Toyota - Camry :: 1992 - Transmission Fluid Black / Pint Too Much?
Mar 18, 2012
My 1992 4-cylinder Camry has black transmission fluid and also appears to have a pint too much, according to the dipstick. I've driven the car for 3 years with no transmission problems. Should I do nothing? Should I have the tranny flushed? Should I drain what I can from the drain plug and replace with official Toyota fluid? Is this synthetic tranny fluid? Of course, I was too dumb at purchase, 3 years ago, to check the tranny fluid.
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My car is a Toyota Camry 2003, automatic transmission. I don't know if the previous owner ever change the transmission fluid, but my car has 100k miles already. Today, I took the transmission fluid dipstick out, it look black and smell burnt, but I don't see any metal. I don't know how to take out the pan and check for metallic pieces, is there any auto shop that would do it for free?When I accelerate to 40mph from a complete stop, the RPM goes up the 3000 and then quickly drop to 2000, then gradually drop to 1300. My car speed up really slowly even when I keep holding the gas pedal down with my feet. Is my transmission slipping? Sometimes when I start my car or when I change gear, my car jerk a little. I'm afraid it too bad already and my transmission is depending on the broken metal pieces, so I don't know if I should flush it? Will changing the transmission fluid fix the problem?
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My mechanic says the transmission fluid in my 2007 Rav4 (about 47K, normal driving) is black and needs replacing ($144). I called the local Toyota service department who said this car has a sealed transmission and replacement is not needed. The Toyota maintenance schedule does not recommend replacement until 120K miles.
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My truck is leaking transmission fluid. I know you are going to tell me that i need new seals but, i have taken this truck to many mechanics and they assure me that its not the problem. It is leaking out the vent. There are two holes in the transfer case that we aren't sure if they are plugs but we plugged em anyway just to see what would happen and its still leaking so...not a fix. Apparently this is a rare transfer case and even rarer information to be found bcuz this model was only made for two years and because they were pretty reliable finding people that actually worked on them is even harder. Should I just buy a new transfer case or is there a way to fix this?
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I own a 2007 Toyota Camry XLE with about 95,000 miles and I was wondering if changing the transmission fluid is ever necessary. The maintenance guide, which shows required maintenance for every 5,000 miles through 120,000 miles, never mentions the need to change it (unless I'm doing towing, which I'm not). However, I found some articles on the web which suggest that it should be changed every 50,000 miles.
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My car is a 2003 Toyota Camry with 109,000 miles. At my most recent oil change the mechanic said the transmission fluid was extremely dark. He said if there had been no previous fluid change before 100,000 miles it would do more harm than good to change it now. I cannot find any record of this having been done. Is this advice correct? What does this mean for the function of the transmission?
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I have Toyota Camry 2005 LE, 180.000 miles ( first owner )
Few months back I noticed that my Camry is sputtering on low RPM below 2000 ( but never when engine is cold )
Car is driving perfect on the highway but in the city sputtering get very annoying when on low RPM and high gear.
My remedy for that is to press overdrive off button after this sputtering always goes away.
My transmission fluid level when HOT is 1 inch above HOT mark
And when in cold next ( morning ) label is still above HOT mark
Fluid level never goes down to COLD mark
What are the cause of the tran fluid be on same level and can sputtering be the symptom of it?
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Looking for procedure how to check the level, condition and how to replace transmission fluid on 2012 Camry SE 4cyl? Is there a service manual available for download?
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about a week ago I popped both of the passenger side tires By hitting a rather tall curb while trying to avoid being t-boned. And I have had the passenger side jacked up for about a week now while waiting for the shop to order and get in my new rims. It has been raining here for the past week so I only just noticed today that there was a puddle underneath of my truck.
It looks and feels like engine oil but it is leaking from the back of my transmission. I can't figure what it might be because transmission fluid is red and my transmission has never overheated So it should not be burned. It has 128k miles on it so it also only has 8k miles on the last fluid change. So it's fairly new fluid. What this could be?
I know some seal is obviously broken and the way everything is wet around just the back bottom of the transmission it looks like it is coming from the transmission. I originally thought it was just the transfer case got hit and it could be a bushing at either the transfer case or transmission but there is no scraping on anything under the truck so none of it was hit or damaged from that. What could be causing this?
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My 1999 7.3l Disel 4x4 transmission quit on me the other day. No forward or reverse. Got towed to my regular repair shop, and they are treating the transmission as a black box and recommending total replacement. The diagnostics they performed were to make sure it was shifting, and that indeed it wasn't going forward or reverse. They drained the fluid and said "it's pitch black" and said it had to be completely replaced.
