Toyota - Camry :: 2001 Barely Turns Over When Try To Start It
Jul 3, 2013
My 2001 Toyota camry has twice just barely started. The car normally starts just fine but there are 2 times after I had been driving and making frequent stops and starts then the car barely turns over when I try to start it. Both times I did manage to get it started and then it ran fine and when I stopped it at home it restarted fine. Each time I also noticed that the clock had reset itself. There was a period of about 3 weeks between the two times it did this. Both days that this happened it was very hot outside. Why this is happening?
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The motor turns over but it just don't seem to have enough power to start. Have not tried to arc check from the plug wires. I believe the coil is internal on this model.
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My 1995 Toyota Camry will not start, the engine turns but does not engage. I have had the fuel pump, fuel filter, and a relay switch replaced. After each repair the car runs for twp weeks and then will not start. I have had it towed and the mechanics start the car with no problem and they are unable to diagnose the problem. In a month and a half, I have had the car towed 3 times.
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I have a 96 f350 that I just replaced the batteries on and now when I go to start it does not hardly turn over. Starter just barely turns motor over and definitely not fast enough to start truck. Battery connections are tight and starter was replaced about 4 months ago.
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05 Camry, 2.4L, 47K. Vehicle parking brake barely holds while in Drive. How is this adjusted? On my 91 Corolla, the brake adjusts itself by pulling up on the handle. The Camry does not have this feature so does this have an adjustable cable? If so, where did they hide this adjuster?
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I have a 2007 Camry SE 4C. 104K miles on the clock and no issues until now. The car has never been in the shop. I do my own work, which amounts to oil changes and I replaced the pads a few weeks ago. Yeah over 100k on the original pads and still at 30%.
About a month ago I took a freeway drive and the low fuel light came on. I was in the middle of no where so no gas stations nearby. After about ten minutes of driving at 60mph the check engine light came on. Shortly thereafter I reached a gas station and filled up. The check engine light went out. Got home and did a visual check and didn't see anything. Yesterday the low fuel light came on. This morning my 36 month battery was acting weak after 21 months. The car barely started. Got to the gas station and filled up and the battery seems to be stronger now. My theory is the low fuel light/circuitry is causing the problem.
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My wife left the lights on in the 2001 Camry and completely draining the battery. I tried to jump her but the car would not start (turns over great). Also the electrical system was strange in that the lights would not go off and other electrical items did not function. I disconnected the battery and fully recharged it and put it back on. I noticed that the "ALT" (100A) fusible link was blown and replaced it. Car still will not start (turns over great). The electrical problems appear fixed however the radio does not work. I tried to read the codes on the ODB and got "ERR". I checked all other fuses and they are good. I checked the pin-out voltage on the ODB port and was reading ~11.5V. I am wondering if I missed something like is the ECM bad? I can replace this myself for $150, but if I have it towed to a dealer it will cost me $800. Is there a way I can be sure that the ECM is bad, also are there other things to check that I may have missed. Also, when I turn the key to the "on" position, but do not start the car, the "Check engine" light does not illuminate.
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I have a 2001 Ford F150 Lariat. It has the 5.4L Triton motor. I was having starting problems as such the truck would crank and not start or crank, start and barely idle and stall within 5 seconds. It was NOT tripping any lights. I was told it was a possible fuel issue. I have since changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, as well as the hoses in the rear connected to the tank. Truck started, ran great, even seemed to have more power. Ran great for about a week. I was on my way out yesterday about 2 miles from home when the truck just stalled out on me. It is now having the same issues it was having before I changed the pump, filter, etc. What the issue may be? Clogged line? Fuel injector? If it is an injector how can I tell which one?
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My 1998 Toyota Camry with about 157k creaks esp around turns and even more with adult rear seat passengers (not my in-laws my husband's). When my dealership did a really expensive routine service on my car said the front links and bushings needed to be replaced, but after the amount they charged me I had no money left. Would fixing these fix my creaking? If not should I do replace them anyways?
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2004 camry 4 cyl. turns over slow but starts. I checked battery voltage (car not running) it is 12.6 volts. when cranking in dropped to 6.??. The post terminals and cables looked ok but I did not disconnect or remove them to check. How can I verify if it is a bad battery or a bad starter.
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I have a 1997 Toyota Camry thats leaking oil profusely. Within a week of topping oil, the oil leak light turns on. The mechanic says that leak is somewhere near the engine and he needs to tear it apart to see whats up. Estimates run upto $ 800. I am trying to extract life from the car. Is Lucas stop leak advisable?
