Toyota - Avalon :: 1995 - Harsh Trans Shift / CEL Blinks Indicating Trans Solenoid Is Defective
Sep 29, 2011
I have 1995 Toyota Avalon w/173K miles. It’s in good shape mechanically and cosmetically. My 16 yr old daughter is the primary driver. I have extensive service records and have replaced the springs/struts, o2 sensors, and a few other bits. My question is related to hard shifts and a check engine light. During the summer the trans shifts normally. In the fall & winter, when temps dip below 50 degrees, the trans shifts harshly and the check engine light blinks indicating a trans solenoid is defective. The trans fluid has been flushed twice, most recently in Oct 2008 at the Toyota dealership. My theory is the techs filled the trans with a heavier weight fluid than is necessary and that is triggering the codes.
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Is there an easy way to do this...???
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I have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
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I have a 2004 F250 Torqshift trans, 155,000 miles. It has had a slight hesitation when trans is engaged for about 4 years, not a problem the dealer has no fix they said.
Now today for the first time I had a tow haul light come on while driving on the freeway. It would not go into overdrive and the light keep blinking. Later in the day, I let it cool down and it drove fine to the store about 2 miles. When I got in to drive home it had tow haul light go blinking and check engine light came on this time.
I hooked up my code reader and it's giving codes: P0720, P0751 and P0766.
Should I take it to the Ford dealer, a Transmission shop or have a friend who worked at Ford Dealer do the Work? I see that some people have changed out the TFT sensor and corrected the problem. While the pan is down should I just have all the shift solenoid sensors changed?
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If I press the gas a little hard in drive, my tires squeal but if I'm in reverse I can feel a slipping in the trans. If I try to back a trailer up an inclined driveway, it won't go, the trans slips. I have no crud in the pan. I've replaced the reverse boost valve. I installed a Trans-Go kit which is suppose to eliminate the reverse slip but it hasn't worked. Everything else works just fine and my fluid is red. I have engine braking in 2nd and 1st. The van backs up fine, it just does this in reverse under load.
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Our 95 TS 3.8 runs hot. I dislike the 195 Thermostat, but winter is coming. Temps can soar to 230 on gauge, with no air.(Now I remember why I had a 180degree thermostat).
I recently replaced a rebuilt delco starter that was about a year old.(faulty solenoid). I cannot recall if the Slow crank problem was there prior. When 230 degrees, intermittently I get a slow crank with dimming of dashboard lights, but bright headlights.
1. I know that the temps are supposed to swing a lot with this vehicle, but 75 degree days, 230 degrees when in heavy traffic is pushing it.(gauge). Is this normal for 195 thermostat?
2. Possible bad windings on new rebuilt starter? Armature drawing excessive amps when hot? Battery cables look okay, but original.
3. Considering a NEW starter and a heat reflector wrap for starter. New battery cables-thicker cable if possible(used welding cable for my old 421S.D.
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I just bought a used 95 pontiac trans am. It has 121,000 miles on it, 6-speed manual, 5.7L engine, all stock. Well i bought it with oil leaks and they turned out to be worse than i thought so i had to reseal pretty much the whole front of the engine from the o-ring seal to the camshaft seal, etc. That took care of the oil leaks. Well then it started to overheat so i replaced the water pump. Problems solved. Then a spark plug came loose. No prob. Well 24 hours after getting it out of the shop from the resealing i break down.
Now they say i need a new wire harness. No prob. So now I've put $2,000 into the car (that's including new tires). SO ONCE AGAIN WITHIN 24 HOURS OF LEAVING THE SHOP i break down again. So I take it to a different shop again to get a diagnostic. They won't be able to tell me anything until monday but they put on a new air intake boot (without my permission because mine was taped to secure it better and i knew it wasn't leaking air) and it cut off on them again in the shop (so I'm not paying for the boot). When i break down it happens unexpectedly just like I've run out of gas. Well once there was almost like a split second of a lurch but other than that its always been a smooth break down. No bad sounds or anything. And the motor sounds great and the car runs really well until it just stops... Then if i let it sit for a little while it will start back up and go for a little then stop again. No one can really tell me whats wrong with it.
My fuel pump seems to be fine. alternator seems fine (my lights don't dim or anything). Distributor maybe? Or could it be the fuel filter? And isn't there something i can do about the shop? Wouldn't a prudent shop at least run the computer on the car? I don't think they did because at the shop where it is now they said that 6 codes popped up on it. So they want to erase them all and run the car and see which ones come back up. So can't i take the other shop to court for neglect in their work? I mean breaking down TWICE WITHIN 24 hours of leaving them. And then the rest of the afternoon they wouldn't even pick up the phone...
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I have a 95 Lumina APV 3.8 and have vibration coming from the puller fan (passenger side front of radiator). Inspection shows fan and motor good, the rubber mounting grommets are hard as nails.
Is there a secret source for these parts?
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I have a 95 f150 5.0 with a 4r70w Trans. What to check now no overdrive Trans shifts and drives great but no od the od off light on shifter is lit up and just never goes into overdrive solenoids have been replaced and new shift lever and button where do I go from here is not throwing any codes...