Fluid level was OK, and it wasn't hot. I was driving along, and merging onto the highway. It downshifted, shuddred, and nadda. Free rev. I coasted to the next exit and into a parking lot. Verified that it was shifting, checked Rev and all forwards. It wouldn't shift into 4W, and 1-2 also wouldn't move.
I'm trying to figure out what might have happened... and if it's worth trying to have the truck towed to a transmission shop and have them diagnose and rebuild, vs just getting a remanufactured transmission. None of the local wreckers have any used transmissions, and the cost between a reman and a used is pretty negligible...
Not sure what the symptoms points to for exact failure mode, be it the torque converter, pump, input shaft, etc... I've never had an automatic transmission apart before, but built plenty of motors and am a machinist by trade. My preference is to try and root cause the failure...
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I am looking to black out my front and rear Toyota emblem/badges. I would like to get matte black. I've seen a few 2012 Camry's with it, but am not having any luck finding them online.
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Car Jerks when a/c is on and acceleration becomes jam power steering and brakes becomes harder then normal situation (a/c is off). Why? I have Camry Prominent 2.5L 1992 model.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry EL that has been running fine - up until about 3 weeks ago. It has developed a problem of stalling when idling, sometimes, not always. My mechanic has replaced the vacuum hose to the idle air control after finding it was cracked. It kept on stalling after that. Then he replaced the exhaust gas recycling valve assembly, but it still will stall at times. I have noticed that sometimes the engine will rev way up then way down while I'm sitting at a stop light. This morning it stalled while I backed out of a parking spot. Only 95K miles on this car, and I would like to keep it going if possible.
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I have 1992 toyota camry recently bought 68k miles on it ok the brakes were bad so i change all four brakes drums and pads
with in a month my right rare brakes gon again pads all the way to the metal so i thought caliper might have gown bad i change the
caliper next month my left rare brakes gon pads all the way to the metal again i change the caliper. its not over yet with in one month my right rare brakes
gon pads completly so what seems to be the problem.
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We have a 1992 Toyota Camry which runs great except that it stalls at every stop light. We have had the engine, distributor, coil, coolant temperature sensor; computer, and EGR valve checked. Yesterday the mechanic stated there was nothing wrong with the EGR Valve, what to check next?
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry. About once every 15 to 20 times I turn the ignition, the car won't start. Sometimes there's just a click and then nothing, and sometimes all the lights on the dashboard will flash for a second and then nothing, in each case the starter does not turn over. However, I discovered that instead of needing a jump from another car, if I just connect the jumper cables to the battery and leave the other end of the cable on the ground, the car will start right up after this happens. One other note, the clock is always reset after this. What is the problem and how can this be fixed?
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My 1992 Toyota Camry was making increasingly worse sounds under the hood. On my way to my mom's mechanic, something snapped and the car stopped running. I asked the mechanic to check it out and let me know how much it would cost to fix it. He told me a needed a new timing belt, water pump, and everything else that goes along with it. The engine, because of Toyota's design was fine.
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I had the front engine mount replaced on my V6 - 3VZ and most of the what I call a clunk has been solved but when traveling at most speeds and taking my foot off the accelerator the transmission seems to clunk and when I reapply acceleration it clunks again. Its like the transmission has to catch up or decrease to the engine speed......my way of describing it!
The mechanic who replaced my front engine mount talked to his friend in the transmission business and they feel it may be a chain in the transmission that is stretched (like a bicycle chain) and the slack causes the clunk. I have never heard of a transmission using a chain, however, I have no clue. Is there a chain? If there is, can it be tightened? If there is not, is there something else that can be tightened? What can I do to eliminate the clunk?
The fluid was changed last year and is red. We are retired and can't afford a transmission rebuild. Everything else is in good shape on this 1992 with 229,000 kms. at this time.
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Smokes comes out of hood, check engine light is on, ABS light is on, the rpm needle jumps When I stop it jumps to #2, when it does that also the car shakes like vibrating.....
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I have a '92 toyota camry that we just purchased and put a new engine in... now it's stalling when you come to a stop and are taking your foot off the accelerator. we've tried a fuel injector, a fuel clean, fixed vacuum leaks, and replaced the fuel filter, and fuel preside regulator... it's still doing it and is getting worse.
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Since having my engine replaced with a newer used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
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