Toyota - Camry :: 1992 - Jerks When A/C Is On
Jan 31, 2011
Car Jerks when a/c is on and acceleration becomes jam power steering and brakes becomes harder then normal situation (a/c is off). Why? I have Camry Prominent 2.5L 1992 model.
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I have a 1998 Toyota Camry v6 with about 90k miles on it. When I am driving and hold the gas pedal steady the car jerks and hesitates. If I press down on the gas I can power through the problem. It also does this when I set the cruise control. There is no check engine light on.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry EL that has been running fine - up until about 3 weeks ago. It has developed a problem of stalling when idling, sometimes, not always. My mechanic has replaced the vacuum hose to the idle air control after finding it was cracked. It kept on stalling after that. Then he replaced the exhaust gas recycling valve assembly, but it still will stall at times. I have noticed that sometimes the engine will rev way up then way down while I'm sitting at a stop light. This morning it stalled while I backed out of a parking spot. Only 95K miles on this car, and I would like to keep it going if possible.
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I have 1992 toyota camry recently bought 68k miles on it ok the brakes were bad so i change all four brakes drums and pads
with in a month my right rare brakes gon again pads all the way to the metal so i thought caliper might have gown bad i change the
caliper next month my left rare brakes gon pads all the way to the metal again i change the caliper. its not over yet with in one month my right rare brakes
gon pads completly so what seems to be the problem.
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We have a 1992 Toyota Camry which runs great except that it stalls at every stop light. We have had the engine, distributor, coil, coolant temperature sensor; computer, and EGR valve checked. Yesterday the mechanic stated there was nothing wrong with the EGR Valve, what to check next?
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry. About once every 15 to 20 times I turn the ignition, the car won't start. Sometimes there's just a click and then nothing, and sometimes all the lights on the dashboard will flash for a second and then nothing, in each case the starter does not turn over. However, I discovered that instead of needing a jump from another car, if I just connect the jumper cables to the battery and leave the other end of the cable on the ground, the car will start right up after this happens. One other note, the clock is always reset after this. What is the problem and how can this be fixed?
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My 1992 Toyota Camry was making increasingly worse sounds under the hood. On my way to my mom's mechanic, something snapped and the car stopped running. I asked the mechanic to check it out and let me know how much it would cost to fix it. He told me a needed a new timing belt, water pump, and everything else that goes along with it. The engine, because of Toyota's design was fine.
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My 1992 4-cylinder Camry has black transmission fluid and also appears to have a pint too much, according to the dipstick. I've driven the car for 3 years with no transmission problems. Should I do nothing? Should I have the tranny flushed? Should I drain what I can from the drain plug and replace with official Toyota fluid? Is this synthetic tranny fluid? Of course, I was too dumb at purchase, 3 years ago, to check the tranny fluid.
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Smokes comes out of hood, check engine light is on, ABS light is on, the rpm needle jumps When I stop it jumps to #2, when it does that also the car shakes like vibrating.....
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I have a '92 toyota camry that we just purchased and put a new engine in... now it's stalling when you come to a stop and are taking your foot off the accelerator. we've tried a fuel injector, a fuel clean, fixed vacuum leaks, and replaced the fuel filter, and fuel preside regulator... it's still doing it and is getting worse.
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Since having my engine replaced with a newer used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
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I replaced my engine that had 155,000 miles with a newer used one with about 30,000 miles. since the swap my gas mileage is down by one third or more. Everything else seems fine except that my cold start idle is up to 2000rpm's until it drops to normal within 3 minutes.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry. It had been burning gas, losing powere, white smoke smoking excessively through the tailpipe, and idling extremely rough, sometimes to the point of dying. It ran ok at highway speeds, but terrible everywhere else. We figured that it was getting moisture into the engine. We essentially did an upper engine overhaul, replacing gaskets and parts as necessary. It ran fine after this, and then three weeks later, started having the same symptoms. I found gas in the oil, changed oil, which turned it to run smoother, but still smoked and died at idle. I found out the clutch fan barely blows. I can't afford to get an actual mechanic involved, but I don't know where to look next.
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My sister has a 1991 toyota celica GT ITS 5spd with the 2.2L in it which is the 2200 twin cam and all that. Last week her alternater went out. I replaced it and got the correct belt tension good volts going everything but now when she is going down the road doesn't matter what gear anywhere from 1800-2800 rpms her car jerks like its missing i checked the plugs and they are white which means its starving for fuel but when its cold its no problem drives perfect i was thinking replacing new plugs new wire distributor cap and fuel filter and seeing if that solves it...
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Recently purchased a 2005 4Runner Sport 4x4. I bought it before they had the chance to give it the once over but they agreed to do a safety inspection the next day. The car was in tip top shape so I was not concerned. As I was driving it home I noticed the car was jerking or rocking slightly as I was coming to a stop. I didn't think much of it but when they inspected the car the next day they found the driver side CV boot was leaking and needed to be replaced, which they did for free. When i dropped it off, I asked if they could look at the cause of the jerking and they said it was likely due to the CV boot and it would go away after the repair. Well it did not go away. I'm wondering what is causing this jerking and if it's worth a trip to the shop to have it fixed or worth going back to the dealer and making them fix it. Should I be concerned about safety?
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I have a 2010 Matrix with automatic transmission. 5.5 year old with only 44,000 KM ... The transmission jerks annoyingly when up-shifting from gear one to two. I replaced the transmission oil and had Toyota service confirm there is a problem.
I read that the accumulator should be checked and adjusted as well as the throttle which can be done without removing the transmission, but Toyota tells met hat everything is now electronic and there is nothing to adjust. How to proceed?
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My Corolla seems to be dying on me. What could be wrong with it.
It burns oil (a lot: 1.5 liters on 380 km). Black/ blue? smoke from the exhaust.
Idles very low at times (800rpm) and a little high at other times (1300rpm?).
Jerks / stutters while driving (since valve cover gasket (I think that was the one) was changed, due to burning of oil)
Clicking sounds while accelerating.
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I have a 2009 Camry v6 and having trouble while driving and you take your foot off the pedal like coming to a red light and give it gas between 25-35 mph the transmission jerks pretty hard?
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I am the original owner of a 2002 Camry V6. Recently when you take the foot off the gas to coast or just maintain speed there is a sensation of jerking- it disappears as soon as you accelerate. Took it to Toyota dealership- they were clueless- they wanted to change the transmission fluid.
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So a few days ago until now I've noticed the transmission jerks as I am driving, like a slight stall and such. Could this mean my transmission is failing, I feel as if the car chokes. My car currently had 8900 miles, all highway driven.
While I was doing some reading, I noticed some people had their ECU resetted. Also my average mpg is 10 mpg on a v4.
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I changed all of the brakes on her car yesterday, test drove it, everything was great. Put close to 100 miles on it w/ no issues. Therefore, I don't think it's anything I did.on her way to work, the CEL came on. The car has a rough-ish idle, and jerks slightly in low RPM. I went to Pep Boys and got it read. it threw 8 codes:
P0171
P1130
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
P0442
From what i've read, the p0171 is the system is running too lean and p0442 is a leak somewhere. The 300s are cyl misfires.I don't want to go replacing every conceivable part. What these codes mean in conjunction?
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