I have a '92 toyota camry that we just purchased and put a new engine in... now it's stalling when you come to a stop and are taking your foot off the accelerator. we've tried a fuel injector, a fuel clean, fixed vacuum leaks, and replaced the fuel filter, and fuel preside regulator... it's still doing it and is getting worse.
View 1 RepliesAfter putting my front end back together except new springs, new shocks, and new track bar, just to give everyone a little history of what I've done to it. I've had it for 8 months and maybe put 1000 miles if that because of working out of town a lot and the front end torn apart. I've noticed a louder roar coming from the rear end when taking my foot off the accelerator without pressing the brake. It feels like the tow button is engaged, but isnt. I have no issues with handling besides knowing it still needs alignment. I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow for a 4 wheel alignment. It sounds and feels like I'm riding on mud terrain tires.
View 14 RepliesWe have a 1992 Toyota Camry which runs great except that it stalls at every stop light. We have had the engine, distributor, coil, coolant temperature sensor; computer, and EGR valve checked. Yesterday the mechanic stated there was nothing wrong with the EGR Valve, what to check next?
View 2 RepliesEver since I got a brake job, my brake lights have come on, all 8 of them. Traction Control, ABS, Brake, etc. Every once in a while they will go off and be normal for a day or two then they will come back on. The service center that did the brake job said everything looks good, it must be a faulty brake actuator.
The brakes work fine although on starting I have to remove my foor from the petal and then reapply it to move the transmission from park to drive. When on the highway doing 70 mph or so, when I take my foot off the accelerator I hear a pop coming from under the rear of the car mostly on the passenger side. In about 5 minutes, I'll hear it again. It sounds like pressure is being built up than all of a sudden released with a pop.
Actuator replacement and I rather not go through the expense if it is air in the brake line of a faulty sensor.
So I have a 2005 Camry XLE, 3.0 l V6 with 160k miles. The car was running fine, but I decided to change the spark plugs today (overdue).
I went through the headache of removing the intake manifold, throttle body etc and everything seemed to go OK. I reassembled it all and now it won't idle properly.
It seems like a vacuum leak issue to me, but I have double checked the multiple hose connections. I did NOT disconnect the battery at any time.
I can Rev it up to 3 or 4000 rpm and it runs smoothly (all the cylinders seem to be firing) but it runs rough and dies without my foot on the accelerator. Also I noticed the exhaust manifold got cherry red like right now... after only a minute or two of running.
Are there any troubleshooting checks I can perform to narrow down the source of the vacuum leak?
When starting the car (2002 Toyota Camry XLE) with 114k miles, I noticed that I can gasoline. I also have a rare intermittent stalling when brake & come to a stop. Earlier post: [URL] ....
What could cause the smell of gasoline when I start my car? Is this something that needs to be fixed or can it be ignored? Would this be something that could cause intermittent stalling when braking? After the stall happens, I'm unable to immediately start the car but it starts normally after 15 minutes. Is this the result of some flooding by the gasoline?
I have a 2000 Expedition that hesitates and sometimes stalls when taking off from a dead stop. The problem is not consistent and therefore hard to diagnose. I have had it to the dealership and two other mechanics and none of them have been able to fix the problem. So far they have replaced the intake gasket, fuel filter, EGR and PCV valves and have changed the PFE sensor and connecting lines. It seems they are just throwing parts at the problem and haven't a clue what is wrong. There are no error codes in the computer.
So far I have spent around $1,500 on this problem and it is not any better from when I started and it might actually be a little worse. I seem to think the problem is in the fuel system and not electrical because all lights and gauges function normally when the problem happens. I can also sometimes produce the hesitation by shifting the transmission into second gear while going around 50 mph then giving it a good bit of throttle after the engine revs. What could be going on.
My car has about 180K miles on it and it's a manual transmission. It's a champ, and I love it. But sometimes when you first drive it ( not sure if it's only when the weather is cold, but I don't think so) if you are sitting at a stop with your foot on the brake then engine surges up and down, if you take your foot off the brake it stops.
View 3 RepliesI was a passenger in a pickup truck that seemed to have the accelerator stick as he came to a stop, and it tried to lurch forward suddenly and rear end the guy ahead of us. Truck is a 2005 Toyota Tacoma automatic trans. with the big 4 cylinder engine. It only has happened to him infrequently. Is this a common problem with this particular vehicle?
