Toyota - Avalon :: 40,000 Mile Checkup - Pipe Melted Onto Manifold And Could Not Be Removed
Jun 10, 2002
My mom took her 2000 Avalon in for 40,000 mile checkup and was told a pipe had melted onto the manifold and could not be removed. The entire manifold had to be replaced in order to pass GA emission testing. Two different kinds of metal were used in the original construction of the car and when the car was heated, the melting occurred. My parents are expected to replace at their own cost. Any other reports of similar instances and if so, how was it handled? Seems like Toyota should be responsible, doesn't it?
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I have an 01 Ford ranger with a 3.0 six cylinder. The passenger side exhaust manifold got so hot it melted the housing around the a/c evaporator. The local dealer said both converters need changing for a mere $2400. Took it to a local muffler shop where did a test and said they were ok. But it still doesn't want to run and the muffler guy unhooked the exhaust from the manifold and it still wouldn't run so he said. And to me out looks like 5 converters not just two.
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Wife took truck out and turned around after going less then a mile, saying it was running very bad. We got this truck about two months ago at a state vehicle auction. It was a state used truck, 145,000 miles, 05 Ford F350, ext cab and 8' bed. Anyway at first I thought it was valve tap until research said an exhaust manifold. With a fog machine in rear exhaust pipe we confirmed it was leaking and replaced the exhaust manifold. Figured it was probably a good time to replace spark plugs too. Took truck for a ride and she still buck and farted.
Got a code machine and got P0171 and P0174. Couldn't find a vacuum leak, but your could hear the air being sucked in. went to local parts store, guys couldn't find leak, but they said truck sounded like a steam machine. today I made a homemade smoke machine and smoke came from air intake, figured the gaskets were bad. The pictures show what I saw when I took the gaskets off. The port that has melted is the same port were the exhaust manifold was leaking from. Am in deep "doo-doo". What caused this?
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So I did the seafoam trick and I came to the conculsion that my exhaust leak is coming from either the manifold or the flex pipe. There was no smoke coming from under the car only a mist of smoking coming up from the back of the engine, probably by the manifold or the flex pipe. I do not see any visible cracking per say. I have attached a picture of the end of the flex pipe and it almost looks like someone may have tried to seal it before? I don't know if that is normal or not as seen in the picture.
2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 ...
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I undertook this maintenance as a preventive measure, and to see if I could bump up the gas mileage a bit. After reassembly, when I try to start it up, the engine runs for 1-2 seconds, and stops, and I get a "Check Hybrid System" error. The engine will not restart. I'm trying to figure out where I screwed things up. Right now I might have to get it towed to a shop.
I bought the Prius used last month, and it's at 151K miles. I've driven it about 800 miles since I've owned it. It had been running perfectly fine, with no check engine lights or symptoms. The scheduled maintenance items were all caught up. I had spark plugs changed, engine coolant changed, transaxle fluid changed at the famous Luscious Garage several week ago, and they said the car was in good shape. They actually recommended NOT cleaning the EGR pipe/manifold/throttle body or replacing the PCV valve if there were no symptoms or check engine lights. They said not to worry about it until symptoms occur - probably to save money. Maybe I should have listened to them, but I liked the ideal of things running perfectly.
I used information from the "missing under light throttle" and other intake manifold cleaning threads and a couple pdfs on throttle body removal and intake manifold removal from the 2010 Toyota Prius Repair Manual that Mendel Leisk had attached to another thread. I generally followed the repair manual, except for not disconnecting stuff that didn't have to be disconnected, like the coolant hoses on the throttle body. That is to say, with the manual pdfs in front of me, I'm pretty sure I didn't forget to reconnect any connectors or hoses when reassembling.
A moderate amount of dry, sooty carbon material was in the EGR pipe. I cleaned that out. The port leading to the EGR valve assembly was also filled with that dry soot, and I cleaned that out with a pipe cleaner, used dry, since I didn't want to create a sticky clog in the valve. I stuck a vacuum cleaner to that port afterwards, in case I had pushed soot back towards the valve with the pipe cleaner.
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So I had recently developed a leak in the up pipes behind the collector. Big surprise, right?
Well, a 6-point socket was spinning on the collector bolts (probably from rust) so I decided to cut the manifold to up pipe bolts. Got the up pipes off/out. Well after and <acronym title="Manifold Absolute Pressure">MAP</acronym> gas torch, I can't punch ANY of the bolts out.
