Toyota - Camry :: 1992 - Brakes And Pads Gone After One Month
Feb 25, 2013
I have 1992 toyota camry recently bought 68k miles on it ok the brakes were bad so i change all four brakes drums and pads
with in a month my right rare brakes gon again pads all the way to the metal so i thought caliper might have gown bad i change the
caliper next month my left rare brakes gon pads all the way to the metal again i change the caliper. its not over yet with in one month my right rare brakes
gon pads completly so what seems to be the problem.
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I start hearing sound when i hit brake, i haven't checked the pad yet but i think it is time to change the pad. BTW, i have 2012 Camry SE I4 with 36xxx miles. So should i go with toyota pad or aftermarket pad?
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I recently had rotors and brake pads replaced on my 2007 Camry (front pads/rotors and read pads/rotors).
It was done last week and she is braking fine. But sometimes now when I brake there's a low-medium squeaking sound from the brakes. Is this normal / what's the likely cause?
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05 Camry, 2.4L, 47K. Replaced the front brake pads two months ago. I put in Akebono pads and did nothing with the rotors as the original pads were not completely worn out and there is no vibration whatsoever in the pedal.
The pads have recently started making noise on brake application. I'm getting ready to take them back apart and re-lube everything. Should I take some sandpaper to the pads & rotors to knock off any glazing? Do I hit it with a course or fine grit? I have not had this problem happen in the past and was thinking that maybe it is the quality of the pads but I believe these are oem...
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Car Jerks when a/c is on and acceleration becomes jam power steering and brakes becomes harder then normal situation (a/c is off). Why? I have Camry Prominent 2.5L 1992 model.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry EL that has been running fine - up until about 3 weeks ago. It has developed a problem of stalling when idling, sometimes, not always. My mechanic has replaced the vacuum hose to the idle air control after finding it was cracked. It kept on stalling after that. Then he replaced the exhaust gas recycling valve assembly, but it still will stall at times. I have noticed that sometimes the engine will rev way up then way down while I'm sitting at a stop light. This morning it stalled while I backed out of a parking spot. Only 95K miles on this car, and I would like to keep it going if possible.
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We have a 1992 Toyota Camry which runs great except that it stalls at every stop light. We have had the engine, distributor, coil, coolant temperature sensor; computer, and EGR valve checked. Yesterday the mechanic stated there was nothing wrong with the EGR Valve, what to check next?
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry. About once every 15 to 20 times I turn the ignition, the car won't start. Sometimes there's just a click and then nothing, and sometimes all the lights on the dashboard will flash for a second and then nothing, in each case the starter does not turn over. However, I discovered that instead of needing a jump from another car, if I just connect the jumper cables to the battery and leave the other end of the cable on the ground, the car will start right up after this happens. One other note, the clock is always reset after this. What is the problem and how can this be fixed?
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My 1992 Toyota Camry was making increasingly worse sounds under the hood. On my way to my mom's mechanic, something snapped and the car stopped running. I asked the mechanic to check it out and let me know how much it would cost to fix it. He told me a needed a new timing belt, water pump, and everything else that goes along with it. The engine, because of Toyota's design was fine.
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My 1992 4-cylinder Camry has black transmission fluid and also appears to have a pint too much, according to the dipstick. I've driven the car for 3 years with no transmission problems. Should I do nothing? Should I have the tranny flushed? Should I drain what I can from the drain plug and replace with official Toyota fluid? Is this synthetic tranny fluid? Of course, I was too dumb at purchase, 3 years ago, to check the tranny fluid.
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I just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
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Smokes comes out of hood, check engine light is on, ABS light is on, the rpm needle jumps When I stop it jumps to #2, when it does that also the car shakes like vibrating.....
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I have a '92 toyota camry that we just purchased and put a new engine in... now it's stalling when you come to a stop and are taking your foot off the accelerator. we've tried a fuel injector, a fuel clean, fixed vacuum leaks, and replaced the fuel filter, and fuel preside regulator... it's still doing it and is getting worse.
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Since having my engine replaced with a newer used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
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A recent Car Talk column mentioned advantages to ceramic brake pads.
So, when I took my wife's '92 Accord EX in for routine service I asked about them.
Service knew nothing and referred me to Parts. The Parts guy said they don't use them, adding "They wear the rotors faster!"
