Toyota - Camry :: 1998 - Several Oil Leaks?
Sep 9, 2016
This is Toyota Camry 98 with V6 3.0 engine.After smelling burnt oil while driving (mostly during stops, to be more precise), I took the car to Toyota service mechanics. They found leaks in both valve cover gaskets, and a leak from behind the timing belt cover. The leaks from valve covers were dripping onto exhaust, causing the burning smell.
The total repair cost is quoted at around $2k ($700 for valve covers and $1300 for what is behind the timing belt assembly).
Is it worth doing ? My worry is that, since 3 separate seals are failing, it is likely that other seals will start failing soon.Should the whole engine be rebuilt instead ?
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I've got a 96 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl, that appears to be losing coolant. I do not see any apparent leaks. I've checked compression and all cylinders are 170lbs. Within the past year I've replaced the radiator and hoses, timing belt, water pump, etc. Within the past month I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap. I do see it bubbling in the overflow tank. Also you see vapor with the radiator cap off. I feel sure its probably a head gasket ..
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A couple of days ago, my wife noticed that the floor mat on the rear passenger side of her car was sopping wet. She thought perhaps a water bottle must have spilled or leaked, so she soaked up the water and dried out the mat. Today, the mat was wet again with about an inch of water accumulating only on the passenger side of the rear floor.
We have had no significant rain for more than two weeks; in fact, it's been sunny and hot with temps in the 90s. There is no water on the front floor or the rear driver's side floor. Due to the heat, we have run the AC, but it is working fine with no apparent leaks. There is no apparent leaking in the trunk or underneath the car. There are no apparent leaks from the radiator or hoses. Everything is working fine, except for the water on the rear passenger side floor. We can't figure out the source of the water.
The car is a 2006 4-door Toyota Camry LE with 199K miles on it.
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My 1998 Toyota Camry with about 157k creaks esp around turns and even more with adult rear seat passengers (not my in-laws my husband's). When my dealership did a really expensive routine service on my car said the front links and bushings needed to be replaced, but after the amount they charged me I had no money left. Would fixing these fix my creaking? If not should I do replace them anyways?
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My son's 1998 shook and cut off at a red light today. I am taking it to be fixed and do not want to be taken for a ride financially. What it could be, so I can show up at the repair shop professing some knowledge?
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My 22 year old daughter drives my 98 Toyota Camry. The lights in the dash have burned out. I need to find out how to replace those bulbs or should I just tell her to be home before dark or maybe tape a flashlight to the steering wheel?
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Every once in a while I'll go to start my car and it will stall right away. I'll try again and it will continue to stall. If I give it gas as soon as it starts I can keep it running. Yesterday it did this when I left from work. I held the rpm's at about 1500 and after about 10 seconds the rpm's jump about 200 or 300 and it idled. Sometimes it even idles really low. About 500 rpm. I've done plugs and wires (oem), air filter, PVC, ecu coolant temp sensor, fuel cleaners every 3 or 4 months. This has happened about 6 times in the passed 4 months. Runs great otherwise b
1998 Toyota Camry, 2.2l, Automatic, 125,000 miles
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I've been having frequent problems with my car.
Here's the information about it:
200,000 miliage
engine light is on when key is in ignition, but goes off when car starts up
Four cylinder engine
Here's the problem:
Car stalls intermittently
when it is about to stall, when i slow down, car putters a bit, and RPM gauge shakes wildly
when coming to a complete stop, car shuts off completely, and when trying to start back up, engine chokes.
Temporary solution:
I put the car in neutral and floor the gas pedal, then the car works again.
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My 1998 V6 Camry has rattle on right front and now starting on left too. Bad shocks were replaced and still rattles going over bumps at speeds 20-35. Don't notice on freeway. Car drives fine, no pulling or other problems just irritating noise at slower speeds. Two different mechanics say the Strut mount plate is loose. Could not find any other problems? Is it okay to leave the mount plates in place? Mechanics say other than annoying there isn't a problem.
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I have a 1998 Toyota Camry. A week ago the instrument panel lights and parking lights would not go off after I turned the car off. At first this only happened once or twice but within days it was happening frequestly. In order to get the lights off, I had to turn them off and on frequently in order for the lights to finally go off. I have had the multi function switch replaced but after a few days the problem returned
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The 98 camry has steering wheel shudder after the new tires have been put on. Do I need alignment. will that work now that my tires are scalloped? The guys at the tire shop balanced the tires. the shudder was there on the old tires too, which were severely scalloped. or pitted. Can i do alignment myself?
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I got a 1998 Toyota Camry with 2.2L 4 cylinders and have almost 210K miles on it.
Starting about 2 months ago, I was experiencing some minor engine kicking when it was either idling or accelerating, not really such a big deal. About a month ago, I took it to my mechanic shop and he told me that I need to clean up the throttle body. I took his advice, let him did the work and the car still doing the same thing. I did a lot of research on the internet and many people suggested replacing the spark plugs and after I replace the plugs (Bosch, not something cheap), the situation got even worse.
The engine starts kicking more frequently and violently and the “Check Engine” light came on (and flashing). I took my car to a local auto parts store and have their people get the error code for me, it was something about engine misfire and they told me I should have my mechanic to take a look.I took the car back to my mechanic, 2 days later when I called him for update, he told me the cause of the problem was the spark plug cables didn’t plugged in securely. But just before I drove off the mechanic’s parking lot, the engine did it again. I didn’t go back to ask my mechanic because I truly believe he did not want to spend any more time on my car.
