Toyota - Camry :: 1997 - When Try To Start The Car Gets A Click
Mar 30, 2015
My girlfriend has a 1997 Toyota Camry with a 6 cyl engine. Low mileage - only 66k miles. She has a very sporadic problem for about the past year. Yesterday it happened for the first time in two months. She tries to start the car and gets a click. She turns the key back and it starts the next time she turns the key. Yesterday, it failed to start twice before it turned over. She talked to her mechanic who said the best thing to do is to wait for it to fail completely because it would be so hard to track down such a sporadic problem - could be the switch, a flat spot on the starter, or a host of other issues.
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Strange things happened to my 1994 Camry.
1) Car would not start - no click, engine would not turn over. But I noticed some low voltage interior lights still on.
2) Jumped it. Started right up.
3) Took it on the road to charge the battery.
4) ABS light cycled on and off.
5) Felt like the timing was being cut back from 1500 to 1200 rpm. Could not go over 20 MPH.
6) Was able to drive it about 1/4 mile, but the car died while moving - fortunately coasted back into my garage.
7) Went out to jump again later, same symptoms. 8
8) An hour later, tried to start without a jump, and it started! No ABS warning light.
9) Replaced battery and checked ground. Battery was toast, alternator fine, ground ok.
No symptoms since, other that several dash lights no longer working. What happened? What was wrong? Is it fixed for good?
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I bought a used 2008 Toyota Camry per-certified from a local Toyota dealer about 2 years ago. About a year and a half ago I got in the car to go to work one morning and it would not start. You turn the key and all the lights come on but nothing else happened. Took the battery to Auto Zone and they said the battery was OK so I had it towed to the dealership. Dealer called when he got it and said it cranked right up for them and it has not been an issue since.
Two days ago I get in the car to leave work and the same thing happens. You might hear the starter click when you turn the key but nothing else happened. The car was getting power from the battery but that was about it. I tried to jump the car off but still the same thing. I had the car towed to a local Goodyear shop and after looking at it the said it was a problem with the alternator, that needed to be replaced, which also killed a cell in the battery that needed to be replaced also. They said since they are replacing the alternator they might as well replace the belt also.
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So my 1991 Toyota Camry won't start.
Symptoms: I get a single click and sometimes a very strange electric stutter/gurgle (think I should call in just the try it on air...). Dash lights come on, dome light too. Windshield wipers work, but slowly as do the automatic seat belts that come back and choke you when your not ready for them (also slower than they should be). No radio, no driver or rear power windows, but the passenger side works as does the sun roof. The battery looks pretty new and the connections are spotless and firm.
Priors: Had the battery run down once before about a month ago... Jumped it and all was well for a while. We don't drive it much, not even daily. Also has temporarily failed to start maybe 5 times in the past 8 months. In those instances I get the rapid clicking and the power in the car seems normal. After a couple of tries it starts right up. Not sure how old the starter is, but I doubt it's recent.
I've checked the boards and found some stuff (power drain, solenoid, starter, clutch switch or something), but the power windows thing is pretty weird....
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My 1997 Camry won't start off and on. It seems to do it after I've run several errands, i.e., started and stopped the car several times, and it seems to happen when the weather warms up (from the 20's, 30's to 60 degrees or so)
All the regular things have been checked (battery, alternator, starter.) I have a mechanic who specializes in imports and has lots of experience with Camrys. He thought it was the idler but replacing that didn't work. He tried putting in a computer but that didn't solve it. He doesn't think it's the gas pump because he used something to test that and it showed it was getting gas fine.
We tried the theory of "winter gas," but that doesn't seem to be it either.
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I have a 1998 Camry. My directional light and click correctly when I tun them on. When I GENTLY turn off the directional signal, I hear the relay continue to click, however the dash lights do not blink, nor do the outside lights. If I let the directional lever jump back into place, the problem does not occur. Is it the switch in the column, or the relay?
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A couple months back my avalon started refusing to start, lights would come on with the key, but when i turned it, nothing but a click. after a few tries it would eventually start and run, usually for the day without issue again. After a while it got worse, and I had the battery tested. It was dead. So i replaced it. The car would still click the first couple times but start more readily then it had previously. Fast forward 2 weeks. I go to start my car, it does its clicking thing, then nothing. The whole car just dies. no lights, no clock, nothing. I gave it a minute and it came back on with dimmed lights and the antitheft system (which goes off if the battery is disconnected) goes off.
since then, i have successfully started the car 2x, but after each shut off, the clicking and no start issue returns. The battery cables are free of corrosion and its a brand new battery. I have seen issues with the starters and alternators on these cars on forums before, however with mine intermittently working, its slightly different. at least to my limited mechanical knowledge.
