Toyota - Camry :: 2001 - Shuddering And RPM Needle Waving Quickly Between 0.5 And 1.5 Rpm
Nov 22, 2013
My 2001 Toyota Camry had an oil change and 80,000 mile checkup and drove home fine. We went out of town in someone else's car the next day for the weekend. Driving to work Mon, it began shuddering and the RPM needle was waving quickly between 0.5 & 1.5 rpm. This only continued to happen when my foot was off the gas, especially when stopping. It drove fine when accelerating & higher than 45 mph. I took it back to the mechanic and & said he found that the solenoid had gone bad & affected the idle, & also that with the solenoid not working my spark plugs had been burned. He changed it all out, and it works ok now for me, but my wife had a day a week later when it vibrated when she drove over 60mph. I used it today and had no problem. Is that likely that the solenoid would go bad w/out warning and affect the idle & spark plugs that way? Should I take it somewhere else?
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The needle in temp gage on my 2005 Toyota is now facing the opposite direction. This happened right after the most recent oil change. Is this a gauge or a sending unit problem?
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Have a 2001 Corolla with 150k miles on it. It isn't straight up dying, but it is shuddering when driving at slower speeds or while stopped at a stop light. Have had the air intake looked at so that shouldn't be it. Sometimes the lights on the dash will dim when this happens but not sure if it might be a battery issue or that is just happening because the car is dying.
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I have a used Toyota Corolla 2007 that has engine problems
I bought this for $8000 in Dec 2012 and did not realize the previous owner was using synthetic oil. I used the regular oil and changed every 3 mins. At one point I started seeing a lot of smoke and the oil was burning quickly (like in a month for 300 miles). The oil change guy recommended to use synthetic oil and that should remove all the sludge. It's been a year I am using the synthetic oil and I still have the sludge issues.
I took the car to the mechanic today and he is saying the piston rings could have worn out and asking to rebuild the engine and that would cost $2800 including the taxes. My wife will be using this car to drop and pick up the kids from school. So I don't want to take any risks. Should I go ahead and rebuild the engine?
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My 1996 Toyota Corolla has started sputtering (choking?) out when I accelerate quickly (like getting on the highway) or when I get up to about 70 mph. Is this a symptom of a clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump? If so, is there a way to tell which it is before taking it to the mechanic? Or could it be something else?
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I am having a shifting issue with our 2007 Toyota Matrix (85k mi) 5 speed manual, but only when shifting from 3 to 4 and only when shifting quickly. For a week now when I need to shift quickly from 3 to 4 (such as accelerating when merging onto a highway) if I don't pause in neutral for a half second to a second I get some resistance going into 4th. There is no gear grinding noise just difficulty to put it in and then finally it gives. My wife describes it as a "ka-chunk" feel ... I'm afraid it will cost me a lot for a new transmission if that is what is causing the issue, but I've also read it might be a clutch or fluid level issue.
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A few weeks ago on a short drive, my car (2000 Toyota Corolla) started shuddering/pulsating when I was stopped at a red light (and it kept doing that intermittently as I drove the few blocks home.) Next time I tried to start it, it turned over but then died. Towed it to the mechanic, he said it was a dead ignition coil, he replaced the coil and it was able to start again.
Less than a week (and not much driving - 50 miles tops) later, on the highway, it starts shuddering again, feels way underpowered, and the check engine flashes. It's pretty scary. I pull over and have it towed to the mechanic. (It still starts up but doesn't feel safe to drive, plus the check engine light is flashing.) First he says one of the fuel injectors needs to be replaced, then he says that on further testing it was actually another dead ignition coil. He replaces the ignition coil (he didn't end up replacing the fuel injector) and I pick up the car.
It's fine on the drive home (which is about 3 city miles, no highway driving) and on another neighborhood errand, and the check engine light isn't on, but now it's sort of shuddering again. I don't want to keep driving it and/or try it on the highway to wait for it to get worse.
I guess I'll take it in again tomorrow, but does this seem odd at all? I know some people replace all 4 ignition coils at once pre-emptively, but it would seem strange for 3 to fail within ~150 miles (assuming this is yet another ignition coil.) What else might be going on? I had the spark plugs changed last year so those should be fine. The car has pretty low miles on it (about 100k) for the age.
