Toyota - Avalon :: 2002 - Cranks But Won't Start Unless Press Gas Pedal
Mar 19, 2011
I have a 2002 avalon XLS. In the morning the car cranks but wont start unless I press the gas pedal. After that everything was fine. But recently the problem is getting worse. The car became harder to start although it will start eventually. I have changed the Mass air flow sensor, but did not solve the problem.
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For the last two years we have been having this problem off and on. The car typically will not start in the morning but 8 hours later it will start right up with no hesitation. The engine always cranks but it will not start. Every time we have the vehicle towed to a mechanic's shop either the car starts as soon as the towing company drops off the car or first thing in the morning when they go to start looking at it. When the vehicle does start there is absolutely no hesitation and no decrease in the performance. The vehicle has never stalled on me, and I have tried pumping the gas and putting the vehicle in neutral but have been unsuccessful in figuring out this problem. The check engine light does not come on and there aren't any codes saved in the memory.
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I have a Toyota Corolla 2010 LE. When I'm driving, no matter how fast I drive, I feel a vibration sound. When I press brake pedal, it's worse than driving. I recently replaced front rotors and brake pads. I also replaced whole tires a month ago.
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Car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
When going at the desired speed (say 40mph) and there is lots of coasting room, I just let go off the accelerator and the car basically coasts. The engine RPM drops from 1600-1800 down to 900-1000 and it actually can coast a long way. Sometimes, I need to go faster (if I'm initially started at a slower speed) and when I press the gas pedal slightly, the tachometer shows the engine rpm jumps from the coasting 900-1000 to 1600-1800.
Is the tachometer (add on by ScanGuage) reporting it correctly? Is this a bad form of acceleration for the engine?
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I know that VW's are known for funky problems. Sometimes when it has recently rained heavily, the brakes will make a crunching sound when I press the pedal down, and there is also increased pressure, as if there is water stuck somewhere. It will drive fine for a few minutes and then will start shuddering, spewing exhaust, and nearly stalling. The engine light will often flash, and for this reason I brought it into my mechanic who is a VW specialist. It was first diagnosed as a faulty engine coil, and that was replaced. The problem came back repeatedly and he said I would have to wait until it "got worse" for him to figure it out. I've been riding it out since then, and once I get to my destination and the car sits for a little bit (usually 4+ hours), it runs fine again. The rainy season has started so I'm a little worried about this happening on a regular basis. This has never happened in dry weather.
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I have a 1999 Grand Am 3.4L engine that has 227,000 miles on it. For quite a while now I've needed to press the gas pedal slightly in order for the car to start. Once it's started it idles fine. The car isn't throwing any codes and I've replaced quite a few things (not necessarily due to this...). Here's a list of what's new:
1) Camshaft Position Sensor
2) Plugs & Plug Wires
3) Mass Air Flow Sensor
4) PCV Hose
5) Fuel Filter
I've read about the Idle Air Control sensor, but I figured if there was something wrong with this it would throw a code and I'd have a dummy light on the dash (which there are none). What are some things I can look for to try to troubleshoot this issue?
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I have 2011 SE, it won't start at all. The car won't start all thou all electrical are working (radio, NAV, Dashboard) but when trying to press the break pedal is hard as a rock. Dashboard computer at times tells me to press the break pedal - but it wont start, it actually turns off when i press the break and hit the start button. It happen twice before was able to start it within couple minutes.
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Is there anyway to disable this annoying "press brake pedal to start" on the 2010 with Vag Com or some other magic tricks? I searched and found a thread but no solution if there is any.
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2005 Starts fine after first start. Ficm voltage 47 to 48 on Edge insight, stc replaced...
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The brake lights come on in the rear after i park the car. it appears the brake pedal is not springing back for enough to disengage the brake lights. It does not do this all the time, but seems to have start doing this at night when it gets colder. I can look outside and see my brake lights on, then go off, then come back on. It has made the battery go dead twice in the last week. is this a easy fix or something more complicated. this has nothing to do with parking brake, i normally do engage parking brake since i park on a flat surface road in front of my home.
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I have a 2010 Prius Hybrid and lately, on an intermittent basis, I will press the brake pedal and push the start button and the dashboard lights up as normal but when I go to put it in gear nothing happens. The last time it happened the fan was running and I couldn't turn it off. It's like the car is all set to go but all the interior controls don't function. I then shut it off and restart it and everything works.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Prius. When I press the brake pedal and press the start button the engine does not start or the wheels are not powered by the battery. It gives me the following errors:
The indicator in the Start button lights in Amber Color.
