Toyota - Camry :: 2002 B6 - Bucking Or Lurch Forward At Low Speeds
Jan 21, 2011
Intermittent problem, noticed mostly at low speeds, where car will buck or lurch forward. Most noticeable when accelerating after a slowdown, i.e. applying gas after coasting. No check engine lights, oil & transmission fluid is full. Car has 105K miles, tranny & coolant flushed every 30K, oil changed every 3K, tuneup w/plugs& wires @ approx. 93K, timing belt @ 70k. This car is a gem, mostly driven on the highway that has been perfect until now. Things I've considered doing: replacing timing belt, transmission solenoid, computer sensor that controls tranny. My suspicion is its tranny related but maybe not. Is there a way to check/set the timing on this car? I remember years ago using a timing light on my chevy. This is weird, it will run perfect smooth in the morning and rough with lurching in the afternoon. Could be a total coincidence but it seems to run ok when its cool and not so when it is hotter.
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My wife’s ’97 RAV4 has 135,000 miles on it. Two days ago it started bucking/hesitating (feels more like bucking, and its worse if you try to give it the gas) at speeds below 25 -30 mph. No loss of speed/power when going uphill. Its worse when the engine is cold.
I cleaned the throttle body with spray cleaner, no change. I added Prestone fuel system cleaner to the gas and have driven 20 miles since then. Very little if any change so far. I always use good gas (Chevron regular) and the car has been well maintained (primarily by me).
Timing belt, seals and both bearings were replaced two years ago. Just about a year ago I changed the plugs, air filter, distributor cap and rotor. The fuel filter has never been changed, and the spark plug wires have never been changed. What I can try next? Where is the fuel filter located? I have the Toyota repair manual. It shows a pic of the filter, but not where its located. I have one ready to install if that could be the problem.
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I have an '02 Camry XLE (1MZ-FE) with around 175k miles on it. I've never done any transmission maintenance on it until recently (I was one of those dopes who believed my mechanic when he told me that the fluid didn't ever need changing).
A couple weeks ago, I started noticing a bit of a lurch when I was driving. It wouldn't ever affect the RPMs or anything and it was only ever an instantaneous thing so I didn't let it bother me too much. About 3 weeks ago it started getting worse and rapidly deteriorated into a problem. The engine started doing it in idle and it would happen numerous times (sometimes, when I'm driving in the city, it happens as many as 3 times a minute or so).
I immediately attributed the problem to the transmission and did 2 drain and fills with a synthetic fluid that's rated to meet Type-IV WS standards. The problem hasn't gone away, so either the problem in the transmission is a lot worse than I'd hoped, or there's something else wrong.
I ran an OBD-II code reader on it and have been getting an O2 sensor code. I was planning on replacing both of the O2 sensors to see if that fixed the problem. I was thinking that the lurch that I was feeling was just engine misfires caused by the O2 sensors sending bad info, leading to the engine running lean (the engine hasn't been overheating).
Either way, I need to put in new O2 sensors, but yesterday while I was driving to work, the engine almost completely stopped supplying power. It kept running, but no matter how hard I pushed the pedal, the vehicle wouldn't move any faster. I pulled over, turned it off, and turned it back on, and it worked again, but the VSC and traction control lights went on.
Does this sound like a transmission problem, or is there something in the ECM that would cause these kind of things now that the O2 sensors have gotten so bad?
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When coasting to a stop, I have noticed when the rpms reach 1000-1100 they jump up a little bit. Sometimes you can even feel the car lurch forward just a tiny bit. Is this normal for a car downshifting??
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Twice today with cooling temps (45 during the day, closer to 30s on way home) while shutting down after being put in park my Prius did the "lurch forward and shudder." This is something new! Fuel has been purchased consistently from the same Shell station, she's garaged at night and MPGs are averaging 45... OK but nowhere near my great warm weather mileage. We are at close to 2200 on the odometer if my memory is working right - 2012 4 version. Happened once at the bank after work, once in the garage, level ground.
Not sure what is going on... this is new to me with a new car....
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I have a brand new 2010 Passat. I am unable to achieve a smooth start from stops and the car will lurch forward when I take my foot off the brake. Any small input from the gas pedal produces a jumpy start to the acceleration process. I have about 300 miles on the car. I bought this for my wife and she is very uneasy about driving it.
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I have the not-so-uncommon grinding brakes problem too. In my case, however, there is a scarier difference: if I have to stop suddenly and hit the brakes hard, I hear the grinding and the car kind of shakes, but then as the car is decelerating, I will actually get the feeling that the brakes have totally disengaged, and the car will lurch forward! If I then depress the brakes quickly, they will engage again and stop the car. I've had a couple of close calls in heavy traffic when cars in front of me have stopped suddenly.
I guess that the grinding might be the ABS, but I've never heard of ABS causing your brakes to konk out completely! It's to the point where I'm scared to drive the car if I know there's going to be much traffic. I bought this Elantra last October to have a nice new car to drive my 6 and 4 year old around, so I'm very unimpressed, and scared, with the whole situation.
