Toyota - Camry :: 1997 - Won't Start Off And On Several Times
Feb 24, 2014
My 1997 Camry won't start off and on. It seems to do it after I've run several errands, i.e., started and stopped the car several times, and it seems to happen when the weather warms up (from the 20's, 30's to 60 degrees or so)
All the regular things have been checked (battery, alternator, starter.) I have a mechanic who specializes in imports and has lots of experience with Camrys. He thought it was the idler but replacing that didn't work. He tried putting in a computer but that didn't solve it. He doesn't think it's the gas pump because he used something to test that and it showed it was getting gas fine.
We tried the theory of "winter gas," but that doesn't seem to be it either.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry. About once every 15 to 20 times I turn the ignition, the car won't start. Sometimes there's just a click and then nothing, and sometimes all the lights on the dashboard will flash for a second and then nothing, in each case the starter does not turn over. However, I discovered that instead of needing a jump from another car, if I just connect the jumper cables to the battery and leave the other end of the cable on the ground, the car will start right up after this happens. One other note, the clock is always reset after this. What is the problem and how can this be fixed?
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When I go to start my car in the morning the first 5-6 times I turn it over, doesn't start, than it starts than dies out about 3 times than it will keep a idle, but if I press the gas pedal when it starts to idle it always dies out but if I let it warm up when it starts to idle it doesn't die out? If I drive it and shut it off as long as the engine is warm it starts right up..
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My girlfriend has a 1997 Toyota Camry with a 6 cyl engine. Low mileage - only 66k miles. She has a very sporadic problem for about the past year. Yesterday it happened for the first time in two months. She tries to start the car and gets a click. She turns the key back and it starts the next time she turns the key. Yesterday, it failed to start twice before it turned over. She talked to her mechanic who said the best thing to do is to wait for it to fail completely because it would be so hard to track down such a sporadic problem - could be the switch, a flat spot on the starter, or a host of other issues.
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Four or five years ago, our 2001 Toyota Camry (and my wife and I) had the misfortune of being in a T-bone accident when someone unexpectedly pulled a left turn in front of us and gave us no time to stop. We had the car front-end repaired at a collision repair center, and we were good to go, I thought. As I drove away, I noticed the newly replaced seat belts seemed to "lock" in place at times. They did lock at a sudden stop, as expected, but when entering the car and attempting to put on the seat belts, they would sometimes lock and release, causing me a repeated tug-of-war as I attempted to get enough slack to fasten the belt. This occurred on both the driver and passenger front belts.
Needless to say, I returned the car to the shop, and they cheerfully replaced the belts a second time. When I picked up the car, I first tested the belts, which seemed to perform flawlessly, so I drove home. My joy was short-lived, however, because on the way home, the locking problem returned. I returned to the collision repair shop yet again, and they replaced the belts a third time. The shop foreman personally tested the belts to make sure they worked, and he watched as I did the same. However, yet again, on the way home, the belts would lock unexpectedly.
Through much experimentation, I finally realized that if the car was facing any degree of a downward angle, I could pull the belts very easily and smoothly, yet they locked if I jerked the belts hard. This was as expected. If the car was level or facing an upward angle, however, pulling smoothly on the belt would result in them locking. This seemed very odd to me, and I mentioned it to the collision foreman. He immediately called Toyota to ask about it, and they had never heard of such a symptom.
So, for the past five years, I have been enduring the craziness of getting in my car and doing a repeated pull "negotiation" with the seat belt. I have also noticed that when I begin driving forward, if I will apply the brakes gently, both myself and any passenger can then easily pull the belts and fasten them while the gradual braking is occurring. It doesn't seem to be a safety issue because they do lock on a sudden hard stop, but it is counter-intuitive to me that a gradual braking allows the belts to move freely. Is it possible they could have installed the belts upside down or backwards, or something?
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Gps and satellite radio plug in power line fuse burned out three times. What could be the issue with Toyota Camery 2012 plug in. Toyota Camery 2012 recall list have no mention about plug-in issues. What is the problem with the plug in power line?