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95 corolla 277k miles. 4 hours into a long trip went over a huge bump and the shocks seemed to "bottom out". Like they compressed as much as they could. Pulled over half hour later for a break.
After that drove rest of way home. Car started shuddering and slowing down going up a hill. Had to floor it just to get it to be 60 mph. Hill wasn't that steep. Seemed to do ok on flat parts.
Was a little low on gas so pulled over to fill up. Noticed car idled very roughly felt like it was going to stall while pulling into gas station.
Gas cap was a little loose. Didn't hear the whoosh of the vacuum you usually hear when undoing the gas cap either.
After that it seemed to be a little better going up hills. I drove it home, and a day later drove it and it seemed to go up hills ok.
It still idles very weirdly, roughly and like it's about to stall. While driving it sounds ok.
I was thinking fuel pump but now i'm not sure. It might be related to the gas cap, maybe the bump loosened it.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla XRS with a manual transmission which has developed a shudder. When this shudder started, it only occurred when accelerating at highway speeds, or maintaining highway speeds. Now it happens at lower speeds if I give it gas without downshifting, but at reasonable RPM, 3000-5000. I cannot feel the shudder in the steering wheel, but the whole car shakes, and it definitely feels like it is coming from the front end. I have had the tires balanced and rotated. I also have replaced the IACV and MAF due to a CEL. These were replaced after the shudder started. For a few days after the replacement, the CEL returned, but now I am no longer getting it.
There are no visibly obvious issues with the suspension or the drive shafts or CV joints, and the motor mounts likewise look okay. I am not getting a CEL of any kind, and I replaced my plugs 6 months ago, but I pulled them anyway, and they are not fouled. I don’t think the issue is in my suspension, steering, or wheels because I cannot feel it in the steering wheel. I don’t think my half shafts are warped because the shudder happens at varying speeds, and the instant I let off of the gas, it stops. Though this doesn’t rule them out completely, there is no clicking from the CV joints. When I brake, the car slows smoothly, so the rotors are fine. I have run injector cleaner a couple of times, and octane boost once. These both seemed to solve the issue, but did not make it stop, and it has gotten worse lately. My wife did put low-octane gas in the car once, but it was weeks ago.
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My 1985 Toyota Pickup (manual shift) is stalling out when I put the truck in neutral or don't shift quickly enough. The battery light comes on after stalling followed by the oil light. After stalling, it does start back up and repeats the same problem. If I keep my foot on the gas and the truck in gear, it runs. I'm new to DIY repairs, and bought this truck for the purpose of learning more. I know the basics, am mechanically inclined, have a repair manual, and am a quick learner.
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I never reset my avg MPG readout but this morning I did. The digital readout jumped to 99.9mpg(was going down a long hill) but the needle stayed at 25mpg. If anything I thought it would have jumped to the highest possible which would have been 60 i think.. it didn't budge. I tried resetting a few times after that and it still stayed at 25 no matter what the digital one said.. How to fix it? I seriously probably haven't reset it in almost 2 years so is it possible the needle is literally just stuck from not being reset? The mpg needle doesn't bother me that much but if that's the quality of the gauge needles I worry about the gas one quitting on me..
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My car has 219k miles and has been very loud and when i turn it on the rpm meter goes to 3 and gradually car quiets down and needle comes down to 1. While i drive the steering wheel vibrates too. I took it to the mechanic i was told that timing chain needs replacement as its about time. I was under the impression that timing chains do not need replacement.
The steering wheel vibrates (shakes) it makes light clicking sounds too. I have not been able to diagnose the problem by myself. I think these two things may not be related but engine is really loud. Does timing chain needs replacement? and if it does what else along with it should be replaced?
