Toyota - Camry :: 2000 - Driver Side Window Quits On Way Up / Partially Closing
Jan 16, 2013
2000 Camry XLE. Driver's el.window quits on way up, but will start again if I wait for one or more minutes before retrying. The longer I wait, the farther up it will go. Not fun at toll booths on rainy days. Started a few month ago when I forgot to close windows and the controls got rained on. Initially, a blast of WD40 seemed to cure the problem, but no longer. Took arm rest controls out, but couldn't see any obvious problems. Is this an aging motor problem? Do I have to get ripped off by dealership serv. dept., or can any reputable garage do it? I'm worried about taking the whole panel off myself. Don't have the tools to do so, and don't want to rip "leather."
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I guess the roof needs adjustment since my driver side door won't close if the window is up all the way.
Checked the roof and found there is a larger gap on the passenger side than on the driver side. That causes the unevenness of the roof, I think.
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I have a 2000 Chrysler 300M. Recently I got in the car and shut the door normally, not a hard slam or anything, and the driver side window just shattered to pieces. After having the glass replaced I had my mechanic check out the window regulator thinking that may have have been loose or in some way caused the glass to break. It checked out fine, no problem with the mechanism could be found. I've been using the window since then for about 3 months with no problems. What could have caused this window to crumble?
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2006 Solara. When opening driver side door it makes a very loud clicking noise at the 1st and also at the 2nd stop. Same thing when closing the door.
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1 week ago I changed low beam bulbs(one was out).
1 week ago $2 tire pressure gauge fell through the slots on the left side of the trunk inside, I have tried to reach it, but to no avail(touched wires, which goes to the rear/stops driver's side several times).
Today I noticed one of my side markers was not working, I turned on lights, tried to change bulb in it and as of now neither marker nor left front light(that small upper bulb in bigger bulb slot) nor rear lights work.
Low and high beam are ok on both sides.
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After running highway speed then stopping, the EBP valve is partially closing as you accelerate back up to speed. You can hear it in the sound of the motor, and you can see it on EGT's, which are rising quickly. This happens briefly then corrects. We unplugged the EBP sensor and the problem continued. Tube is clear.
If I monitor the EBP sensor, what values should I see if it is functioning properly?
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I drove and opened the windows. I came to a stop and tried to close the windows but passenger window wont go up. the lights radio speedometer and everything work but windows still wont go up. i tried the switch on the passenger door also. no luck.
I accidentally pressed the window lock.
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Where I can find an electrical schematic for the driver's door window? It recently stopped going up and down, and I want to pull the switch panel out and test the switch before yanking the whole door panel to test the motor. I just need to figure out which connector pins should get tested for continuity.
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09 SE--> I'm getting streaks inside the driver side front window whenever it goes down. The streaks wipe off easily, it's just annoying to have to do it every time I move the window. They aren't straight across and aren't in the exact spot every time, but the same general area. I'm guessing it's coming from one of the seals inside the door, I don't have to take the door skin off more than I need to: simply clean them or all-out replacement.
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The window is running very slow and almost doesn't make it to close. Is there any way I can extend the life of this window?
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Truck was sitting for a month, now drivers side power window has quit working. tried switching circuit breaker. can hear clicking sound in switch and lights dim but the window will not roll down. All other electrical is working fine.
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2002 accent with the driver window stuck down. I have the door panel off and when i look up I see the pulley with the cable balled up and two cable ends hooked to nothing.
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Recently i just noticed that my window is scratching against something inside my door when it goes down. It sounds like a rolling plastic wheel is scratching my window leaving Marks and noise.
I'm thinking about talking to Toyota about this. It's a 2011 SE camry, I bought it in July 2010.
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Having problem with the front electric window sliding out of it's track? My friend's 2001 Accent has been doing this with the driver's window when going up. It gets between about 1/4 to 1/3 closed and suddenly the glass jumps slightly left out of the track on the right-hand side of the door frame.
The drivers door is on the right, it's the tallest part of the door frame it's jumping out from. If the glass is pushed right by hand it pops back into the track and the window can be closed normally.
I've had the door card off and can't see anything broken with the window regulator. With the window down it's possible to rock the glass left and right so something is obviously loose or not holding as it should be, but I can't find any loose or broken clips where the glass is attached to the white plastic thing which holds it onto the central regulator rail, it all looks intact.
I was expecting to find something broken or slack which could be causing this but I really can't.
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My driver's side window stopped working. Does it need new electric motor or is it a common electrical connection or wiring issue. How to take the door panel off?
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My rear windows, driver's side mostly was stuck...on and off, mostly off...since I bought Kitacamry 2 years ago, and discovered this...(for search engine users the title identifies potential sources for the problem)...
The windows were so snug that they stuck to the rubber if not used much, and here in south Florida they're hardly used, and often would not roll down...sometimes they would but not always...dealers thought it was the motor, or the regulator or the switch...and who could blame them?
I've discovered that it's not the regulator, and that the motor was just not strong enough to "break the seal" of the rubber.
I recently had a regulator repaired (a screw was loose) and noticed that the shop sprayed the rubber with silicone and that made the window glide much more smoothly...soooo....
I sprayed the other windows' rubber seals...and WOW....all open and glide down and up smooth as silk...If your windows are stuck....give silicone spray a shot...
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Just purchased a used 2003 camry 2.0G A/T. The driver's side window slides down well when using the auto button, but gets stuck 1/4 way on the way up. Have to wait a while before holding the button to slide it up all the way. What might be wrong and how I can correct?
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Passenger window......When I try to close the window with drivers side switch, the windows hits the top then automatically reverses, and stops halfway. If I close it with the passenger switch, it remains closed.
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I have a 2004 camry with 107k miles. The power drivers window makes a pop when leaving the seal. I have cleaned out the track, lubricated with silicone spray, but this did not solve the problem.
When I put a little pressure on the top of the window with my hand it comes down fine without popping.
I am thinking it may be a track issue. It appears the window is shifting 1/4-1/2 " to the front just before it contacts the seal.
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My wife and I recently purchased an 02 Camry. Last night the drivers door stopped opening from the inside and outside. Then we noticed the window was getting stuck rolling down and when I pushed down a bit the door popped open! Happened a couple times before the window got stuck.
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At times, not often but on my 04, when I turn headlights on, the drivers side front window will go down, and when I work the switch to make it go up, the passenger side front window will go down.
I don't have a wiring diagram for the car, so tracing the circuits would be next to impossible.
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