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So we have had problems with the starter (and flywheel?) since we acquired the truck, these problems being that when we would go to start the car, it would make a horrible "grinding" noise a few times, but would eventually start up. Recently, the car would not start at all, and made no noise when the key was turned. Called AAA, they gave us a jump, and the truck started again. Assuming the problem was then with the battery, we replaced it as well as both terminals. The truck would still not start after doing this, no noise at all when key turned. My questions then would be, if the battery is not the problem, why did the truck start after we had a jump? I'm thinking it might be the starter, and if the starter was shot, would the truck have no sign of life when the ignition was turned on? Should i try and change the starter or is there possibly another variable? 1986 auto Toyota Pickup....
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Sometimes my car starts when I turn over the key once. When it won't start, if I jiggle the steering wheel several times it will start. (When it's cold or humid it rarely starts without first jiggling the steering wheel). I'm not locking the steering wheel and I don't have trouble turning over the key. When the problem first developed I was told it's not the battery, alternator or starter. (I have a Toyota Tercel so the key goes into the steering column). (A few months ago a shop had it a whole day but couldn't get it to act up; then the problem went away for a few months).
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When I start my camry (06 v6) the check engine light flashes 6 times then goes off. I brought it to auto zone this morning to have the code read and they said it wasn't throwing anything. Car seems to be running fine, haven't done anything to it in the past few weeks other than open and close the hood once or twice.
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2003 F150 Super Crew 5.4
When I turn off the ignition, the drivers door lock unlocks or pushes the arm through the door for up to 30-60 seconds over and over again. I would say like 10 times and it is annoying as hell.
Is the only part in the door that controls this the actuator or is there something else that can be doing this?
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I had been having battery issues with my 97 ford f150 4.6 liter for the longest time, thought i had a short under dash, i pulled entire dash out, disconnecting bat first of course, and inspected all wiring harness connections and fixing my issues and putting it all back together. now with new bat and all put back together i am now getting the airbag light flashing 5 times then 2 times (error code 52) i know it has some thing to do with power failure or backup battery, but now with the new battery in i cant seem to get it to reset. How to do this?
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My grandma has a '07 XLE 4cyl with around 65K on it.
Every once and awhile, completely intermittent, no consistency whatsoever it takes 4 seconds or so to get the car to actually start. Normally 1-2 seconds.
Was going to change plugs. See that you have to replace the whole pump/strainer assy. in the tank, no stand-alone filter.
No DTC's or any other lights on. Wondering about replacing the whole pump/strainer assy. will fix it or what the deal is. Can't order it online at Advance Auto parts, and called their store and the Denso one they show isn't even listed as available at the factory. Hope you don't need an OEM one, sure that's not cheap.
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Camry 06 4cyl with 100k automatic. I have replaced spark plugs, cleaned the MAF with Maf cleaner, Changed air filter, changed cabin air filter, transmission flush, engine oil to synthetic 5w30, used seafoam in the fuel tank and the intake per sticky.
We have owned the car for 3 weeks now. We live in Orlando, FL so the lowest temp we get in the mornings is 57 some days during winter times. The car never idled high at 2000 rpms since we owned it. I never had a car that idles that high on cold start up but my other vehicles idle at 1200 rpms on cold start up.
It idles at 2k for like 3 mins and then drops back to 800 rpm which is seems like normal operation of cold start up. I have read mixed reviews about been normal or not. Most of this reviews are in really cold temps not like the ones here in FL.
So does this appear to be normal? My wife called me today telling me the car did this. She said it was that cold this morning. I haven't got a chance to read the manual and see if there is a note there since she is at work.
I just need to know if it is normal even in hotter temps like FL. The car drives fine and no check engine light. Stock engine as far as we know.
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I have a 2005 SE 3.3L engine with 115000Miles,
When you turn the ignition key , you have to wait for it to crank 6-7 times before it starts. whether engine is cold or warm it makes no difference.
I was wondering how your engines ( 3.3Ls) behave, does that start immediately after 1-2 cranks, or it is normal for this type of engines to take 6-7 turns ?