0 kmph mark is not activated in the dash board pannel.
When I shift the gears it only shifts to neutral ("N") gear.
I cant move the car forward or backward. An error message is displayed in the MFD in Japanese language. It is in Japanese and I cant read the error message.
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Malibu no start issue. It cranks, but will not start until she presses the gas pedal to floor. When it does start, it is a very low Idle but smooth. as soon as she lifts the gas, the car dies. Kinda like ran out of gas.
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My friend's 2001 toyota RAV 4 battery went totaly flat and was taken to an electrician, he changed the battery but the car won't start, it cranks very as normal but no start, the horn blows quit strongly and the Battery is a new one (BOSCH) not rebulit, and the security light blinks. The thing is that the car started well before the battery went flat, so I am very sure it is not the starter or the ignition switch, that security indicator was not blinking before the battery change.
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A couple months back my avalon started refusing to start, lights would come on with the key, but when i turned it, nothing but a click. after a few tries it would eventually start and run, usually for the day without issue again. After a while it got worse, and I had the battery tested. It was dead. So i replaced it. The car would still click the first couple times but start more readily then it had previously. Fast forward 2 weeks. I go to start my car, it does its clicking thing, then nothing. The whole car just dies. no lights, no clock, nothing. I gave it a minute and it came back on with dimmed lights and the antitheft system (which goes off if the battery is disconnected) goes off.
since then, i have successfully started the car 2x, but after each shut off, the clicking and no start issue returns. The battery cables are free of corrosion and its a brand new battery. I have seen issues with the starters and alternators on these cars on forums before, however with mine intermittently working, its slightly different. at least to my limited mechanical knowledge.
I have seen starter rebuild kits for fairly cheap online and alternator replacement options that look to be fairly easy with the tools that i have access to.
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I had several incidents where the car would not start & the battery was dead after the car sat a few days. After my shop checked & could not find a specific cause we ended in replacing the the battery & the clamps that held it. The car was fine for a month and then it went dead again after being left unused for 4 days. I wondered if my shop had the proper equipment to find problem. The vehicle has 175,000 miles on it.
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My '78 Corolla SR5 with 2TC engine, starts sometimes, and sometimes not. If she has rested in the carport for a few days, she cranks right over and goes like blazes. After a twenty-mile run, if I shut her off, she won't start again. Not a sound not a click nothing. But if I leave her alone for a couple days, she cranks right over. I need to take the old girl through emissions pretty soon. I don't want her to go into a coma in the emissions bay. Her mechanics can find nothing wrong.
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I have a 1996 Toyota corolla. it has been working fine until recently. I had problem starting the car intermittently. When I turned the key, it sounds like it cranks but the car would not start. If I tried it again after a minute or two, it would start again. It happens twice to me already so far. It has been around 4000 miles since my last oil change. And my engine oil has been leaking slowly for years (probably due to bad gasket) and I checked regularly and made sure the Engine oil is filled up to Full level. I haven't brought it to a mechanics yet but I would like to know what could be the issue.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon with 185000 miles. I went to start it this morning. It acted like it was going to start easily as usual.Then it acted like the electrical system went out. There were a few clicks when trying to start and then nothing.No electrical power at all. In what I guess was less than 30 seconds the electric power came back and I was able to start the car.The battery is new.I know the power was totally interrupted because I lost my presets on the radio station and the dash lights were off.I am thinking that something shorted out and then it reset. Can that happen?I very gingerly use the ignition switch now when starting the car. I turn it on, then only twist very gently.I am a little afraid that it is going to die on me again.
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I have a 1998 Toyota Avalon with 125K that has a new battery, new battery terminals, and new cables. However, at random times it will not start when you turn the key. You turn the key...all the lights come on but nothing. It does not turn over, make any noises nothing. If you continually turn key off/on it starts most of the time. On the occasion it does not start after a few off/on turns it jump starts easily. This occurs about 2-3 times a week. What could be happening? Could it have anything to do with the security system?
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The car cranks but doesn't start. I checked the fuel pump fuse & its OK. I sprayed carb cleaner in the intake & it started for about 2 seconds. What some of the possible causes?
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