View 13 RepliesI have an 08 RAV4 that has an issue when turning left and right and sometimes when taking off from a rolling stop. It seems that the body and engine want to move but the tires do not. I have taken the vehicle to 4 mechanics including dealership and everyone says the transmission is fine, axles and joints are supposed to be fine as well as drive train. I currently have about 25000 miles left on a warranty and don't want to lose the use of the warranty.
View 9 RepliesWhen I am driving along in my 2000 Toyota Camry 6 cylinder, and my foot is on the gas, my car slows down by itself. When this happens it sounds like gears are changing or like when you run out of gas, (the car is automatic and the gas tank full). After this happens the car speeds up again.
View 8 RepliesTwo days ago I had the front brake pads on my 2003 Toyota Camry LE replaced because they were squeaking when I stopped. That squeak stopped, but after driving about 15 miles, I heard a squeaking noise AFTER I took my foot OFF the brake pedal. Pressing the pedal makes the squeak go away. I took the car back the next day and they changed the front rotors. While driving home, the squeak returned. I took the car to my regular mechanic this time. He says the guys who installed the brakes didn't clean anything when they put the new ones on, so he disassembled everything, cleaned the rotors, etc. and put everything back together. He also said they put the wrong pads on the car - I need ceramic pads and they used the metallic kind. Well, the brakes are still squealing when I'm not pressing on the brake pedal and stop squealing when I do press it.
Characteristics of the squeak....It only seems to happen when I drive the car more than 5-10 miles. When I drive a short distance, it doesn't happen. The sound is rhythmic, not constant. If I step on the brake and let if off slowly, like at a stop light, I can hear it "squeak, squeak, squeak" as the tire rotates. The faster the wheel spins, the more constant the sound. It only seems to come from the driver's side.
I hate to take the car back to the original shop because I don't think they know what they're doing. I'm scared of getting ripped off at one of the big chains (I'm a female and of course whenever I take a car in for service at one of those places "everything needs to be replaced.")
Will Toyota ceramic pads fix the problem? Can the wrong pads cause the brakes to squeak when you're not stepping on the brake pedal? Someone else suggested it might be the caliper binding and that would require replacing it.
When I am driving along with my foot on the gas petal, the car slows down, it drags, (sounds like changing gears) then resumes speed all by itself. My friend told me he thought perhaps the gas was dirty and to get the gas filter changed. When I took it to the mechanic, he said my 2002 Toyota Camry six cylinder, automatic did not have a gas filter. The problems still exists.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2016 Elantra that was bought brand new in October of last year. Since about January, the front end of the car bucks when taking your foot off the accelerator to slow down. The brakes do not need to be applied to cause this to happen. When I say it bucks, it happens repeatedly for 3-5 seconds and everyone in he car can feel it. This happens mainly when going at speeds of 20-30 mph and when going short distances such as stop sign to stop sign or in bumper to bumper traffic. If I put the car in neutral the bucking instantly stops. Unfortunately this doesn't happen every day so the dealer has not been able to replicate it as of yet.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 Azera Limited, and over the past few months I have noticed that when driving it is dark, my headlights will dim drastically either when I brake under about 30 mph, or when I let up on the gas going around 30-35 mph. I can see the tach drop to below 500 rpm, and the interior lights will also dim. It frustrates me because I took it to the dealership yesterday to have them look at this, and they said they couldn't see anything wrong. They said there were no error codes, the alternator was fine, and the battery looked fine. They said "just keep an eye on it" when I picked it up yesterday.
This morning on my drive to work it happened about 5 times. It bugs me because I feel as if it is going to stall, and when the lights dim like that, I can't see!! It's usually brief - about a second or so - but still. What it would be, so when I take it back to them I can tell them what is going on? I love my Azera, but to be honest I don't know much about the inner-workings of cars, so where to start if I was to look at it myself. It seems electrical, but they assured me that nothing was wrong.
I have a 1999 Toyota Camry (4-cylinder). When I step on the accelerator, it hesitates for a moment before accelerating. Once it finally does kick in, it isn't jerky but fairly smooth, just takes a while before it will go. Other times, when I accelerate, and the car is actually moving, I feel as though the RPMs are higher than they should be considering the (slow) speed that I'm going. These problems have increased quite a bit over the past few weeks.
