Toyota - Camry :: 1998 V6 - Flapping / Knocking Noise After Driving For 5 - 10 Minutes
Jan 4, 2012
I have a 1998 Camry V6 with 165000 miles. I had brake pads and rotors replaced on all four tires. Two days later, I noticed a flapping/knocking noise apparently coming from the rear of the car. It only happens after the car as been driving for 5-10 minutes. The noise increases in frequency as the speed of the vehicle increases and is unaffected by braking or bumps and gets louder the longer the car is driven. I took the car back and they re-checked all the brake installations and said everything was fine and the noise was nothing to worry about (of course I had to convince them that there really was a noise). They also said they inspected the tires and didn't find anything wrong. I have jacked the car up and looked under all tires and don't see anything close to the tires that could be hitting them. It sounds like a strip of rubber hitting a metal pan. I see no loose plastic guards or mudflaps. The tires were all replaced less than 2 years ago and they have been rotated regularly and visually appear to be in good shape.
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2007 Camry LE 186K. Car is making a noise like a plastic panel is flapping when driving 55 mph. Sounds like its from the center or console area.
The splash pan is secured with all fasteners, the aluminum heat shield was remove due to looseness. The wheel well seems solid and the front grill panels are tight.
I have moved the heater/air controls to different setting but no change on the noise. I have ramps but that limits what I can look at.
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I have a 98 Toyota Camry, when I drive it for about 30 minutes both radiator hoses expand and seems like they want to burst.I removed the thermostat but still acting the same. Seems like the car is building a lot of pressure from the engine.. What could this be? Already replaced the water pump and have a new. radiator... The car does not overheat with or without the thermostat.
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My '03 Ranger started making a knocking noise last summer after 15 minutes of driving but only when the temp. outside is over 80 degrees or so. It stopped during the cold months but has resumed this summer. It is a low knocking sound and a) the vehicle must be moving, b) it has to have been moving for 15 minutes or so and c) it must be over 80 degrees outside. I can feel it under my feet and thru the steering wheel but mechanics say that they don't hear it and can't find it because they are getting into the vehicle after it has had a couple of minutes to cool down. Mechanics tell me that they have checked the universal joint and that it is fine. I need a brave mechanic to drive along side of me in another vehicle, going 45 miles per hour for 15 minutes and then they need to jump over into the driver's side and take over the wheel (like in the movies) so that maybe we can find what is making the noise. It makes this noise whether the vehicle is in 4wd or 2wd or the A/C is on or not.
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I have a 1998 Toyota Camry , whenever I start it after its been sitting for 3 or more hours the rpm's shoot up to2,000 and stay there for 3-4 minutes straight, if I hit the gas they don't go down, if I turn my heat on they come down a little bit.
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I've noticed a few times now on my wife's car when I am driving it around 80 mph there is a some-time flapping or low-thumping noise from underneath the car. It only happens up around 80 mph. My wife says it's a feature to let me know to slow down . I originally thought maybe I had a plastic bag trapped under the car or some loose trim but looking underneath hasn't turned up anything. The only other thing I can think of is maybe it's just a strange aerodynamic quirk of the car that causes the noise.
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What makes a flapping noise in the engine when car is started/restarted? It sounds like a dull slam of a fabric covered lid, slamming shut!
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Just recently purchased a used Toyota Camry , i love it. So far everything is great about it, only negative part is that i feel when i turn the steering wheel like a knocking sensation and you can also hear it. Its not the normal grinding sound other people are experiencing. It feels like theres something loose in the steering column. Also while I am driving i can hear like a thump on the right front suspension. normally this sound when i am going over bumbs. Is this like the shocks or something?
Just in case i have a 2008 Toyota Camry SE.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Camry. I started hearing this knocking noise(really loud pop) from the rear. I have read the TSB's about a knocking noise coming from the "Spring Bumper" from the strut assembly and they are all facing the correct way. And there was also a TSB for a knocking noise from the "Roof Structure." The dampening bonds come apart and makes a knocking noise. I've replaced a strut mount in the right rear and that did not fix the problem.
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Had very cold weather the past few weeks. Took my car out early in the morning last Thursday (after warming it up) and there was a loud squealing noise from the heater for about 2 minutes when I was driving five minutes from my driveway. Since then, I have this faint squealing noise that can be heard anytime that heater is on. It loud on the first two settings.
Took it to Toyota and they said it was normal due to the cold but from past cars I've owned, it looks like the blower motor could be on it's way out? Can this be true? Car has 11,000 miles on it.
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I drive a 2012 SE V6 with 1600 km in it. Literally brand new car, two days ago I noticed a faint knock when driving normally over medium sized bumps in the road. Sound seems like it is coming from the front drivers side. It's not my first time around the block and wonder if it's suspension related or steering related. It's going to the dealer tomorrow...
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I have a 98 Sebring Convertible 2.5L V6 that stalls after 10 minutes of driving at 30mph or even at highway speeds (ouch), but it seems only if the car has been sitting parked for 5 days will the stall occur. If I drive it daily/every other day, she seems to run just fine. Somewhere in between 2 and 5 days, there is sometimes a surge at that distance, but not a complete stall. The stall has been a very specific distance that if I let the car sit for 5 days, I can essentially pull over in anticipation of the stall. When the car stalls, the dash gauges all go to 0 and lose all power steering, but headlights stay on. Otherwise, there's been no noticeable loss of power, rough idle or anything else to indicate a problem. There are no codes on the computer. The stall happens once. I can pull over and immediately restart my car and be on my way without experiencing another problem until I let the car sit for 5 days again.
