Toyota - Camry :: 1994 - Still Won't Start In Cold Weather
Nov 16, 2013
In Jan my 94 Toyota Camry started having issues with starting- for instance, I would run an errand for 10 minutes get back in the car and it wouldn't start. However, this tended to be random. When this problem happened more often I took it in and they said I needed a new starter so I got one (Feb) and didn't have any issues for a month, but then began to have the same issue on and off again. I took my car back in for the second time and they said it must have been a bad starter. They gave me ANOTHER new starter (Apr) and my issues continued soon after. I took it back in and they didn't have an answer for me other than the starter was good. Took it to another mechanic and he had the car for two days and could not find ANY ISSUE with the car. I let it brush over during the summer months because I never had this issue (June-Aug) and now that it's gotten cold again I'm having this problem.
Few things to note: -Anytime I have this issue I'll hit the starter with a hammer and it will ALWAYS start. This has been the case since January.-It ALWAYS starts in the morning and when I get back in my car after working all day. However, if I were to run errands in the morning or at night it would not start with the stop and go. -This only happens in the cold months -They tested the newest starter and they say there's nothing wrong with it.-Within the past two years I've had MANY things replaced on this car and any shops I've taken it to say it's a great car with no issues they can find.
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Just bought a 1994 Camry Station Wagon, 84,000 km (53,000 miles) in very good condition. The two pre-owners used to keep car in garage inside the house, I keep the Camry out on the street.
Currently, I am experiencing the following problem: When it is cold outside (this is 20 to 25 degrees F), the car would not start the other morning. Everything inside the car is working (i.e. lights, radio, fan, sunroof etc.), a sign that battery is in good shape. Before buying the car, the owner replaced all the expendable parts you can imagine. Once it is getting warmer, the car would start perfectly well.
In the Consumer Guide I read the following about starting problems in the trouble spots section (referring to the 1992-1996 Camry series): "Hard starting: Hard starting after cold soak is due to ignition-coil voltage leaking to an inappropriate ground." All models, not a specific year.
On this thread I just found a comment posted on Jan. 31, 2004 by "yotatechie04", saying that - obviously - a similar problem occured to him on a 1999 model, and he found it had to do with "oil density".
Question: Is hard starting - for example after a cold night - a well known problem to 1994 model? What about the hint regarding "ignition-coil voltage leaking" and "oil density". What can be done?
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2014 se , 7k miles. Get a pretty noticeable sound. its hard to explain its kinda like a grumble for about two seconds. on very cold weather starts.
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Since our weather has turned cold with lows just above 0ºF and highs around 10ºF, and we've had 9" of snow this week, I have been driving a seldom used 1994 LeSabre rather than my "nice" car, an '08 Grand Marquis. There's no point in exposing the newer car to salt and slick streets. At least the interstates are completely cleared off. The LeSabre runs great despite its 177K miles. The only issue I have with the Buick is that it has died repeatedly after a 20 mile run up or down the interstate. I lift my foot or tap the brake pedal to turn off the cruise control, and the engine dies. The first time it did it, I pulled over, stopped, put it in park and restarted it. Now that I know what it's doing, I keep rolling, put it in neutral, and restart it before getting to the bottom of the ramp. I does it ALMOST every time after a long 65 to 70 MPH run. It was not doing it the last time I drove it at more bearable temperatures, in the 40s or 50s so it may not be a problem next week. It does not seem to do it going from stop light to stop light, even at low temperatures. It has the 3.8 Liter V-6. Why it might be doing this?
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My son and I were coming down the mountain on I-70 near Georgetown, Colorado in a snowstorm in his toyota 4runner. We had just gone through the Eisenhower Tunnel. There was alot of traffic, and driving conditions were terrible. We were traveling approximately 10 miles per hour when my son told me that his brakes were not working. We downshifted, and then slid into the guardrail on the median (we were in the left lane). Luckily we were not hurt, and we did not hit anyone else. Once the car was towed back to Denver, the brakes worked again. My son is getting the car checked by a mechanic, but why the brakes gave out and how he can avoid that happening in the future? Was it related to the cold weather (approximate 10 degrees)? I did not feel that he was riding the brakes as we descended. The road was icy at the time.