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I have a 4 cyl 2002 Camry with around 80,000 miles. Last night I put the car in reverse (flat parking lot) and the car started to buck/jerk when moving backwards. Going forward the car is fine. No check engine light.
After driving for two miles I tried putting the car in reverse a few times and it was fine. This morning I tried putting the car in reverse 8-10 times. One time I got the bucking again, went forward and then reverse again and no problem. Trans fluid was changes 5 months ago.
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So I just bought a 2004 Ford Focus. I did not drive above 15mph when I tested the car due to the lake effect snow that was occuring. Now that I own the car I have noticed if you try to stop going over 20mph the car starts to stop but last second it lurches forward a little bit. There is also a grinding noise that sounds like its coming from the back and a loud vibration that sounds like its coming from underneath the middle of the car. I'm trying to figure out if it is the brakes, tires or a leak in a brake line (those are all things my dad said it might be).
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I have a 2002 camry with 212000 miles on it and just lately when driving at a constant speed 60 mph or over it starts to buck or jerk a little bit and you can feel it in the seat. I've had the throttle body cleaned and put in a new mass air flow sensor and it hasn't fixed it yet. What might be causing this? It doesn't do it when accelerating or slowing down.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander that sort of chokes. At random times while driving, the car hesitates on acceleration, chokes a little, and then continues to accelerate. It is an automatic transmission but it feels like I can feel the shift in gears. usually happens at low speeds (20 mph). no matter time of day or warm up period. I have been having regular maintenance at dealer. there was a caution note that I would need spark plugs replaced... is this it? a result o f needing new spark plugs? or something else?
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I have a 2002 4Runner that has recently developed a vibration at freeway speeds. I purchased new tires about two months before the vibration started. I have been back to the place where I bought my tires and the assure me that they are balanced.
I have been dealing with this problem for the past couple of months and have been getting nowhere. When I took my 4Runner into the dealership to get the lower ball joint replaced I spoke with the service folks about the vibration problem and all I got in response was "we've never heard of that before".
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I had a problem with my steering wheel shaking at various speeds. Eventually I found a bad inner tie rod and replaced it. The shaking is gone, but whenever I get over 70 mph there is still a very small vibration. I had all 4 wheels aligned after changing the tie rod. Tires are brand new, less than a week old. The mechanic checked my ball joints while doing the alignment and said they were good. Could my struts be causing the vibration? They need replaced, not sure if the previous owner ever replaced them and the car has 225,000 miles.
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I have a 2002 camry xle 115 k miles, lately I started to feel the abs engaging at low speeds dry street, tires are good and new front rotors and pads, no dash warning lights. I looked at the front speed sensors and cleaned it still doing that...
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My 2002 Toyota Highlander burned up to a quart of oil very 300 miles when on a recent long distance freeway trip. It must be burning it out the back as there is no drip. Clearly, there is a leak, but why only when driving on long freeway trips? Can this be due to pressure build-up and a clogged PCV?
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I have a 92 Honda CX hatchback, 5pd with 140k on it. Since I bought the car used about a year ago it's had a low speed stumbling/bucking issue. For the most part, it's only when driving slow and steady but occasionally at highway speeds it'll do it as well. It's as though the whole engine just cuts out for a second. Giving it more gas always brings it back but it's incredibly annoying, especially in a parking lot with a cup of coffee or something in your hand.
For starters, the rotor, wires and cap are all very recent. I pulled the ECU codes and it indicated #7, Throttle Angle Sensor. Bought a new one, calibrated it, reset ECU and drove on. No change. Car still bucks and the CEL comes on occasionally. At first, I suspected the plug to the TPS since it was loose. I pulled new wire and soldered directly to the ECU and TPS. No change. Of interesting note, when the CEL would come on, it seems the TPS falls offline and the car runs great! I disconnected it for a tankful and noticed my 40mpg/hwy go down to 25mpg. Completely unacceptable for a car so painfully slow.
Another observation, the stumbling doesn't start until the car warms up. Also, if it's particularly humid/raining, sometimes it won't do it at all. A lot of people have suggested the O2 sensor, distributor, fuel pump/filter. I don't have money to just start throwing at this thing and of many similar issues I've read of others with the same car, nobody seems to have a solid fix.
I've replaced the TPS, completely cleaned the throttle body and IACV, checked for vacuum leaks and even opened up the ECU looking for cold solder joints. It looks newer than new inside. Like I said, with the TPS disconnected, car runs great but the mileage goes south.
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My 1998 V6 Camry has rattle on right front and now starting on left too. Bad shocks were replaced and still rattles going over bumps at speeds 20-35. Don't notice on freeway. Car drives fine, no pulling or other problems just irritating noise at slower speeds. Two different mechanics say the Strut mount plate is loose. Could not find any other problems? Is it okay to leave the mount plates in place? Mechanics say other than annoying there isn't a problem.
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I've got a 2002 Toyota Camry with 96,000 miles on it. Car has been running fine for years but on a recent 250-mile drive I noticed a whirring noise (almost like the engine of a remote-control electric car). The noise is faint, but definitely new. I'm fairly sure it's coming from the under the hood, or at least from the front half of the car. No vibrations. The noise is only audible at highway speeds, and really only present when I'm accelerating (or on cruise control). It seems to get slightly worse if the car is climbing a hill.
