Toyota - Camry :: 2000 - Heater Core Removal
Oct 19, 2012
How difficult is it to remove and install a heater core on a 2000 Toyota Camry with 4 cyc ?
View 18 RepliesHow difficult is it to remove and install a heater core on a 2000 Toyota Camry with 4 cyc ?
View 18 Replies[URL] .... This is interesting! Too bad i just found it last night after i spent the last week removing my entire dashboard steering wheel/column. etc.
View 8 RepliesI've got my dash pulled apart but am unclear as to what I need to do with my steering wheel. I've got a 2007 F150 manual that says "remove steering column pinch bolt" along with a warning about not allowing the steering column shaft to rotate once the bolt is out. I believe I have identified the bolt (sits a few inches away from the steering shaft's u-joint on the side facing the driver -?).
How do I ensure the shaft doesn't rotate? Do I need to make the wheel lock before removing the bolt? Will the steering column drop down thereby allowing the dash to be pulled away from the firewall or do I need to remove additional bolts?
I saw this video : F150 Heater Core part 1 - YouTube
For 98 F150, but the differences in design are throwing me off a bit.
I have a 2000 F-150 5.4L 4x4. I am currently deployed and my wife has the truck. Just yesterday she told me my heater core went out again the only way she knows this is its the 4th time in just over a year. What would cause a heater core to go out so many times in a short period? What should I have my wife do? I do not want to get rid of my truck and I wont be back for another few months.
View 2 RepliesPlastic coupling between core and hose, is there a specialty to needed to remove from heater core?
View 1 RepliesCoworker's 2000 Focus's heater core started leaking on his 50m commute this morning. He is ready to donate the car at this point. Any stop leak product (i.e. Bars) that would stop the leak without clogging the cooling system.
View 5 RepliesI need to back flush the heater core in my 2000 EX with a 6.8. Looking at the outlet hose I don't see anywhere to separate it, do I need to cut the rubber section and put a flushing "T" in it ?
View 1 RepliesI just flushed my coolant. Now I got more water than coolant, and in the heater core! I got some 50/50 coolant, cause cannot find 100% Asian coolant.
View 14 RepliesTruck has recently developed a weird overheat issue. Ill try to give a s much background as possible:
I changed the heater core in the winter and that definitely cured the lack of interior heat issue the truck had since I got it. Blows hard and hot now. (I suspect I should also swap out the rear one too)
On occasional since then I have noticed the odd time a "gurgling sound" in the heater core area. Its not all the time but here and there.
Within the last 3 weeks or so I have gotten a check engine light. I've been a bit too busy to address it, and don't tend to drive very far (work and back) but have downloaded the comp and have a P0174 and P1299. Now just in the last 5 days I have noticed the temp gauge , which is normally firmly parked at about 1/3 in the zone has moved up to nearly the hot area. I can easily bring it back down by using full heat. I have cleared the codes and they haven't returned yet, but I'm suspicious of them non the less.
What can cause lean on only one bank? I have looked at the usual suspects and don't see any obvious leaks. Is it very common to have a intake gasket leak? what's the easiest way to check for that?
My rad appears in good shape although the AC condenser is pretty beat up. I'm definitely going to flush out the coolant, it looks good and used.
I cant find my original post but I am reporting back on a low heat output issue. Not the climate door. It was the heater core clogging up. Instead of replacing, this is what I did. Purchased a "drill pump" and some clear hose and some CLR. Cut both the heater hoses,taking consideration of where best to install "T" connectors.
While hoses disconnected,filled heater core with CLR(as much as I could get in it). Hooked clear hose,drill pump configuration,on to the heater hoses. Ran drill pump in both directions for several minutes and stopping and letting it sit for a few minutes.
About 1 hour all together. Pieces of debris came out of the heater core and I could see it through the clear hose. Flushed the heater core out. Installed "T" connectors and it is heating very well now.
We got our first taste of fall weather in Houston this weekend, and with it I've discovered a new problem with my truck. After the engine was up to temp, I noticed that the heater would blow cold air any time I sat at idle. If you rev up the rpm's to 1500-2000, you can feel the air start to get warm again. I'm guessing this means my heater core needs to be backflushed.
View 4 RepliesI have changed the compressor for my lumina LTZ 2001... After that a noisy sound start to appear ... And cooling stopped after a while((around a week)) they told me to change the heater core. And I changed it.After that similar sound start to appear again ... And the cooling start to be reduced gradually ...and then no more cold air..The sound appears infront of the next to driver seat.
View 5 RepliesLast week I got a hole in my lower heater coolant line and I did a quick fix and added G12 to get the car home but I got to thinking, the way I'm using this car now, I'm not so sure I need the heater.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2010 GMC 3500 Savanah van with 6.0 motor. No heat in van. Engine operating temp is normal. Heater hose into core is hot. Hose coming out is barely warm. I am of course hoping for another explanation other then blocked heater core. The truck only has 45k miles. I am ready to backflush , but wondering if there can be any other explanation. A/C works normal.
View 1 RepliesThe subjects say's it all, is there a DIY for bypassing the heater core? I already search i couldn't find it...
View 3 RepliesI may have to replace the heater core on my 1990 Celebrity. Done from under the hood, or inside the car, under the dash? How difficult is this?
View 8 Replies 2005 Ford E Series heater core is "always on"?
That is, coolant always circulate through the core, there is no "valve" that turns it on or off.
The HOT / COLD dial opens and closes a door (vacuum operated) that allow air to enter the heater core area?
I thought the air will be flushed out from the heater core over time. Heater works ok, but can hear a sloshing sound.
Does pressing the rubber heater hoses going to the firewall? Other methods? Take coolant tank cap off once in a while?
I drained all the coolant from the radiator and engine. After I fill up and bleed the air from the system. I'm very sure no air inside the engine. The next day I found have air gurgling inside the heater core. Look like have a small leak but I check all the engine, host and radiator no leaks. The last think to think is heater core and heater core host. How can I check both parts? If they leak. How hard to change? Can I DIY?
View 3 RepliesWe have a 2006 PT Cruiser. Within a year the Dodge dealer has replaced the heater core five times. They say it's a defective part each time, but I'm not so sure. Usually the core gets a leak after the car has been driven, then parked for a few minutes. When we restart it the heater core blows sending antifreeze vapor out the heater vents.
View 2 RepliesI just put a heater core in a friends passat that was running just fine, drove it into the shop. I pulled the dash and replaced the heater core and put it all back together. Everything works, starter turns over and all but wont fire. I went over everything numerous times to find anything unplugged but all looks fine. Says something about an airbag fault when you turn on the key. Would this prevent startup? what can I do?
View 6 Replies