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Recently purchased a used 2003 Toyota Camry LE. After a recent oil change at the local Toyota dealer we noticed that when we start the car in the morning a puff of white smoke spews out from the exhaust for a few seconds and stops. There is no more white smoke while driving the car around. The car runs perfect and has no power loss. Initially we had noticed it was losing coolant. All the discussion on the internet pointed to a bad head gasket. We had a mechanic look at it and it turned out that the radiator was leaking and hence the loss of coolant. He also noticed the oil was overfilled so he brought it down to the normal level. The mechanic also checked the head gasket and claimed there were no issues with it. Replacing the radiator took care of the coolant loss but the white smoke still comes out only the first time the car is started.
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Since having my engine replaced with a newer used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
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I have a 2004 Sienna LE and it has left/right signal problem (not working) in the morning or when the weather is cold. The problem usually last for about 5 to 10 minutes until the inside car temperature becomes warm.
When this problem happens the emergency lights are working. Only the signal left and right do not work.
Is this a common Sienna problems? I brought the car to the dealer but they refused to fix it because they cannot duplicate the problem. I am guessing when the warranty has expired, they will make suggestion to replace the part but not until then.
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The truck has 230,000 miles and has a squeal that sounds like a belt but it's not. I have put the truck in neutral coasted with the engine off and the noise is still there. The noise only happens when the weather is cold and only when the truck is coasting. Under acceleration the sound goes away.
Toyota Tacoma Prerunner 2003 (2.7)...
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder, and I have been trying to figure out a hard cold start issue that also causes whitish grayish smoke to come out of the tailpipe when I first start the car.
When I first start the car after it has sitting at least 8-10+ hours the engine will crank over and being starting up but its almost as if it hesitates and then fully starts up. Once it does start the smoke will come out of the tailpipe for about 10 - 30 seconds and smells somewhat of burning fuel. I think the problem may be a leaking fuel injector. When I use my car during the day this issue doesn't happen at all after first startup
Coolant level and color : Normal no changes
Oil Color and level : Normal no changes
Tune Up: Done about 2 months ago
I uploaded a video to youtube of the car starting up here [URL] ....
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After the car has been sitting all night in the cold 20 degree weather, it is notchy when I upshift into third from second. I already swapped out the manual trans fluid with Amsoil 75w90 GL-4 manual trans fluid. It didn't really change anything, but I will say that whatever fluid was in there before was quite dark. It may have even been the original fluid from the factory (80,000 miles), I am not sure. The shifter is also a little stiff feeling when its very cold.
Once car has been driven for a little while (20+ minutes), and is warmed up real good it isn't notchy or stiff. Is this just something I have to get used to?
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I have a 2001 Toyota Sienna xle that started running rough when the weather turned cold. When started, the car idles very high and will not shift properly until it was been running for around 5 minutes. After that it will run well for about 10-15 minutes and then begin to run rough or poorly. The problem is very noticeable at low speeds and when stopped. It never actually kills, but it feels like it is going to. At high speeds it is less noticeable but occasionally you will feel it jerk or chug like the transmission is slipping or a belt or something.
I took it to a mechanic who checked the codes and found that the ignition coils were supposedly bad. I say supposedly because they replace three of the ignition coils and the problem still persists. I then took it back to the mechanic who then told me it was the oxygen sensor. The o2 sensor was replaced and the problem is still there with no noticeable improvement. I again to it back to the mechanic who tells me that they scratching their heads.
I have done some looking around on the internet and have found some discussions that seem to have some promising leeds and actually last weeks car talk show had a caller who described a similar problem. The guys told him it could be a oxygen sensor but they thought a better possibility would be EGR valve or a vacuum leak. Not sure if this sienna has an EGR, but I plan to suggest looking into it to the mechanic. Also, I found some discussions talking about the idle control valve and the engine control module.
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My 96 mercedes c280 will not start in the winter. I moved from florida to ohio and when it gets close to freezing or below my car will not start. The lights on rear view mirror (immobilizer lights) blink for 30 sec. I have to wait any where from 5-30 min. to start car depending on how cold it is, otherwise car runs great.
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I replaced my engine that had 155,000 miles with a newer used one with about 30,000 miles. since the swap my gas mileage is down by one third or more. Everything else seems fine except that my cold start idle is up to 2000rpm's until it drops to normal within 3 minutes.
