My 99 Camry solara is hissing when I start the engine and doesn't go away until the car is shut off ---- then it hisses a few seconds more, then quits.The heating / cooling isn't on and I just had the oil changed yesterday at 227,000+ miles. What this could be?
View 4 RepliesI recently purchased Toyota Camry Hybrid -2008, pre-purchase inspection done by Toyota dealer. Today, my car refuses to turn ignition on (I have keyless start). After several trials, it turned on. I switched off the car and tired after 5 mins. Again it gave the trouble first time, worked second time. What could cause this issue? It's still under hybrid warranty.
View 5 RepliesThis is about my mother's 2005 Camry (4 cyl., about 21,000 mi.). She called this evening and told me that the engine kept going for more than a minute after she shut it off. She didn't notice any problems with the engine while driving, only when she shut it down. I assume that the car has an electronic ignition, so I'm puzzled. The transmission parking rod was just repaired, but I don't see how that would be related. I suggested that she fill half-empty tank with premium gas from a national brand.
View 11 RepliesJust picked up my Avalon and the drivers side front door doesn't want to shut. It will latch but won't close all the way. If you give it a hard slam it will. All other doors shut with a gentle push.
View 2 RepliesThere is an air leak and hissing sound at the connection of the master cylinder to the brake booster. Brake pedal travels nearly to the floorboard before engaging the brake. What is the problem and how can I fix it myself? (Special note: the brake fluid was very low and is now topped off to the maximum level . Adding the brake fluid caused very little change to the brake pedal travel.)
View 5 RepliesThe car cranks absolutely 100%, in no way is this the battery, it just will not start. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't shutting off, I only had a quarter tank in the car, I figured as hot as it was today I was getting some vapor lock with the fuel. Went and got some gas, still wouldn't start, then the dash started yelling at me telling me I have no oil pressure, shut off the car.........car you are not running calm down. So then there's that along with the car not starting. I took the fuel hose off to make sure I was getting fuel, I was, so I took the key back out, but the car would not give up, the fuel pump kept going and the dash was blinking violently. When I put the hose back on and got compression it finally stopped, that can't be how the cars work can it? The fuel pump doesn't shut off if there's no compression? Checked all fuses and the fuel pump relay, every was fine, the fuel pump even still ran with the relay out. What could be going on, I can't seem to find one damn thing even related to the fuel pump not shutting off.
View 24 RepliesSo, I decided to re-code the car such that the radio does not shut off when I turn off the engine (KESSY) but rather when I open the door to get out. It's accomplished by recording the instrument cluster to think it's a UK cluster. Well, when I did that the area that usually displays the outside temp is displaying my speed in KPH. I changed the coding back to US and it didn't work. The temp is displayed if I choose to have the car stats displayed like miles till empty and such but that's not usually what I have displayed. Funnily enough, I do like knowing what the outside temp is.
View 17 RepliesI have an 1999 Cavalier that I got inspected in July so I'm good until next July. I had a small welding job done on the frame so it would get the inspection sticker for this year, but I'm thinking that by next year, I'll have paid enough off of my Liberty and be able to take on another car payment. In the meantime, the Cavalier has 214,000 miles on it and has something weird happening. Occasionally, I will get into the car and turn the key to start it and it makes a sound in what I think is the engine compartment.
It almost seems as if there is a small explosion in the engine and the car doesn't start. Then, I turn the key again and it starts up without a problem, no boom. This actually happened again yesterday and I'm writing now so I don't forget "how" it happened. I stopped at the school to pick up my son and shut off the car to go in. I picked him up, got in the car and that is when it happened. I had just come from my house which is a mile away, so it was a short drive to get him. I keep thinking that maybe one of the cylinders has some gas in it that is igniting when I try to start it, but not sure what could cause that. It doesn't happen all the time though, just once every couple of weeks.
Also, this car has over 200,000 miles on it and I do not believe I have ever changed the antifreeze in it. It is the orange kind that is supposed to be good up to 100,000 miles and, yes, I should have had it changed a long time ago, but I have never had any problems with it overheating or starting in the winter time so I didn't worry about it. Again, this is only once a month or maybe every few weeks, but I'll see the coolant light come on. I don't want to take this to the shop and pay them to replace the coolant, so I'm thinking I'll either do it myself. My question is...should I drain it and replace with orange coolant, green coolant, or just top it off with water?
So my auto locking hubs have not been working for a couple years and I have just been locking them manually as needed. But now I have a boat and I like putting the truck in 4x4 at the landings just for added safety. It's difficult to manually put the truck in and out of 4x4 for just a few minutes when I know I have auto hubs. Plus I recently got aftermarket rims and they cover the manual locks, which can be accessed with a screw driver, but again, tough.
So today I bought the vacuum solenoid valve, whatever its called, and installed it, and they work! But the vacuum pump will not shut off while the 4x4 is engaged. The auto hubs work, my a/c controls work, everything works fine, the only symptom is the pump not shutting off. My a/c stays right where I put it, it doesn't go into defrost or anything, not even for a second, like it used to when my solenoid first started failing. Is the pump running normal? Or is there a leak on the other side of that solenoid? Should I even worry about it if everything else is working?
I have a Camry 99, LX 2.2L (99k miles on it) that just died while I was puling out of my driveway. Unfortunately, it wont start anymore. I had problems with alternator for the past 2 years. Last year I just replaced the alternator and the battery. It all went well after that. A check engine light for EGR Valve came on, replaced the valve but the light comes back after 30 mins. Anyway, the car runs so I ignored the check engine light. Then this problem occurred. Before going to the alternator replacement again, I first did a tune up.