I have seen starter rebuild kits for fairly cheap online and alternator replacement options that look to be fairly easy with the tools that i have access to.
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I have an 04 Camry with a one year old battery. Twice now, about 6 weeks apart, when I tried to start it in the morning, it clicks once and that is all. I popped the hood, jiggled each battery cable (they're not loose, but I still jiggled the post area) and then it starts. The presets on the radio are gone, as if the battery were dead. Also...a couple of days before it happens, the idle is very rough, almost as if it's going to stall. But after an "episode" the idle is back to about 750 rpm and very smooth.
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I recently had some wires fixed under the hood of my 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee, because it wouldn't start. The mechanic told me that it looked like a squirrel had been making a nest under the hood and had chewed on some wires. I suspect that it may have happened over a long period of time, but I'm not positive of that.
Since then, a couple of times it has not started. I get in, turn the key, and all I hear is a click (not a repeated clicking).I've been able to get it to start by putting it in neutral, pushing it forward a foot or two, and then putting it back in park and turning the key again. When I do that, it starts right up. if you happen to know what part of the starter system is most likely at fault.
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I got a 1997 f150 4x4 4.6L had to replace fuel rail after a couple holes were rubbed in it and caused a fire, but now after two weeks of it sitting at the dealer, I wasn't gonna pay for a fuel rail to be put on so i had it towed home and I did it, however now when I go to start it, it just clicks. So I have the battery tested and its bad so it was still warrantied so it now has a new battery and i also replaced the starter solenoid while i was at it. But still just a click when i try to start it. I had the starter out and bench tested it and it went but went slow and looked very old and tired, I am thinking i need a starter now because its a click from the starter, like its trying to go but isn't strong enough.
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I have a '97 Explorer XLT with a 5.0L V8. Recently, I've developed a problem, in which it doesn't always start. Sometimes, when I turn the key, there is a very loud click (as if the solenoid is engaging), but there is no start. The battery is NEW, and confirmed good, and the terminal connections are tight. I have also replaced the solenoid, but the issue remains.
If I turn on the headlights, before trying to start it, the lights DO NOT dim when the key is turned...indicating NO draw, on the electrical system. I can try it several days a week, unsuccessfully. And then, one day, I can turn the key and it will start as if there was never a problem to begin with.
I have lost confidence in my favorite vehicle, as I am afraid to drive it if/when it does start, for fear of being stranded. I am thinking it may just have a bad armature, or windings in the starter, but if that doesn't correct it, I can't return the starter (as it is an electrical component).
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My camry suddenly won't start. when i turn the key it makes this single click but won't start. Battery seems to be good. bad starter?
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So my wife's 2007 Camry just got a new battery a week or two ago. The other day she goes into the garage to her car to find it dead, with no power to the locks (had to use key instead of FOB), no accessories, no dash lights and no dome light. When she tried to start the vehicle it gave her a single click, did not crank and did not start.
Initially I approached it from the perspective that maybe the alternator was not charging the battery, so I charged the battery with my portable charger. The battery charged fast and checked out okay.
I then used the key FOB to unlock the door. Adjusted the electric seat to better fit me. The dome light came on. I also checked to see the head lights came on. I turned the ignition to start and I got a single click. Tried it again and got no feedback. The dome light was no longer lit and no other accessories worked. All of the power seemingly drained following the attempt to start.
Now I am wondering if the starter is shorting out or if something more mysterious in the electrical system is malfunctioning in a way that I have never faced before...
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Ok so I was looking at my blend door actuator motor to see if it was working. Just took off the bottom vent cover, turned key on and moved the air mixture to see if the motor worked. (it didn't) Then I went to start the truck and all I get is the solenoid on the firewall click each time I turn the key. I put a meter on the opposite side of solenoid and I see 12v across the solenoid. I can't image i did anything while playing around by the blend door actuator motor. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that the next logical step is starter and starter solenoid. Is there anything else I could be missing? is there anything else in that circuit between the solenoid on the firewall and the starter? I also cleaned the battery terminals and the terminals down on the starter solenoid. I also tapped the starter a bunch and put a charger on battery and tried jumping the truck too. Everything else works.