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1998 Forester, 233,000 miles.. Two years ago it started running hot after 15 minutes of either driving or idling. Coolant seemed to vanish into thin air. The Subaru Dealership said that I either had a bad head gasket or a cracked cylinder wall. They said if the head gasket was bad then need to replace the head gaskets. They said if the cylinder wall was cracked, then we would need a new engine.
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We will start with the history. I recently purchased this car knowing of a long list of issues which have been worked out for the most part. The related piece would be random misfires which I believed were based on a faulty Ignition Coil (common on this 420a [2.0 NA] motor.) I have replace the coil but the issue persists.
Now what is happening is after about 20-30 minutes (or miles) of driving the fuel pump will overheat and the car will stall. I can get it to turn back over most of the time but it will stall out if attempting to drive. I have to leave it sitting for about 15 minutes to be able to move it.
What codes am I getting from the CEL? Nothing. (No CEL)What have I tried so far? - Fuel pump has been replaced- Fuel filter has been replaced- Fuel lines have been verified (no noticeable leaks, unwanted bends, pinches or breaks)(I also verified that this is not an issue with the PCV valve or EGR [electric in this car] valve)
I know... I thought relay or wiring also - but all lines and the relay are cool to the touch so they are not overheating. 1998 Eclipse GS....
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About 3 months ago my Toyota Camry '03 lost control due to icy road and it turned around completely to the opposite direction of driving on a mild slope a few hundred meters away from my house on the community road. This occurred after I pressed the brake and the speed of the car is less than 5 mph. The rear driver side tire hurt the road curb and got flattened. The flattened tire was fixed the next day at Walmart and driving of the car (steering) appeared to be fine. However, I can now hear a rhythmical "kong, kong, kong..." noise when I drive the car and the noise become stronger the faster the car goes. In fact I can barely hear the sound when the speed is below 40 mph. And the noise occurs only when the car moves: no noise occurs when I step on the gas in the parking lot. What might the possible cause of this noise? Do I need to have a tire alignment?
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Our 1995 Toyota Camry shakes and makes a loud rattling noise while driving, but not every time I drive the car. The rear seat of the vehicle, especially feels the shake. The rear tires have been replaced and aligned, but still the shake/noise persists. Our mechanic has not been able to recreate the noise. It has occurred in the winter and summer with or without the heater and/or air conditioning on or off. Sometimes the shaking is so severe, I am afraid of what will happen, but I will stop at the next light, sit for a minute or two, and when the light turns green, the car goes, no shaking involved - everything is fine. I typically drive in town so speed is only 45 mph or less. The car has only 137,000 miles, and is well-maintained.
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2001 toyota sequoia had oil changed but the oil leak out within 1/2 a mile. Engine automatically shut off. Oil was refilled but when we tried starting it, it would not run. The engine would crank over and over but would not get to the point where it would run or start. Ive been told there may be a safety shut off unit that activates when there is very low oil or no oil at all. What may have actually happened? Can a motor seize within a few minutes of driving @ 40 mph?
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I have a 93 Camry that quit on the highway. No spark, crack in condensor replaced distributer. Still not run. Rotor not turning, replaced timing belt, main engine fuse heating up replaced that. Now it starts right up but only runs 10 minutes. Then won't restart until several hours go by then it will start again. Runs like a champ when it starts.
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I changed the front brake rotors & pads on my wife's 2009 Toyota Camry & everything seems fine except when doing sudden or slightly hard stops it seems to do a clunk/knock type sound from the front brakes. It also only does it sometimes not every hard/sudden stop.
One thing that comes to mind is that when I went to tighten one of the guide pin bolts it was a real pain, the big bolt that the screw threads into kept spinning making it hard to tighten the bolt into & none of the others did this. I thought I tightened it down but possibly not?
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A140E transaxle issue... I have what I surmise is a direct clutch engagement issue. It takes (literally) 3 or MINUTES to engage reverse. And obviously the 2 -3 shift is slow also. It acts like there is a restriction in the passage to the direct piston. I rebuilt about 5 years ago, so am familiar with the teardown.
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I have a 1998 toyota sienna with 170k. Yesterday when I was driving on the highway, the car turned completely off, and then after about 2 seconds started back up again. When it turned off, the electronics turned off along with the engine. I had no brake power, lost power steering, and couldn't even turn on the hazards. It did it 2 more times before I got home.
The second time, I noticed that it did this when I turned on the headlights. This time the engine stayed on, but the speedometer and tachometer went nuts (bouncing up and down) and all of the console lights turned on and off. When I turned the headlights off, everything went ok. When I got home and turned the car off, it went dead. Haven't tried starting it today, but the battery light went on dimly when I put the key in.
Took a quick look at the battery. The terminals are corroded. I'm going to clean them today, but I'm feeling that it won't do much. The battery light didn't turn on, so I'm thinking that the alternator is ok (am I wrong?). Since the electronics and brakes died when the engine died, I'm thinking it's not the distributor coil. Is my ecu fried?
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