Toyota - Camry :: 2000 - Slightly Overheating / Gauge Was Going About 3/4 Of The Way
Nov 6, 2013
A couple days ago I saw that my Toyota Camry was overheating, the gauge was going about 3/4s of the way and then returning to normal. I had then replaced the T-stat but noticed the fans were not running, so I replaced the relay as it tested bad. The fans then started to work when the A/C was turned on, but I noticed the car was still going 3/4s of the way then returning to normal.
So, I took it to a mechanic and looked for his opinion on it, he tested it and said that everything is working fine and when the engine gets hot enough the fans kick on, bit the gauge still hits 3/4s hot and then returns to normal. My mechanic said that he has seen this before in other car models and that everything is working as intended. I was just wondering if this is a common occurrence with some cars? Or should I look for other possible problems? I've never personally owned a car that looked like it was overheating then quickly corrected itself.
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At idle, on hot days (90+) after about a minute, the A/C cuts out and the temp gauge begins to rise. Gets about 3/4 of the way to the red zone, but never reaches it. I changed radiator cap, but still does it. Fluid level is fine; no coolant leaks that I can see. Called a mechanic and asked about a radiator flush. He said he'd do one, but it probably wouldn't work and I should just bring it in for a diagnostic.
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I have a 2000 Silverado 2500 HD, 6 liter engine. The transmission warning gauge has been showing it's overheating. I changed the filter and fluid and the gauge still shows red warning.
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Have a 2000 subaru outback 2.5l, automatic, with about 245k, I replaced the thermostat,water pump, the radiator and the car is still overheating. both fans are working. no leaking coolant. Maybe this is related- over heats mostly when driving on the highway. But if a shift the gear to neutral and coast for a minute the shift back to drive the temperature gauge goes down. Whats wrong, running out money fixing the car, but love it driving it in the snow.
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Car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
When going at the desired speed (say 40mph) and there is lots of coasting room, I just let go off the accelerator and the car basically coasts. The engine RPM drops from 1600-1800 down to 900-1000 and it actually can coast a long way. Sometimes, I need to go faster (if I'm initially started at a slower speed) and when I press the gas pedal slightly, the tachometer shows the engine rpm jumps from the coasting 900-1000 to 1600-1800.
Is the tachometer (add on by ScanGuage) reporting it correctly? Is this a bad form of acceleration for the engine?
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I have a 2000 Corolla CE with 48k miles that I bought 2 months ago. I took it in for an alignment and balance because it was pulling to one side and the steering shakes slightly at 70mph.
The before measurements was this:Left Front:Camber: 0.0Caster: 1.2Toe: 0.17
Right Front:Camber: -0.7Caster: 1.6Toe: 0.28
Front Total Toe: 0.45Steer Ahead: -0.06
Rear Left:Camber: -1.0Toe: 0.50
Rear Right:Camber -0.7Toe:-0.04
Rear Tota
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I have a 2001 toyota camry ce in Miami, fl which is overheating. the fans seem to come on only if i turn on the a/c. however the temperature still rises and gauge needle hits red. if on idle the fans never come on. observed fluid inside radiator with cap off and it does not run through while on idle with a/c off, it just gets hot. changed thermostat and added new 50-50 antifreeze, still same. I'm suspecting a switch but why is fluid never running even when hot? I even drive it with hood open (unlatched) to let a bit more air in and still overheats, even with a/c on and fans running (again, they only turn on with a/c on), it overheats.
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2006 Toyota Camry 4 Cyl Manual Transmission. I'm getting a PO017 code - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit Low Input.
The dashboard temp gauge reaches a red H at low speeds. After about 15 minutes of driving, the car overheats and shuts down when the car slows down. I wasn't at home and didn't have coolant, so I put water in the coolant reservoir. 15 minutes later at home, the car overheated and shut down. The water in the reservoir was boiling and steaming.
When the car is idle, the radiator fan turns on immediately. I noticed the passenger side fan doesn't run. Could the one fan be the problem?
I was also really low on oil and added oil. There's oil on the engine block too. I might have multiple problems at the same time. See pics. [URL] .....