Prior to this, my check engine light came on. An autozone employee checked the code related to the light and said I have a faulty EGR. He didn't seem to know whether or not this would be at all related to my acceleration problem. Someone else suggested that an EGR's importance is more environmental than functional. While I'm all for "being green"...can only afford one problem at a time, and the acceleration problem comes first.
If the two are connected, and if not, what my acceleration problem might be? How critical is a properly working EGR anyhow? The actual code according to autozone was EGR P0401...
I have 2005 Prius, 53K miles on it. Bought it as used car few months ago. It has been running great since then.
Since last few weeks I have been hearing a soft beep every time I take foot off the brake. Today I had my windows down while driving and I realized that the soft beep is actually a loud noise like squeak or beep. I can hear a noise every time I take foot off the brake (NOT when putting foot on the brake).
Anyone can standing near the car or other car drivers at red-light can hear the sound too.. This happens when- the Car is in D, I take foot off the accelerator and press the brake (to slow down or complete stop) then take foot off the brake.
The headlights went out on the automatic "arrive home mode" more than the programmed 15 seconds. The interior overhead and foot lights took as much as 5 minutes to cease and desist.
V6, silver/gray
Today I noticed that it feels like my R decelerates rather quickly as soon as I take my foot off the gas. In my old GTI, it seemed that it would glide in whatever gear I was in for a while. In this, however, It seems to slow down VERY quickly if I am not pressing in the accelerator.
Am I just crazy, or could this be an actual issue? My only thoughts are that the emergency brake cable is too tight and the brake is stuck on a little bit? Any thoughts?
I do have a CEL on from code P3801, which I read is most likely the ECT sensor. I know this may cause a loss of gas mileage, but could this be the culprit of this (almost) issue?
I have a 1997 Toyota 4Runner SR5, 6 cylinder with 188,000 miles. I love my car, it's treated me well over the years. About 2 months ago it started stalling at stop lights, etc. Basically, any time I came to a stop and it was idling while in gear. I start it right back up and when my foot's on the gas, it doesn't stall. After 10 times or so I learned that if I took it out of gear the RPMs went up a little and it didn't stall. About 2 weeks later the "check engine" like went on so I figured, now it's time to take it somewhere. So I took it to a mechanic that I've been to before and trusted (here in San Francisco) and he said, "oh.. it's probably just an idle adjustment" so I think, great, no big deal.
After a few days he said wasn't the idle and that after testing he found that all 6 cylinders were randomly misfiring. So he needed to change the spark plugs cause they were down to a bare nub. I figured, ok, it's about time anyway. He said it could also be the ignitor?, he didn't sound 100% positive, but told me there's probably something wrong with it since it's pretty old too and that's all he could think of. So he changed all 6 spark plugs and the ingintor and the engine light was still on. It was stalling less frequently, but still randomly stalling.
He then said he was going to have his Toyota specialist friend look at it. His friend couldn't figure out what was wrong either. Then he sent to to the Toyota dealer, they checked everything they could think of, but couldn't diagnose the real cause either. Apparently they even checked the "Dynamic Balancer"? I'm not even sure my car has one of those. They might as well have told me it needed a new agonculator (totally made up word) for all I knew. So they had my car for 3 weeks and finally I said, enough is enough, these guys can't figure it out. After 3 weeks of hearing how much money they spent on other people to figure out it, I finally said, let's stop the bleeding. The car still runs and doesn't stall that much. The last thing they tried was 2 series of a fuel injection flush (decarbonize)? So they did that with not a whole lot of improvement. They also managed to run all the gas out of my car and by the time I picked it up, the fuel light was on and I took it immediately to a gas station. No joke, they burned about 1/2 tank of gas and didn't refill it.
After 3 weeks and $1000, they come up with "we don't know what's wrong, but use Premium gas and it might fix itself". In the end they told me they were down to only one misfire, cylider #4. Also, the "check engine" light is still on. Since I've gotten it back it hasn't stalled, so there's an improvement. But I'm no closer to figuring out what's wrong that's keeping the check engine light on. Needless to say, I'm not taking it back to these guys.
The engine continues to rev after I take my foot off the accelerator. Does it under many different conditions, but especially the engine needs to be warmed up for it to do this. Toyota just called to say there is nothing wrong with it, even though I had a technician drive it and tell me "this is messed up!" Apparently the master technician that worked on it today didn't have a clue. Under warranty and will fight it! What is wrong with the car?
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