Toyota - Camry :: 2001 - Seat Belts Locking At Wrong Times Occasionally


Sep 16, 2011

Four or five years ago, our 2001 Toyota Camry (and my wife and I) had the misfortune of being in a T-bone accident when someone unexpectedly pulled a left turn in front of us and gave us no time to stop. We had the car front-end repaired at a collision repair center, and we were good to go, I thought. As I drove away, I noticed the newly replaced seat belts seemed to "lock" in place at times. They did lock at a sudden stop, as expected, but when entering the car and attempting to put on the seat belts, they would sometimes lock and release, causing me a repeated tug-of-war as I attempted to get enough slack to fasten the belt. This occurred on both the driver and passenger front belts.

Needless to say, I returned the car to the shop, and they cheerfully replaced the belts a second time. When I picked up the car, I first tested the belts, which seemed to perform flawlessly, so I drove home. My joy was short-lived, however, because on the way home, the locking problem returned. I returned to the collision repair shop yet again, and they replaced the belts a third time. The shop foreman personally tested the belts to make sure they worked, and he watched as I did the same. However, yet again, on the way home, the belts would lock unexpectedly.

Through much experimentation, I finally realized that if the car was facing any degree of a downward angle, I could pull the belts very easily and smoothly, yet they locked if I jerked the belts hard. This was as expected. If the car was level or facing an upward angle, however, pulling smoothly on the belt would result in them locking. This seemed very odd to me, and I mentioned it to the collision foreman. He immediately called Toyota to ask about it, and they had never heard of such a symptom.

So, for the past five years, I have been enduring the craziness of getting in my car and doing a repeated pull "negotiation" with the seat belt. I have also noticed that when I begin driving forward, if I will apply the brakes gently, both myself and any passenger can then easily pull the belts and fasten them while the gradual braking is occurring. It doesn't seem to be a safety issue because they do lock on a sudden hard stop, but it is counter-intuitive to me that a gradual braking allows the belts to move freely. Is it possible they could have installed the belts upside down or backwards, or something?

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I have been having problems on and off with my central locking for a while now with my 05' Toyota Camry Altise. 95% of the time it works perfectly, however occasionally the central locking will refuse to lock the doors, chirping at me twice as if a door is open. I know that all of the door switches are working fine so this isn't the cause of the problem.

I believe it may have something to do with the fact that I had to replace my driver side door a while ago, and that now the actuator may not be working properly or misaligned and jamming. What should I be looking for to make sure this doesn't occur? I thought it all went back in perfectly. Interestingly I can get around the problem by turning the ignition on and off and trying again.

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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry, I was having a noise from right rear and every now and then the car would start slowing down like I was braking. I replaced all four calipers, rotors and the pads, then bled the whole system. The noise went away, but the car still seems to engage the brakes, but only after a few minutes of driving, but then it goes away.

I thought it was a single brake line, but after not driving it for a week, yesterday I was driving it and after about 20 minutes it started again, when I pulled over all for wheels were smoking, after allowing it to sit for a few minutes, I was able to drive home 30 miles without it happening again. Would this happen with just one line bad, as someone suggested, or is this an issue with the master cylinder, bad brake fuild or something else?

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My 1997 Camry won't start off and on. It seems to do it after I've run several errands, i.e., started and stopped the car several times, and it seems to happen when the weather warms up (from the 20's, 30's to 60 degrees or so)

All the regular things have been checked (battery, alternator, starter.) I have a mechanic who specializes in imports and has lots of experience with Camrys. He thought it was the idler but replacing that didn't work. He tried putting in a computer but that didn't solve it. He doesn't think it's the gas pump because he used something to test that and it showed it was getting gas fine.

We tried the theory of "winter gas," but that doesn't seem to be it either.

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My husband noticed that our 2001 Camry was driving strange. He thought it was a problem with the brakes locking up. When I drove it, I felt like the front of the car was a little wiggly and thought we might need an alignment. When we took it in, they said that the brakes are okay, but that the front struts are "soft." They said that the front struts need to be replaced, which includes an alignment, and we should replace the rear struts at the same time. They said we should get new tires at the same time.

