Toyota - Camry :: 2000 V6 Cut Off While Driving / Misfiring When Restart
Oct 30, 2012
My 2000 Toyota Camry V6 died while driving the other day. At the shop they were able to start it but said it was misfiring but it didn't cut off when they were driving it. They recommended a tune-up to replace spark plugs and "wires" but admitted they weren't sure what the problem was. I haven't had a tune-up in awhile, actually not sure when the last time I had one was (if ever!). Would this cause it to die while driving?
Should I invest in a tune-up even if it doesn't fix the problem?The battery is about 3 months old. The master and slave cylinder were recently replaced (about 6 months ago), timing belt and water pump and hoses were replaced a couple of years ago.I have high miles, about 260,000 and love this car and have needed very little work and has been a very reliable car. Would love to continue driving it!!
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When going short distances, half mile to two miles, and I turn off the car it will not REstart. Dash lights come on but engine does not make a sound. No clicking, no engine trying to turn over, nothing. After the car sits for awhile and cools off it starts up with no hesitation at all. If on the road for several minutes the car does not have this problem no matter how far or how many times I turn it off and on. The battery checks out ok. Someone said it could be a ground wire loose. What do you think. Is this something I could do myself?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry CE (2.2L/V4) w/ 130,000 miles on it. Just recently I have been experiencing a stalling issue after driving on the highway for 19 miles (or 20 minutes) at a speed greater than 65 mph. As soon as I exit and take my foot off the gas the car will stall as if I just turned the key in the off position. After I pull over, turn the key in the off position and wait a minute or two, the car start right up as if nothing happening. The idle seems to be ?normal?. The engine light does not come on when this happens.
If I feel the car may stall when still on the highway after slowing down, I can shift the car into neutral and hold the idle speed high enough to continue driving. However the car will eventually stall. But again and I restart it and be on my merry way without incident. I have try switching to high octane gas, but that did not work. If I disconnect the battery for a few hours the computer reboots itself and it will take a few more trips at high speeds for this issue to occur again. I have put in a fuel injector cleaner and cleaned the butterfly value (air intake). I own an Auto Xray code scanner; however it is not showing any error codes. What this issue may be?
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I have a 4 cyl 2000 camry. I notice the smell of burning oil when I shut off the car and while I'm driving. There is no black smoke coming from the tail pipe and it uses minimal oil. I removed the spark plugs and found oil on the threads of spark plug # 2, but not on the electrode. What's up?
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I drove my car to the store today without any problems. When I started it back up again, I noticed a clicking sound. At first I thought that maybe I had turned on the turn signal or the emergency blinkers, but neither was on. I turned off the car and restarted it. The clicking restarted when I turned the car back on. I tried turning off my headlights, and the clicking got louder. I turned them back on and it got quieter.
At that point I decided to just drive home. The clicking stopped and restarted several times during my trip. I checked the oil, and it's fine. What could be making the noise?
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Just replaced the starter and battery on my old but loved 4Runner. I drove it for an hour and a half last week and couldn't restart it. Just nothing - one click I think. A friend tapped on the starter and it started...but I'm not sure whether the car just cooled down at that point. Took it to the garage and they said they couldn't find anything wrong (no surprise, right?) Now I'm afraid to take longer trips.
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I am having with my 2000 Accent GL. It keeps dying while I'm driving it then will not restart. After sitting for awhile it will start but then after a short time dies again. The first thing I did was replace the fuel filter but that did not work. Did a diagnostic scan and it threw a code for the CPS sensor. Replaced THAT and it STILL did not fix it. I reset the computer but it didn't work. The scanner didn't pick up any other codes. Next I checked the relays and they all seem to be fine. Finally, I replaced the fuel filter but the problem did not go away.
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My 1990 Toyota Corolla which I hate to retire has only 64,000 miles on it. Starts and runs but while I am driving the dash lights up and the engine shuts off and won't restart. He thinks it is the NEC (?) switch but he said he is not really sure. Spending all that money and then finding out it is not fixed would not be worth it. It also is dangerous what if I am on the expressway?
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I bought my 2012 Camry, with 12,000 miles from the Dealership in December of 2013. The car was sold as CPO, car was purchased on Dec 30... just 6 weeks ago and I have had numerous issues with the car Misfiring. When I arrived at the dealer, the CHECK ENGINE and TIRE TRACTION lights are one and the car is running very rough as acknowledged by the service techs. For the 2nd time now, I am told they are not able to recreate the problem, so they are not able to fix it.
This is my 4th Toyota and I have NEVER had this many problems with a Toyota. Did I get a lemon? Service tech says he can't fix it unless he knows exactly what's wrong. I am asking him to check the spark plugs, check the ignition coil...and his response is that they can't just go on a wild goose chase, they need to know what they are looking for. Does this sound reasonable?