Is this really a problem???
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I replaced my engine that had 155,000 miles with a newer used one with about 30,000 miles. since the swap my gas mileage is down by one third or more. Everything else seems fine except that my cold start idle is up to 2000rpm's until it drops to normal within 3 minutes.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry. It had been burning gas, losing powere, white smoke smoking excessively through the tailpipe, and idling extremely rough, sometimes to the point of dying. It ran ok at highway speeds, but terrible everywhere else. We figured that it was getting moisture into the engine. We essentially did an upper engine overhaul, replacing gaskets and parts as necessary. It ran fine after this, and then three weeks later, started having the same symptoms. I found gas in the oil, changed oil, which turned it to run smoother, but still smoked and died at idle. I found out the clutch fan barely blows. I can't afford to get an actual mechanic involved, but I don't know where to look next.
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I purchased a 1992 F-250 last month. About a week ago I topped off all the fluids (including brake). I was driving it around the day after topping off the fluids and noticed that half the brake reservoir was empty. Topped it off again and did not notice much of a leak at all (I may have done something wrong, not sure what). Parked it and found a small leak in the rear passenger side brake bleeder/cylinder/line (couldn't tell exactly). Took apart the brake and found that the drum and shoes were bad, so Installed new drums, shoes, cylinders, and spring kits in both rear tires.
Started bleeding from the rear right (farthest) until no more bubbles. Went to the left and bled until no more bubbles..... decided to check the right and every time the brakes were pressed, i heard a bubbling/spitting noise (not sure exactly how to explain it) and more small bubbles came out. Went back to the left brake bled again, noticed a few bubbles, but was fine shortly after. What it might be? The brakes seem to be working ok for now though.
The right side brake (problem brake) has a newer line installed. The screw that connects the line to the cylinder seems like it is not in all the way, yet it is snug (I didn't cross threads when I installed it). I'm thinking that air may be being sucked in at the screw and eventually make it through the system... maybe not?
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A few hours ago my friend was getting off the interstate driving a 99' Toyota Camry. She went to use the brakes and they had no effect. They did not go all the way to the floor and she says there was a lack of pressure/resistance , then a grabbing feeling before the floor but no effect and no sounds. She had to use the emergency brake. It was 14 degrees last night and above 32 today. The brakes worked from the house to the interstate, then did not.It has been towed and so far the mechanics say they can't find anything wrong.
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I drive a 1997 Toyota Camry with 210,000 miles on it. Recently, my brakes were grinding. My ex-mechanic father said he would replace them. When he took the wheel off, he found that the calipers were bound and had been for awhile, as the rotors and pads were metal on metal (whoops). Both sides were completely replaced- pads, rotors, and calipers (he figured if one caliper was binding, the other was or could be soon, though the wear wasn't as bad). He bled the brakes and things were ok for about a month and a half.
My new issue is that the brakes are binding on my drive home from work (after it sits outside for 7-10 hours). The car lugs along. I pull over, try pumping the pedal (which is very stiff) and then make my way home, where my boyfriend takes the car around the block and does something magic and the brakes are no longer stuck. They aren't stuck the next morning, but are when I get in the car at the end of the work day. The wheel wells smell strongly of burning rubber as well.
Things we have checked : We've jacked up both front wheels and the tires spin. They spin less easily when the brake binding problem is present, but they still spin. We've checked the suction, the hoses that connect the booster to the engine, and the brake booster- all appear ok. The brake fluid levels are fine. The pedal remains stiff when you put the car in neutral and even when you turn it off. So what do I do next? We're semi-handy and I'd like to drive this car a bit longer, though I've started the replacement car search.
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry, I was having a noise from right rear and every now and then the car would start slowing down like I was braking. I replaced all four calipers, rotors and the pads, then bled the whole system. The noise went away, but the car still seems to engage the brakes, but only after a few minutes of driving, but then it goes away.
I thought it was a single brake line, but after not driving it for a week, yesterday I was driving it and after about 20 minutes it started again, when I pulled over all for wheels were smoking, after allowing it to sit for a few minutes, I was able to drive home 30 miles without it happening again. Would this happen with just one line bad, as someone suggested, or is this an issue with the master cylinder, bad brake fuild or something else?
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