Toyota - Camry :: 1997 - Power Dies When Turn The Ignition Switch
Sep 15, 2011
97 Toyota Camry 2.2l motor.
Sometimes, when I turn the ignition on I don't hear a sound and all the power dies in the car (the radio ejects the CD and all the presets are erased when I turn it out of start). This can happen once or twice in a row then generally the car starts up normally.
The battery is brand new (1 month) and is fully charged. My hope is that it's the starter drawing too much power when it tries to start? It's entirely possible it has the factory starter still on the car.
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I was having all the tell tale signs of the almighty ignition switch. No lights, wipers, heater fan. But I didn't have time to change it. The other day went to start it and nothing. I changed the switch I have headlights wipers blower fan now which is sweet. But the car still wont turn over.
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I'm having a problem with my ignition switch. It won't turn and I have to turn the steering wheel for it to finally work.
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I drive a 1997 well-maintained Toyota. This is the 1st time I've had this problem. It started yesterday. I started my car, as usual to stop somewhere for 5 minutes. When I returned I tried to start the car and got "nothing". No sounds, but the lights/radio/dashlight worked. I tried several times, gave up and called AAA.
I took a walk around the block to see if my mechanic was open on Saturday in case I had to tow my car there. It wasn't. I went back to my car to wait for AAA. However, this time the car started immediately, and I drove home after cancelling AAA. I drove the car the rest of the day/evening on & off with no problems.
Today, I tried to start it in the AM and once again it did not start (like the previous day). My neighbor suggested that the ignition & steering wheel are related and could be something to do with that. Anyway, I tried turning the wheel to the right/left, etc. but could not get it started today as I did the day before,
Tomorrow I plan to have it towed (or maybe it will start again) to my mechanic. What could be wrong? Never had this type of thing happen before. The battery is good.
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1995 toyota camry 4 cylinder engine - My car was working fine yesterday, but today when I inserted my key; the key won't turn at all. I have try changing the shift control to neutral and jerk the steeling wheel. I have also went and copy my key. When I inserted the new key, it finally turn all the way, but then it got stuck in the ignition. After a few hour I got the new out of the ignition and try again. This time the new key can't turn all the way. My uncle believe that the key ignition sensory is the problem.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry. About once every 15 to 20 times I turn the ignition, the car won't start. Sometimes there's just a click and then nothing, and sometimes all the lights on the dashboard will flash for a second and then nothing, in each case the starter does not turn over. However, I discovered that instead of needing a jump from another car, if I just connect the jumper cables to the battery and leave the other end of the cable on the ground, the car will start right up after this happens. One other note, the clock is always reset after this. What is the problem and how can this be fixed?
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Just bought for around town. Problem with starting. Turn ignition and sometimes hear grind. Second try in neutral and she starts right up. I don't know if it's problem with key ignition/coil, or the starter.
Also need to convert a/c, fan ok but no cooling. Is this major cost to convert?
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I recently purchased Toyota Camry Hybrid -2008, pre-purchase inspection done by Toyota dealer. Today, my car refuses to turn ignition on (I have keyless start). After several trials, it turned on. I switched off the car and tired after 5 mins. Again it gave the trouble first time, worked second time. What could cause this issue? It's still under hybrid warranty.
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Had to replace the ignition switch. after I went to crank it after switching it out, there was a buzzing around the relay control module. Thought that maybe somehow the ignition tripped something in it so bought a new one. IT is still buzzing and car won't turn over. everything lights up on dash. tried to see if there were any codes and the scanner just reads "fail".
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When I put my key in the ignition, I cannot turn the key. I tried putting a small amount of WD40 in the ignition and turning the wheel back and forth while trying to start, but all that did was make my key greasy and my wheel lock up. I've tried getting a new key made from Lowes and Home Depot, but their keys are too wide and will not fit in the keyholes. The only thing I am down to is replacing the ignition switch completely but I'd rather do that as a last resort because my car has had a big problem every week (alternator gone, new wheels, new master cylinder, new rotors/brakes). I haven't explored yet? And also, if it comes down to replacing the ignition switch, how would I do that without being able to turn the key?
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I put my LS 430 key in my RX330 yesterday, I realized as soon as the ignition would not turn. I put the RX key in, and ignition will not turn. I'm assuming that the pins may be locked so I tried a few options.
- I wiggled the key.
- I lubricated the lock.
- I tried rocking the car while trying to turn the ignition.
- I tapped the ignition lightly with a screw driver and hammer, but no luck.
