Toyota - Avalon :: Check Engine Light Stays On
May 12, 2013
The "Check Engine Light" is on. When I brought it in for the annual inspection (NY), the diagnosis was "lean fuel mixture". The fuel filter was replaced (the car has over 110,000 miles on it), and some adjustments were made in the computer, or the sensors (I don't remember which). It was found that one adjustment was effective at low speeds, and the other one was necessary for 2000 RPM. A valve cover gasket was replaced because of an oil leak, but I don't see how this could have contributed to the problem. I drove it for about 10 miles and the light went on again. What the cause might be?
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1998 Corolla LD ... Diagnostic tests show that my check engine light stays on due to a charcoal canister. Is this an expensive repair?
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I have a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3L. The CHECK GAUGES light stays on, and the oil pressure gauge stays at 0. The oil is full, and the engine runs and sounds fine. I drove it about 5 miles with no change. Up until now, the gauge has worked normally. Could it be the sending unit?
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I have a 2000 B5 . It has minor damage front and rear (cosmetic only). Also, the check engine light stays on due to a vacuum leak somewhere between the MAF and the intake manifold. It would need a full paint job at some point after the body work was completed.
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I have a check engine and air bag light that stays on. I was told if I dis-connect the battery, it will clear the codes. I need an inspection and I'm short of time.
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe 3.5 6, FWD, 54k miles, that has been having the check engine light go on and off. Recently with in the pass month and a half the dealership has perform the recall adjustment, changed the manifold intake assy, changed the ECM with all visits rendered a P200A code. After changing the manifold assy, check engine light was off and fuel gage was at a 1/4 tank. Stop by a gas station and filled up and the light comes on. Remove gas cap after turning off engine and secured gas cap as directed on the cap of one click and light stays on. Turning into the dealership for the 4th time.
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The check engine light stays on. The hood of my car was not securely locked when I purchased it, I'm sure it's due to an accident because it's damaged. Can the hood be a reason the check engine light stays on..it does not blink.
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I have 2001 Wolfsberg Edition 4D jetta (gas) with 180,000 miles, manual transmission. The engine light has been on for years and years. Usually what I do is take it in for an oil change just before a smog. They re-set the codes. I drive it to my office and back and the light would stay off and I could smog it. Until recently. In April, I took the car in for an oil change. And when I picked it up, it ran terribly. It was lurching like crazy. I had to keep slip the clutch to drive it until it warmed up and the it would mostly start running OK. I took it back to my mechanic and he thought it was a timing belt. I had already changed the timing belt at 119,000 miles.
It seemed odd to me that this procedure needed to be done again after 60,000 miles, but I went ahead and had it done. That did not fix the problem. Then the mechanic replaced the air mass meter. That didn't work. Then he replaced the coils. That didn't work. My mechanic has had the car for a month and can't seem to figure out what to do. He keeps getting different error codes - codes that don't seem to make sense to him. The car needs to a smog (my registration date is June), but he can't smog it because we can't get the check engine light to stay off long enough.
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My wife was about to go into work today and when she started the Accent she said it started rough and revved up two or three times and the check engine light flashed 5 or 6 times. The light stayed on solid after that but there was no loss of power, smoke, low gas mileage or vibrating or any other symptoms after initial start up. I plan to take it to an auto parts store tomorrow (the car is at her work about 20 miles away) and get the code read. What I may be in for? I'm hoping its something simple. I told her to check the gas cap just in case.
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My 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L V6 AWD failed to start a week ago. After towing to my neighborhood repair shop, it was diagnosed as a faulty ECM based on code P560 (System Voltage Problem). They replaced the ECM (along with relay) with a used one with the exact same part#. After that, the car was started and run OK but Check Engine Light stays on all the time. The codes displayed are:
P1529 TCU MIL Request Signal
P0501 VSS Range Performance
I was told that this is caused by the fact that each ECM is VIN/PIN locked. The replacing ECM was used in another car before and was locked with a different VIN thus cannot communicate with some components of the current car.
