Toyota - Airconditioning :: 2009 Venza AC Working Intermittently
Oct 14, 2014
My 2009 Toyota Venza has had this issue off an on for about a year now, but it's becoming more frequent lately. When you start the car, the AC is often not working. It will be lit up, and on full power, but there is little, if any, air coming out of the vents. And then, if you get up to speed on the highway, or hit a bump, suddenly it's working. When it works, it works well, but when it doesn't, there's nothing you can do besides wait.
The mechanic looked at it today and couldn't diagnose it because it was working when I arrived and he wasn't able to duplicate the problem. They checked the blower motor and the connection and they were both fine. He said to come back when it's not working and try not to hit a bump on the way. I'm a little frustrated. What it could be?
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Sadly I own a 2010 Toyota Venza. For about 3 months(since May) I have been having problems with the air conditioner and front defroster. It works intermittently. Sometimes it will work for 3 days straight. Sometimes it will stop working while driving(it will blow hot air), but most of the time if I am driving and it works it will keep working for the whole ride. If I need to restart the car after a short stop it tends to fail, and then the next morning is a crap shoot.
It seems to work better when it is hot out, but not always. I had a front end collision in November, and had the condenser replaced and the system recharged. The defrost worked fine all through the winter. Since May I have had the system recharged 2 times. the second time with dye in it (no leak). I was told to change the condenser valve (150.00), and then I was told that was not the problem, and that I needed to change the compressor ($2,000.00 for the part alone). The compressor seems to work.
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I own a Toyota Venza 2013. I have lost control of my ac system. None of the controls work on the dash. The system works because the ac is running but you cant change any of the settings as well as turn it off. It seems that the panel has lost power.
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My AC stops working intermittently - I got a whole new compressor about 2 years ago, then it stopped working altogether about a month ago, they said they couldn't find any leak but filled it up w/ added dye. Now it blows cold for awhile on the highway, but will randomly blow warm air, and also blow warm air when I'm stopped at a light (Which is no good in Phoenix, AZ) I took it back in and they said they couldn't find a leak or anything wrong with it, that some hose was probably just freezing and then I would have to wait for it to thaw... but that doesn't explain why it never happened before... and it's not normal (clearly)... I just want a car that I don't have to roast in this summer!
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I have a 2009 Toyota Venza V6 AWD with 60,000 miles. A few months ago I had the front rotors and pads replaced by Sullivan Tire and Auto in Massachusetts. Since that time, the brakes have started causing a grinding or vibration. It ONLY occurs at very low speeds, especially in stop-and-go traffic on the highway and only after the car has warmed up with perhaps 20-30 minutes of driving with braking. You can feel it in the steering wheel and even in the seats. Sullivan has been AWESOME in trying to solve it, already replacing the rotors and pads once and having taken them apart two other times. They seem stumped and I can't find anything related on the internet. Several techs have taken it for a ride both with and without me and every one of them confirms the same strange grind/vibration/rub and under only the conditions noted above.
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A couple of months ago my Yaris was hit just behind the driver side door by a Ford F150, luckily traveling at a low speed. Other than body damage, my car seemed to be fine. After driving the car around for 2 weeks with the damage then taking it in for its 10 day repair, I brought home my wonderful little car. I live in Florida and even though it's winter, we had a rather warm day, just a couple days after bringing my car back home. I turned on the AC and ...nothing came out. So I tried it on higher settings and ...still nothing came out until I got to the highest blower setting. Suddenly it sounded like someone had turned a blender on inside my car but some air was making its way out of my blowers.
I called the shop that did my repairs and they said "well, you probably just blew a fuse. It's not accident related so we can't take care of it without charging you." My understanding was that I would not be able to get my blower to work at all if a fuse was blown, and my air certainly worked following the accident and prior to getting repairs done. If a fuse was blown, I'm willing to bet a lot of money that the shop was responsible. ...the fact that they also broke my glove compartment, got paint all over my seat, and made my car smell like a paint store also make me weary of using them again, but my insurance company swears by them. First of all, what is wrong with my car? Second of all, how do I fix it?
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A friend drove into work in her 2009 Venza. As she parked. the engine went up in flames. She's okay, but the vehicle isn't. This just happened today 4-15-2010 in front of scores people. Toyota says there isn't a problem.
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I am looking to purchase a Toyota Venza but can not find what model offers the sunroof. This is a make or break deal for me.
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My car (toyota venza) recently developed some buzzing noise, here is a video recording [URL] ..... I tried to google around and did not find anything.
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Just bought a great 2011 Venza with 75000 Texan highway miles. Now that the car is home, I've discovered that:
-- both of the remote fobs will lock and unlock the car doors,-- but neither of the two keys will lock or unlock the driver's door (the only one with a key slot, you know).
The key turns freely to right and left, with a slight, normal-feeling resistance. But nothing happens. No doors lock or unlock.
I've tried graphite in the key slot and working the key in and out. No luck.
So it seems 1) the keys are fine, as they start the car when put into the ignition.
And 2) the locks themselves also seem to be fine: both remotes lock and unlock the doors.
But 3) the driver's door can't be locked or unlocked using the key.
What worries me is that the car battery will die and I won't be able to unlock the car door in order to pop the hood open.
