Toyota - Camry :: 1997 - Idling High At Around 2000 RPMs
Feb 7, 2014
I have a 1997 Toyota Camry with over 200,000 miles. It is a manual: 5 speed. In the past few months it has started to idle at around 2000 RPMS, which is way too high. I took the car into a mechanic where I am currently living (Austin, TX), and they couldn't diagnose the problem, because, according to them, it didn't do it the whole time they had it. I admit, it doesn't do it all the time, but I know something is not right. It is beginning to idle high more frequently. How to diagnose this problem and to solve it!!
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I have a 2001 Toyota Camry, Manual, with about 190,000 miles on it and I am having 2 issues that may or (more likely) may not have anything to do with one another.
1) I am experiencing really high (over 3k) RPMs at the lowers speeds in each gear right after I shift, especially in 5th gear. After a few seconds, if I back my foot off the gas, the RPMs drop down to a normal level and increase at a normal speed. Several other people have posted this and supposedly this car might lock me out of overdrive if its cool, but I have a manual, could this be my problem? Also it happens at least sometimes in lower gears as well, it does seem like the car is staying in a lower gear rather than changing when I change it.
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2) My car has gotten really loud, its not a weird noise, just kind of a vrooming type sound, however it is coming from the back of my car (maybe more on the right) when I turn left the sound gets louder and when I turn right the sound goes completely away.
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My toyota will not idle. The last time this happened, it needed a new battery. The idle is controlled by the battery. The alternator doesn't kick in untill 1500 to 2000 rpms. The battery checks out OK this time. It's an 03 4cyl.
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I have a 1998 Toyota Camry , whenever I start it after its been sitting for 3 or more hours the rpm's shoot up to2,000 and stay there for 3-4 minutes straight, if I hit the gas they don't go down, if I turn my heat on they come down a little bit.
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I replaced my engine that had 155,000 miles with a newer used one with about 30,000 miles. since the swap my gas mileage is down by one third or more. Everything else seems fine except that my cold start idle is up to 2000rpm's until it drops to normal within 3 minutes.
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I have a 2005 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6 2wd Edge, with around 175,000 miles. It runs great, however the RPM's are slow to return and it seems to idle a little high for longer than you would expect when starting the engine. For example, exiting off the freeway with the clutch depressed, the RPM's will drop from approximately 2300, pause at 1800 for a second, then drop and pause at 1100 for a few seconds before returning to idle. If stationary and rev the engine, they seem to drop back normally.
So far I have changed the IAC valve and checked for vacuum leaks (not sure how exhaustive a check it was but sprayed every joint I could find). My mechanic agrees that it is abnormal, but has suggested that we wait for it to worsen enough to throw a code rather than spend a lot of time and money replacing things that may not be a problem. Also the throttle cable appears to be functioning normally and not sticking.
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Noticed this morning I was idling at 1000 rpms and was wondering if that's normal or a little high?
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I have a 3.3L 2007 Sonata. Within the past month, after first turning it on in the morning, the RPMs shoot up to about 1400 and slowly come down to normal after about 5 minutes. It does this in park and neutral, when I put it into drive it goes down to normal. If I drive it for a mile and put it back into park and neutral, it idles at a normal RPM. If I turn the car off for ten minutes and start it up again, it idles normal at about ~850 RPMs.
After doing a bit of google research, a lot of sites say that this is a normal thing for a cold engine to do. However, the RPMs have never gone that high previously. The check engine light hasn't come on.
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I have a 2005 Camry SE V6 with 73000k I just got it out of the body shop yesterday and everything seemed fine. i started the car up a short time ago and it stalled out when attempted to drive away. its idling at 400 rpms? I feel that the guys at the shop disconnected something.
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I've had my 2000 Honda Accord V6 for about 3 years now and have had an idling issue pretty much since I purchased it. After driving for at least 50+ miles, and if its hot out it can easily have this issue as well, and leaving the car be for around 15 to 30 minutes, on start up the car drops RPMs immediately and dies. Multiple tries and it will do the exact same thing. Recently I found out a trick to make it work correctly which is revving the engine to 2000RPM for about 3-4 minutes, slowly dropping it down to 1500 RMP for around the same 3-4 minutes and finally down to 1000 RPM for an additional 3-4 minutes and letting off the gas. Usually after doing this the engine idles fine, car drives great. However, it must be noted that on Summer days with temperatures in the 85+ range, if I'm climbing (going up a hill for a long distance) the car might bog down on me, will not go above 50MPH and I have to pull off the side of the road for 45+ minutes before the car will run correctly again. This has happened about 3 or 4 times in the 3 years I've owned the car.