There is little to no room to get to the bolts. (I have the down pipe removed.) At this point I'll try a few more doses of hot wrench and PB Blaster, but if I have to do the manifolds I'll just pull the engine, since chances are there will be at least one stuck bolt there, too. I really don't want to go that, but eventually I'll need to install my new oil pan anyway.
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On the manifold there is a metal/steel pipe that the heater hose hooks to. That pipe is leaking anitifreeze. It has a small hole in it. Is this pipe replaceable or is it part of the manifold.
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I had a fuel starvation problem because Ford painted the inside of the fuel tank and the paint was coming off and clogging the filters and because I foolishly drove it I now have white smoke spewing out of the tail pipe and an engine miss.
I also explained that I thought that the white smoke did not smell sweet like antifreeze, but rather like diesel. (Hoping that a head gasket replacement is not required.)
I am in the middle of doing the Hutch Mod with frame-mounted Racor PS120-2 jar-type screen pre-pump filter and shortening my previous Harpoon Mod and paint stripping and powerwashing the inside of my tank. Next I plan to move on toward the engine issue.
This evening I was under the van with a flashlight and I noticed that there was a black liquid of some sort at the driver's side exhaust manifold where it joins the up-pipe. At first I was afraid to touch it fearing that it would be carbon-sooted water, but it felt and tasted like carbon-sooted diesel.
And since I haven't started the engine in two weeks and it has been routinely near or over 100F in Sacramento, water would have likely evaporated days ago.
Does it make sense if the fuel starvation problem caused an injector nozzle or its cup to crack or to stick open or to otherwise spew unburnt fuel into the exhaust manifold which would cause the white smoke? Obviously, the unburnt fuel must get from the affected cylinder(s) to the tail pipe somehow, which likely means out the exhaust valve, through the exhaust manifold to the up-pipe and through the turbo to the exhaust pipe and finally to the tail pipe.
See pictures at my CP. I can't figure out how to attach them or put them inline here because it still says I can't do attachments.
What is my next move? Remove the driver's side valve cover? If so, what should I look for, etc.?
2002 E350 extended body van 7.3 diesel auto trans converted to 4x4 (bought new)
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I just finished installing a new turbo (shaft play and lots of oil in the compressor side), RR up-pipes, and T500 (250k and once had a very long crank to get the ICP up to start).
Anyway, except for another exhaust leak at the pass side up-pipe to manifold, it seemed to run okay but with lots of white smoke. I only have about 50 miles after the install, when it suddenly starting surging and made a lot of loud knocking noises. This then went away and came back again rather quickly. I was close to home, so I made back under power. I also received the two codes listed. My IPR is original, but two summers ago I installed the IPR re-seal kit. Everything on the IPR looked good when it came off for the T500.
After reading around, I saw that low fuel pressure / air in fuel can cause problems. I connected a pressure gauge to the pre-filter port on the filter housing, and got 40psi at idle. I then took a diesel shower and blew out the fuel line into the tank. After re-connecting it, the fuel pressure stayed the same but the engines idles much better, but still has blue smoke. It's the original fuel pump (to me anyway) and original fuel line connections.
I have about 3/4 tank, and no place to put it, so I'd need to run it out for the Hutch mod, or least to get in there and inspect. Would eliminating the Ford connections at the pump be worthwhile for now, and is 40psi at idle adequate? Wondering if it's time for a fuel pump?
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I drive a mile to and from work. Just as I pull in to park the engine dies. It will crank but won't catch. I let sit overnight and the next day it starts ands gets me to just as i am parking at home and dies. What is wrong with my truck? I was thinking clogged fuel filter. Let's a little fuel through the line at night which is used up on the trip. When line empty car dies. Then slowly fills line again over night.
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I have a 2011 F350 CC long box 4x4, with a 6.2, 93,000 km on it. I periodically get a P0420. I clear it and sometimes it comes back in 10 or 20 KM and sometimes it comes back in a couple hundred km. Been doing this for about 800 KM.
Yesterday I got an exaust leak at the joint where the exaust manifold meets the pipe beside the engine. Checked close, bolts appear intact, leak is on the outboard side blowing towards the frame. Looks like a gasket or donut seal failed.
I am wondering if the catalytic converter was plugged or restrictive, would this cause the P0420 and could back pressure from a restricted catalyitic converter cause the gasket to blow?
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Obviously I'll have the oil changed, but Toyota recommends all this other stuff at 30k and my local dealer wants about 250$ for it. It looks like the same stuff they do with my regular oil changes but now want 250$ to do it. Seems like somewhat of a rip off.
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In january I took my 2001 Toyota corolla to the mechanic (that had replaced the engine 5 years ago) because it was using oil and gas mileage was very poor. He gave the car and tune up and right afterward I noticed the car hesitated for just a second within the first mile of driving. After the hesitation it had full power.