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It turns over but won't start. also makes a metallic sound it didn't do before while cranking.I changed battery a week ago and replaced air filter right before this started.Is it related or could it still be the starter even thou it's turning?
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I have a 2001 Toyota Celica gt, and I had a accident on the front of the car. The only things needed to be replaced was the radiator and the Intake manifold.The car wasn't drivable for about 3 months, but within those 3 months I was able to work on replacing the radiator and the intake manifold ( which a crack on it). Now that I finished working on the car, the engine turns on but then it shuts off immediately. Everything was replace properly, I just don't understand.
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I just got a 1990 toyota celica and it turns over but dont start. its getting fuel up to the motor. i got it from a friend that gave up on it and he got it from a guy that replaced the 2200 with a 2000 engine. everything looks to be connected but i dont know where to start.
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My 98 corolla has set for a year plus and the serpentine belt is stuck and will not let the motor turn over fast enough to start. The battery is fully charged, the gas tank is full, the belt is in good shape. The car ran just fine the one year I owned it before sitting so long. I sprayed the belt with belt dressing. Could the alternator or something else be stuck? Should I remove the belt and then reinstall it?
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My 2002 camry has been driving poorly the last few months with extreme swaying on freeways on turns and high winds. When I took it to Toyota a while back they said they needed to replace the rear sway bar bushings. Sounded right but at the time to avoid all the costs with other repairs, brakes etc, I put it off. Now I took it to the local mech and he says he cannot see anything wrong even after driving andwhere toyota found a rear seal leak he did not pick up on this. I will take it back to toyota ..
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Nearly new Camry with 9,000 miles. When trying to get back up to speed after making right or left turns, there is a definite hesitation before accelerating. No hesitation when accelerating from a dead stop. Also transmission kicks down at very small hills/grades where if not on cruise control, it would not need to "kick down" to maintain speed. This is a 4 cylinder engine and provides adequate power when not running in "cruise". I suppose this is just the nature of the breed. Except for these two small problems, it is a fine comfortable car.
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92 tercel will not start. Replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap. Turns over ok.
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Toyota Corolla S 2009 Automatic 4 Door
Saturday I changed the starter because the old one was going out and I didnt want it to die so it was preventaive. Went to put in the sparkplugs but the dealer gave me the wrong ones, drove to the dealer and they pulled out one I had to check it and put it back in. (I had 9/16 long plugs, which is rare for my engine apparently.) I went to leave, and when I turned it over, nothing happened. I pulled the Key out, waited 5 seconds, started up. Went home, put in the sparkplugs and drove about 300 miles since Saturday and no problem.
Today I went to leave and the car turned over multiple times, after the 4th, it acted like it was starting but shut off and kept turning over.
First, I checked all the wires on the plugs and around them, even pulled all the plugs and put in the old ones. Same problem.
I unplugged the battery and hoped if it was a computer glitch that it would have fixed it. Same problem.
When I turn it over, the started keeps going and it will pretend to turn on for half a second and then keep turning over. I also smell raw gas when I get out of the car for a few seconds before it goes away.
The last time it did throw codes, but I have no reader. I have to wait for the neighbor to pull them. Is there anything I can test or check out? Everything as far as the wires and fuses look good. I am at a loss for where to go.
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I have a 79 toyota pick up, that will not run. the engine turns but does not start. It has spark, though not the best should start. The carb is old but there is gas in the engine when i try to start. compression in all the cylinders is fine. A friend thinks maybe the timing chain jumped a tooth. I cant find the bright link on it so im having trouble knowing if that is the problem. What it could be?
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On my 2002 7.3 liter for the last about 1 week it has been getting harder and harder to start. Up until yesterday when it will not start at all. What it does is this. A week ago I noticed it cranked slightly weaker but still ran perfect once started. This has progressed slowly but definitely. It has never gotten better, only worse. Even with jumper cables hooked up it does not improve at all. The starter is a Carquest POS but only has 50 thousand miles on it.
I have driven hundreds of miles with this problem in the last week and the truck has never skipped a beat aside from the starting issue. I took the batteries in to no less than 3 places and they all said the batteries are good. However when I put my multimeter on them when it is being cranked the volts drop from 12.6is down to about 8 volts. When I did get it started the other day and put a meter on it the batteries were charging up to around 13.7 or so.
When there is no load on batteries they show good but have been unable to get a solid answer if any of these places are load testing them: I am convinced they are not. I checked the resistance of the cables and they all have none. The grounds are all good. So I pulled the starter and took it in as a last result. They say the starter is good also! The connections were all tight and I cleaned them all very well.
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