My questions are:
Can this used ECM be unlocked and relocked with a new VIN/PIN? If so, does it require the previous VIN/PIN to unlock? Most likely the previous VIN/PIN is no longer available.
Does this service require the presence of the car or can it be done with the ECM alone? Do keys need to be re-registered? The car starts fine currently.
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I have a 2009 Avalon that is displaying a Check Engine Light and a VSC light. Is it possible it is doing so because I have two different brand tires on the front hankook and the back Michelin?
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I just bought this car from the original owner. She didn't take that great of care of the car. First oil change was done at 8,000 miles for example. Basically if it was broken she would fix it, but didn't do much preventative maintenance.
I just replaced all 4 spark plugs and coils since one was misfiring and didn't want to have to go back in and replace one in another few months. Replaced the AC belt a few days ago since it was cracked and worn. All other belts are fine. I drove the car around for a few hours the next day and it ran great.
Today, the check engine light flashes and then stays on. The car is idling rough at stop lights and acceleration is poor. Previously, the light came on and it was the EVAP system. Not sure which component and I was told it isn't supposed to affect the way the car drives.
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I go in this week to recheck my nagging check engine light. Flashes after a warm start, then stays on. Been there once already for it, it has come on too after a cold start... Last time they said it was a very vague miss fire code.... It did shake a bit... On the plus I get to drive a nice new Elantra again.... On the down, I never want my car back after driving it ...
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MY 06 Avalon has acquired a check engine light that goes on and off sporadically..mechanic states it was a misfire cleared the codes but now it has come back and then turned itself off only to come back again. Car 80k miles..needs tuneup ?
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It came on yesterday and went out on it's own today then came back on later. The code is PO354. the manual says the "D" ignition coil primary is open or has a problem. I don't believe it because the engine runs fine. Opinions?
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Do the check engine lights when you put the switch in the start position or as I know if working properly. I have a 2008 toyota avalon XL,
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Took my 07 Avalon Touring to the dealer because of a check engine light. They replaced coil and plugs, but also told me unbalanced wheels had caused the computer to throw a code. As Click and Clack would say, this sounds bogus. I'm feeling no vibration and the wheels were balanced about 3 months ago.
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My check engine light came on in my 06 toyota avalon. i had the code read at pepboys and they said it was something like 0300 misfire. i took it a few days later to my personal mechanic and he said nothing popped up when he tested the code. i notice the car (engine) is running a little rough though. What is the firing pattern as i want to try and fix by putting new plugs and coils.
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My Avalon has 55,000 miles on it. when it is idling the motor seems to be very noisy. to me this isn't normal my service rep says there should be no problems if there is no check engine light on.
Should not be as noisy with such low mileage. dealers says if there is no problem and that is the way it is they will charge me for the diagnostic fee. seems like it's not right the way it sounds so what is everybody's opinion on this issue. Oil level is up and very good so just wondering if it could be very variable valve timing solenoid making noise.
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I try to do my own maintenance. I have a 2006 Avalon Limited. This has happened twice recently, using cruise it has kicked off and gives me the VSC light and the check engine light and cruise error, when running codes I get the following P0138 & P2195 both have to do with the O2 sensor on bank 1, and P1578 & P1201 which are brake malfunction. I have been searching the Internet for any information on what could be causing my issue with no luck. I have a 3000 mile trip and need to figure this out soon.
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I have a CEL on my 2007 Avalon so I decided to take it to Autozone to get a scan. Error code P0015 was returned. This code has to do with B Camshaft Position, Timing Over Retarded (Bank 1). I've done a little research and I've read that this could possibly from a dirty screen on the Oil Control Valve, the OCV itself, or the Cam Position Sensor. Before replacing parts, what I would like to do first is to check/clean the screen on the OCV. Secondly, I would like to swap the Cam Position Sensor to a different bank and see if the other bank throws an error. If the other bank throws an error, then I know the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. With this said, I am having trouble locating the OCV and CPS. Where the valve and sensor is located. A diagram would be useful.
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