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I know the alternator needs replacing but why are the fan relays not working correctly. Also, the top radiator hose is really hot? I replaced the thermostat as well as the coolant reservoir? I also replaced a couple of the fan relays from my older wrecked Camry. Would the noisy alt that is going out have something to do w/the fans and fan relays not working properly?
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So i replaced everything, Crack pipe, thermostat, greentop CTS, water pump... still getting 1 or 1.5 bars past the vertical in traffic after about 10 minutes...
The fans work... atleast they are both on when i shut off the car...
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My Camry seems to be overheating. When I'm driving the gauge maintains and reads 6/10, when the engine is idling, it goes upto 8/10, radiator fans kick in and then temperature goes down to 6/10 and keeps cycling over a period of 5 mins.
It's got 100K miles, water pump has not been replaced yet.
I checked the hose temperature; top hose 210 F, bottom hose 192, fans kick in when top hose is around 215 F.
I checked the engine temperature where the sender is installed and it was reading 205 F. Coolant level is OK. I burped the system. Previous owner told me, he had thermostat replaced by dealer.
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I was slightly overheating in traffic, watching the gauge creep up a little. So i bought a new fan, swapped it in this morning, and still no Big Fan.
Fuses on top of the battery are all good. Does this mean my FCM is gone?
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Filled the gas tank as full as I could get it. Done this many times. Now the fuel gauge is stuck on (F) full.
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I've owned this Toyota Camry 2004 LE for two years now and this issue started couple of weeks ago , I the tempreture gague is always at cold , mean less than 25% . where it used to be always in the middle and at the 50% right in the middle . heat still works , have not tried AC yet , it is still in the 20-30s here in Minnesota . I am suspecting maybe a thermostat or some other heating cooling sensor somewhere .
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I've been having frequent problems with my car.
Here's the information about it:
200,000 miliage
engine light is on when key is in ignition, but goes off when car starts up
Four cylinder engine
Here's the problem:
Car stalls intermittently
when it is about to stall, when i slow down, car putters a bit, and RPM gauge shakes wildly
when coming to a complete stop, car shuts off completely, and when trying to start back up, engine chokes.
Temporary solution:
I put the car in neutral and floor the gas pedal, then the car works again.
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My 94 Camry 4 cyl fuel gauge seems to be broke. It always shows empty. The "fuel warning" light doesn't come on however. The last time it worked, I had about 1/2 tank and filled it up. It took several minutes for the gauge to creep up to full. It worked for a few days and then when i started the car this evening, the gauge showed empty and tays on empty.
What is the most likely issue here? I've read that it could be the sending unit, bad wiring or the gauge itself. All other dashboard gauges are working fine.
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On my 2000 toyota celica I have no dash lights Including no fuel gauge level indicators. I can not find any bad fuses unless there is another hidden fuse box somewhere...
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So to start off, its 10 degrees here with a -7 degree windchill. With that in mind, I was driving home just now from dropping off a friend, and noticed my engine temp was slightly about 190. Didn't think much of it, but within a mile down the road the temp was crossing the final line before the red 260 degree line. I pulled over and let it get down to 190 (luckily didn't take long) but in the next 3 miles home it rose again, then fell, and then rose again as I drove through my neighborhood. I'm thinking maybe the thermostat is going bad...? There's no way it went from normal operating temp to almost overheating as cold as it is....
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Me and my fiancee have a 2013 Camry SE and we've been having issues with our fuel gauge... It randomly will just stop working... First time it happened she just got in the car from work and it was at empty. When she got to work it was at half a tank... It took about 20-25 minutes of driving for it to slowly reach back to half a tank.... What could/would cause this malfunction?? And then today on her way to work it did the same thing..
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The needle in temp gage on my 2005 Toyota is now facing the opposite direction. This happened right after the most recent oil change. Is this a gauge or a sending unit problem?
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Noticed a slight flickering of my guage lights recently. All other lights in the car as well as all screened displays are stable and do not fluctuate. I've raised and lowered the instrument dimmer control which functions as it should to no avail. Voltage of left battery is to spec so I assume the alternators output is OK.
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