Toyota - Camry :: 2000 - Stalls At Stoplights
Feb 24, 2014
My camry with 87,00 miles stalls when I take my foot off the break at stoplights. Three certified Toyota mechanics say they can't fix it until it happens again. No one is interested in checking for clogged sensors.
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Every now and then (1-2 times a week) it stalls when I come to a stop. If I catch it before it stalls and rev it over 4K then it is fine. If not, I just need to restart the car. What is causing this sporadic problem?
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry EL that has been running fine - up until about 3 weeks ago. It has developed a problem of stalling when idling, sometimes, not always. My mechanic has replaced the vacuum hose to the idle air control after finding it was cracked. It kept on stalling after that. Then he replaced the exhaust gas recycling valve assembly, but it still will stall at times. I have noticed that sometimes the engine will rev way up then way down while I'm sitting at a stop light. This morning it stalled while I backed out of a parking spot. Only 95K miles on this car, and I would like to keep it going if possible.
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My beloved 2000 Toyota Echo has started to stall intermittently. It has worked with no problems for the past 100k miles that I've owned it (purchased used with 40k already.) What happens is that while driving I hear a little click, everything shuts down for a second or so, the red idiot light lights up for a few seconds then clears. It's never lasted more than a few seconds and everything goes right back to normal. And it's only happened maybe a dozen times in the last three months. But it makes me nervous since I have to travel over major bridges and through tunnels regularly where I live.
The stalls usually seemed to occur after the engine has heated up, but I just had an exception this morning. Since I noticed the fan never goes on after long trips anymore, I just had the thermostat replaced but that didn't fix.
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Every once in a while I'll go to start my car and it will stall right away. I'll try again and it will continue to stall. If I give it gas as soon as it starts I can keep it running. Yesterday it did this when I left from work. I held the rpm's at about 1500 and after about 10 seconds the rpm's jump about 200 or 300 and it idled. Sometimes it even idles really low. About 500 rpm. I've done plugs and wires (oem), air filter, PVC, ecu coolant temp sensor, fuel cleaners every 3 or 4 months. This has happened about 6 times in the passed 4 months. Runs great otherwise b
1998 Toyota Camry, 2.2l, Automatic, 125,000 miles
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my 88 camry will start and idle fine however whenever you attempt to accelerate the vechicle the car trys to stall and hesitate badly and will not move. i have changed the fuel filter the spark plugs and plug wires i cannot figure it out. also this started out of nowere the car was driving i had been driving for about ten miles stopped at a red light and that is when the car started doing this.
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I drive a 2002 Toyota Camry. Mostly runs great! If I drive on the freeway at 60-70 mph for 30-45 minutes, when I get off on surface streets the engine starts to die. I have to keep one foot on the brake and one foot on the accelerator to keep the engine >1000rpm. When I park at my destination and park the car for 1-2 hours, everything is fine when I start up again. Happens repeatedly - not always, maybe 95% of the time. Two mechanics can't figure it out and are unable to reproduce the problem after they drive the car on the freeway.
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1990 Toyota Camry.4cyl Starts normally drives about 50 or so miles and dies. It will not immediately restart. Turn off the ignition key for a few minutes and it starts back up and may travel 1 mile or 10 miles before it dies again. It appears after the first failure the interval between stalls gets shorter and shorter until the car is left alone over night. the next day i get 40-50 miles and it stalls. I loosened the fuel line at the filter under the hood and during the period it wont start there doesn't appear to be any fuel pressure. Is there a more acurate way to test if the fuel pump is failing or the sensors that control it are?
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1995 Camry 2.2 4cyl 165,000 miles FED (not CA).
Two days ago while doing a routine oil change I noticed my kids engine compartment was real dirty as we had alot of flooding from rain a few weeks ago. I sprayed the engine with a water hose w/nozzle to clean it. At the time I didn't know any better. The car was driven without any issue briefly that day. The following morning the car was driven a distance of 25 miles without incident.
After resting 30 minutes the car was started and began to idle rough and stalled repeatedly. When I showed up to inspect the issue it had been sitting about an hour. I went for a test drive and the car ran good. About 20 minutes later iI get another call saying the car is doing it again. It was sputtering/ hesitating when I attempted to accelerate it began to stall unless I limped it along staying off the gas.
Once I got it home I started doing some research and discovered that my spraying water in the engine compartment was probably what caused the issues I was experiencing. So I began to go through the motions trying to repair. I also noticed the car ran good when cold but at operating temp it would run rough. The check engine light has not come on.
I replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor, etc... sensor, and air filter, I cleaned the throttle body port and IAC valve port with sea foam cleaner. I cleaned and tested the EGR valve & ports. Nothing has improved from my efforts.
I must of screwed something up good, since its been 2 days, it should be dry by now. I also been thinking that maybe some water got to the injectors. NOt sure if a cause, but the oil was changed right before I sprayed engine.