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Took this car for scheduled maintenance, tuneup on 12/19. AFTER the tuneup, it started shaking when in idle or going slowly. Took it back 1/5, they confirmed it was misfiring, checked a computer code, replaced one of the coils. The misfiring went away but returned, worse than ever, last week (early Feb).
I read somewhere that replacing coils for misfiring can be just treating the symptom, not the cause. What should I do now?
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This just started. Twice so far. The dashboard brake light, ABS light and the Traction control light pop on while driving. Pull over, shut the engine off, restart and everything is OK again.
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I bought a 2005 Camry LE 2.4 4 cylinder. It was rather loud while driving, but especially while accelerating. It had error code P0420 from the beginning. It had a completely broken torque strut which I eventually replaced. Afterward since it toned down the kicking from the engine, I was able to notice that I could feel and hear the engine kicking like a cylinder misfiring. The computer gave me error code P0353 (Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction) consistently, and only a couple of times gave me error code P0500 (Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction) which went away.
I swapped the ignition coil and spark plugs around but the error code would persist on the same cylinder. The spark plugs didn't look particularly worn but I'm not experienced on what bad plugs look like. The codes persisted still, but later on P0353 went away, and the obvious kicking stopped but it still ran with a lack of power and hesitating on acceleration along with a strong smell of fuel in the exhaust. I measured the resistance of each fuel injector and all measured the same. I removed and flushed each of them with cleaner, but same situation.
What do you think? I don't get the bad cylinder code anymore but something is clearly wrong. Bad fuel injector? Bad wiring harness? Bad compression or head gasket (maybe from the movement of the engine while the torque strut was bad)? Hopefully not the computer... And could the loud noise be related to this problem or is that probably just a cracked exhaust from when the torque strut was allowing engine movement?
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The other day I got into my car and it started fine. After driving about a block it cut out. All the dash lights come on but it makes a funny sound when turned over and doesn't start. I tried jumping it but it was no different
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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My beloved 2000 Toyota Echo has started to stall intermittently. It has worked with no problems for the past 100k miles that I've owned it (purchased used with 40k already.) What happens is that while driving I hear a little click, everything shuts down for a second or so, the red idiot light lights up for a few seconds then clears.
It's never lasted more than a few seconds and everything goes right back to normal. And it's only happened maybe a dozen times in the last three months. But it makes me nervous since I have to travel over major bridges and through tunnels regularly where I live.
The stalls usually seemed to occur after the engine has heated up, but I just had an exception this morning. Since I noticed the fan never goes on after long trips anymore, I just had the thermostat replaced but that didn't fix.
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My camry with 87,00 miles stalls when I take my foot off the break at stoplights. Three certified Toyota mechanics say they can't fix it until it happens again. No one is interested in checking for clogged sensors.
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My 2000 v6 Toyota Camry has a very strong gas smell that makes my eyes water on start up. It only happens once in a while(can go for weeks with no smell) but it is actually scary when it happens and people near the car sometimes comment on the smell too. I have had my mechanic look at it but it hasn't happened while it was at the shop. What could be wrong?
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Lately, while cruising at around 60 (2000RPM), my '89 Camry (135K) will for a moment or two downshift, revving the engine to around 3000, then shift back into high. This happens on level stretches or sometimes even on downhills.
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When I am driving along in my 2000 Toyota Camry 6 cylinder, and my foot is on the gas, my car slows down by itself. When this happens it sounds like gears are changing or like when you run out of gas, (the car is automatic and the gas tank full). After this happens the car speeds up again.
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I have a 2000 Camry Solara V6 with about 108K miles on it. The car has recently started to give the following problem: The car starts without any problem in the morning and runs smoothly. There is no problem while the engine is in idle mode. The problem starts when after driving for a while I shut the engine, say for filling in gas. When I try to start the engine again the engine will start, idle for a couple of seconds and then die.
The engine doesn't keep on running in idle mode. I can keep the engine running by pressing on the accelerator and keeping the rpm above 1000. Once I drive for a few feet then the engine doesn't die even if I idle at a stop light. This generally happens only after I shut the engine after having driven the car for a few miles and then start the engine again within the next 20 minutes. The battery is in good condition. Any clues on what the problem may be?
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During our last ice storm during a nice long skid down an icy hit, I reverted suddenly back to my days one decade ago of driving a stick-shift in the ice and tried to down-shift our '98 Camry (automatic). I placed it in reverse. It stalled. The car continues to run, but the check engine light came on. I took it into the garage and they couldn't find any engine issues. They turned off the check engine light. It came back on the next day. Sometimes it sounds like the gears aren't shifting automatically as I drive (rpms run high.) Am I damaging the car by continuing to drive it?
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