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I never reset my avg MPG readout but this morning I did. The digital readout jumped to 99.9mpg (was going down a long hill) but the needle stayed at 25mpg. If anything I thought it would have jumped to the highest possible which would have been 60 i think.. it didn't budge. I tried resetting a few times after that and it still stayed at 25 no matter what the digital one said.. how to fix it? I seriously probably haven't reset it in almost 2 years so is it possible the needle is literally just stuck from not being reset? The mpg needle doesn't bother me that much but if that's the quality of the gauge needles I worry about the gas one quitting on me..
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I've been having lots of electrically problems with my 2007 Camry SE v6 for the last 3 years. First, the car drains quickly if i leave the key in the ignition while the car is off. Secondly, I have gone through 3 batteries over the past 3 years. Previously, what use to happen is that my cars warning lights would start to come on such as the brakes ABS and battery lights, the head lights would be dim. Then just not start (just fast clicks when ign is turned). I would jump it and it wiukd run for a few more days and die again.
So I'd replace the battery and thing would be fine with the car for a year. Then it would start again, and i'd replace the battery and it would be good for another year. I use to buy costco batteries. This time I tried Bosch. After 4 months with the Bosch, the same thing is happening. My battery light came on, then my abs light. And now my lights are dimming. Earlier, it was just the battery light but everything, including the lights were ok. Im sure I'm sure I'm going to need to jump it next time I start the car. I took it to Toyota last time, and it cost be an arm and a leg to diagnose. They said its just a bad battery.
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I recently replaced a burnt out left turn signal bulb in my 2002 camry v6 xle. The signal light was blinking quickly. Once replaced problem fixed. Now bulb is not working again and fast flashing is back.
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i just picked up an '07 Camry XLE and every time I start the car (push start button) the horn gives me 3 quick honks. Same happens with the remote start. How to turn that off? Besides just not starting the car
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I just replaced my turn signals with LED's, so obviously the car is reacting to the LED's by flashing quickly.
My question, is there any way of slowing down the speed of the turn signal WITHOUT replacing the LED back to stock bulbs?
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Going up a hill this LS started shuddering and misfiring and set the po302 code. A small push on the accelerator sometimes seems to temporarily remedy the issue. This started about a week ago. fuel mileage : 26 mpg highway
Here's the readings I got at idle:
Fuel pressure is KOEO - 0 (That's what it read.); KOER - 30.
MAF - about 70
LT FUEL TRIM 1 - 5.5
ST FUEL TRIM 1 - STAYS NEGATIVE
LT FUEL TRIM 2 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 2 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 11 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 21 - STAYS NEGATIVE
O2 1 - NORMAL FLUCTUATES PROPERLY
O2 S12 - STAYS ABOVE .500
O2 S21 - NORMAL FLUCTUATES PROPERLY
O2 S22 - STAYS ABOVE .500
Not familiar with this vehicle...
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My 2002 2.4lt Santa Fe started shuddering under braking just after I brought it, so I got the front disc's skimmed, fixed it but 6 months later it come back, so on went a new OEM set, fixed it but 6 months later it's back again...
I'm about to skim this new set and see what happens.
Part number 81230-26000 and 81230A from partmaster
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My head lights in my Solara turn on automatically when I start the car and off when I stop the car. But now when I turn off the car the lights stay on which kills my battery unless I disconect the battery. Which is making me fail the computer part of my emission test. What is keeping my head lights from turning off?
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I have a 2005 Elantra GLS with a couple thousand miles over 100K. There is what appears to be an overheating issue with my car. When I'm driving it in city driving usually less than 45 MPH, the heater blows cold air. However, on the highway (greater than 50 MPH) it blows hot air and the temp needle stays in the normal range (just below the halfway point between hot and cold and more towards the cold). However, when I slow down and come to city speeds, the temp needle starts to rise and the heater blows cold air.
The needle went to the red zone this morning but as soon as it got to the red zone, it slowly came back down to the normal point (within 2-3 seconds). And @ the same time, the heater started blowing warm/hot air like it would be functioning normally. When the needle got the red zone, my car didn't stop or I didn't see smoke coming from the hood or anything like. It was almost like something (maybe thermostat) tripped and allowed the engine to cool.
After doing some research on this, the potential issues point to thermostat, coolant level, radiator crack. I haven't checked how the coolant level is doing but I will check that this weekend.
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