAI (Secondary Air Injection) pump either. Since it's a 2008 (and since it's still running) I'm ruling out the oil pump bolt. The accessory v-belt and tensioner look fine and engine oil level/pressure are good, too.
We're experiencing our first real hot weather of the summer (low 90s) and it had been baking in the sun all day, so I'm wondering if the temperature caused pinging on startup before the ECU adapted?
Today, of course, it was normal. Have any other 3.6 drivers ever had this happen?
Today i went to the store and my toyota camry 2002 with 4 cylinder turn on fine. i came back home and car also turned on. after 3 hours, i decided to take a short trip but this time the car was not turning on. there is no cracking, radio and headlight dont turn on. i thought it could be the battery, i used a multimeter and see that i get a 12.6 volt but still no headlight or radio.
The battery is 3 1/2 years old but the fact i get a 12.6 v make me believe is not the battery. I get a little bit of light in the dashboard and when i try to turn on the car it looks like the dashboard light get dim as well as the indicator in the dashboard such as battery indicator, abs, oil etc.
The starter was changed 2 years ago. The car turn on normally before, no sign of long cranking or anything like that. So I think it is not starter either but not sure. when the starter went bad 2 years ago, there was no cracking but the car made a click sound when try to crank. Now there is no click sound and this is why i think it is not the starter.
It's a 2002 Toyota Camry, v6. We just got brand new tires on it. The car shakes really bad between 20 - 60 mph as long as the accelerator is applied. After 60 mph the shaking mellows out and it seems normal while the accelerator is applied. Between 20 and 60 mph while the car is shaking, if I remove my foot from the accelerator the shaking stops and car is normal. To sum up, the shaking only seems to be there while the accelerator is applied. Is there a part I can replace that is relatively simple to do...If so, what part is it?. I'm not too be with cars. I've done some pretty big jobs following repair manuals.
View 10 RepliesI just got a 2002 Toyota Camry. She runs fine, but the one thing that bugs me is that when I am stopped and my A/C is on, she shakes. I needed to do to make it stop shaking or if this is normal?
View 13 RepliesMy 2002 Toyota Camry 3.0L EFI DOHC 6cyl Camry LE will periodically refuse to go into overdrive. When I pull the code it shows P0330 code. (knock sensor bank 2 failed knock sensor/fault in knock sensor circuit/failed PCM) It seems that if I clear the code the problem goes away and the car shifts smoothly for about 30 miles and the then go right back into the problem. (and the code shows back up.) This makes no sense to me and I don't see how the 2 might be related? Is this just a coincidence or am I missing something? The Over drive switch indicator light goes on and off when I push it on and off but does not work with the problem when it is occurring. I just did a transmission service on it last week end and had done one 35000 miles ago. The car has 220,000 miles on it.
View 6 RepliesI just got some work done on my Camry (CEL P0440 and P0446). The lights have been taken care of after the Charcoal Canister and hoses above the gas tank were replaced. Since then, I've noticed that I'm getting a gas smell in the cabin when the AC is turned on and when I turn the AC off and roll the windows down. No CEL is on, and I was able to pass emissions.
View 9 RepliesOnce day my car began idling poorly and would not accelerate beyond 3000 rpm. The check engine light began blinking and I stopped driving it.
My check engine light remained on and the obd read Cylinder 2 misfire (p0302) and random cylinder misfire (p0300). I tested the ignition coils and found that the cylinder 2 ignition coil was dead so I replaced it. The codes no longer showed but the car still would not accelerate and was firing irregularly. I checked for vacuum leaks but found all hoses connected and whole.
I tried removing pcv hose and blocked the valve with my thumb and the car instantly corrected the rough idle. I then went around the block and the car drove and fired properly. I'm unsure if I am losing vacuum pressure in the intake manifold or if the issue is elsewhere?
My 2002 Toyota Camry 3.0L EFI DOHC 6cyl Camry LE will periodically refuse to go into overdrive. When I pull the code it shows P0330 code. (knock sensor bank 2 failed knock sensor/fault in knock sensor circuit/failed PCM) It seems that if I clear the code the problem goes away and the car shifts smoothly for about 30 miles and the then go right back into the problem. (and the code shows back up.)