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So, I have a 2004 Toyota Matrix with about 104K miles on it, regular oil service and general maintenance. A few weeks back, my check engine light came on, took it in for diagnosis. The code was for the TCC, indicating a recent failure to shift properly. I've noticed no unusual behavior before or since the light came on, but I'm told that this is an indication of a failing transmission. My local transmission repair shop took it for a drive and said that this was probably the case as well. Estimates for a rebuild run in the 2200-2400 range. That said, I've also seen that it could be that I just need new transmission fluid. I had the fluid replaced, again, no noticeable shifting problems or unusual car behavior.
I'm wondering if
a) I should just drive and maintain the car as usual and if the light returns, then consider a rebuild or
b) begin to make preparations to get rid of the vehicle.
Bluebook estimates this in the 3-3500 range, so I'd assume it's sale value would be quite a bit less (perhaps less than the cost of a rebuild) for obvious reasons.
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My 1995 TS with 3.8 just quit driving down the road, would not restart. had to be towed home.
Fuel pressure just meets specs at 41 PSI engine off ( Gm says 41 to 47), but has been that way for some time. Put Actron scan tool on, got a code 361, EST not toggling. GM has no code 361, but based on past experience, this has usually pointed to a defective ignition module, and I thought that was that. While testing, scan tool kept losing communications and having to be reset.
Finally I unplugged power source of tool, and engine immediately quit and would not restart. Resetting scan tool would allow engine to restart, albeit very rough. Doing a wiggle test of engine wiring harness makes no change.
Crank sensor was replaced, about 12 years ago, so it not the trouble prone OEM; cam sensor about 10 years ago by a garage who was unsuccessful in solving a driveability issue.
Issue here is why would scan tool affect engine operation?
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'06 Camry base 4 cylinder. How do you shift auto trans into "L"?
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I'm not real sure what just happened this morning but my '95 Areostar stopped moving. While in gear there is a loud noise from trans area and the axles are no longer connected to the transmission. I think the trouble is in the electronic AWD portion. I thought at first the driveshaft fell off it was that loud. Where do I start tearing into it?
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is it the clutch or the shifter or something else? I did have to replace the 2 shifter cables about 18 months ago as they broke, but lately, it is having a very hard time going into gear, especially 1st gear when stopped. It's so bad my wife won't drive it any more. We love our 35mpg Saturn and want to keep it running well.
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I replaced the old auto trans that was slipping in my 2000 golf with a same year auto trans from a beetle. The beetle had 115k miles and the PO toasted the 1.8t. I replaced the TCM also and when I finished the install I took it out for a drive this afternoon and when I shift it into drive it starts out in 3rd. It will manually shift through the gears but it will not shift from 3rd to 4th. Could I have left something unhooked? Is this a solenoid issue?
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My 1985 BMW 635, standard transmission suddenly developed shifting problem. It will not shift into 1st, 3rd or 5th gear. It will shift into reverse,2nd and 4th gear. The car is not driven on any frequent schedule, infrequently. I can't remember the last time the transmission oil was changed.There has not been any mechanical distress,grinding of gears,etc. you just cant engage those gears. They all are moving the shifter from neutral to a up position. Is it possible that sludge could be blocking the movement of the synchronize r?
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I bought a 2004 heritage V6 Transmission was bad my father in law rebuilt it (he is a retired Ford Transmission guy) in drive it will not shift out of low if you take off in 2nd it will shift out of low on a rare occasion the OD light on the shifter will start blinking and it will shift fine?
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I have been looking for some information on 2004 Camry SE 4 cylinder. Last week it stopped shifting into OD. but it shifts good through first, second and third.... then it at 65MPH. I am tacking 3.5 Hundred RPM. I have a OBDii code of P0766, Solenoid. But which one.
There are three solenoids in the trans. (I have changed the filter and fluids about 3000 miles ago ) so now I believe one of the solenoids is bad. But I cant find out which one.
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A couple weeks back my 99 yukon died after hitting a large bump, found that the IGN A fuse was blown and kept blowing new fuses so I started digging and I found a slightly bare wire from an old remote start install that was touching the steel dash, problem solved I think. A few days go by and the ABS starts cycling about every 10 or so brakes, which is wierd, then ABS light comes on speedo goes to zero and trans wont shift, stays in 1st gear but every now and then speedo starts working trans shifts and you can drive but then speedo drops and wham feels like nuetral but really its back to first gear only if you rev it high enough, then the speedo starts on off on off on off gears work then dont then do and so on. What the heck is going on ?
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I've a 1998 Kia Sephia with AT. It was hit by a tree when Irene hit and was sitting in my driveway for a month while I did some minor body repairs. Now I cant shift it out of Park! I took the console off to look at the shifter. The interlocks work (shifter button and break) but the cable that goes to the shift lever on the trans wont budge.
Is their something on the transmission that would prevent it from shifting? Or is the transmission itself frozen? Would changing AT fluid or an additive? The car is parked right in front of my garage (nose in), so I cant budge it or tow it!
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99 grand prix gt. 4t65e trans. 170k miles. way above avg for life expectancy. 1-2 shift is ok. Will not shift into 3rd. If you keep increasing vehicle speed to about 45 or so, it will shift into 3rd and than immediately into 4th. 45mph is about 4k rpm. I can see the tach drop to 3k rpm for 1 sec or so and than it drops to 2k approx. It will stay in OD and does not slip. If I stay at 50mph or so and punch the gas, I can make it shift into 3rd gear and it will stay in 3rd as long as i give it 2/3 gas. Once i left off the gas it goes back to OD. Any theories why it wont hit 3rd on the way up but will easily drop from 4th down to 3rd whenever I want? I know, its time for a rebuild.
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