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My mom has a 2001 f150 with a 5.0. Had never had any problems with it till this week. She says it wont click or anything. When she tries to start it, the power door locks go to locking & unlocking. She said the battery is good. I figured probably the starter. She lives about 2 1/2 hours from me. I figured I would go down there and take the starter off and have it checked or rebuilt. Anybody ever had their power locks to go to moving when you try to start the truck. Also, when she turns the key on, her dash lights come on just like normal. Just won't turn over or click or anything.
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2007 camry CE remote start not starting motor. push button, cars sounds doors click but motor does not start.
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tonight at 1am: I put the key in and turn the ignition, no start, no click, no dashboard warning lights, no nothing. headlights don't turn on at allearlier in the afternoon - didn't check headlights, but no start, no click, no dashboard warning lights. Sliding 1 key into the ignition gave me a somewhat steady buzzing sound from the car, the kind you get to indicate something electrical is happening (I guess that's what it's for.
I wish I were mechanically inclined.) Sliding the other key into the ignition gave me a much more sporadic buzzing sound. Like metal wasn't making contact, when it should. A few hours previous in the morning - car wasn't starting as described above. Someone pushes the car back from the front so we can make way for another car, to come in and give me a jump. I put the car in neutral, and notice that the dashboard lights and buzzer is on, so on a hunch, I try to start the car in neutral and it starts right up. I drive it to the home driveway, no problem.
2 days ago, I bought the car. A 97 nissan sentra. What it could be? Again, never a clicking sound when starting the car to indicate dead battery. I'm familiar with that.
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry with 200k miles on it. It has been giving me trouble starting for a while and I was advised to replace my battery during my last oil change. The problem is when I try to start it does not start for a while. It makes a noise and tiisssssss and stop. tissssss and stop. But then third or fourth try, it works. I installed a new battery and I am still having the same problem. One cold day, it never started no matter how many times I tried. My roommate who is an aerospace engineering PhD candidate came out of the apartment with a teapot full of how water and poured it onto the terminals. For record, terminals are clean. When he did that, it worked.
What is wrong with car?
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I have a 97 Camry that looked like it had a small oil leak coming from the head gasket. It needed oil added every few days or so, so I changed the head gasket and now it overheats!
I changed the T-Stat, no luck. I took the radiator out and flushed it. It seemed to flow great too. I had the garden hose on full blast going in the top and it was coming out of the bottom just as fast with no back pressure out the top. So I think the radiator is good.
I'm pretty sure the fan was kicking on at the correct time but just to be sure I hard wired it so it's always on if the key is no, still over heating. Compression test shows 200, 209, 209, 211. That's pretty good right?
Just to be sure that the exhaust was not leaking through the new head gasket and heating up the coolant I did a liquid block test. Where you suck air out of the radiator cap and then it goes through a chemical which will change color if it contains exhaust gases. Not only did the liquid not change color, it was very hard to get any air out of the radiator, indicating that the system is tightly sealed correct?
The car is not loosing any coolant. I changed the coolant gauge sensor as well, still shows overheating.
Before I changed the sensor out I bought a thermometer and put it in the radiator. I was able to leave the cap off even after it started to get hot. The coolant did start to rise a little but I just bled it off from the drain plug at the bottom as it got higher, making sure to leave it full and not get any air. And the temp stayed below 200. This made me think that it was not overheating and thus the new sensor. This was not the case though. I realized that the coolant coming from the engine was very hot and then going into the radiator where it could cool down via my always running fan and then go past my thermometer.
The heater works great and even cool the engine down. This means that the heater core is not blocked and that the water pump works correct?
So after all of this I decided that there must be something blocking a coolant port. SOOO I took it all apart again only to find no blockages. I can see very well down into the block and fairly well through the cooling ports on the head and everything looks fine.
I also checked out the water pump and that looks great. Still in great shape and the bearing is not worn at all.
There was only ONE thing that was wrong on the engine (that I found) and that was the throttle body gasket. It was put on the wrong way so as not to fully block that air passage that I believe is pulled from the block into the throttle body. this could cause overheating?
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I have just finished changing head gasket. I started up the engine works fine. But I hear a little clik sound form the converter. I put it in gear, but it can't move either forward or backward. It ran 2-3 liters of oil out of the converter when I took the engine out. I have filled new oil in the gearbox but not in the converter, dosnt it came form the gearbox into the converter?Is there air in the converter or what's wrong?
it is a F150 4x4 4.6 1997 automatic.
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I have a 1997 Toyota Camry thats leaking oil profusely. Within a week of topping oil, the oil leak light turns on. The mechanic says that leak is somewhere near the engine and he needs to tear it apart to see whats up. Estimates run upto $ 800. I am trying to extract life from the car. Is Lucas stop leak advisable?
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