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have an 2009 Toyota Corolla 62K miles. If the car sits out 8 hours or more in VERY COLD (zero degrees) weather makes a 1-2 second clashing/sparking noise the split second after turning the ignition on but before engine starts. I tried to attach video/audio. The car starts and runs fine. isn't a ticking or knocking or tapping noise assoc. with bad engine. It isn't squealing noise assoc. w/ serpentine belt. I've been waiting for it to get cold enough to leave overnight at Toyota dealer. I keep wondering if it isn't related to the botched oil changed at the Toyota dealer a couple yrs ago when they forgot the oil & I ran car about 30-60 seconds. At the time, they said all was okay and did compression test (Cyl 1=178psi, #2=175 #3=180 #4=178) all within the normal specs 145-189. I got a 2nd opinion at another Toyota dealer at time who removed valve cover and inspected cam caps and scoped cylinder walls and said all was okay and compression good. No mechanical problems- uses no oil, check engine light not on, etc. What noise is and why just when very cold and car sits out long time?
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I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma that has a knock or ticking in cold weather. The problem starts sometimes immediately after I start and other times it is only when I press on the gas in the cold mornings after a few min warm up. The noise goes away after 10 min. The question I am wondering is this:
1: could it be worn piston rings and the pistons are slapping the cylinder wall
2: is it an oil pump problem or a oil restriction issue
3: is it a valve guide issue
4: with the history of the 2.7 having exhaust manifold issues (poor manufacturing) could a cracked manifold be the issue
I change the oil myself, the oil filters have been OEM toyota, the noise has been going on since 60,000 miles, the truck is at 230,000 miles.
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My 2003 Camry LE is normally parked in our garage in Southern California so we have no problems. We have gone a few times to Utah, Arizona and other areas in So. Calif when it was very cold and had our alarm go off in the middle of the night. We turn it off and then it keep going off until we start driving it. Dealer doesn't want to disconnect alarm.
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I have a 2004 2.4 liter camry .
When I first started the car it hesitated a bit but,it was very cold. I went to give it a shot of gas but had no pedal response . I shut the car off gave the gas pedal a few whacks and it worked fine .
On the way home the car worked fine for about 30 km , just before I got home the pedal had no response again, shut the car off , started it and drove home .
The next day it was worse , so I put it on a scanner ,the scans said bad throttle position sensor (tps) and also a few codes for throttle body valve sticking or bad signal .
I tried the easy fix first and changed the gas pedal with sensor , same thing , then I changed the throttle body itself , same thing, then went a installed a computer (ecu) and that won't even start the car .
My ecu 89661-06a0, replaced it with 89661-06a2.
The car will start on all 4 cyl and idle high for a few sec then drop like normal , once the idle hits 8k rpm the car is only fires on 2 cylinders 2 and 3 , (changed then swapped coils no difference) as its idling on 2 cylinders and I press the gas pedal it will rev to about 2k rpm and run on all 4.
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i have a 2002 camry le .. my door ajar dash light comes on when the car has been sitting for 2-3 plus hours in cold weather 30 degrees or below ... its draining my battery .. tried lubricating door latches on all 4 doors and has not worked, came back 3 hrs later and door warning light on dash came back on ..
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My Camry Hybrid XLE has been at the dealership for a total of 26 days and 3 unsuccessful repair attempts relating to my dash that constantly creaks and makes cracking noises during cold weather. The shop foreman at the dealership also has not had a single camry (besides mine) come back for a noisy dash. The lemon law in my state kicks in at 30 days in the shop and/or four unsuccessful repairs and the dealer is well aware of this. I currently have the car and am waiting for a 'field technical specialist' to show up to take a look. I was told he/she comes comes 'once a month' but offered no more details than that. I noticed on this forum that some dealerships can call the specialist whenever and have them show up. Apparently mine only comes once a month... My luck will be that it will be too warm the day the specialist shows up and they will not be able to reproduce the issue!
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"Vehicle with smart key system: The indicator light flashes after the "POWER" switch has been turned OFF to indicate that the system is operating." I have noticed that my immobilizer light will not blink when it has the no start issue. usually when the key is out the light blinks but when it won't blink.... it won't start.
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