Toyota - Avalon :: Brake Noise When Backing Out Of Driveway In The Morning
Feb 26, 2013
After having rear disc pads replaced, my 2003 Toyota Avalon makes a terrible noise backing out of the driveway in the morning. I think it must be rust or something--it never happens in ultra-dry weather. It is a very loud squeaking and moaning. It only happens backing up, and it goes away after a bit of driving. Normally I would not worry about what is likely a bit of surface rust, but this is INTENSE. Like, the neighbors across the street stare at us. Should I worry about this, or just live with it since the brakes perform fine after this initial period?
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape, and today I noticed that while backing out of my driveway (downhill) as I pressed the brake pedal it made this grinding noise, but when I got out of the car I looked through the tires and the rotors and pads were fine. I did not get a chance to check the inner side of the rotor or pad yet. What else could this noise be if it's not the brakes? It only makes this noise when I press the brake pedal which is why I thought it was the brakes.
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Our 2008 Rav4 (4 cylinder) has on more than one occasion come up with a loud clunking sound when backing up our steep (~ 20% grade) driveway. It feels like it has popped out of gear or even into a forward gear. The first time it happened (a couple of months ago) it was taken directly to the dealer who found nothing. It happened again today - on two attempts to back up the driveway. If the phenomenon correlates with anything, it's higher air temperatures and after a longish (> 30 minute) drive. Any clues?
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In the morning when I back down the driveway with slight braking, the brakes make a loud hollow squeaky sound in a tunnel. The rear brakes were changed about 2 months ago.
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I have a 2000 Ford Ranger that makes a whining/squealing noise when I back out of the driveway in the morning, but only on damp/humid days. It usually does it once and then never happens the rest of the day. It seems to come from the rear of the vehicle. I do have a lot of rust everywhere, so I'm thinking that moisture might be aggravating the rust somewhere. I got new drum brakes installed a year ago, so that shouldn't be it. I do notice that my parking brake sometimes sticks in the morning, so maybe this has something to do with it? Could it be the rear axle/differential? Not sure where to start on this one.
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I have 2004 Super Duty with a noise in the front end when I hit bumps or backing out or entering a driveway with a lip. I don't feel anything in the steering wheel but I feel it on the floor board with my feet? Where to begin?
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I readied my Prius and was backing out my driveway. The ICE started and was misfiring very badly, sounded like it was barely running, making all kinds of clatter.
I stopped, put the car in park, and the idle was very rough, sounded like it was trying to clear itself from being flooded. There were no warning lights or blinking check engine lights, so I drove off.
Heres where things get freaky. If I accelerated any more than 1/4 of the gas pedal, the car would buck and the ICE would shut off completely. Then when I let go of the gas, the ICE would start back up. If i feathered the gas lightly, the ICE would stay running. After the car warmed up, this behavior disappeared.
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2014 4Runner SR5, 4k miles... It is sporadic, but here in the Midwest the weather is frigid. Is it normal for brand new pads to squeal right when I pull out of my driveway? It goes away, but I never had this with any other vehicle.
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Brake pedal goes to floor with no resistance first time I start in am. Rest of day all normal. Started when cold weather came. Fluid ok, no leaks seen.
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So, until recently I had a 2000 Ford Focus but it was totaled in an accident not long ago and is long gone now. I was given a 1985 Toyota Tercel Wagon with about 194,000 mi by a family member. However, it has always had a problem whereby the brake pedal goes to the floor now and then and especially when it is cold in the morning. So, I took the car to a mechanic (hwy 64 auto, Raleigh, NC) and they replaced the Master Cylinder yesterday and bled the brake lines through the master cylinder.
The mechanic told me that the bleeder valves were too old and corroded to try to bleed them at each wheel and that they might break and then the caliper(s) would then have to replaced. Anyway, long story short, the brakes are WORSE after he changed the master cylinder and bled the lines from the master cylinder. Now EVERY time you first press the brake the pedal goes down then immediately you can "pump" them back up so either air in the lines or still a leak somewhere in the braking system. I do not want to spend anymore money (or at least very little money) on this car as too much has already been spent on other things before I got it and also after I got it.
Did the mechanic screw up or am I looking at a problem you have with some old cars where you start replacing parts in the brake system and then still have the problem or a new problem and then you wind up spending $800 replacing old crappy, worn out parts. What should I do? Did the mechanic screw it up or is it just time to send this old car to the scrap pile and crusher? Remember, I don't want to keep pouring money into this thing. I've already spent some money on it with other stuff lately.
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After returning from about a 5 hr roadtrip, I backed my snowmobile trailer up my steep driveway in 4wd and the truck did not want to move after that. The truck is an '05 SCREW 4X4 5.4L with about 110,000 miles on it. Trailer is probably around 1,000 lbs with the snowmobile on it.