Some things that have been worrying me:*I left the car in a friend's driveway all summer. Could that have anything to do with it? (There were no noticeable problems when I got back, which was months ago--when I came back after two months, I simply re-connected the battery and the car started on the first try).*I had a transmission fluid change about 2K miles ago. It was at a Jiffy Lube. They "flushed" the old fluid. They claimed they used the correct Toyota brand fluid. (I've since read that flushing the old fluid can be a bad idea for older cars.) Could this have something to do with it?*I just had my snow tires put on two weeks ago (and this is the first long drive I've done with the snow tires on). The guy who changed my tires took about 2.5 hours to do the job, saying "this is only his second week." The car is steering fine, and not drifting or anything, but could that mechanic have done something to the tires that is causing this highway-speed, acceleration-only whirring noise?
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My Camry is idling low. Car runs smooth while cold. Car sputters when I touch the gas at low speeds inconsistently. After a brief period it picks up and runs great. It gets worse throughout the day. It is the worst in the evening after driving back from work or town. I have changed the spark plugs. It ran a little better after that. It ran a little better after new front tires. Vehicle is front wheel drive. Just replaced both cv axles but the problem started before replacing them. Also I have replaced the fuel filter. I also introduced a half can of Sea Foam directly into the engine through a vacuum tube and reved it. Lots of black smoke came out. I took the other half of the can and put it in the gas tank with four gallons of super when the fuel was fairly low. It now has more "get up and go" after the initial sputter and better gas mileage but the initial problem is still there.
The problem started after I left the key turned on and killed my battery. A friend jumped me off with his xterra. He revved his engine and I cranked mine and it started that's when this issue started. Car also has a muffler leak in two places. I had the flex pipe redone. The muffler shop had to weld it on. The weld in the front of the flex pipe leaks a bit and the connection after the exhaust manifold and before the flex pipe leaks a bit. This was very apparent when I sea foamed it. The o2 censors ( it has two) are costly. So my next step will be to take then out and scrub them with a wire brush, no chemicals. Also I am going to have the weld touched up on the flex pipe. The mechanic did his best to tighten up the connection after the exhaust manifold and could not get it any tighter.
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I have 144,000 miles on my V6. Just started to notice that the car is surging/hesitating at just about all speeds. It appears to idle fine and if you raise the RPM in neutral I can't detect a problem. If you place the trans in drive, apply the brake and raise the RPM to 1000 to 1500 the engine's RPM varies slightly and regularly, it not steady like all of my other cars. When you are at highway speeds you can feel the car slightly buck, if you take it out of overdrive it is more detectable due to higher RPM. I do not notice the problem when the engine is cold.
I have a hand-held scanner and I see no codes and there is no CEL illuminated. I changed the plugs with OEM plugs at 90,000 miles when I changed the timing belt. Changed the air filter probably 10,000 miles ago. Just cleaned the MAF sensor (after the problem started), no change. Took it to the dealer. They discovered broken motor mounts which I kind of suspected I had, but I didn't feel the symptom were mount related. They said that I was feeling torque converter lock-up. I told them that the range of speeds and gears that the problem presented itself that it was unlikely lock-up.
Alldata suggests that it is a fuel problem and Toyota has some TSB's for drivability. I'm discounting the TSB's because this just started recently. Any hints as to where to try first? EGR, fuel regulator, fuel pulsation damper, injectors, spark plug coil packs, ..... It gets too expensive to just remove and replace the sensors that deal with the fuels system. I have plenty of tools plus a volt-ohm meter and a fuel pressure gauge.
07/21/2009 : While I was at work I added Seafoam to the gas, tank was half full.
On my way home from work I disconnected the EGR Position Sensor connector and the symptoms disappeared and the expected CEL illuminated. When I arrived home I went on Alldata and looked for an EGR system test. I found two, one for the position sensor and one for the EGR temperature sensor.
I had to run out to Sears to pickup a vacuum pump. I performed the tests below up to the point that I needed the pump. I also removed, inspected and reinstalled the EGR Position Sensor before I left for Sears. I did not notice the symptoms on the trip about 14 miles round trip. I'll see if I still have the problem on my way to work tomorrow.
Performed the on-vehicle inspection as listed on Alldata
EGR Position Sensor resistance: 2.6 ohms, in spec
EGR Position Sensor power: 5.0v, in spec
EGR Position Sensor output with no vacuum applied: 1.0v, in spec
EGR Position Sensor output with 5.1 in Hg vacuum applied: 4.0v, in spec
07/22/2009 : Problem seems to have gone away, no bucking or hesitation. Maybe the connector contacts were dirty on the position sensor. Will update if the symptoms return.
09/07/2009 : Noticed that I am getting 2 miles per gallon more than before I found the problem.
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Driving around town it doesn't happen too often. Like if I am starting from a stop it feels fine but when going up a hill or passing on the highway it bucks and shakes and doesn't want to go over 3000 rpm. Also, the check engine light is on and it flashes when it's really bad. I took apart the intake and didn't see anything weird. I am about to take it in to see what the code says because it's been getting worse.
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