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I recently purchased a 2010 Toyota Venza. I unfortunately did not test drive it enough to realize how rough a ride it has. Thinking that something was wrong I brought it back and was told that it is normal and the Venza has a very hard ride. After more research I found out that it is a common complaint. The mechanic said that its large 20" tires, long wheel base and tight suspension all add up to a very hard ride. I saw previous discussions regarding this but no real or recent answers. Can anything be done to improve the ride? I was told that the 2013 model has a better ride so they must have changed something. Would something as simple as replacing the shocks with a different type? I love the car but hate the thought of driving it for the next 5 years the way it is. I would have purchased a Ford Edge or similar car if I realized how hard the ride is.
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2004 Chevrolet Tahoe that has the dual climate control features. Some days the A/C blows cold on one side and hot on the other with it set on the coldest setting. Another day it blows cold on both. Then you guessed it a few days later it goes back to blowing hot on one side and cold on the other.
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Yesterday morning, as I backed out of my short driveway, I felt a grinding and then felt a thunk on the passenger side when I applied the brakes. Why would my new Venza[~5401 miles] have this? The dealer didn't feel it during a drive and couldn't find anything wrong with the brakes on inspection. The dealership claimed it was due to rust. I don't buy it. Why would new brakes rust and why would Toyota make brakes that rust?
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After car has sat for an hour or more. The car will make a clunking sound, front end, when it reaches 10 mph...but will only do this when first start driving. Doesn't make clunk after it's moving. BUT, if it sits for an hour or more later, it'll make the same clunking sound when starting out. Not related to turning steering wheel or braking.year -2011 with 20,000miles
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April 2009, I bought a 2009 Toyota Venza which I totally love. About 2 weeks into ownership the battery went dead. I had it jump startd and all was well. In the time since I bought it, the battery has gone dead 5 times. Numerous trips to dealer and can't find anything. The final straw was when I was having car washed and the battery went dead. I had to call tow truck to drag me out of car wash an take car to dealer. This time they saidit was a bad battery. Now my dashlights are flashing dim to real bright and my TRAC light comes on so I can't put car into gear.
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I have driven my Venza V6 AWD for 1500 miles now. A lot of people commented the electric power steering feels numb.
When I am braking slowly (or lightly) to a stop because of a red light, I feel the steering wheel is kind of locked up and harder to steer compared to other Toyota I have driven (this is my fourth Toyota). When my steering wheel is not at exact 12:00 position (a few degrees off for example), I feel the tendency of the car move off from straight a head and I have to use a bit of force (more than the usual effortless power steering) to steer it straight. I am not sure if this is a normal behaviour or so called numbness of the Venza electric power steering or it is an alignment issue that needs to be corrected.
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TOYOTA 4Runner 2002. Have an annoying problem with climate control. Control working intermittently,. Cannot control desire temperature. I read there are very common symptoms for all 1999-2002 Toyota 4Runner LE.
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My AC is not working on any setting but defrost. Warm air blows out on the reg AC settings, but if I turn it to defrost, chilly air comes out.
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I recently bought a 2009 PT Cruiser which now has 38,000 miles on it. When I sit in idle, at a stop light or anywhere else, the car begins to go through a cycle where it is at about .75 RPMS (On the dial) for about 15econds, then all of a sudden I'll feel my car shake and the RPM's fall to just below .5 and then it shakes again and kicks up to 1 RPM before settling back down to .75. This cycle repeats until I move. Also, after the first "shake" the AC on my car goes out, spitting out warm air until I begin moving again. (Not good in TEXAS heat) This happens EVERY TIME the car goes through this cycle. WHAT IN THE WORLD IS THIS!!??
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I, like many, have had issues with my aux jack and decided to have it replaced with an aftermarket device. My aftermarket device plugs into the rear of the radio in place of the OEM aux harness. After removed the old OEM aux harness and installed the new one and put everything back together i had a problem.
The new AUX also comes with a USB slot as well and it all works properly, thats not the issue.
The issue is that my keyless remote has intermittently stopped working. I got out to lock the doors with the remote and nothing happened. I had no time to fiddle with it so i locked the doors via the keyhole and left it. The next time to went to my car, i tried to use the keyless and voila it worked! it locked AND unlocked. I was releived that it worked. Unfortunately once i drove and parked and tried to lock again - it didnt work . Needless to say it doesn't always work, ususally if i lock the doors with the key and come back more then 30 minutes, it unlocks keylessly.
The remote LED light turns on when i press any of the buttons so i know the battery is fine. I already opened the remote and confirmed the contacts are working properly. The only thing i haven't tried to do is reprogram the keyless remote (which i dont think is necessary).
Random symptoms - there are 3 circular dials (fan control, fan speed, temperature control) in the centre console. Originally ONLY the center dials LED lights would turn on. Now randomly the 3rd dials LED lights turn on again. I wanna start checking fuses but would like to know where to start.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with 106,000 miles on it. Sometimes when I turn on the air conditioner/heater fan, nothing happens. It doesn't blow any air at all, hot or cold out of the vents, and it makes no sound. Other times, when I turn it on, it works fine and it blows ice cold air out of the air conditioning vents like it's supposed to. I always try to remember to turn off the air conditioning when I leave my car before I turn off the engine, but it seems to make no difference as to whether the fan will work the next morning when I get in my car. What's wrong with the air conditioning/heater fan, and how much it will cost a mechanic to fix it?
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