The driveway is steep and short. That combined with the 90 degree turn to get in and some uneven terrain and part the path onto slippery frozen grass makes for a bit of a rodeo trip backwards up the driveway with a trailer.
Anyway, after getting the trailer up into it's place, I unhooked it, switched back to 2wd, disengaged the parking brake, and put it into drive. The truck didn't roll which was weird as it's now in drive pointed down hill. With about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle, it crept forward. Again, this is down hill. I got out walked around the truck (make sure I didn't forget to unhook anything etc) and tried again. Same thing.
Once I made it to the fairly level street, the truck would still only move, barely, with about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle. Now it was like some of the wheels were free but at least one had to break traction with the pavement to allow the truck to move forward. So with constant pressure on the accelerator it would chirp one or more of the wheels a bit at a time as it crept forward. Acted like it was in some sort of imaginary tug of war. After about 40' of driving it worked itself out. I've driven about 10 miles since and seems just fine.
I'm concerned because I plan to do this frequently with this trailer and in the summer frequently with a boat weighing about 3,500 lbs although shouldn't need 4wd in the summer.
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I have had literally no issues with my 2004 F250 Super Duty. Went out and started the truck like every other time for the past 13 years. Started backing out of the driveway and burped the throttle and it just quit??
I put back into park and it rolled over for about a minute and finally caught. When i put it back into gear i had zero throttle response. I have a NOx sensor fault code and and EGR fault code. I replaced the FICM 2 years ago.
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Our brakes sends out a loud screech but only while it's backing up. (78k miles)
Is it time to change the pads?
Should we service the brakes at the dealership or private auto shop?
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So when driving my tuck the steering on it would sorta lock up like it wanted to push the truck to one side then it would free up and the steering would be real loose it just felt like it had no power steering to one side it's not the same side each time and it pulses when I'm at a stop if I move the the tires Erving the motor doesn't seem to work so far I have replaced ball joints and all tie rods they needed done anyways it would still do it got an alignment done last week and it almost seems worse now could just be coincidence.
I'm thinking power steering pump but when the steering locks up to one side I'm also wondering if it's the steering box it's kinda hard to explain it what's going on and there is no popping noise or anything when the steering frees up. It's kinda scary on the freeway when I go around a corner the steering gets real loose and wonders back and forth not all the time but quit a bit but when going strait it will feel like it wants to pull to one side then the steering will loosen up again. The steering will wine only first thing in the morning when I pull out of the driveway then it's fine
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I have a clicking/banging noise when I hit the brake while I am backing up. It only does it when the brakes are cool. I tried bringing it in to the dealership, with the service tech with me, no matter what I do drive forward and back hitting the brakes hard it won't do it. But as soon as the brake cools off and try backup from a drive way you can hear it and its annoying as hell. I thought it was ball joint went bad but they assure me it wasn't the ball joint.
The service tech said the brake pad expands when it heats up. Okay fine, but how come only my front left does it. I was thinking some spacer or clips fell off...
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Our 2010 Toyota Camry makes a squealing noise as we back out of our garage.Does this mean we new rear brakes?
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I had 2 brake related issues. First was a honking noise when pressing/releasing the brake pedal (covered by T-SB-0363-10, attached below). Second was rear brake squeaks, particularly when backing up (T-SB-0102-11, attached below). I had the squeak issue repaired under a previous TSB a few years ago, but the noise came back after a while, and the updated TSB includes replacing the pads and other parts.
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The brake lights come on in the rear after i park the car. it appears the brake pedal is not springing back for enough to disengage the brake lights. It does not do this all the time, but seems to have start doing this at night when it gets colder. I can look outside and see my brake lights on, then go off, then come back on. It has made the battery go dead twice in the last week. is this a easy fix or something more complicated. this has nothing to do with parking brake, i normally do engage parking brake since i park on a flat surface road in front of my home.
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What is this metal on metal noise...you hear it the best around the 7-12 second mark...it is especially loud on cold start in the morning when you put the car in "drive" but don't move the car forward. It also is prevalent on hot days when you park the car outside and just start the car. The sound gets louder when you turn on the a/c during the hot day.
2010 2011 lexus engine noise metal noise - YouTube...
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When accelerating there is a noise that seems to come from the exhaust (can not be duplicated not in gear). This noise got louder recently, and then the noise stopped. When the noise stopped, the check engine light illuminated as well as the VCS and VCS off lights. Is there a common cause for this and/or trouble shooting steps that should be followed?
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Here's what happens to my car: If its in park you can floor the throttle and its smooth and quiet for the most part. Same with reverse. I can put it in reverse, back up hard and it's smooth. When i put it in drive, stationary, it sounds rough. When I'm taking off from a stop it sounds rough until I'm at a good cruising speed at which point it seems smooth, until stopped again … … The noise is rough in both drive and reverse. Note: this stops for about a day after hoisting the rear end. Also, when going down the highway, the throttle "pauses " for a moment, then resumes speed about every 5 minutes ...
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