Then the check engine light came on with a code for O2 sensor; I had that part replaced about 2-3 years ago. So that was replaced. The next day I was driving on the highway when I heard a pop and lights came on everywhere. The car ran, but when I stopped, it was smoking and wouldn't start. AAA towed it and said the water pump broke and took the serpentine belt with it, and I had it repaired there.
Car continued to to the "hesitation" thing, but I learned to live with it, until 4 weeks later it lost power and wouldn't go more than 5 miles an hour. Very dangerous! Also the check engine light came on - O2 sensor again. The original mechanic towed it back to his shop, has had it over a month. Say sometimes it runs fine and sometimes it really hesitates. My son took the plugs out and said they didn't look new and replaced them with best quality new plugs (mechanic said the plugs looked worn due to problems reported).
He's been a mechanic his whole career and still can't find out the problem. He checked the MAF and said it's fine. I can't afford to put more money into it, but it's worth nothing but junk value now after putting over $1000 into it. I didn't have these issues before I took it to him in January. He has a good reputation, but I don't know what gives.
Is this all a coincidence that it happened at once? What could have happened?
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I have a 1994 4 cyl Toyota Camry LE. For the last couple of years, when I parked the car after driving it and removed the key from the ignition, the air conditioning would continue to operate normally and blow cold air through the vents, and all of the other electrics would all operate for about 5 seconds, then shut down normally. Again, this was after driving the car, engine off, with the key removed and the ignition switch in the proper "off" position. I didn't think much of it at the time.
Recently, the problem has advanced to something worse. Now, when I turn off and remove the key, all electrical components remain on indefinitely (ie radio, air conditioning, wipers work, etc... )
I can physically power down each of the individual components using it's respective switch, but there is still accessory power on the vehicle. Basically, with the key removed, the vehicle thinks it is in accessory mode. All the dash lights are illuminated, like right before you start the vehicle. The only way to completely remove all electrical from the vehicle is to physically disconnect the battery.
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My toyota camry 2003 shakes,vibrating while driving in the front, right side especially, It shakes most at a certain low speeds. The cars is always shaking when it reaches 60mile range upward. what could be the problem??
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The oil was changed by a highly reputable shop 2 days ago, (45 miles ago). My wife noticed today that the "Low Oil Pressure" red message flashed 3 times in the last 5 miles of her 10 mile trip (45-50 mph). She stopped the car and called me. I arrived at the parked Prius and saw no oil on the dipstick. I poured a quart of synthetic in and looked under the car to see it pouring out. My finger discovered that there was No Oil Plug. I called the shop and they sent a tow truck, put a new oil plug in, refilled the oil and claim no damage since "the Prius shuts off the gas engine when low oil pressure is sensed". Looking for information about this "shut off feature?" What should I ask from the shop? What should be tested & checked for? How do you test for damage to the bearings? How about a compression test? The car has 100K miles.
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I park in a parking garage for work. A rusted pipe leaked on to my car hood for a while apparently and now my hood is rusted. I took it to a body shop down the street and the serviceman said I needed to repaint and reseal the hood and front bumper.
I went to my garage ownership and complained and they said they will take care of it and gave me a number to call. The repairman made it sound like he wants to just "buff it out".
I'm not a car expert by any means. Does this seem like a "cheap" fix and should I argue more with my garage?
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I recently noticed a lot of smoke coming out of exhaust pipe. Checkout video : [URL] .....
Video was taken after I drove for about 40mins. Then parked (engine still running). Then immediately recorded the video. I also noticed smoke while I'm driving too. I checked yesterday and saw some water (not a lot, just drops) dripping down the pipe.
Weather is a bit cold these days. Here in WA, its usually in the range of 35-40 degree. Is that normal?
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MY toyota camry is smoking white smoke from my tail pipe after I changed the oil in it which it had not been changed in a very long time and now a couple plugs are fouling out too.. what this could be...
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2003 Camry with 141,000 miles. Last 3 months when I start it in the morning, I can see white/gray smoke coming from exhaust for about 20 seconds, then it ends. Car is running no differently ... I'm wondering if it's a PVC or there is an issues with transmission or antifreeze getting into engine via some sort of gasket leak.
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The guy at the muffler place says I have a cracked exhaust manifold. He also says he can't get the parts after holiday. I'm supposed to drive, with my family for holidays. The muffler guy says that should be fine - highway driving will generate enough airflow to keep us from all dying of CO asphyxiation.
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