Here are the current conditions of my car,
•It never fail to start when the engine is cold or warm
•When I stopped at traffic light, the engine ran smoothly, after about 10 to 20 seconds of idling, it starts kicking. It will do this no matter if my gear in in P, R, N or D.
•When the car is completely stop and then I press the accelerator, the engine will act like it’s going to choke and if I keep holding the accelerator, 2 to 5 seconds later it will rev up and going
•I will be even worse if I have my AC on.
•It runs smoothly if it on the highway
•It always acting up if I try to make a 90 degree right turn and never happens on a left turn
•The “Check Engine” light did come up again but went away 2 days later.
•I made a hard brake yesterday and it took the car about 15 seconds to be able to rev up the engine again.
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I have a 4 cylinder '98 Toyota Camry with 82k miles on it. I got the car second hand from a family friend 7 months ago. About 3 months ago, my engine would sputter and then shut off when I'd start slowing down below 30mph and stopping at lights after I'd been on the interstate. Issue occurs only when I've accelerated quickly during that drive (ie accelerating hard to go up a hill to merge or to pass a slow car).
When I need to stop, if I'm fast enough to get the gear in neutral, hold down the break and rev the engine at the same time, then it most likely won't shut off. It's like trying to do CPR on my car... The spark pugs have been replaced, oil changed, and fluid levels checked but the problem still happens. What could be the problem??
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My Camry is idling low. Car runs smooth while cold. Car sputters when I touch the gas at low speeds inconsistently. After a brief period it picks up and runs great. It gets worse throughout the day. It is the worst in the evening after driving back from work or town. I have changed the spark plugs. It ran a little better after that. It ran a little better after new front tires. Vehicle is front wheel drive. Just replaced both cv axles but the problem started before replacing them. Also I have replaced the fuel filter. I also introduced a half can of Sea Foam directly into the engine through a vacuum tube and reved it. Lots of black smoke came out. I took the other half of the can and put it in the gas tank with four gallons of super when the fuel was fairly low. It now has more "get up and go" after the initial sputter and better gas mileage but the initial problem is still there.
The problem started after I left the key turned on and killed my battery. A friend jumped me off with his xterra. He revved his engine and I cranked mine and it started that's when this issue started. Car also has a muffler leak in two places. I had the flex pipe redone. The muffler shop had to weld it on. The weld in the front of the flex pipe leaks a bit and the connection after the exhaust manifold and before the flex pipe leaks a bit. This was very apparent when I sea foamed it. The o2 censors ( it has two) are costly. So my next step will be to take then out and scrub them with a wire brush, no chemicals. Also I am going to have the weld touched up on the flex pipe. The mechanic did his best to tighten up the connection after the exhaust manifold and could not get it any tighter.
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I have a 98 Toyota Camry, when I drive it for about 30 minutes both radiator hoses expand and seems like they want to burst.I removed the thermostat but still acting the same. Seems like the car is building a lot of pressure from the engine.. What could this be? Already replaced the water pump and have a new. radiator... The car does not overheat with or without the thermostat.
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I have a 1998 Camry V6 with 165000 miles. I had brake pads and rotors replaced on all four tires. Two days later, I noticed a flapping/knocking noise apparently coming from the rear of the car. It only happens after the car as been driving for 5-10 minutes. The noise increases in frequency as the speed of the vehicle increases and is unaffected by braking or bumps and gets louder the longer the car is driven. I took the car back and they re-checked all the brake installations and said everything was fine and the noise was nothing to worry about (of course I had to convince them that there really was a noise). They also said they inspected the tires and didn't find anything wrong. I have jacked the car up and looked under all tires and don't see anything close to the tires that could be hitting them. It sounds like a strip of rubber hitting a metal pan. I see no loose plastic guards or mudflaps. The tires were all replaced less than 2 years ago and they have been rotated regularly and visually appear to be in good shape.
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I have a 1998 Toyota Camry v6 with about 90k miles on it. When I am driving and hold the gas pedal steady the car jerks and hesitates. If I press down on the gas I can power through the problem. It also does this when I set the cruise control. There is no check engine light on.
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There is an air leak and hissing sound at the connection of the master cylinder to the brake booster. Brake pedal travels nearly to the floorboard before engaging the brake. What is the problem and how can I fix it myself? (Special note: the brake fluid was very low and is now topped off to the maximum level . Adding the brake fluid caused very little change to the brake pedal travel.)
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I have a 1998 Toyota Camry , whenever I start it after its been sitting for 3 or more hours the rpm's shoot up to2,000 and stay there for 3-4 minutes straight, if I hit the gas they don't go down, if I turn my heat on they come down a little bit.
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I have a '98 Camry. The windshield and side window rubber gaskets/molding is cracking, and there's paint peeling on the roof. I have 166k on it and it runs fine. Do I need to do something about these issues? I'm concerned about water leaks (not yet), but don't care about it cosmetically.
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I have a 1998 Buick lesaber it ran hot the other day [temp light came on] do I pulled in to gastation and the overflow tank was empty I filled it to the hot line and ran it for a few minutes light went off drove 8 blocks to my house let it cool down and opens the radiator cap no coolant. I checked the overflow tank empty too. So I got some coolant from my garage and poured it into the radiator as I was pouring it started to leak out somewhere on the upper passenger side of the engine under the plastic noise cover and behind the pulleys. This happened while the car was not running. It's my family's only car so I can't tear it apart until the weekend but where to start or what parts to have on hand.
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