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I have a 2011 I4 camry. I recently ran out of gas and decided to keep trying to see maybe if the car would turn on. After all that i gave up cranking the car on and decided to push to a gas station. After putting in gas (93 octane) I realized i have my check engine light on and another light which depicts a car with 2 swiggly lines.What that light means but its to the right of of lcd display which shows your mileage. I am taking the car tomorrow to the dealership but I was wondering is there any way i can check the codes without an obd scanner (the thing that checks for codes). Do you think I ruined my engine after trying to start the car multiple times without gas?
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry with 200k miles on it. It has been giving me trouble starting for a while and I was advised to replace my battery during my last oil change. The problem is when I try to start it does not start for a while. It makes a noise and tiisssssss and stop. tissssss and stop. But then third or fourth try, it works. I installed a new battery and I am still having the same problem. One cold day, it never started no matter how many times I tried. My roommate who is an aerospace engineering PhD candidate came out of the apartment with a teapot full of how water and poured it onto the terminals. For record, terminals are clean. When he did that, it worked.
What is wrong with car?
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I have a 97 Camry that looked like it had a small oil leak coming from the head gasket. It needed oil added every few days or so, so I changed the head gasket and now it overheats!
I changed the T-Stat, no luck. I took the radiator out and flushed it. It seemed to flow great too. I had the garden hose on full blast going in the top and it was coming out of the bottom just as fast with no back pressure out the top. So I think the radiator is good.
I'm pretty sure the fan was kicking on at the correct time but just to be sure I hard wired it so it's always on if the key is no, still over heating. Compression test shows 200, 209, 209, 211. That's pretty good right?
Just to be sure that the exhaust was not leaking through the new head gasket and heating up the coolant I did a liquid block test. Where you suck air out of the radiator cap and then it goes through a chemical which will change color if it contains exhaust gases. Not only did the liquid not change color, it was very hard to get any air out of the radiator, indicating that the system is tightly sealed correct?
The car is not loosing any coolant. I changed the coolant gauge sensor as well, still shows overheating.
Before I changed the sensor out I bought a thermometer and put it in the radiator. I was able to leave the cap off even after it started to get hot. The coolant did start to rise a little but I just bled it off from the drain plug at the bottom as it got higher, making sure to leave it full and not get any air. And the temp stayed below 200. This made me think that it was not overheating and thus the new sensor. This was not the case though. I realized that the coolant coming from the engine was very hot and then going into the radiator where it could cool down via my always running fan and then go past my thermometer.
The heater works great and even cool the engine down. This means that the heater core is not blocked and that the water pump works correct?
So after all of this I decided that there must be something blocking a coolant port. SOOO I took it all apart again only to find no blockages. I can see very well down into the block and fairly well through the cooling ports on the head and everything looks fine.
I also checked out the water pump and that looks great. Still in great shape and the bearing is not worn at all.
There was only ONE thing that was wrong on the engine (that I found) and that was the throttle body gasket. It was put on the wrong way so as not to fully block that air passage that I believe is pulled from the block into the throttle body. this could cause overheating?
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I have a 1997 Toyota Camry thats leaking oil profusely. Within a week of topping oil, the oil leak light turns on. The mechanic says that leak is somewhere near the engine and he needs to tear it apart to see whats up. Estimates run upto $ 800. I am trying to extract life from the car. Is Lucas stop leak advisable?
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Hit a nasty speed bump and now the exhaust system on my 97 Camry is making a new sound. I see a cylinder shape which looks like the outside of woven basket. Did the cover come off my catalytic converter? (I was carrying six adults on a Mass. state park road that was as level as the Appalachian mountains with a speed bump half of which had been stolen by local bears.)
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I have a 1997 Toyota Camry with over 200,000 miles. It is a manual: 5 speed. In the past few months it has started to idle at around 2000 RPMS, which is way too high. I took the car into a mechanic where I am currently living (Austin, TX), and they couldn't diagnose the problem, because, according to them, it didn't do it the whole time they had it. I admit, it doesn't do it all the time, but I know something is not right. It is beginning to idle high more frequently. How to diagnose this problem and to solve it!!
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My check engine light kicked on about 6 months ago. The code was for the catalytic converter, which I did not replace because it is less than 2yrs old. It would go on and off intermittently, and for the last week it has remained off. All the other dash lights work fine, and I know it's not the fuse...
'97 Toyota Camry, 231,000 miles.
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