I would rather not have to rev the engine in hopes this fixes the issue each time so I'm wondering what could be the cause in the first place? I've replaced so many things including spark plugs, ignition coils, battery, idle air control valve, gasket, fuel pump, fuel pump relay and on. I gas the car up with Chevron gasoline, I've dumped in I don't know how many different fuel injector cleaners and have also tried Heet as well as Sea Foam cleaner. I've also had the car checked for vacuum leaks.
I've asked multiple mechanics if this could possibly be a vapor lock issue, but they all turn that idea down. They tell me that since the car is fuel injected this can't be the issue..but, I don't know, could it be the issue?
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I own a 2.4L Automatic 2003 Camry XLE.
I've gone to multiple mechanics and none have been able to give me a clear answer. Long story short, I've just recently had a new engine put in.
While it runs fine, there is a tremendous amount of vibration coming off the engine. You can feel it while it's idling, and at all RPMs. It kinda bearable at 1,500 and is the worst at 1,800 RPMs. Beyond 1,800 RPMs, it doesn't get worse, its kinda tapers off just a little.
Notes:
- We've checked the balance shafts and they are aligned correctly.
- No engine code
- Replaced spark plugs
The vibration is bad enough that some screws inside the car have even become loosened. As I said in the beginning, I've gone to multiple mechanics and no luck. What it could be and what to do/try.
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2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I had a knock sensor code and replaced it. Then I had a code for the TPS and I replaced it with the new part today and after replacement the vehicle idles at 2000 RPM. what should I change?
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Inherited a 2000 Saturn SL1 from my daughter. I has an issue of idling high. It idles about 1100 rpm in park, but when I put it in gear that jumps up to about 2000 or so. I can hit 35mph w/o hitting the gas. There's also a noticeable suffer type smell from the car.
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What happened was, the car was not starting (its a manual, so I can push start). I replaced battery but accidentally put it in with the neg connected to pos post and pos. connected to negative.
The car was off when i did it so as far as i know I only blew a couple fuses. So I replaced the fuses and now the car is idling really high. So I cleaned the throttle body, still idling high.
Now, the car wont start unless pushed and I have no ac/heat (the fan has no power).
I have checked all of the fuses and they are fine. I have also tested the Throttle Position Sensor, it is fine.
Could it be the diodes, relays???
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I have an '89 Jeep Cherokee and it idles way to high. In park it idles at from 1500-3000 after being warmed up. In drive it idles at 1300-1500. It idles at 2000 at 35 mph. We've replaced the O2 censor, the throttle positioning censor, the coolant temperature sensor, and a few other parts. None of this worked.
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Baffled that my well-maintained 05 Corolla couldn't smog today. Smog checker said rpms were too high and it got kicked off the machine six times; said he had replaced his cable today. Manual transmission, 96,000 miles and had oil change last week; 93,000 major service included flush of something.
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RPMs fluctuate from very high to very low without me doing anything. It doesn't do it all the time, so far its happened 4-5 times in the past 3 days. I first noticed it when driving, I took my foot off the gas to break and it started doing it and once I hit the gas it stopped. It seems to be getting worse because today I put it in the park and when it should have jumped into idle it started and even when I hit the gas it didn't stop. Like I said the RPMs fluctuate from very high to very low in a few seconds regular intervals.
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I'm worried about my beloved 02 Toyota Rav4. She's been a great car, we've driven all over the continent, never had a mechanical problem. Lately, particularly on humid days, my cruise control will stop working mid-trip and at the same time the RPMs start running high, nearly twice what they usually are. It lasts until I get home, next time I start her she's fine. The guys at the shop never find anything. The engine control module was replaced last year under an "extended warranty."
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My wife has a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am, as seen above. The car recently started having issues, especially when cold, where the RPMs will rise when in gear but the car will not accelerate. It happened from 25 mph and lower while in a subdivision as well as around 45 mph on city streets. I have a feeling this is a transmission issue, but don't have much experience when it comes to transmissions.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry EL that has been running fine - up until about 3 weeks ago. It has developed a problem of stalling when idling, sometimes, not always. My mechanic has replaced the vacuum hose to the idle air control after finding it was cracked. It kept on stalling after that. Then he replaced the exhaust gas recycling valve assembly, but it still will stall at times. I have noticed that sometimes the engine will rev way up then way down while I'm sitting at a stop light. This morning it stalled while I backed out of a parking spot. Only 95K miles on this car, and I would like to keep it going if possible.
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Ok, here is what happens to my car:
The engine wobbles when idling or at very low speed - some times the engine shuts down in stop and go traffic (very dangerous). Doesn't pick up speed when i try to accelerate from a stop position - the engine revs up and then the car lurches forward (suddenly) as the transmission seems to engage. The same happen when i slow down to almost very low speed and then tries to speed up. I also hear a kind of thud (transmission most probably).
The CEL is ON and some time blinks.
My OBD is showing the following codes: P0171 P0172 P1150 P0300 P0302 P0304 and P0306
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