- I turn the steering wheel while turning ignition to make sure its not locked.
I really don't want to get the car towed to the stealer/dealer.
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I have a problem with turning my key. It will not turn at all. I have taken the upper and lower part of the cover off to expose the switch and removed one screw from the ignition housing, but the internal part of the ignition switch will not come out. How do I completely remove this ignition switch. I have already removed the negative battery cable. It seems this is a continual problem with focuses. Oh, do I need a releasing tool to release the ignition switch.
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I have a 2000 Staturn LW2 auto, 6cyl. When I try to turn on the car, sometimes the engine does not turn, doesn't make a sound, nothing. When I move the steering wheel, it turns on fine, it has to be in a certain position. Does that mean, the ignition switch is faulty or is it the pin? Is there a test I can do?
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I am having a little issue with the ignition in my car. I had the typical no headlights/wipers/heater etc. so I ordered up a new ignition switch and when I went to replace it, the switch fit perfectly and had the correct part number but when I put my key in to try and start the car I couldn't even turn the key but when I put the old switch back in it would turn just fine. Also when I removed the old switch I noticed the red wire going to the switch was slightly burnt right at the terminal.
Here is the basic procedure I did:
-Unhook negative battery cable
-remove lower dash/ center console
-remove switch
-install new switch
Whats this little metal piece? I did not see that when I did mine...
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Is there any way to replace the keyed ignition with a simple momentary switch of some sort? Or is the built in security features too intertangled in the whole design? IE I suspect I'd have to disable tronsponder, keyed ignition, security system, steering column lock, some computer features? I definitely no expert but wondering if it's possible.
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I just had the ignition switch replaced on my 2001 Toyota Sequioa. Now my blinkers work but will not shut off after I complete the turn. Additionally, the blinker "stick" is very hard to move in either direction. I plan to take my car back to the dealer and politely request this blinker repair be warranty work.
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I have recently been having problems getting the ignition switch to turn. There seems to be a negative correlation to warmer weather (the warmer the weather, the more likely I will have a negative experience --- and I will get the switch to turn only with some difficulty). When I have such a failure (in which the switch does not turn), I take the key out, wipe it off with my hand, flip it over and shove it back in. Sometimes this works with one try. Sometimes it takes multiple tries. My fear, of course, is that one of these times it will never work, and I will be stranded. I should add that I do have another key, and that I have had the same experience with this key. I don't really want to spend hundreds of dollars on a new ignition switch... and I especially don't if that is really not the problem.
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It all began on my 1997 Camry when the driver's front turn signal began the rapid flashing thing, indicating to me that the bulb in the front was out. I replaced the bulb. The running light part works, but the flasher still does not. On the front passenger side of the car, the turn signal works, but the running light does not. I replaced the passenger side bulb at the same time I replaced the driver's side bulb. The flashing turn signal works as it did before, but the running light still does not go on.
The problem shouldn't be the bulbs - they are new. The flasher unit behind the fuse box should affect both lights flashing, so it probably is not that.
What thing or things can cause one light to flash for the turn signal but not be on constantly for the running light (passenger front side) and to work as a running light being constantly on, but not flashing as a turn signal (driver's front side)?
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In the mornings when I turn the ignition switch to on right before starting, I don't hear the fuel pump wining. I notice the wining on almost every other car that Ive drove. I don't know if its because of this I get a rough start. It usually happens only in the mornings especially on cold days. During the rest of the day I can hear it clear and it turns on right away with no problem. I have tried to turn the ignition switch on then off then back on to see if the pump would turn on but nothing. Also sometimes I have to keep the gas pedal down about half ways for it to turn on and not stall. Tomorrow I am going to check to see if any fuel lines are clogged.
Car is a 2000 accent gs 1.5l 12sohc ... With about 87500 miles on it ...
Anything I should replace with these many miles ... Planning to replace spark plugs and timing belt myself ...
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'04 RX330: Starting about a year ago, occasionally when inserting the ignition key it wouldn't turn to start. Take key out try again and it would start. Progressively, it seems to be requiring more and more in/out cycles to get the key to turn. It's like the transponder is not recognizing the key FOB. I have two keys, one is a master and other is a sub key, both have the problem. What has to be done to correct it? I'm afraid the dealer will just change some expensive ignition part when there's an easier fix.
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Camry 2002 XLE 4Cyl. 2.4 ... When I switch ignition key on, there are no ABS and Brake light come on. Why is that happening? How to fix it? Normally, when we switch ignition key on, what are indicator light on?
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