My course of action as of right now is.
1.Check and clean all electrical connectors
2.Replace distributor with a re-manufactured one
3.Replace upstream o2 sensor
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I have a 1995 Toyota Camry, 4 Cylinder that has just started stalling when I step on the gas after a complete stop. After that, the car will not start for over an hour and will last only a few miles after that. this has happened 3 times so far. I have changed out the fuel pump but that did not do the trick.
I also noticed that when it was cold this past winter and I was on the highway the temperature would decrease a lot. But regular city driving the temperature seemed fine. Well now that it's warm again, the car shuts off at just above the halfway mark. So this morning I changed out the Thermostat and now it's running hotter than ever, the heat does not work at all, and the car will not start. (it started up fine after the thermostat install but the engine temp was high and heat was not blowing warm) I'm hoping it's not a bigger issue.
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My 2000 v6 Toyota Camry has a very strong gas smell that makes my eyes water on start up. It only happens once in a while(can go for weeks with no smell) but it is actually scary when it happens and people near the car sometimes comment on the smell too. I have had my mechanic look at it but it hasn't happened while it was at the shop. What could be wrong?
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Lately, while cruising at around 60 (2000RPM), my '89 Camry (135K) will for a moment or two downshift, revving the engine to around 3000, then shift back into high. This happens on level stretches or sometimes even on downhills.
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When I am driving along in my 2000 Toyota Camry 6 cylinder, and my foot is on the gas, my car slows down by itself. When this happens it sounds like gears are changing or like when you run out of gas, (the car is automatic and the gas tank full). After this happens the car speeds up again.
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I just bought a 2000 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder with 150K miles. It drove great for a week. Now it wants to cut off when I'm at a stoplight or stop sign. When I press the gas there is no acceleration and very sluggish. This is when it wants to cut off and does about half the time. At normal driving speeds it drives great. The Check engine light also came on. Advance Auto Parts store read the codes and it's P440, p441, p446 and P106. All have to do with evaporative emission control.
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Toyota Camry 2000 , 195,000 miles
Last couple of months or so, my vehicle would intermittently stop accelerating, especially when climbing hills. A couple of days ago, the vehicle is completely unresponsive when pressing down on the gas. The vehicle revs, but won't go forward. It will only go in reverse. Everything else is working in the vehicle.
I went ahead and put about a half quart of transmission fluid. Still nothing.
Other information: the vehicle has been leaking engine oil and transmission fluid for the last several months.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry that has a unique problem. The Check Engine light NEVER comes on even when first starting the car. I have access to a scanner and know that the car periodically throws a catalyst code but the light never comes on. I just assumed that the bulb was burned out.
Today while solving a non-working clock issue I had to take the instrument cluster to get to the clock. While I had it out I decided to check the Check Engine Light bulb. It looked fine so I took I replaced it with a bulb that I knew worked fine. Again, nothing. The bulb doesn't light at all. About 4 weeks ago my timing belt broke while driving (non-interference motor) and it threw a code for the camshaft position sensor but again the light never came on.
Why the light never comes on?
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My 2000 Toyota Camry is making lots of noise.My mechanic says, the exhaust is leaking and costs $566. Is this something I should change or can go on without any repairs.
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How difficult is it to remove and install a heater core on a 2000 Toyota Camry with 4 cyc ?
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2000 Toyota Camry le v6 .... When I first start my car it runs rough after about 5 to 10 minutes it runs fine. I have no check engine light on. I used sea foam and the problem went away for a couple weeks then it came back. I have about 30k on my spark plugs.
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I've got a 2000 Toyota Camry with about 120,000 miles on it. We bought it used in 2012 and it's been a great car except it makes a wha-wha-wha noise when driving. The sound speeds up as the car speeds up and becomes a whine at highway speed. The noise can be heard from both outside and inside the car and sounds like it is coming from the front of the car. About a year ago I took it to a mechanic and he said that he drove it as did another mechanic in the shop and they couldn't even hear the noise. The noise now seems to be getting louder. I think it is probably a wheel bearing and it is time to take it to a different mechanic.
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A couple days ago I saw that my Toyota Camry was overheating, the gauge was going about 3/4s of the way and then returning to normal. I had then replaced the T-stat but noticed the fans were not running, so I replaced the relay as it tested bad. The fans then started to work when the A/C was turned on, but I noticed the car was still going 3/4s of the way then returning to normal.
So, I took it to a mechanic and looked for his opinion on it, he tested it and said that everything is working fine and when the engine gets hot enough the fans kick on, bit the gauge still hits 3/4s hot and then returns to normal. My mechanic said that he has seen this before in other car models and that everything is working as intended. I was just wondering if this is a common occurrence with some cars? Or should I look for other possible problems? I've never personally owned a car that looked like it was overheating then quickly corrected itself.
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