I've been trying to research it some, and we don't have a lot of the problems associated with bad struts. We haven't noticed any bouncing or anything like that. I think they are honest mechanics, but my husband doesn't trust them. We don't have enough money to get all that work done right now, so my question is, can we wait until we notice bouncing or the tires get worse to have the work done? (We would be trying to save up the money in the meantime.) Or, can we just take care of the front struts and wait on the tires and rear struts? Should we just get a second opinion? (The car does have 145,000 miles on it, and I've never had the struts replaced. I bought it with about 65,000 miles on it.)

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When I test the belts without latching them, I pull them out a long way and let them retract over and over, and then at some point they grab and I can't pull them out again without letting them retract all the way back to the beginning. I can hear that the ratchet is engaged when this is happening.

During the time when they do pull out and retract with no problem, if I give a sharp tug, they grab, like they're designed to do, and then let go.

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I guess this feature is standard in newer cars, but how to turn off that annoying beeper for seat belts and keys in the ignition? Perhaps there's a wire that can be cut.

After all, I know enough to buckle my seat belt and feel uncomfortable and unsafe if I do not. I don't need to be beeped at to remind me. Plus, I know when I leave the keys in the ignition and exit the car.

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I drive a 2001 Toyota Tacoma 5 Speed manual and as recently as last Friday it seems to have developed a problem with third gear. Occasionally the gearshift will actually pop out of third gear back into neutral. It has happened randomly, but also it has happened at least once when I hit a rather large bump, it seemed to have literally knocked it loose from third gear. On one occasion I tested to see if I could pull it out of third gear without stepping on the clutch, and it worked once, but I have tried it again and it doesn't always let me.

To counter this problem I have been just pushing on the stick all the while in third gear to prevent it from popping out and that seems to work, but I'd like to find a real fix for it, and as usual, if possible, a cheap one.

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I have an '05 package 2 and I am replacing the steering wheel. I found that I need to disconnect the battery to replace the airbag, I also read that it is a good idea to remove the SRS relay. Which one is the relay under the hood? additionally I am trying to remove the seatbelts to clean them how do you remove the paneling without breaking the plastic?

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Today I was on a highway traveling at 60 miles an hour. There were no cars in front or on either side and nothing on the road. My foot was on the accelerator and not on the brake. Suddenly the seat belts pulled very tight (I believe that is called "pre-tensioning") and the brakes slammed on without any input from me. The car rapidly decelerated to about 30 miles an hour. Fortunately there was nobody tailgating me. After that everything seemed OK. My vehicle is a 2013 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon) model 5 which has the technology package.

I took the car to the dealer and they checked the collision avoidance system and said they could not find a problem. The service manager said he has a Camry and it has happened to him once. They had never heard of it happening on a Prius. Apparently Toyota has a bulletin about this for the Camry, but not the Prius. They suggested I turn off the Collision Avoidance System with a switch that is under the dash.

I am not sure whether to turn it off because if I do I lose the adaptive cruise control and collision avoidance, If I leave it on this can happen again possibly causing an accident.

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1.) The rear hatch no longer beeps when open, but it also has no longer has the SKS function.

2.) The front seat belts no longer beep, but the front dome light no longer has an on-when-door-is-open function.

3) I'm waiting to see what bizarre side effects come from the single reverse beep.

The rep. says these are side effects from killing the beeps, that the nuisance beeps are tied to these two functions and that the only way to restore them is to bring back the beeps. He claims that the front beeps & dome light are triggered by a sensor inside the door that is part of the door latch, that when this sensor is disabled all its functions stop. I think he said it's the same problem with the rear hatch and its SKS.

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See my sig for truck.

I have 3 kids in the crewcab. 2 are in booster seats, and 1 still riding in a Britax. The 2 in booster seats can buckle their own seat belts in the wife's Odyssey. But they cannot buckle their own in the truck because as they try to push the 2 pieces together, the short 'female' end slides down between the seat and seatback. So I have to buckle them. Every time.

Anything to prevent the female end from sliding down? I'm thinking maybe putting a ~4" long 1-2" diameter piece of tubing around the belts. Something like that.

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