Replaced all 4 plugs, high tension wires, and the coils. The engine seems to choke at first start, then the rest of the trials are the same old cranking. The battery seems ok, pulls 13.8v when the engine is not running (I couldn't make it start anyway). I could not check the engine light too because the engine wont start. I may say I'm the guy who do small repairs, changed my own timing belt and water pump and do my own oil changes. But this one caught me on a dead end.
My 1995 Toyota Camry will not start, the engine turns but does not engage. I have had the fuel pump, fuel filter, and a relay switch replaced. After each repair the car runs for twp weeks and then will not start. I have had it towed and the mechanics start the car with no problem and they are unable to diagnose the problem. In a month and a half, I have had the car towed 3 times.
View 4 RepliesMy 2003 Toyota Camry LE has been running fine. Recently I parked the car somewhere for about 5 minutes and when I returned the car would not start, i.e. when I turned the key in the ignition the engine would not engage. I called the tow truck. The tow truck driver takes a look and tells me that she can hear the engine trying to kick in. She thinks the battery is fine, the alternator is fine etc. etc. So she pops the hood, takes a long metal rod, places it on the starter and gives it a couple of gentle taps. Then she asks me to start the car. I do and it works. She tells me that the starter was stuck and that what she did freed it up.
The car runs okay now but I am concerned as to whether this could be a sign of things to come. Should I take my car in the get the starter looked at or maybe replaced? The dealer says that a new starter will run me 350 bucks but also said that I don't need to come in unless it happens again. What does the community think? Do I have a problem or was it a one off thing that I can ignore for now? And I don't know if its important or not but the weather here has been starting to get colder lately. Could that be responsible in any way? I have about 81000 miles on this car.
I drive a 2002 Toyota Camry v6, and when I brake over abnormal surfaces the car doesn't stop, it just keeps rolling making that rippling sound.
One time we went through and intersection on a green light and another car coming across almost hit us because the ABS kicked on and our car wouldn't stop. It barely missed us.
I heard that I could remove a fuse or something that would disable the ABS. Which fuse can I pull ? Are there any other ways to disable ABS?
My wife just called who is out of town. The engine light just came on our 1999 Toyota Camry. The car is driving fine, the car temp is very normal. Is it critical to get it checked our right away? Or can we wait until she gets home? Is it OK to drive around? She is 70 miles from home visiting for a day and a half and will come home tomorrow.
View 5 RepliesI'm having a problem with my 2003 Camry LE V6. It started when the CD play stopped working, and rather than going to the dealer I just bought an OEM one on craigslist. It works great, except now when I take the key out of the car after about 30 seconds the electronics shut off completely. Dome light goes out, map lights don't work, keyfob doesn't work, etc. As soon as I put the key in the car and turn it to ACC or ON everything comes back, but if I take the key out I lose power within 30 seconds or so.
I am assuming this is a security feature because there is likely a mismatch in codes between the original, and new radios.
I have 2010 Toyota Camry, whose battery was replaced about 2 months ago. The oil was changed about a month ago also. Two days ago i was driving out of my gyms parking garage and 5 minutes into the drive my car completely shut off in the middle of traffic. It happened as soon as i hung up the phone while talking to my husband on a car speaker system. The car would not turn on, my dashboard looked like a rainbow with all the warning lights on, the windows worked, there was no sound coming from the car even when i tried to turn it on. I called AAA to have a wrecker move my car from the middle of traffic, and they stated there were no available wreckers, that i would have to wait 2 hours...so finally push the car into a drive way. So about 20 minutes pass by while I am waiting for my husband, and all the sudden I am able to turn my car on. I drove my car all the way home with my husband behind me ( 30 minute drive) with no problems. I still haven't had a problem but now I am paranoid that it might happen again.
View 3 RepliesI have a 4 cyl 2000 camry. I notice the smell of burning oil when I shut off the car and while I'm driving. There is no black smoke coming from the tail pipe and it uses minimal oil. I removed the spark plugs and found oil on the threads of spark plug # 2, but not on the electrode. What's up?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Toyota Camry SE 4 cylinder. When I turn on the headlight sometimes the light from the shifter doesn't light up. I have to tap it a few times for the light to come on. This happens to the passenger side low beam as well. When I turn on the light sometimes the passenger side low beam doesn't light up I have to go out and tap the headlight a few times for it to work. What can be the cause?
View 2 Replies2006 Camry. Last winter, I ran into a pile of snow and got stuck. I accidentally switched gears from R and D without going to neutral and this is when the issue started. When I switch to Park, it won't hold anymore, it rolls (when uphill); I have to use the handbrake all the time. By the way, I have no issue starting the car, when it is in Park position.
View 10 RepliesI have recently been having a problem with my Toyota Corolla. It starts up fine in the morning, but after a couple of hours of driving with the A/C on and the running lights (which are always on), and the radio, when I shut the car off, it will not start without a jump. With my heavy duty cables it starts instantly with the jump but then I am afraid to turn it off again. It has a genuine Toyota battery that has the dots removed saying it was installed Dec. 2012 although it looks older. After driving for a couple of hours the battery should be fully charged right? Or, does having the A/C and lights on suck up to much juice?
View 1 RepliesMy 1995 Toyota Tacoma won't start every time I turn the key. Sometimes it starts right up, but recently, more often than not it just gives a single click when the clutch pedal is pressed in just about all the way.
I replaced the neutral safety clutch switch and it started every time for about a week, then it went back to not starting reliably.
I'm growing tired of making sure I park on a hill each time I park.