This makes no sense to me and I don't see how the 2 might be related? Is this just a coincidence or am I missing something? The Over drive switch indicator light goes on and off when I push it on and off but does not work with the problem when it is occurring. I just did a transmission service on it last week end and had done one 35000 miles ago. The car has 220,000 miles on it.
I have a 2002 Toyota Camry LE. It's alarm is super sensitive. When the car is parked and locked, if a large truck (semi's, diesels, etc.) or motorcycles go by my car honks 4 times rapidly in a row. It is obnoxious at night when trying to sleep as you can imagine.
View 6 RepliesOur '02 Toyota Camry with 92,000 miles has been idling rough for awhile. I tried cleaning the throttle body which actually seemed like it made it worse for awhile. I do need to replace the valve cover gasket and I don't think the spark plugs have ever been replaced. Is that a good place to start?
View 6 RepliesBackground: My 02 camry (155k) ran great but I noticed grease/oil on the front of the engine so I had a local mechanic take a look. He replaced the front valve cover gasket, timing belt, and while he was in there, the water pump. He made me take it to the dealer to reset/recalibrate the stability control sensor because after disconnecting the battery to perform the work my "VSC", "trac off" and check engine lights were on. I got it back along with a list of work they thought I needed (replace the rear valve cover gasket, dog bone engine mount, and a bunch of bs I don't need).
Problem: Quickly my check engine light is back on. I fill up gas and I can't get it to turn over. The owner of the shop gets it to turn over by gassing it a bunch while turning the key. My mechanic later tells me the check engine light is due to a bum gas cap. He replaces that and the dog bone mount. Next day check engine is back on AND the next time I get gas the same thing happens - it won't turn over until I gas it, then it turns over and stalls a few times until I really gas it and it turns over and takes. Every other time I try to start the car it turns over first try. Both times I filled up I wasn't close to running out of gas or anything. I don't think the gas cap or the fuel injectors went bad coincidentally the same day the dude had his hands in the engine.
I have 02 camry xle with digital a/c , the a/c only works on max cold, if i set the temp to 65 ot 70 ot any number it will become heat ,
View 2 RepliesI have a question regarding a leak i have in the manifold of my toyota camry 2002 2.4 cylinder. the engine check light is coming up and after a check on the mechanic there is a leak in the manifold where the catalytic converter is attached. when you put your hands near the pipe, you can feel air coming out. See the image attached.
The link is in the part mark as X. The catalytic converter is the one which is circled. [URL] ....
Our 2002 Camry is in very good condition with ~75k miles. The other day we went to start the car up and it wouldn't turn over. The car would turn a couple of times and then start clicking. We jumped the car and I hopped in to take it to our local mechanic. I instantly noticed during the entire trip to the mechanic that the idle was very slow and chugging. Like it wanted to die anytime I was stopped.
I got to the mechanic and pulled in the lot. The car died. However, I was able to start it up again with no issues. A day later I get a call from the mechanic telling me that they had no issues starting the car whatsoever. They said the battery was a little weak so they replaced it (it was the original battery). I was also told that I might consider changing the spark plugs in the near future. Otherwise they said the car was running great.
After getting the car home I am once again noticing the low/chugging idle. It doesn't seem anywhere near as bad as before, but it is there sometimes.
I've been having some problem with my 2002 Camry lately. It started when I was exiting off highway waiting at a stop light when my car just suddenly stop, while the car was still in drive. The battery light, engine light, and oil light came even though the music was still playing. So I put the car to park, turn the key to completely turn off the car and restart the car.
At first it sound like the car was going to start but as I turn the key and keep holding it for the car to start all the way, it just die again. I try again but this time I step on the gas pedal at the same time I turn the key and after two or three press on the gas pedal, the car work and all the light was off. Everything was fine. This would happen every other day and I would do the same thing to it but don't know why this is happening.